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AUTHOR: 


HAMILTON,  FREDERICK 


TITLE: 


BORDIGHERA  AND  THE 
WESTERN  RIVIERA 

PLACE: 

LONDON 

DA  TE : 

1883 


Restrictions  on  Use: 


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PRESERVATION  DEPARTMENT 

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OPINIONS  OF  THE  PRESS 


\ 


Tin:   COXTEMPOEAIIY  JUJVIEW 

«  This    i^    ail    cxc'llciit    liiindljouk.  Tlie    iilea    and  execution  are 

])utli  liOiHi  it  u,.v ,..  such  full  iiitliniiatiuii  on  iiliiiost  eviTy  topic 

of  intiTcsi   io  will  rii.ihli'  tiK*  sojouriior    to    uiiderstaiid    and    eiijov 
tliu  countrv » 


\ 


THE  PALL  MALL  GAZETTE 

«  Dr'siilti'i-y  »  !>  tlic  last  word  to  l)e  n<<>d  in  connection  witli 
ihi<  v<liiiii<'.  uliicli  i>  |ia<*ked  tii^'litlv  from  cover  to  covit  with  useful 
infoni,        i.  all  closoly  lieariiii;'  uii  one  distinct  objt'ct.  There  is  no 

paddiim'  Ihji.- ^I.   liaiiiiltuii.   who  is  an    old    n'sid«'nt ,    and   tlie 

Kiii^-lish   hanker  at   IIordiLiiicra   is  a   lit:  L'X]>uiieiit    of   its  merits 

bciiiy-  (jualilic'l  to  say  in  tin-  most  transparent  hingua^i'  and  the 
most  los-'ical  and  iiL'tlnxiiivil  manner,  all  that  he  has  to  sav.  lie 
lias  also  lieen  fortunate  in  hndini-'  a  transLitor  who  renders  him 
into  our  more  misi\  idiom  with  vi/rv  little  loss  of  kviditv,  and 
uho  himS'df  coiitrihutcs  two  iiiterestiiii;'  chapters  to  th(<  book.  ?d. 
Hamilton    li'rapjdes    with.  branch    of  his  subject  —  climate, 

history.  Italian  law.  I'.uina  and  tioca  ,  artistic  features,  and  lan- 
^•uas»*e.    » 

'J HE  ACADEMY 

<<  The  Intok  is  ti-  !»<>  re-enmaud-Ml  for  its  varied  information  and 
inteit'siin^-  sketehc^    *>l    Imj die  days  to  all   who  are  going  to  Bor- 

dighera The  aver.i  -itnj-  will  tind   many  useful    suggestions, 

wliile  for  studt'iits  tli'iv  are  artieles  on  the  u'eologv,  th.'  fiuiia  and 
llora  of  tlie  district ,  the  local  diah'ct  and  a  valuable  chapter  of 
practical  information  (»ii  Italian  law  and  a<lmhiistration  as  they 
atlect  ho'eigii  r('si'lent,>....  » 

MOliXIXa  POST 

«  The    work    strikes  out    a    new  line:  it  is  instructive,  and 

the  various  inf  irmatioii  is  judiciously  arranged.  » 

BTJBLIh'  EXPPiESS 

«  This  Work   is  of  a  solid  ciiarafter. ......  and    will    certainly 

be  the  standard  work  for  all  thnse  who  desire  information  about 
Bordighera.  » 


Sanremo  1'^<S4  —  Tip.  Biaiicheri. 


BORDIGHERA 


AND 


THE  WESTERN  RIYIERA 


BY 


FREDERICK  FITZROY  HAMILTON, 

AUTHOR   OF   'THE   BOTANY  OF  THE   BIBEE,'   ETC.,   ETC. 


TKANSLATED  FROM  THE   FRENCH,   WITH   ADDITIONAL 

MATTER  AND  NOTES, 

BY 

ALFRED  C.  DOWSON. 


Est  ubi  plus  tepeant  hiemes,  ubi  gratior  aura 
leniat  et  rabiem  Canis  et  momenta  Leonis? 

Hoe. 


LONDON: 
EDWARD  STANFORD,  55,  CHARING  CROSS,  S.W. 

1883. 


[All  rights  reserveil.] 


Know  ye  the  land 

where  the  citron  and  olive  are  fairest  of  fruit 
and  the  voice  of  the  nightingale  never  is  mute  ? 
Where  the  tints  of  the  earth  and  the  hues  of  the  shy, 
in  colour  though  varied,  in  beauty  may  vie, 
and  the  imrple  of  ocean  is  deepest  in  dye  ? 

Fair  Italy  ! 
Thou  art  the  garden  of  the  world,  the  home 
of  all  Art  yields  and  Nature  can  decree ; 
even  in  thy  desert,  what  is  like  to  thee  ? 

Byron. 


%\, 


^ 


JL  /W  e3  Ju  "J  i 


PREFACE. 


-•o*- 


LONDON: 
,,uvr.  D  nr  uuxum  cu.wk  and  s«n^  r,TMTTi:r».  sttamford  strret 

AND  CHAltlM.   CHOW.1. 


Having  at  M.  Hamilton's  request  undertaken  an  English 
translation  of  his  work  on  Bordighera  and  Western 
Liguria,  and  being  thus  the  means  of  placing  another 
book  on  the  Kiviera  before  English  readers,  a  few  words 
as  to  its  aim  and  contents  may  not  be  out  of  place. 

The  various  works  which  have  appeared  within  the  last 
few  years,  having  reference  to  that  part  of  Southern 
Europe,  may  roughly  be  divided  into  two  classes : 

(1)  Those  almost  entirely  of  a  medical  character,  written 
by  Physicians  practising  at  one  or  other  of  the  many  winter 
resorts  on  the  coast,  and  treating  of  the  climate  and  the 
benefits  that  are  to  be  gained  from  it :  some  to  urge  the 
claims  of  the  comparatively  less  known  towns :  others  to 
give  greater  prominence  to  those  whose  advantages  are 
already  admitted. 

(2)  Books  which  are  of  the  nature  of  im])ressions  de 
voyage:  the  result  frequently  of  the  diary  or  notes  of  an 
invalid  who  has  passed  the  winter  wandering  from  one 
picturesque  town  to  another ;  or  perhaps,  remaining 
quietly  at  one  of  them,  has  made  that  especial  spot  and 
its  neidibourhood  the  basis  of  a  little  brochure  of 
descriptive  matter  with  all  the  local  traditions  thrown  in 
as"  padding." 

To  neither  of  these  divisions,  however,  can  the  present 


PREFACE. 


VU 


VI 


PREFACK. 


work   be   referred;    for   tl.ough  it  iu:.t^    very  fu  ly   o 
the  climate  of  Bordighera,  its  advantage^  as   a   healtl 
resort   and   those   features   in   whi.h  it  d.iTers  from    ^s 
neighbours,  and  also  contains  detailed  descriptions  of    he 

•  1     f  -  f  rn  t  in  its  c'uvir(»ns,  yet  these  are  but 
many  points  of  int(M-..4in  it>  uiMmiL,;y 

a  i,ortio..  of  its  content.  The  volume,  m  fact  is  an 
endeavour  to  place  before  the  visitor  to  that  portion  of 
the  Riviera  of  which  Bordighera  may  b.-  eousidered  as 
a  centre,  the  fullest  information  on  almost  every  topic 
«pon  wliich  he  couhl  possibly  desire  it.  For  it  contains, 
in  addition  to  the  subjects  to  which  I  have  just  refern.d, 
the  history  of  Liguria  from  the  earliest  days  down  to  the 
present  time,  the  story  of  the  foundation  of  Bord.ghera  and 
a  Ml  account  of  its  many  vicissitudes  during  the  past  four 
bundled  years,  with  sketches  of  the  fortunes  of  the  neigh- 
bourin.-  towns  (,f  Veutimiglia,  San  llemo,  Monaco,  &c. 

The^Fauna  and  Flora  of  the  district  haw  each  a  section 
dt'voted  to  them,  and  in  the  latter  the  botanist  will  find 
particulars  of  all  the  wild  flowers  he  is  likely  to  meet 
with  in  his  pedestrian  rambles.     The  geological  formation 
of  this  part  of  the  coast,  which  is  iilmost  unique  in  its 
character,  and  the  dialect,  pa.t  and    i^resent,  of  the  in- 
habitants, are  both  very  tlioroughly  treated ;  and  these,  with 
chapters  on  "  Italian   Law,"  and  -The  Artistic  Features 
of  Bordighera  and  its  Neighbourhood,"  give  a  variety  and 
comiileteness  to  the  wjvk  which  placo  it  in  a  category  of 
its  own,  and  fully  explain  my  wish  to  make  it  more  gene- 
rally known  through  the  medium  of  an  English  edition, 
which  may  perhaps  prove  a  convenience  to  those  who 
have   neither   the   time   nor   inclination   to   study   it  in 

Frencli. 

Several  important  additions  have  also  been  made  to 


the  present  edition ;  for  not  only  has  every  chapter  been 
carefully  revised  by  the  author  and  not  a  few  considerably 
amplified,  but  that  entitled  "  Practical  Hints  to  English 
Residents  in  Italy,"  has  been  specially  written  for  it  by 
M.  Hamilton.  The  two  chapters  on  "The  Riviera  in 
Olden  Days,"  and  "British  Operations  on  the  Riviera  in 
the  Eighteenth  Century  "  are  also  new. 

There  are  only  two  other  points  to  which  I  wish  here 
to  allude :  1st,  to  state  that  the  Latin  and  Italian  docu- 
ments, to  which  reference  is  made  in  Chapters  X.  and 
XL,  Part  II.  (where  translations  of  the  latter  are  to  be 
found),  are  given  in  exfenso  in  the  French  edition,  in 
which  they  may  be  studied  by  any  who  wish  to  do  so ; 
and  2ndly,  to  tender  niy  most  sincere  thanks  to  those 
friends  whose  kindly  and  valuable  help  has  enabled  me  to 
place  these  translations  before  my  readers,  and  who,  at  my 
request,  readily  undertook  a  task  entailing  both  labour  and 
patience,  owing  to  the  peculiar  and  technical  character  of 
the  Italian  in  which  they  are  expressed. 


Alfred  C.  Dowson. 


Arts  Club,  Hanover  Square, 

October,  1883. 


-af 

;e  11, 

ft 

15. 

» J 

15. 

i» 

47, 

II 

51. 

»t 

57. 

>» 

61. 

*l 

65, 

Ji 

67, 

n 

85, 

1 1 

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»• 

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118, 

1* 

162, 

•  t 

163, 

l» 

177. 

1 » 

227, 

»r 

265, 

i» 

289, 

325, 

liiu 


ERRATA. 

10,  Jor  "  position, '  read  "situation." 
17,  for  "  north-west,"  read  "north-east." 
19,  for  "  north-east,"  read  "  north-west." 
2,  for  "  tenasti,"  read  "  tentasti." 
28,  for  "  Mont,"  read  "  Mount." 
15,  for  "  east,"  read  "  west." 

31,  for  "at  Turbia,"  read  "  of  Augustus." 

4,  for  "  further  eastward,"  read  "  further  westward." 

4,  for  "  freestone  blocks,"  read  "  limestone  blocks." 
26,  for  "  Ventimilium,"  read  "  Vintimilium." 

13, /or  "to  which  this   sovereignty  continued,"   read  "from 
which  this  sovereignty  dated." 

32,  for  "at  pure,"  read  "  of  pure." 

7,  for  "  at  the  head,"  read  "  at  the  side." 

8.  for  "  upon  the  right,"  read  "  upon  the  left." 

5,  for  "  to  the  east,"  read  "  to  the  west." 

2,  for  "  which  shared,"  read  "  who  shared." 

8,  for  "  national  part,"  read  "national  party." 
21,  for  "  Oscian,"  read  "  Oscan." 
I'J,  /or  "  Cimbres,"  read  "Cimbri." 
31,  for  "douth-weat,"  read  "  south-east." 
21,  for  "  celeris,"  read  "  cderio." 

8,  for  "Spruce  Family,"  read  "Spurge  Family.' 


CONTENTS. 


PART  I. 

BORDIGHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

1840  TO  1880. 

PAGE 

How  first  brought  into  notice-" i)r.  Antonio^'-lts  character 
and  advantages  as  a  Winter  station 

CHAPTER  II. 

THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD   OF   BORDIGHERA. 

General  topography-The  Cape-The  Tower  of  Mostaccini--La 
Ruota-CoUa  di  Rodi-Montenero-Sasso-Borghetto-Valle-        ^ 

crosia — Nervia — Roia 

CHAPTER  III. 

DISTINCTIVE   CHARACTER   OF   THE    CLIMATE. 

Special    reasons    for    the    Mediterranean    climate-Exceptional 
position  of  Bordighera-Known  and  inferred  causes  of  the      ^^ 
climate 

CHAPTER  IV. 

LOCAL   SANITARY   CONDITIONS. 

Sanitary  position-Drainage  of  the  flat  ground-Death-rate  of       ^^ 
Bordighera  and  other  places 


(ONTENTS. 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTEll   V. 

THE   CLIMATE   MEDICALLY    CONSIDERED. 

Oi)iuiuii  of  a  resident  iihysician — A  few  hints  to  invalids    .. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

PilACTlCAL    HINTS   TO    EN<iLIS[I   ItESIDENTS   IN   ITALY. 

Number  of  foreiL^turs  in  Italy — Peculiar  difficulties  encountered 
by  the  English— (Mucral  state  of  legislation  and  administration 
— The  iirogn-ijs  of  twenty  years — Pul)lic  administration — 
ProiK-'rty — Mortgages — Taxation — Leases  and  tenants  —Wills 
and  successions — Banking  and  sundries 


PART  II. 
LOCAL    HISTORY 


CHAPTER  L 

PliEHlSTORIC   AND    !5Ai:i{AIlOUS   TIMES. 

First  attempts  at  colonisation— Origiu  ui  the  Ligurians— Found- 
ation of  Nice  and  Marseilles — Annexation  of  Liguria  by  the 
Romans — Hannibal  amongst  the  Alps— Z^^c  'Is  merveilles     .. 

CHAPTER  II. 

THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 

Administrative  organisation— The  Aurelian  Way  :  its  construction 
and  its  route— The  tropliy  of  Augustus— Building  of  Turbia— 
Geographical  frontier— RoiDau  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood     .. 

CHAPTER  IIL 

THE    HERMITAGE    AND   THE   CLOISTER. 

The  Lower  Empire— liarUiric  invasions— Origin  of  monasticism 
--The  hermits  and  tlie  first  monks— St.  Honorat  at  Planasia— 
The  Abbey  of  I.erins— Ampelius  at  Bordighcra— Ilormisdas 
and  Romulus  at  Matufa      


TAGR 

21 


25 


45 


56 


CHAPTER  IV. 


THE   FEUDAL   TIMES. 


PAGE 


68 


The  Genoese  league— The  Emperor  suzerains— Foundation  of 
fortified  villages— Matuta,  Nice,  Monaco,  and  Ventimiglia 
during  the  Middle  Ages      


CHAPTER  V. 

THE    "  COUNTY  "   OF   VENTIMIGLIA. 

Introduction  of  Christianity-Origin  of  the  "  County  "-Early 
wars  with  Genoa -Translation  of  the  body  of  St.  Ampelio 
—Civil  war— Ventimiglia  as  a  Commune— Fresh  wars  with 
Genoa:  first  siege  and  stratagems  of  .the  Genoese— Second 
siege  and  capitulation  of  tlie  town— Third  siege  and  destruc- 
tion of  the  town— The  "  Castrum  VmtuniUense ''—Yeniimiglm 
a  Genoese  possession 


CHAPTER  VI. 

SAN   REMO   IN    THE   MIDDLE    AGES. 

Depredations  of  the  Saracens-Rule  of  the  Archbishops  of  Genoa 
-Sale  to  two  Counts-Taken  by  D'Oria  and  sale  to  Genoa— 
Bomulus  hecomes  JRemus 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE   FIEF   OF   SEBORGA. 

Controversies  on  the  subject  of  cession  of  Seborga  to  the  Abbey  of 
Lerins-Act  settling  boundaries  with  Ventimiglia  m  1177— 
Other  possessions  of  Ldrins  in  the  neighbourhood-The  Abbey 
coins  money  at  Seborga-^Act  of  assignment  of  1666-Act  of 
confiscation  of  1686-Negociations  for  sale  with  Genoa-Fmal 
sale  to  the  House  of  Savoy 


77 


80 


88 


92 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

'IHi:    rillNCIPAIJlY    OF   MONACO. 

Monaco  after  the  Koman  epocb— The  Fraxinets—Yici8s\tude& 
until  1792— Annexation  to  France— The  Restoration  of  1814 
—  Republic  of  Mentone  and  Roqiiebrune— Annexation  of  18G0 
— The  gambling  tables        


i-A'ji: 


98 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE   FOUNDATION   OF   BORI»l<.lIKllA. 

State  of  Kurope  ami  Liguria  in  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century 
^Borghetto  San  Niccol(!» — Reasons  which  led  to  the  emigration 
— Cape  St.  Ampelio  and  the  Bonligue  which  has  disappeared 
— Retirement  of  tlio  sea  and  the  formation  to  which  it  has 
given  place — Deed  for  the  foundation  of  Ik)rdighenv  in  11 70 — 
Second  deed  in  1471 — Development  of  the  new  Commune — 
The  Knights  of  St.  John  at  La  Ruota— Great  commercial 
companies — Sale  ui  Ventimiglia  and  its  towns  to  the  Banco  di 
San  Giorgio — Return  to  the  Republic        


116 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE    1:MANCII'A!I"N    of   the   COMMUNES. 

Harassing  taxation  by  Ventiiuii^ua — Laws  on  fishing  and  petition 
of  the  fishermen — Monopoly  of  corn,  &c.,  and  petition  with 
regard  to  same-Petitions  as  to  .nnnitions  of  war-Systematic 
rejection  of  all  by  the  authorities  of  Ventimiglia — Cam}>orosso 
takes  the  initiative  in  the  separation — A'_!;it;iti(>n  at  Bordi'^hera 
— Conciliatory  policy  of  the  Republic's  Commissioner — Decree 
of  emancipation  and  its  accei>tance  of  tlie  Communes       ..      ..      129 

CHAFTEIt  XI. 

THE   Com,., AlK'N    oF    lllK    IhlllT   TOWNS. 

The  Eight  Communes  :  their  boundaries  and  poiailation — Act  of 
Federation  of  1686 — Penal  and  civil  codes — Development  of 
the  Confederation  and  vicissitudes  of  Ventimiglia  up  to  the 
French  occupation— Cliurch  building  at  Bordighera  — Con- 
version of  the  tower  into  a  belfry — Removal  of  the  drawbridges 
and  opening  of  new  g.ites I3'j 


CONTENTS. 


Xlll 


PAGli 


149 


CHAPTER  XIL 

THE   FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 

Annexation  of  the  "  County  "  of  Nice— Revolution  at  Genoa  in 
1797  and  the  Provisional  Government— Enthusiasm  of  the 
populace— The  Ligurian  Republic — The  First  Empire — Annex- 
ation of  Liguria  and  division  into  French  departments— The 
Restoration  of  1814  and  the  incorporation  of  Liguria  into  the 
Kingdom  of  Sardinia 

CHAPTER  XIIL 

LIGIKIA    IN   THE    I'llESENT    DAY. 

The  Restoration  of  1814— Phases  of  the  Italian  Revolution  up  to 
the  year  1843 — The  Sardinian  Constitution— Proclamation  of 
the  Kingdom  of  Italy  in  1861— Annexation  of  Nice  to  France 
— Journeys  of  Sovereigns  through  Liguria— Earthquakes  in 
1831__Opening  of  the  Cornice  Road — Resolutions  as  to  the 
"sandy  lands"      160 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

LEGISLATIVE    UNIFICATION. 

Necessity  for  unification— Old  Italian  codes — Preparation  and 
promulgation  of  the  Civil  Code  in  1865— Other  Codes  and  laws 

Principal  characteristics  of  the  Penal  Code,  the  Constitution 

and  the  Civil  Code       169 

CHAPTER  XV. 

DIALECT. 

Formation  of  the  ancient  dialects  of  Italy  and  the  Latin  language 
—Influence  of  the  Barbarian  immigrants— The  Romance 
language  in  the  time  of  Charlemagne — Dialects  of  o'i  and  oc 
—Formation  of  the  Italian  language— Comparison  with  French 
Present  dialects  of  Italy— Modern  patois  of  Nice  and  Genoa 

CHAPTER  XVI. 


176 


THE   RIVIERA    IN    OLDEN    DAYS. 

By  Alfred  C.  Dowson. 
Travelling  in  the  Middle  Ages— DifiSculties  of  coast  path— Note- 
worthy travellers  ;  Dante— St.  Catherine  of  Siena— Lady 
Blessington's  impressions  of  Liguria— Opening  of  the  Cornice 
Road  in  1828— Mules  superseded  by  diligence  and  post-chaise 
— Extract  from  '  Miss  Angel '     19^ 


TAOF. 


XIV  CONTENTS. 

ClIAFTEK  XVII. 

BRITISH   OrKRATIONS   ON    TIIK    UlVlKItA    IX    TIIK    ElGHTEENTir 

CENTURY. 

By  Alfred  C.  Dowson. 
Origin  of  the  Spanish  war  of  1737--Captain  Jenkins  and  his  ear 
— Admiral  Matthews  appointed  to  the  commaml  of  British  fleet 
—Complaints  as  to  the  inefticiency  of  shijis— Captures  French 
troops—Fortifies  Tiirbia  and  Villa  Franca— Spanish  agents 
collecting  supplies  of  grain,  &c.,  at  Vmtimiglia— Letters  giving 
particulars  of  same— Order  to  Captain  Martin  to  destroy  them 
—What  actually  took  place— Tobias  Smollett  and  the  Young 
Pretender      205 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

CHRONOLOGICAL   TABLE   OF   THE    HISTORY    OF    LIGURIA 


i^2(; 


X  jcxliX      111. 

THE    CLIMATE    OF    BORDIGHEKA 
SCIENTIFICALLY  CONSIDERED. 


«t 


CHAPTER  I. 

nok'hi   ani»  soirni, 


Imix)rtance  of  a  scientific  .study  of  climates— Tlie  suh-tropical 
zone  of  Europe— Principal  meteorological  differences  between 
the  Northern  and  Southern  portions  of  the  Continent— System 
to  be  followed  in  the  comparison  of  climate 238 

CHAPTER  II. 

TKAirEIlATURK. 

Observations  at  Bordighera  since  1876-  Comparison  with  Nice, 
Cannes,  and  Mentone— Result  justified  by  the  configuration  of 
the  coast-Summer  temperature-Effect  of  nocturnal  radiation    241 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


CHAPTER  III. 


RAINFALL. 


PACK 


Difference  of  rainfall  in  the  same  district— Conclusion  suggested 
by  the  position  of  Bordighera — Statistics  of  rainfall — Compari- 
sons with  other  towns — Influence  of  the  various  winds  on  rain- 
fall— Character  of  rains— The  Barometer 248 

CHAPTER  IV. 

WINDS. 

The  invalid's  greatest  enemy — Average  number  of  days  of  violent 
wind — The  mistral — The  true  levante  and  the  Genoese 
tramontana — The  scirocco — The  Uheccio — The  sea  breeze — 
Land  winds 252 

CHAPTER    V. 

THE    ATMOSPHERE. 

The  southern  sun— Effect  of  light  upon  the  respiration  of  animal 
and  vegetable  life— Mean  of  cloudless  and  cloudy  days — 
Hygrometrical  observations — Views  of  Corsica — The  parhelion 
of  1882 259 


PART  IV. 
NATURAL   HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  I. 


LOCAL     GEOLOGY. 


Geological  history  of  Liguria- The  Nummulitic  Sea — Formation 
of  deltas — Fossiliferous  clays — Levels  of  the  various  upheavals 
— Pliocene  fossils — Stratification  of  the  plain  of  Bordighera — 
Porosity  of  the  soil — Mineral  springs        271 


X¥l 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  1 1. 


THE    FAUNA    OF   LIGURIA. 


PAGE 


Poverty  of  the  South  as  regards  animal  life— Mammalia — Birds 
of  passage — Feathered  game — Reptiles  and  batracbians,  Medi- 
terranean fish— Insects:  the  scorpion,  the  fire-fly,  the  cigale — 
Lepidoptera 280 

CHAPTER  III, 

THE   FLORA    OF   LIGUIUA. 

Difference  between  the  Flora  of  Northern  and  Southern  Europe 
— Richness  of  the  Ligurian  Flora — Depredations  by  collec- 
tors and  visitors — Extinct  species — Gardening  in  Ligiiria — 
Annotated  catalogue  of  interesting  plants         290 


ARTISTIC  FEATURES  OF  BORDIGHERA. 

By  M.  Charles  Garnier,  Arcliitect. 


I. — TO   ARTISTS         336 

II. — THE   TOWER   OF   MOSTACCINI 338 

III. — siG.  Moreno's  garden 343 

IV. — the  cape  of   ST.    AMPELIO       344. 

V. — THE   OLD  TOWN  347 

VI.— THE   VILLA   CHARLES  GARNIER  350 

VIL— THE   SASSO   TORRENT  350 

VIIT. — THE   TORRENT   OF   CEPHISUS 356 

IX.— THE   WELL  OF  LA   RUOTA  360 


BOEDIGHEEA 


AND   THE 


WESTERN  RIVIERA, 


PART  I. 

BORDIGHEEA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


-•o*- 


CHAPTER   I. 

1840  TO  1880. 

How  first  brought  into  notice — ^^ Dr.   Antonio'* — Its  character  and 

advantages  as  a  "Winter  station. 

Forty  years  ago  the  traveller  who  passed  over  the  cele- 
brated Cornice  Road,  either  in  post-chaise  or  by  diligence, 
saw  nothing  in  Bordighera  but  a  place  somewhat  finely 
situated.  The  village  which  commanded  the  Cape  was 
picturesque,  no  doubt,  as  were  all  along  the  Kiviera,  but  it 
did  not  possess  sufficient  attractions  to  tempt  him  to  re- 
main the  night  there.  Indeed,  the  Guide  Books,  even  the 
classic  Murray,  found  nothing  to  point  out  in  Bordighera 
except  some  beautiful  palm  plantations. 

But  as  time  passed  on,  and  the  regular  winter  stations 
along  the  Eiviera,  first  Nice  and  then  Mentone  and  San 
Kemo,  increased  in  size  and  became  too  expensive  and  too 


2        BOBDIOHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 

crowded  to  suit  those  who  sought  quietness  and  a  simple 
country  life,  some  English,  the  pioneers  of  civilisation 
all  over  the  world,  began  to  speak  of  Bordighera  as  one  of 
the  wintering  places  of  the  future. 

To  some,  indeed,  the  name  of  the  town  was  already 
known.  A  pen  of  tlie  first  order,  that  of  the  Patriot  of 
Taggia — who  delighted,  when  an  exile,  to  celebrate  in  the 
language  of  that  country  where  he  had  again  found  liberty 
and  kindness,  those  places  where  he  had  passed  his  youth — 
brought  the  name  of  Bordighera  into  prominence  by 
placing  there  tlie  scene  of  one  of  the  most  passionate  and 
touching  stories  to  be  found  in  Euglisli  literature. 

The  events  are  supposed  to  take  place  in  1840,  and  in 
the  spring-tiiue.  A  rich  and  elderly  English  baronet, 
proud  and  over-bearing,  with  the  strong  prejudices  of 
an  ultra-Tory — a  type,  in  a  word,  of  the  aristocrat  of 
tlie  old  school,  now  fast  disappearing — has  passed  the 
winter  in  Rome  for  the  benefit  of  the  health  of  bis  only 
daughter,  a  beautiful  and  charming  girl  about  twenty  years 
of  age. 

Returning  to  England  at  the  beginning  of  April  by  way 
of  the  Riviera,  tlie  horses  take  fright  and  overturn  the 
carriage  at  the  bottom  of  the  slope  which  terminates  in 
the  plain  of  Arziglia  ;  that  is  to  say,  in  front  of  the  village 
of  Bordighera,  and  about  200  yards  from  the  iirst  in- 
habited houses— just  at  the  point,  in  fact,  where  one  now 
sees  the  entrance  of  the  second  tunnel  from  the  railway 
station. 

At  the  moment  of  the  accident  the  village  doctor,  a 
young  Sicilian— his  nationality  no  doubt  suggested  by  the 
number  of  Neapolitan  and  Sicilian  refugees  in  the  neio-h- 
bourhood  after  the  events  of  1818-49,  many  of  whom 


1840  TO  1880. 


3 


settled  there— is  following  the  carriage  in  his  calessino, 
and  hastens  forward  to  attend  to  the  young  lady,  who,  he 
at  once  discovers,  has  broken  her  leg.  Dr.  Antonio  orders 
the  fair  sufferer  to  be  carried  to  the  nearest  house,  the 
Osteria  del  Mattone,  a  village  auherge  kept  by  an  old 
woman  and  her  daughter,  and  situated  at  the  turning  of 
the  road  which  mounts  to  the  village  of  Bordighera, 
almost  at  the  same  spot  where  is  now  the  modern  villa  of 
the  same  name. 

The  installation  of  a  family  accustomed  to  the  greatest 
luxury  takes  place,  for  good  or  evil,  in  this  tumble-down 
dwelling,  and  is  followed  by  sundry  incidents,  amongst 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  violent  discussions  which 
take  place  between  the  old  and  aristocratic  baronet  and 
the  young  and  liberal  doctor,  whilst  of  even  greater 
importance  is  the  fact  that  with  the  latter  the  invalid 
unconsciously  falls  in  love. 

Gradually  her  father  softens,  and  friendly  relations 
are  established  between  the  travellers  and  the  people  of 
the  country ;  and  later  on,  as  his  daughter  gains  strength, 
excursions  are  made  in  the  neighbourhood,  which  allow 
the  author  to  describe  Bordighera,  its  characteristics, 
and  its  peasantry,  with  an  ability  only  equalled  by  its 
grace. 

But  at  length  the  moment  arrives  when  the  recovery  is 
complete,  and  they  must  depart ;  but  at  this  point  that 
portion  of  the  book  ends  which  treats  of  Bordighera,  and  I 
will  not,  by  attempting  an  analysis  of  the  story,  spoil  the 
interest  of  those  who  have  not  yet  read  this  delightful 
book,  but  merely  recommend  them  to  make  acquaintance 
with  it  at  the  first  opportunity. 

But  in  placing  the  scene  of  his  romance  at  Bordighera 

B  2 


4  BORDIGHERA   AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 

tlie  Chevalipr  Euffini  has  obeyed  a  sentiment  more  pro- 
found tlian  that  which  causes  an  author  to  phice  the 
incidents  of  his  story  at  a  spot  which  he  knows  well  and 
is  able  to  describe  faithfully.  Our  author  loved  this  place 
already,  and  wished  to  make  it  better  known  to  strangers. 
He  tells  us  this  liimself  in  a  letter  addressed  to  one  of  our 
citizens,  and  from  which  we  g^ixe  an  extract :— 

"...  Xessuno  potra  contrnstjinui  il  diritto  di  rssfre  annoverato  fra 
i  pill  antichi  ammiratori  di  B(.rdi-hera.  Ella  certo  non  ignora  clie 
Bordighera  fii,  posso  dire,  la  mia  |>rima  fiamnia ;  non  avevo  ancora 
UE  pdo  al  niento,  qiiando  la  vidi  jier  la  prima  volta.  S'andava 
collo  zi.)  canonico,  a  vedere  non  so  che  o  clii  a  Ventimiglia,  e  quella 
gl<>rir.sa  altura,  coronata  di  palme,  colpi  siflattamente  la  iiiia  infantile 
fantasia  che  ne  sognai  lungo  pezzo  la  notte.  La  rividi  molti  e  molti 
anni  doi)0,  nel  1848,  quando  coUa  barba  gih  grigia,  mi  riconducevo  in 
patria  per  la  via  di  Nizza.  '  La  rividi  piu  l)ella  e  non  meno  altera,'  e 
81  fu  allora  cbe  rcso  ardito  dagli  anni,  le  indirizzai  quella  dichiarazione 
in  regola,  clie  feci  poco  stante  di  pubblica  ragione."  * 

The  following  is  an  English  translation  of  the  above  :— 

•*.  .  .  No  one,  I  am  sure,  will  dispute  with  me  the  right  of  being 

counted  among  the  oldest  admirers  of  l>or.lighera.     You  are  doubtless 

not  i'^norant  that  Bordighera  was,  so  to  speak,  my  first  flame;  I  had 

not  a  single  hair  uiion  my  chin  wlien  I  saw  it  for  the  first  time.    I 

was  on  my  way  to  Ventimiglia  with  an  uncle,  a  canon,  to  see  some  one 

or  something  (I  have  forgotten  who  or  what)  at  that  town,  and  that 

glorious  lieight,  crowned  with  palm  trees,  made  a  profound  impression 

upon  my  childish  imagination  :  I  remember  dreaming  of  it  great  part 

of  the  night.     I  beheld  it  a^^ain,  many  and  muiiy  a  year  afterwards, 

when  in  1848,  with  my  heiml  already  grey,  I  returned  to  this  country 

by  way  of  Nice.    'I  saw  her  again  as  fair  but   h<jt  less  proud,*  and 

being  emboldened  by  years,  made  a  formal  avowal  of  my  sentiments, 

which  was  shortly  afterwards  confirmed  by  a  public  declaration." 

Tlie  publication  of  *  Dr.  Antonio '  was  then  the  first  step 
towards  making  the  advantages  of  the  position  and  climate 

♦  See  the  Via  Aurelin,  Feb.  20,  1870. 


i 


M 

,/ 
i 


1840  TO  1880.  5 

of  Bordighera  known  to  strangers.  A  few  years  later  the 
Hotel  d'Angleterre  opened  its  doors  to  travellers,  and  from 
tliat  day  the  little  foreign  colony  has  never  ceased,  year 
by  year,  to  increase,  and  the  tourist  who  alights  to-day  at 
the  handsome  building  which  forms  Bordighera  Station, 
knowing  nothing  of  the  place  but  the  description  given  in 
'  Dr.  Antonio,'  will  certainly  be  astonished  by  the  changes 
he  notices  on  every  side.  The  thirty  years  which  have 
passed  have  indeed  left  their  mark  upon  it. 

However,  Bordighera  has  not  yet  become  a  town,  and 
we  should  indeed  be  misleading  a  stranger  who  proposed 
coming  here,  if  we  allowed  him  to  think  he  would  arrive 
at  a  fashionable  place  like  Nice  or  San  Eemo.  Neither  is 
it  organised  as  a  winter  resort,  with  band,  circle,  casino, 
&c.,  as  are  so  many  of  our  summer  haunts  in  Switzerland 
and  Germany. 

It  is  still  a  village,  a  commune  of  which  the  population, 
according  to  the  official  census,  has  not  reached  the  total 
of  3000  inhabitants.  These,  engrossed  in  agriculture  and 
fishing,  and  accustomed  to  a  solitary  and  simple  life,  have 
but  lately  realised  the  advantages  which  nature  has 
showered  upon  their  country  and  the  brilliant  future 
which  is  reserved  for  it. 

After  the  Chevalier  Euffini  came  those  to  whom  he 
had  made  it  known.  Wandering  about  Europe  from 
north  to  south,  from  east  to  west,  are  a  class  of  travellers 
always  on  the  look-out  for,  and  delighted  to  call  atten- 
tion to,  those  places  which,  from  their  climate,  situation, 
and  geographical  position,  are  suitable  for  winter  re- 
sorts; and  these  could  not  fail  to  be  struck  in  passing 
by  our  Cape,  from  which  may  be  seen  a  view  unique 
in  the  Riviera;    by  the  palm  plantations,  which   make 


w 


6 


BORDIGHEIIA   AS   A   WINTER   RESORT. 


this  spot  look  like  a  piece  of  the  East  transported 
into  Europe;  by  the  superb  sites  —  tempting  to  a 
builder's  eye — offered  by  the  lower  ranges  of  the  hills 
and  the  extensive  plain  stretching  to  the  western  limit  of 
the  commune. 

And  this,  indeed,  is  precisely  what  has  occurred. 

Little  by  little  the  name  of  Bordighera  spread  over 
Europe,  and  travellers  arranged  their  plans  so  as  to  visit 
it.  Hotels  have  been  opened,  some  families  liave  settled 
here — some  indeed  have  purchased  land  and  built  villas, 
and  the  municipul  administration  has  at  last  begun  to 
understand  that  the  future  prosperity  of  Bordighera  is  to 
be  found  in  the  development  of  its  winter  colony. 

After  long  discussion,  and  hesitation  even  more  pro- 
longed than  is  usual  in  such  cases,  the  municipal  council 
at  length  started  fairly  forward  in  the  direction  which 
destiny  had  marked  out  fur  it.  A  loan  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  thousand  francs  was  arranged,  and  three  broad 
roads,  forming  together  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half  of  well- 
made  carriage  road,  has  been  opened.  **  It  is  but  a  com- 
mencement," you  will  say ;  and  this  is  true,  but  it  is  no 
slight  thing  to  have  advanced  even  so  far.  In  the 
development  of  towns,  the  first  and  most  important  func- 
tion which  rests  upon  those  in  authority  is  to  open  good 
means  of  communication :  the  rest  follows  as  a  matter  of 
course,  and  may  safely  be  left  to  private  speculation.  To- 
day Bordighera  possesses  two  large  hotels,  several  smaller 
ones,  and  many  pensions;  a  fair  number  of  shops,  amply 
meeting  the  wants  of  visitors ;  an  English  church,  where 
service  is  held  regularly  from  the  middle  of  October  to 
the  middle  of  May ;  two  chemists,  a  telegraph  office,  a 
railway  station,  where  all  trains  stop  without  exception; 


f 


1840  TO  1880.  7 

and  between  forty  and  fifty  villas  and  apartments, 
especially  built  and  furnished  for  letting  to  the  winter 
visitors. 

Here  then  are  the  elements  for  a  foreign  colony,  which 
there  is  no  doubt  will  rapidly  develop.  I  can  but  repeat, 
however,  that  a  stranger  coming  to  Bordighera,  and  expect- 
ing to  find  it  a  fashionable  wintering  jplace,  will  be  greatly 
disappointed. 

At  Nice,  at  San  Remo,  and  even  at  Mentone,  beyond 
the  advantages  of  a  southern  climate,  one  finds  the  whole 
retinue  of  fashionable  life:  here  the  visitor  meets  with 
nothing  but  a  perfect  climate  and  the  loveliest  scenery ; 
all  else  is  conspicuous  by  its  absence ! 

The  advantages  then  of  Bordighera  are  these :  a  winter 
residence,  not  only  sunny  and  sheltered,  but  free  from  the 
noise  and  turmoil  of  a  town,  and  where  nature  brings  her 
choicest  treasures  to  your  very  door.  These  characteristics 
new  towns  lose,  alas  !  only  too  quickly ;  let  us  hope  that 
at  least  Bordighera  will  keep  them  for  as  long  a  time  as 
possible. 

No  doubt  it  is  to  be  desired  that  the  foreign  colony 
should  increase,  and  that  speculation  should  develop  in 
every  possible  manner  our  ''million  square  yards  of 
admirable  building  land";  but  in  all  its  developments 
Bordighera  will  be  wise  to  preserve  before  everything  its 
character  as  a  quiet  and  rural  wintering  resort,  where, 
under  a  southern  sun,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  tropical 
vegetation,  far  from  the  noisy  throng  and  the  buzz  of 
mundane  pleasures,  worn-out  humanity  can  find  rest,  and 
the  sick  restoration  to  health.  As  long  as  our  little 
commune  preserves  these  features,  its  success  is  certain, 
for  it  will  take  the  first  rank  amongst  all  places  of  its 


8 


BORDIGHERA   AS  A   WINTER  RESOKT. 


kind :  it  will  more  and  more  become  a  rendezvous  of  the 
class  of  traveller  I  have  described-;  but  on  the  day  that  it 
takes  another  course,  Bordighera  must  resign  itself  to 
follow  sadly  in  the  wake  of  its  better-known  rivals. 

Looking  at  it  from  this  point  of  view,  one  might  counsel 
Bordighera  to  act  as  did  the  inhabitants  of  a  certain  large 
village  in  another  part  of  the  world,  whose  designation 
they  were  advised  to  change  into  that  of  town :  *'  Nay," 
said  they,  "  we  would  rather  be  the  first  of  villages  than 
the  last  of  towns." 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD   OF   BOKDIGHERA. 

General   topograpliy  — The    Cai)e— The    'J'owor    of    MostacciDi  — La 

Fai* .ta— Colla   di  Rodi— Montcneru— SiLs^o— iiorghetto— Vallecrosia 
— Nervia— Ruia. 

The  chain  of  the  Blaritime  Alps,  which  in  this  part  is 
mingled  with  the  Apcn nines,  nins  parallel  to  the  coast  at 
a  distance  of  about  37  miles  Irom  it.  Its  highest  peaks  in 
our  neighbourhood  do  not  attain  a  greater  elevation  than 
9800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ]\re(literranean.  Tlie 
area  situated  between  this  raii,-<'  and  tlie  coast  is  occiii)ied 
by  a  confused  mass  of  secondary  hills,  as  a  rule  very 
stony,  with  a  deplorable  absence  of  trees  and  extremely 
broken  up. 

This  area  is  furrowed  by  a  series  of  valleys  ruiuiin 
north  and  south,  and  which  graanally  diuvinish  in  in" 
portanre  iVuni  the  French  frontier  to  Bordighera.     The 
Boia,  which  empties  itself  into  the  ..u   at  Yentimi.^liu, 


the  neighbourhood. 


9 


has  its  source  in  the  central  chain  of  the  Alps,  owing  its 
waters  to  the  perpetual  snow  of  the  Col  di  Tenda.  The 
Nervia,  which  has  its  mouth  at  the  western  extremity  of 
the  great  plain  of  Bordighera,  may  be  followed  north  as 
far  almost  as  Dolceacqua,  where  it  turns  to  the  east  and 
is  lost  to  north  of  this  neighbourhood.  The  torrents  of 
those  valleys  which  follow,  as  we  go  from  west  to  east 
(those  of  Vallecrosia,  Borghetto  and  Sasso),  only  receive 
the  pluvial  waters  coming  from  the  southern  slope  of  the 
secondary  chain  of  mountains  formed  by  the  upper  valley 
of  the  Nervia. 

The  almost  isolated  range  which  commences  at  the 
Cape  of  Bordighera  and  separates  the  Borgo  Marina  from 
the  valley  of  Sasso,  reaches  a  height  of  from  800  to 
1000  feet  for  the  distance  of  three-quarters  of  a  mile, 
up  to  the  Tower  of  Mostaccini,  which  protects  the  entrance 
of  the  Borghetto  valley.  From  this  point  it  is  connected 
with  the  shoulder  of  Montenero  by  a  ridge  which  runs 
north  and  south  between  the  valley  of  Borghetto  and  the 
upper  extremity  of  that  of  Sasso.  The  Strada  Bomana 
runs  along  the  foot  of  the  chain  on  the  south,  the  path  of 
the  aqueduct  being  on  the  opposite  side  ;  near  the  top  is 
found  the  communal  road  to  Sasso  and  that  which  is  named 
after  the  Fontana  Vecchii,  which  follows  almost  a  straight 
line  from  the  old  village  of  Bordighera  to  the  Tower  of 
Mostaccini.  A  number  of  little  paths,  crossing  the  olive 
plantations,  bind  these  four  roads  together  in  all  direc- 
tions, and  enable  the  visitor  to  vary  his  walks  admjinitum. 
Indeed  it  is  a  fact,  that  there  are  few  winter  stations 
which  offer  to  the  visitor  a  wider  or  more  varied  field  for 
excursions  than  our  neighbourhood;  only,  to  be  able 
thoroughly  to  enjoy  a  sojourn  at  Bordighera,  one  must  be 


^ 


10 


BORDIOHEEA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


THE  NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


11 


a  lover  of  wild  flowers,  of  silent  woods,  of  nigged  moun- 
tains, and  be  satisfied  witli  these  and  the  vast  horizon  of 
a  country  which  has  yet  received  no  embellishment  from 
the  hand  of  man.  Those  then  who  desire  to  find  in  their 
winter  home  sometliiiig  which  may  remind  them  of  Hyde 
Park  or  the  Bois  de  Boulogne  had  better  not  stop  here, 
for  we  possess  nothing  which  even  in  the  most  remote 
degree  resembles  the  Prom  h  des  Anglais  of  Nice  or  the 
Viale  del  Colli  of  Florence. 

However,  as  these  pages  are  intended  to  be  read  at 
Bordighera,  it  is  useless  to  give  a  description  of  a  country 
and  scenery  which  the  reader  will  already  have  under 
his  eyes :  I  will  therefore  pass  on  at  once  to  indicate 
the  principal  excursions  which  can  be  made  in  the 
district. 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  make  acquaintance  with 
the  natural  beauties  of  the  place,  and  to  acquire  a  know- 
ledge of  its  toi)ography,  ought  first  of  all  to  betake  liimself 
to  the  plateau  of  the  Cape  of  St.  Ampelio.  From  this 
superb  point  of  view,  the  eye  can  take  in  the  Italian  coast 
as  far  as  San  Eemo  and  the  French  almost  to  Toulon ;  yet 
however  beautiful  this  may  strike  him,  it  is  still  inferior 
to  that  from  the  point  I  suggest  as  the  first  tvalk  which 
the  stranger  should  take  on  his  arrival,  viz  : 

The  Tmeer  of  Mostaeeinl-ThiB  excursion  does  not  take 
an  hour  and  a  half,  both  going  and  returning.  To  reach 
the  Tower,  the  pedestrian  follows  the  Strada  Momana 
imtd  close  to  Pozzoforte,  from  whence  he  must  turn  to  the 
right  by  the  first  path  which  presents  itself.  He  can 
however,  equally  well  gain  the  summit  of  the  hill,  thouc^h 
It  IS  somewhat  a  longer  route,  by  climbing  the  paUi 
behmd  the  bastions  of  the  old  town,  taking  the  mule  track 


by  the  Fontana  Vecchia  and  following  it  straight  onwards 
till  it  brings  him  to  his  destination.  The  tower  is  pro- 
bably of  lioman  origin  ;  at  any  rate,  it  served  as  an  avisium 
(or  watch-tower)  in  the  middle  ages.  It  is  in  a  perfect  state 
of  preservation,  but  does  not  offer  any  other  point  of  interest 
to  the  tourist,  than  that  from  it  is  obtained  a  view  un- 
rivalled along  the  Eiviera. 

La  Madonna  della  Ruota  is  a  hamlet  situated  on  the 
high  road,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  eastward  of 
Bordighera.  Here  is  a  sanctuary  founded  by  the  knights 
of  Khodes,  from  whom  it  derives  its  name,  Kuota.  The 
church  contains  an  Annunciation  in  marble,  which  has  a 
certain  artistic  value.  Sulphurous  waters  gush  forth  here 
in  two  places :  one  at  the  side  of  Montenero,  behind  the 
church ;  the  other  below,  almost  upon  the  beach  which  is 
called  Giunchetto. 

ColJa  di  Bodi  is  a  large  village  admirably  situated  on 
the  top  of  Capo  Nero,  which  separates  the  bay  of  San  Eemo 
from  that  of  Ospedaletti,  a  little  hamlet  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  further  on  than  Euota,  and  which  took  its  name 
from  a  hospital  (now  entirely  disappeared),  which  also  was 
erected  by  the  knights  of  Ehodes,  or,  as  they  are  perhaps 
better  known  to  us,  the  knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem 
or  of  Malta. 

The  visitor  to  Colla  will  find  two  things  which  he  would 
hardly  expect  to  come  across  in  such  a  very  out-of-the-way 
place:  viz.  a  library  of  0000  volumes  and  a  gallery  of 
pictures,  amongst  which  are  some  works  of  great  artistic 
merit.  Both  of  these  are  legacies  to  his  native  town  by 
Professor  S.  P.  Eambaldi,  a  distinguished  professor,  who 
died  in  Tuscany  in  1865. 

Montenero  is  the   name  of  an  extensive   wood,  over- 


12 


BORDIGHERA   AS   A   WINTER   RESORT. 


hanging  the  valley  of  Sasso  and  the  bay  of  Euota,  and 
exactly  over  the  latter  are  some  gaping  apertures,  which 
go  by  the  name  of  ciotti  fumosi,  or  "  smoking  holes,"  owing 
to  the  popular  tradition,  which  states  tliat  formerly  smoke 
may  luive  been  seen  issuing  from  them. 

Montenero  joins  to  the  north-east  Caggio,  which  in 
its  turn  serves  as  a  shoulder  to  the  gigantic  Bignone,  a 
striking  mountain  clothed  with  turf  to  its  very  sumni'it, 
which  rises  to  the  lieight  of  nearly  3300  feet,  and  from' 
wlu'ch  may  be  obtained  one  of  the  most  striking  views  in 
the  Eiviera.  These  woods,  viz.  those  both  of  Montenero 
and  Caggio,  are  admirable  places  for  long  pedestrian 
excursions  and  pic-nics :  the  flora  is  very  rich,  and  gently 
sloping  paths  wander  in  every  direction. 

Sasso  is  a  little  village  situated  at  the  head  of  the  valley 
of  the  same  name :  it  offers  few  points  of  interest  to  the 
visitor  except  its  unusual  origin,  which  is  that  of  a  stronrr 
castle  turned  into  a  village.  ^ 

The  Borghetto  Valleij,  the  first  to  the  west  of  Bordi-hera 
contains  the  villages  of  Borghetto,  Vallebuoiia,  and  Se-' 
borga,  which  latter  occupies  its  most  distant  point.  These 
villages  are  all  extremely  i)icturesque  and  well  worth  a 
visit ;  a^  fur  as  Vallebuona  there  is  a  good  carriage  road. 

Ike  Valkcrosia  Valleij  only  possesses  a  carria-e  road 
as  far  as  the  village  of  the  same  name:  if  the  traveller 
goes  either  by  carriage  or  on  horseback,  he  will  pass  at 
the  pomt  where  this  road  turns  off  from  the  high  road  a 
very  interesting  establishment~a  home  or  asylum  with  a 
school  attached,  where  the  boys  are  taught  a  trade :  the 
estabhshment  was  founded  by  an  English  lady  for  the 
orphans  of  poor  protestants  of  both  sexes,  who  are  received 
irom  all  parts  of  Italy.     This  valley,  wider  and  colder 


THE   NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


13' 


than  the  previous  one,  also  contains  three  villages,  viz. 
Vallecrosia,  San  Biagio,  and  Soldano. 

The  broad  valley  of  the  Nervia  contains  also  several 
villages;  Camporosso,  Dolceacqua  (remarkable  for  its 
excellent  wines  and  its  castle,  dating  from  the  middle 
ages),  and  Pigna,  celebrated  for  its  beautiful  forest  and  its 
mineral  waters. 

The  valley  of  the  Roia  (rapid  river?  from  the  Latin 
ruo)y  offers  little  of  interest,  but  a  very  beautiful  drive, 
unless  indeed  the  tourist  is  able  to  afford  time  to  push  on 
as  far  as  Giandola  or  St.  Dalmas,  an  excursion  which 
necessitates  an  absence  of  several  days :  should  he  be  able 
to  do  so,  either  of  those  places  may  be  made  the  centre 
of  the  most  agreeable  excursions. 

But  those  I  have  mentioned  are  far  from  being  the 
only  interesting  drives  or  excursions  which  are  to  be 
found  in  our  neighbourhood. 

The  sanctuary  of  Santa  Croce  at  the  entrance  of  the 
valley  of  Vallecrosia,  the  Castel  d'Appio  above  Yenti- 
miglia,  Taggia  (the  birth-place  and  for  so  many  years  the 
home  of  the  Chevalier  Rnfiini),  with  the  lovely  valley  of 
Argentina  and  a  great  number  of  other  localities,  offer  to 
the  taste  of  the  winter  visitor  excursions  as  beautiful  as 
varied,  and  not  exquisite  views  only,  but  historical, 
archceological  and  geological  curiosities  of  the  greatest 
interest. 

Artists  also  will  find  in  our  valleys  and  on  our  hills  an 
inexhaustible  mine  for  sketches  and  pictures,  and  I  am 
happy  to  be  able  to  call  their  attention  to  an  interesting 
work  on  this  subject  from  the  pen  of  M.  Charles  Gamier, 
which  they  will  find  further  on. 


(    J4    ) 


CflAPTEU  III. 

DISTINCTIVE   CHARACTER   OF   THE   CLIMATE. 

Special  ^..on,  for  the  Mediterranean  climate-Exceptional  ...sition  of 
i>ordi2hera — Known  in/i  inr^n..  i  .  ,  '   auion  oi 

B  CI*     ivQovvn  and  inferred  causes  ol  the  climate. 

The  Wpai  and  Li.„rian  coast,  situated  between  the 
43rd  and  44th  parallels  of  latitude,  rejoices  in  a  hotter 

8  tuated  from  s.x  to  seven   degrees  further  south      But 
th.s  alone  ,s  not  sufficient  to  explain  the  exceptional  .oft 
ness  of  the  climate:  for  the  43rd  nar.ll^l  / 
Caucasus.   Tartar^,  and   the  enl^  t  J^Tx  t 
America,  and  everyone  knows  that  the  winter  of  thlse 
countries  has  no  resemblance  whatever  to  that  nf  T  ■ 
Therfi  miiQf  h^  +i  »ievtr  to  that  of  Liguria. 

Aflere  must  be,  then,  some  special  influences  in  a/iv 
-e^^^^^^^^^^^^^  to  produce  the  clTmrw^t 

ture  far  higher  than  those  of  the  de  ^o  ^  nj  ,'  r'"'" 
latitude.  P    ^""^^  '"  tlie  same 

chmate  which  differs  considerably  frolthosp  TT     "'' " 
of  Europe,  in  having  a  far  greaL    alu  rb:''?:^' 


CHARACTER   OF   CLIMATE. 


15 


But  this  climate,  so  superior  to  those  found  in  the  foggy 
countries  of  the  north,  varies  considerably  in  its  details 
one  place  with  another,  owing  to  the  nature  of  their  soil, 
their  position  as  regards  the  sea  and  its  depth  or  shallow- 
ness, the  height  and  distance  of  the  mountains,  which  to 
a  greater  or  less  degree  shelter  the  various  localities  and 
modify  considerably  the  direction  of  the  winds.     For  if 
we  study  a  map  of  the  coasts  of  Provence  and  Liguria, 
we  shall  notice  that  all  the  places  referred  to—Cannes, 
Nice,  ]\[entone,  San  Kemo,  Alassio,  Pegli,  Nervi,  and  the 
rest— are,  with  one  exception,  situated  at  the  bottom  of 
bays  more  or  less  deep :   Bordighera  alone  occupying  a 
prominent  position. 

The  promontory,  the  extremity  of  which  forms  the 
cape  of  Bordighera,  presents  on  the  map  the  appearance 
of  a  right  angle,  the  coast  receding  in  a  straight  line  on 
each  side  for  nearly  two  miles  to  north-west,  to  the  bottom 
of  the  bay  of  La  Euota,  and  for  more  than  three  to  the 
north-east  beyond  Ventimiglia. 

The  first  result  of  this  is  that  all  winds  from  east  or 
west,  veering  south,  necessarily  blow  from  the  sea,  the 
consequence  being  a  Salter  air  at  Bordighera,  even  inland, 
than  at  any  other  place  along  the  coast. 

The  predominating  influence  of  wind  from  the  sea 
forms  then  the  special  peculiarity  of  our  climate,  the 
only  one,  indeed,  which  has  a  serious  and  appreciable 
value. 

The  reader  will  find  further  on  a  detailed  analysis  of 
the  climate,  so  I  will  confine  myself  here  to  giving  a 
summary  of  it.  The  comparison  of  meteorological  obser- 
vations made  at  Bordighera  with  those  of  the  neighbouring 
winter  resorts,  shows  that  this  climate  really  possesses 


16 


BOKDIGHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


some  peculiarities  which  are  not  found  in  other  places 
along  the  coast ;  thus  it  is  impossible  to  deny  : 

1.  That  the  variations  of  temperature  are  less ;  that  is 
to  sav,  that  it  is  both  warmer  in  winter  and  cooler  in 

summer. 

2.  That  the  cold  rains  from  the  mountains  are  rarer. 

3.  That  the  winds  here  are  more  frequent  and  also 
stronger,  but  that,  modified  in  their  course,  they  are 
warmer  and  damper, 

4.  That  the  sky  is  more  frequently  cloudless,  and  con- 
sequently the  climate  is  sunnier  during  the  winter. 

But  these  conclusions  are  merely  suggestions.  They 
are  summarised,  it  is  true,  from  careful  observations,  as 
well  as  indicated  by  the  geographical  position ;  but  it  is 
only  by  a  careful  comparison  of  means  during  a  long  series 
of  years,  that  we  can  definitely  ascertain  the  facts. 

The  facts,  however,  even  when  most  complete,  constitute 
differences  so  infinitesimal  that  they  would  be  apparent 
only  in  meteorological  reports. 

The  climate  of  Bordighera  is,  then,  from  all  we  can 
learn,  very  similar  to  those  of  the  rest  of  the  coast,  with  a 
somewhat  larger  proportion  of  sea  winds  and  a  Salter  air, 
which  gives  it  an  essentially  tonic  character. 

This,  then,  is  the  only  conclusion  which  it  is  possible  to 
draw  from  the  facts  with  wliich  meteorology  furnishes  us, 
and  this  result  naturally  suggests  the  question,  "What 
complaints  does  the  climate  of  Bordighera  especially 
suit?"  To  which  we  reply,  Those  which  require  a 
southern  climate  combined  with  a  tonic  and  saline  air. 


(     17     ) 


CHAPTER  IV. 


LOCAL   SANITARY   CONDITIONS. 

Sanitary  position— Drainage  of  the  flat  ground — Death-rate  of 
Bordighera  and  other  places. 

For  the  traveller  who  thinks  of  passing  a  season  at  one  of 
the  winter  stations  on  the  Mediterranean  coast,  an  agree- 
able climate  and  a  pleasant  situation  are  not  the  only 
points  to  be  considered;  the  sanitary  conditions  of  the 
place  necessarily  play  an  important  part  in  the  selection. 
Strictly  speaking,  all  the  winter  stations  of  this  part  of 
Europe  enjoy  very  favourable  sanitary  conditions,  espe- 
cially if  we  compare  them  with  the  large  towns  of  northern 
Europe.  The  powerful  sun  which  warms  them,  and  the 
dry  and  purifying  winds  which  sweep  their  streets  during 
the  winter,  necessarily  produce  this  result.  But  if  we 
analyse  the  details,  if  we  compare  one  locality  with 
another,  we  are  compelled  to  admit  that  Bordighera  is  the 
most  favoured  of  all. 

Now  tliere  are  three  classes  of  facts  which  influence  the 
sanitary  conditions  of  a  place  :  its  topographical  position, 
the  nature  of  the  8oil,  and  the  density,  in  a  greater  or  less 
degree,  of  its  population. 

To  assure  ourselves  that  the  position  of  Bordighera  is 
eminently  healthy,  it  is  enough  to  make  a  visit  to  the 
Cape  and  look  around. 

The  old  town,  situated  on  a  ridge,  is  completely  ex- 
posed to  strong  east  and  west  winds,  which  penetrate  into 
the  most  remote  corners  of  the  streets  and  even  of  the 
houses.     New  Bordighera,  that  is  the  Borgio  Marina,  with 

c 


18  BORDIGHERA    AS   A    WINTER   RESORT. 

its  broad  and  rich  olive  woods,  is,  it  is  true,  only  exposed 
to  the  west  winds  ;  but  tlie  whole  of  this  neighbourhood, 
iutting  out  as  it  does  into  the  sea,  is  found  to  be  infinitely 
more  airy  and  more  subject  to  purifying  sea  air  than  is 
possible  in  towns  situated  in  bays. 

However,  at  first  sight  a  strang^'r  might  p(^rliaps  think 
that  the  drainage  of  new  Bordigheia  is  not  all  that  could 
be  desired.    The  old  town,  with  all  tlie  buildings  which 
are  grouped  around  the  Cape  and  on  tlie  hillsides  above  the 
Strada  Emiana,  are  no  doubt  slieltered  from  any  suspicion 
of  this  sort;  but  that  part  wldch  is  necessarily  destined  to 
receive  the  cliief  portion  of  the  town  of  the  future,  that 
is,  the  Via  Vittorio  Enmanuele  and  the  hind  separatmg 
it' from   Strada  Romana,  stretching   li'om   the  Cape   to 
tlie  Borghetto  valley  and  beyond,  is   only  raised  about 
12  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.     Nor  is  this  all.     The 
old  high-road,  now  become  the  Via  Vittorio  Emmanuele, 
having  been  constructed  on  a  bank  of  sand  and  gravel 
wbicirthe  sea  had  gradually  washed  up,  the  level  ground 
to  the  north  is  found  at  certain  points  to  be  considerably 

lower  than  the  shore. 

How  then,  under  such  conditions,  is  drainage  possible? 
Nature  herself,   most   fortunatt^ly,   comes  forward  to 

help  us. 

Further  on  the  reader  will  see,  in  the  geological  chapter, 
how  the  delta  of  tlie  Borgo  has  boon  formed,  and  the  con- 
stituents of  its  soil ;  so  I  will  only  mention  here  that  the 
soil  is  so  porous  tliat  water  penetrates  it  and  disappears 
with  extraordinary  rapidity. 

The  question  is  therefore  answered  in  the  simplest  and 
most  efficacious  manner  possible :  by  a  natural  drainage. 

With  regard,  then,  to  the  theory  that  I  have  been  ad- 


LOCAL   SANITARY   CONDITIONS. 


19 


vancing,  that  Bordighera  stands  at  the  head  of  the  winter 
resorts  so  far  as  healthiness  is  concerned,  I  will  refer  my 
readers  to  the  statistics  furnished  by  the  communal 
registers,  which  all  tend  to  support  my  position. 

Below  I  give  the  totals  of  births  and  deaths  for  the  ten 
years  ending  1880 : — 


1871 
1872 
1873 
1874 
1875 
187C) 
1877 
IS78 

1879 


Total 


Births. 
61 
54 
64 

54 
60 

87 
81 
68 
95 
70 

694 


Deaths. 
37 
34 
44 
38 
46 
45 
36 
55 
48 
48 

421 


The  excess,  then,  of  births  over  deaths  is  273,  more 
than  50  })er  cent. ;  but  the  proportion  which  the  result  of 
this  table  gives  is  less  than  the  truth,  because  the  foreign 
colony  furnishes  a  certain  number  of  deaths,  which  is 
rarely  the  case  with  births. 

The  population  of  the  commune  was,  by  the  census  of 
1871,  1688 ;  in  1878,  2048.     The  mean  for  that  period  is, 
consequently,  1868.     The  mean   of  deaths  during  that 
time  was  42*1,  which,  for  a  population  of  1868,  gives  a 
death-rate  of  22  •  7.* 

This  striking  fact  will  be  conclusive  to  the  minds  of  all 
statisticians,  for  it  proves  that  the  sanitary  conditions  of 
Bordighera  are  eminently  healthful. 

"'  According  to  the  Census  of  1881,  the  population  of  Bordighera  on 
December  31st  wa.  2372,  .u-  an  increase  of  324  souls  in  the  three  years.— 
A.  C.  D. 


c  2 


20        BOBDIOHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 

Below  I  give,  as  a  means  of  comparison,  the  deatli-rate 
of  some  of  tlie  large  towns  of  Europe  :— 

I^odie     40*  deaths  per  til ousaiid. 

Paris      31*2  „ 

London 25'  »i 

Lyons 31*2  t, 

Berlm 29-4 

Madrid 34*4  n 

Amsterdam    ..      ..     34  "4  „ 

Legliorii 28*5  „ 

Nice       32*2  „ 

Fifty  years  ago  the  entire  population  of  Bordigliera 
inhabited  the  circle  formed  by  the  old  bastions ;  but  on 
the  opening  of  the  carriage-road  from  Nice  to  Genoa 
buildino-  operations  commenced  at  the  Marina  and  the 
slopes  which  surround  the  old  town.  Into  these  new 
houses  those  residing  in  the  old  portions  of  the  town 
gradually  settled  themselves,  so  that  we  may  truthfully 
say  at  the  present  time  that,  along  the  whole  of  the  coast, 
there  is  no  place  where  the  residents  are  spread  over  so 

wide  an  area. 

We  must  therefore  conclude  a  priori  tliat  Bordighera 
ought  to  be  an  exceptionally  healthy  place,  as  indeed  we 
find  all  the  conditions  fulfilled  which  justify  such  a  con- 
clusion, viz. : — 

1.  An  airy  position,  far  from  the  mouth  of  a  river  or 
from  any  collection  of  stagnant  water. 

2.  A  soil  so  constituted  as  to  form  a  natural  drainage. 

3.  A  small  population  spread  over  a  large  area. 

This  conclusion  is  supported  by  facts.  Epidemics  ar** 
unknown  here ;  the  cholera  especially,  in  spite  of  frequent 
visits  to  the  neighbouring  towns  both  east  and  west,  has 
never  shown  itself  at  Bordighera. 


\ 


1* 


(     21     ) 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  CLIMATE  MEDICALLY  CONSIDERED. 

Opinion  of  a  resident  practitioner— A  few  hints  to  invalids. 

Although  this  book  is  by  no  means  a  medical  work,  I 
have  much  pleasure  in  inserting  here  a  few  notes  on  the 
character  of  the  climate,  for  which  I  am  indebted  to  Dr. 
J.  A.  Goodchild,  English  physician  at  Bordighera : 

"The  general  character  of  the  climate  of  the  Riviera  has  been  too 
often  descril>ed,  and  is  too  well  known,  both  to  the  medical  profession 
and  to  the  public,  for  it  to  be  needful  for  me  to  go  deeply  into  the 
question  of  its  merits  and  demerits  in  the  treatment  of  disease ;  so  I 
shall  content  myself  with  giving  those  particulars  in  which,  so  far  as 
my  experience  goes,  the  climate  of  Bordighera  differs  from  that  of  its 
neighbours.     In  the  climatological  iwrtion  of  this  work  the  observa- 
tions of  Mr.  Hamilton  go  to  prove  what  I  should  consider  probable 
beforehand,  namely,  that  whilst  the  average  temperature  in  the  winter 
is  much  the  same  as  that  of  its  neighbours,  it  is  cooler  in  spring  and 
autumn,  and  warmer  in  midwinter,  than  most  of  them ;  and  also  that, 
when  compared  with  the  east  bay  of  Mentone,  undoubtedly  the  warmest 
situation  on  the  entire  coast,  the  curious  fact  appears,  that  whilst  the 
maxima  at  Mentone  are  usually  from  four  to  six  degrees  higher  than  at 
Bordighera,  the  minima  are  in  almost  every  instance  lower. 

"  At  first  sight  this  difference  is  puzzling,  but  the  explanation  consists 
in  the  fact  that  radiation  goes  on  far  less  rapidly  during  the  night  from 
the  surface  of  the  densely  sheltered  plain  and  hills  of  Bordighera  than 
from  the  bare  and  rocky  mountains  which  form  the  coast  at  Mentone. 
In  the  daytime  these  arid  rocks  reflect  a  considerable  amount  of  heat, 
and  the  higher  maxima  at  Mentone  are  no  doubt  due  in  great  measure 
to  this  cause.  It  often  happens,  however,  that  during  cold  weather, 
even  in  the  daytime,  Mentone  is  colder  than  Bordighera.  This,  how- 
ever, only  occurs  during  exce[»tionally  cold  seasons,  and  is  evidence  of 
the  presence  of  large  masses  of  snow  upon  the  mountains  above  Men- 
lone  at  the  time  of  this  interchange  of  relative  day  temperatures. 
Two  other  causes  contribute  to  render  Bordighera  more  suitable,  for 


22 


BORDIGUELIA   AS  A  WINTER   RESORT. 


THE   CLIMATE   MEDICALLY   CONSIDERED. 


23 


tho..  vvl.n  uisli  tu  bf  much  in  the  oi»c«ii  air  i.i  midwinter,  than  either 
Mentuiie  or  San  lleuio,  lx)th  due  to  its  south-west  as^ct ;  the  two 
latter  i»laces  facing  south-east. 

"  The  first  is,  that  the  sue  sets  into  the  sea,  so  that  its  warmth  is 
preserved  till  the  last  moment,  whilst  at  Mentone  and  San  Remo  it 
sets  nearly  an  hour  earlier  hchiud  the  mountains  which  lie  to  tlie  west 
of  these  places.  I'his  is  m:itter  of  great  concern  to  invidids  in  the  short 
winter,  as  the  afteniocu  is  considerably  prolonged,  and  the  sunset  chill, 
which  constitutes  one  of  the  daufjers  of  a  southern  climate,  comes  on 

more  graiually. 

*'The  second  advantage  consists  in  the  much  fuller  protection  which 
Bordighera  enjoys  from  the  east  and  south-east  winds  than  its  rivals ; 
these  are  tlie  prevalent  w  inds  in  midwinter,  and  blow  straight  into  the 
neighbouring  towns.  Mr.  Hamilton  lias  stated  that  the  protection 
from  the  south-east  is  only  partial ;  this  is,  however,  only  true  of  the 
old  town  and  some  iK)rtions  of  the  Mari/i>i.  The  neighbourhood  of  the 
Stradii  liomima,  which  is  the  residential  ([uarter,  and  where  the  two 
new  hotels  are  in  courseof  construction,  is  better  sheltered  from  easterly 
winds  than  perhaps  any  similar  situation  on  the  coast. 

"As  regards  humidity,  whilst  the  average  moisture  of  the  air  is 

very  low,  even  near  the  sea,  far  lower  than  any  climate  to  be  found  in 

Europe  north  of  the  Alps,  the  dryness  does  not  equal  that  of  Cannes ;  the 

changes  from  saturation  to  extreme  dryness  are  also  less  rapid,  owing, 

1  believe,  to  our  richer  soil  and  the  abundance  of  trees.    This  fact  is 

an  advantage  to  newly  arrived  invalids,  who  have  not  been  [previously 

acclimatised,  as  the  sudden  changes  from  a  humid  atmosphere  to  a 

condition  of  extreme  dryness  are  a  fruitful  cause  of  severe  irritation  of 

the  mucous  membrane,  and  even  of  the  skin. 

"  In  conclusion,  I  may  say,  from  a  considerable  personal  experience, 
that  whilst  less  stimulant  and  exciting  than  either  Nice  or  Cannes,  the 
climate  of  Bordighera  is  far  more  bracing  than  that  of  Mentone ;  and 
l^erhaps,  allowing  for  the  differences  caused  by  a  diflerent  as[)ect, 
approaclies  more  nearly  to  that  of  its  neighbour,  San  Kemo. 

"With  these  general  characters,  with  a  good  water  sujiply  and  at 
present  a  scattered  jwpiilaiiou,  the  place  is  an  exceptional  residence  for 
almost  any  cases  marked  by  chronic  degeneration  of  tissue.  Chronic 
bronchitis,  asthma  dei)endent  upon  the  former  disorder  or  u\mn  dis- 
ordered digestion,  phthisis  of  a  non-febrile  type,  exhaustion  from  over 
work,  nervous  debility,  anemia,  chronic  Bright's  disease,  chronic 
rheumatism,  gout,  and  the  varied  forms  of  long-continued  disease  which 
affect  the  mucous  membrane,  are  all   likely  to  derive  more  or  less 


I 

I 


't 


( 


benefit  from  a  winter's  residence ;  and  I  should  like  to  say  a  strong 
word  in  favour  of  the  remarkable  effects  produced  by  this  climate  in 
every  case  of  diabetes  which  has  come  under  my  notice. 

"  Such  a  work  as  the  present  is  not,  however,  the  place  in  which  to 
dilate  upon  subjects  which  I  hope  to  have  the  opportunity  of  bringing 
before  the  members  of  my  own  profession  upon  some  future  occasion. 
The  information  contained  in  this  work  will  be  a  sufiBcient  guide  to 
those  physicians  who  may  wish  to  select  a  southern  residence  for  their 
patients ;  and  I  would  advise  all  non-medical  readers  to  avoid  acting 
upon  their  own  impulses  in  the  choice  of  a  winter  residence,  and  to 
consult  one  or  other  of  the  numerous  branch  of  physicians  who  possess 
practical  acquaintance  with  the  merits  of  the  multitudinous  health 
resorts  which  are  daily  being  pressed  into  notice  upon  the  Continent, 
many  upon  the  slenderest  evidence,  and  others  apparently  upon  no 
other  grounds  than  the  well-being  of  hotel-keepers." 

Travellers  from  northern  Europe  who  arrive  for  the 
first  time  on  the  Kiviera  not  unfrequently  lack  the  neces- 
sary knowledge  which  would  enable  them  to  place  them- 
selves under  the  most  favourable  conditions  for  a  residence 
in  this  climate.  I  will  therefore  add  a  few  words  of  advice 
to  the  visitor  who  comes  to  us  an  invalid,  and  is  thinking 
of  passing  a  winter  on  our  coast. 

1st.  Do  not  forget  that  you  are  stiU  in  Europe^  and  in  a 
climate  which  is  no  warmer  than  that  of  Canada,  save  by- 
reason  of  its  sheltered  position  and  its  proximity  to  a  sea 
whose  Walters  enjoy  an  unusually  high  temperature.  Do 
not  then  expect  from  the  climate  more  than  it  is  able  to 
give  you — that  is,  lovely  weather  rather  than  sub-tropical 

heat. 

2ud.  Do  not  keep  your  apartments  too  ivarm.  Nothing 
is  more  dangerous  for  a  delicate  person  than  sudden 
transitions  from  heat  to  cold.  In  the  damp  and  cold 
climates  of  Northern  Europe,  it  is  necessary  that  the 
interior  of  the  house  be  kept  warm,  and  one  is  therefore 
exposed  to  the  danger  of  facing  a  very  much  lower  tern- 


24 


BOHDIOHEllA   A-    A    WINTEH    RESORT. 


PKACTICAL   HINTS   TO   RESIDENTS. 


25 


perature  on  going  out  into  the  open  air,  but  in  the  south 
it  is  possible  to  avoid  a  change  as  disagreeable  as  danger- 
ous. From  the  moment  that  the  rays  of  the  sun  fall  on 
your  apartment,  its  teiiiperatiiro  is  naturally  raised  to 
about  54^  Fahr. ;  it  is  better,  therefore,  to  content  your- 
self with  a  fire  in  the  evening  only,  when  you  have  come 
in  for  good. 

3rd.  Do  not  he  out  after  the  dew  has  begun  to  fall',  that 
is,  for  half  an  hour  before,  until  two  hours  after  sunset. 
Later  in  the  evening  you  may  go  out  with  impunity,  as 
the  temperature  rises  several  degrees. 

4th.  Ahvays  take  your  tvaJks  in  the  morning.  Invalids 
too  often  bring  with  them  to  the  Riviera  the  habits  and 
customs  of  more  temperate  latitudes,  one  of  which  is 
taking  their  usual  walks  after  luncheon — that  is,  between 
two  and  four  o'clock.  These  happen,  however,  to  be 
precisely  the  hours  when  the  wind  is  most  to  be  feared. 
The  blusterous  winds  which  blow  from  the  east,  west,  and 
Bouth-west  seldom  get  up  (except  during  tempestuous 
periods)  before  eleven  o'clock,  but  then  invariably  increase 
in  force  after  mid-day.  Above  all,  then,  we  advise  a 
choice  of  the  calm  hours  of  the  early  morning,  say  between 
nine  and  eleven,  for  the  daily  constitutional. 

5th.  Bo  not  wrap  too  warmly.  In  these  sheltered 
places  on  which  the  sun  shines  so  powerfully,  there  is  a 
great  tendency  to  perspire  freely,  and  especially  if  too 
warmly  clad.  Along  the  Riviera  coast  then,  it  is  wiser 
to  accustom  the  body,  both  in  the  open  air  as  well  as  iu 
doors,  to  a  lower  temperature,  and  it  is  found  by  experi- 
ence that  this  can  be  done  without  risk. 

6th.  Bo  not  leave  your  winter  quarters  too  early  in  the 
spring.    A  large  number  of  our  winter  visitors  turn  again 


j 


northwards  during  the  month  of  May,  and  by  doing  so, 
not  unfrequently  run  the  risk  of  losing  much  of  the  benefit 
they  may  have  received  from  their  winter  iu  the  south. 

The  summer  of  Northern  Europe  has  not  commenced 
in  May ;  the  temperature  is  still  low  and  the  winds,  as  a 
rule,   blowing    keenly   from    the  north-east,   at  best  a 
modified  March.     The  month  of  June  even  leaves  much 
to  be  desired,  above   all   by  those  who   have  rendered 
themselves  especially  sensitive  to  damp  and  cold  by  a 
residence  where  the  climate  is  particularly  warm  and  dry. 
On  the  other  hand,  on  this  coast,  June  is  one  of  the  most 
delightful  months   of  the   year ;  it   is   characterised  by 
lovely  days  of  moderate  warmth  and  cool  nights,  and 
frequent  showers  which  preserve  the  luxuriant  vegetation 
of  the  spring.     The  time  of  intense  dryness,  when  this 
coast  is  alone  disagreeable,  begins  about  midsummer,  or 
sometimes  later,  and  ends  about  the  15th  of  September. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

PKACTICAL  HINTS  TO  ENGLISH  RESIDENTS   IN  ITALY. 

Number  of  foreigners  iu  Italy— Peculiar  difficulties  encountered  by  the 
English— General  state  of  legislation  and  administration— The  pro- 
gress of  twenty  years— Public  administration— Property— Mortgages 
—Taxation— Leases  and  tenants— Wills  and  successions— Banking 
and  sundries. 
Few  countries  are  frequented  by  strangers  to  the  same 
extent  as  Italy.     The  climate,  the  natural  beauties  of  the 
landscape,  the  historical  associations  connected  with  the 
land  of  Caesar  and  Dante,  and  the  magnificent  monuments 


26  BORDIOHERA  AS  A  WINTER   RESORT. 

of  classic  times  and  medifeval  art,  are  all  attractious  of 
tlie  liigliest  order  and  wbieh  draw  together  in  tlie 

** .  .  .  IkjI  paese 
che  rAi^nnin  parte  e  il  mar  circoiida  e  TAlpe," 

a  motley  crowd  of  valetudinarians,  antiquarians,  artists  and 
pleasure-seekers  of  all  classes. 

The  number  of  foreigners  (stranieri)  established  iu 
Italy  is  surprising  ;*  it  amounts  to  one-fifth  per  cent,  of 
the  entire  population.  According  to  the  census  of 
1st  January,  1882,  these  foreigners  were  divided  as 
follows :— 

Austrians      ..      15,790 

Sui.^s ..  12,104 

Freocli 10,781 

British 7,402 

Germans        5,234 

IviLssiaiis        1,387 

( ireoks 1,212 

*Si>auianls      922 

Turks 001 

Belgians        583 

Swedes  and  Norwegians      441 

Hnngariaiiis 302 

Dutdi 204 

Danes 168 

Nortli  Americans  (U.S.) 1,286 

Soiitli  Americans  and  Mexicans         ..  906 

Other  nationalities       633 

Total     51>,956 

The  large  numbers  of  Austrians  and  Swiss  are  principally 
compost>d  of  the  labouring  classes ;  the  French  are  chiefly 

*  The  siixnificatiotis  of    '  ,  i  .        ,  .exactly  the  opposite  to 

thosi'  t.i   tin'  c.rrojHin.liii^-  wur.l.s   m  Liiiili.-h.     A  atninkro  is  a  foreigner  to 
the  country,  a  i  -tiaiii:-  r  to  the  [.lace. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS  TO   RESIDENTS. 


27 


II 


shopkeepers,  engineers,  and  men  otherwise  engaged  in 
business :  hence  the  largest  proportion  of  those  foreigners 
with  private  means  residing  in  Italy  is  supplied  by  the 
British  empire ;  and  to  these  7402  permanent  residents 
we  must  add  the  thousands  of  health-seekers  and  tourists 
who  flock  into  Italy  every  autumn.  Switzerland,  during 
the  summer  months,  will  doubtless  show  a  larger  number 
of  tourists  in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  the  country, 
certainly  not  of  residents. 

But  of  all  people  who  settle  in  Italy,  the  English  stand 
most  iu  need  of  practical  information.  Others— the  French, 
for  instance—find  not  only  a  language  more  akin  to  their 
own,  but  a  legislation  and  mode  of  doing  business  of  every 
kind  which  do  not  differ  essentially  from  what  they  have 
in  their  own  country.  But  to  the  Englishman  all  is  new. 
The  language  is  radically  different  from  his  own ;  the 
laws,  the  organisation  of  the  various  public  departments, 
the  system  of  taxation,  and  the  proceedings  necessary  for 
the  transaction  of  business  of  all  kinds,  are  totally  at 
variance  with  what  is  familiar  to  him  at  home. 

Of  course  the  first  impulse  of  Englishmen  under  such 
circumstances  is  to  criticise  and  grumble  at  what  they  do 
not  understand,  and  to  expatiate  in  glowing  colours  on 
the  superior  way  of  managing  everything  in  the  British 
Islands.  Indeed,  I  have  often  been  amused  at  this 
tendency  in  would-be  English  proprietors  in  Italy,  who, 
after  having  ventured  for  the  first  time  across  the  "  silver 
streak,"  come  to  ask  for  information,  say,  how  to  buy  a 
piece  of  land,  without  running  the  risk  of  paying  for  it 
twice  over.  When  one  begins  to  explain  the  admirable 
clearness  of  the  law  on  property,  and  the  very  simple 
formalities  connected  with  its  transfer,  a  man  will  often 


28 


BOBDIGHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


fire  up  at  hearing  barbarously  sounding  terms  which  he 
does  not  understand,  and  then,  after  branching  off  into  a 
long  dissertation  on  how  the  same  thing  would  be  done  in 
England  or  Scotland,  finally  leave  the  office  no  wiser  than 
when  he  entered  it. 

In  the  French  edition  of  this  book  I  did  not  deem  it 
necessary,  for  the  reason  stated  above,  to  devote  any  space 
to  such  matters ;  but  the  case  is  different  when  writing 
for  the  English,  who  are  generally  compelled  to  glean  the 
information  they  require  in  a  language  they  understand 
but  imperfectly,  and  from  more  or  less  reliable  sources, 
such  as  hotel  and  shopkeepers ;  or  by  applying  at  public 
offices  where  they  rarely  meet  with  more  than  what  a  well- 
known  writer  so  happily  calls  "  the  bamboozling  smell  of 
how  not  to  do  it."  Hence  I  feel  sure  that  a  few  practical 
hints  to  intending  or  present  residents  in  Italy  will  prove 
a  boon  to  many. 

But  let  me  first  offer  a  few  words  on  the  general  state 
of  legislation  and  public  administration. 

In  the  days  of  the  fallen  despots,  when  Bomba  and 
Bombalmo  could  allow  the  lazzaroni  to  sack  Naples  with 
impunity,  when  Canapone  could,  without  blushing,  order 
the  artillery  of  the  Fortezza  da  Basso  to  bombard  the  town 
at  Florence — when,  in  a  word,  climate,  art  and  ruins,  with 
cheating,  highway  robbery,  dirty  inns  and  slow  travelling, 
were  tlie  only  attractions  which  Italy  could  offer  to  the 
tourist,  and  the  best  eulogy  that  could  be  pronounced  on 
her  was  to  call  her  la  Terra  dei  morii—dthctixe  legislation, 
corrupt  administration,  iniquitous  taxation,  and  all  the 
evils  of  bad  government  were  naturally  the  order  of  the 
day.  But  it  is  important  not  to  confound  the  past  with 
the  preseni  state  of  tlie  country. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO    RESIDENTS. 


29 


An  eminent  writer  remarked  lately,  that  Italy  has 
done  in  twenty  years  what  England  did  in  six  hundred. 
This— and  it  is  true  to  a  great  extent— is  of  course  less 
owing  to  anything  peculiar  in  the  character  of  the  people 
than  to  the  rapidity  with  which  events  take  place  in  the 
nineteenth  century,  aided  by  the  powerful  patriotic  feeling 
which  arose  with  the  peaceful  and  glorious  revolution  of 

1860. 

All  matters  connected  with  legislation,  public  adminis- 
tration and  instruction,  taxation,  &c.,  are  now  organised 
in  Italy  upon  a  most  satisfactory  footing.  It  has  indeed 
been  said  that  the  State  is  in  advance  of  the  people ;  that 
the  new  legislation  and  administrative  principles  are 
beyond  the  comprehension  of  the  ignorant  inhabitants, 
degraded  and  demoralised  as  they  have  been  by  centuries 
of  tyranny,  and  that  consequently  the  laws  fail  to  work 
well.  Such  is  truly  the  case  in  the  southern  provinces  ; 
not  so  in  the  northern,  especially  in  the  highly  civilised 
and  prosperous  district  of  Liguria. 

There  everything  proceeds  in  the  most  orderly  manner ; 
and  those  who  contemplate  settling  in  this  country  may 
do  so  unhesitatingly,  as  they  will  find  everything  relating 
to  the  transaction  of  business  just  as  satisfactory,  and,  I 
may  add,  in  many  respects  much  easier,  than  they  would 
at  home,  if  they  will  only  set  about  what  they  want  to  do  in 

the  right  way. 

I  now  proceed  to  examine  the  different  questions  con- 
nected with  business,  which  I  will  class  under  the  fol- 
lowing heads  :— Public  administrations,  Property,  Mort- 
gages, Taxation,  Wills  and  Successions,  Banking  and 
Sundries. 


30 


BORDIOHERA     \-    A    WINTER   RESORT. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO    RESIDENTS. 


31 


STATE  ORGANISATIONS  FOR  THE  PUBLIC  SERVICE. 

Local  government  in  Italy  is  oro:aiiise(l  as  follows: 

The  ('ountrvis  divided  into  [tioviiic  s.  .aeh  of  which  has 
a  Preffct  (Prefetto)  iv-idinir  in  tlie  rlii.'t'  town  (capo-Iuo(jo) ; 
these  are  a;;;iin  (lividril  into  fV  hiri,  presided  over  hy 
Sub-prefects  (SoUoprefeiii).  Each  province  has  a  Provincial 
Co\mcil{Consi(/IioProvi)if''"^"). ejected  by  the  i)eo|)]e,  wliich 
holds  one  or  two  sessions  every  year,  to  discuss  provincial 
interests.  This  body  appoints  a  permanent  commission  of 
three  or  more  of  its  members  (Dejjufazione  Provinclale),  Inr 
the  dispatch  of  ordinary  business. 

The  communes  or  townships  (Comuni)  are  administered 
by  a  mayor  (Sindaco)  and  a  town  council  {ConsigUo 
Comunale),  the  number  of  whose  members  is  in  proportion 
to  tlie  population:  at  Bordiglura  we  have  fifteen;  this 
council,  as  in  the  preceding  case,  appoints  a  permanent 
commission  {Giunia\  composed  of  men  liters  (Assessor  i)  who 
are  authorised  to  undertake  the  duties  of  the  mayor  when 
absent  from  any  cause.  The  crown  ii|»p( tints  tlie  mayor, 
clioosing  him  among  the  elected  Assessor i ;  the  appointment 
is  for  fi\('  \i  ars.  One  tifth  of  the  council  is  renewed  each 
year  by  election.  No  deliberation  of  a  communal  council 
is  valid  unless  ratified  by  the  Provincial  Deputation. 

Communes  are  grouped  for  judiciary,  military,  and  other 
purposes  in  " cmitous'' (mandamth.,,,  havinir  a  judo-e  a 
Conciliator,  a  tax-gatherer,  and  other  functionaries  in 
common. 

The  judge  of  the  mandamento  passes  sentence  for  minor 
penal  offences,  like  a  magistiate  in  England,  and  hears 
civil  cases  in  which  tlie  interest  involved  is  not  above 


1500  francs.     The  Conciliator  hears  only  those  not  ex- 
ceeding thirty  francs. 

At  the  Capo  Luogo  di  Circondario  there  is  a  Correctional 
tribunal  for  higher  penal  offences,  and  at  the  chief  town  of 
the  province  a  Civil  tribunal  for  civil  cases  of  all  kinds, 
and  a  Commercial  trihiinal,  whose  judges  are  merchants  or 
manuflicturers  elected  by  their  colleagues,  and  which  hears 
all  cases  in  which  commercial  interests  are  involved.  The 
Court  of  Assizes  also  holds  sessions  once  or  twice  a  year  in 
the  chief  towns  for  trial  by  jury.  Appeals  from  all  these 
tribunals  are  allowed  to  the  Courts  of  Appeal  and  thence  to 
those  of  Cassation. 

Tlie  police  service  in  Italy  is  effected  by  three  distinct 
corps :  1st,  the  Carabineers  {Beali  Carabinieri),  a  military 
police,  both  foot  and  mounted;  2nd,  the  police  properly 
so-called  (Guardie  di  Puhblica  Sicurezza)  ;  these  are  at- 
tached to  courts  of  law  and  prisons,  and  preserve  order  in 
the  streets  of  large  towns :  the  detectives  belong  to  this 
corps ;  3rd,  the  local  police  {Guardie  di  Citta)  supported 
by  the  municipalities  of  large  towns  to  supplement  the 
other  corps  for  street  service.  But  in  small  places,  as  at 
Bordighera,  the  whole  service  is  effected  by  the  carabineers 
and  one  or  two  Guardie  Urbane. 

I  may  remark  here  that  the  terms  police  (polizia)  and 
gendarme  (<7e?ir?arwie),  having  become  odious  to  the  public 
ear  through  their  association  with  the  tyranny  of  past 
times,  have  been  completely  banished  from  the  official 
vocabulary  of  Italy,  and  replaced  by  those  of  public  se- 
curity {Sicurezza  Pubblica)  and  carabineers  {Carabinieri), 

Public  instruction  in  Italy  is  organised  on  a  principle 
which  differs  widely  from  that  of  France.  The  machinery 
is  as  follows. 


oA 


BORDIGHERA    AS    A    WINTER   RESORT. 


I 


Four  classes  of  elementary  schools,  viz  Ist  and  2nd,  to  be 
found  in  almost  every  village ;  these  are  obligatory  by  a 
recent  law,  which  however  is  not  as  yet  applied  as  rigor- 
ously as  it  should  be  ;  3rd  and  4th,  existing  in  all  towns  and 
most  chief  places  (ca^i  Imghi)  of  cantons,  as  at  Bordighera. 
Besides  these  official  schools,  tliere  are  infant  asylums 
{asili  infantili),  mixed  schools  for  small  children  of  both 
sexes,  and  adult  evening  schools,  all  supported  by  volun- 
tary contributions  with  help  from  the  communes. 

I  should  remark  liere  that  whereas  in  other  countries 
tlie  first  class  in  a  school  is  the  highest,*  and  consequently 
the  last  through  which  the  pupil  passes,  in  Italy  tlie  oppo- 
site, and  perhaps  more  ratioiuil  system,  has  been  adopted, 
the  classes  being  numbered  in  the  order  in  which  they  are 
gone  through  from  the  lowest  to  the  highest. 

After  the  elementary  classes  the  pupil  has  before  liim 
two  distinct  lines  of  study,  tlie  technical  and  the  classical ; 
the  former  leading  him  through  a  series  of  special  schools 
and  colleges  to  the  career  of  a  civil  engineer,  to  commer- 
cial and  nautical  life,  to  the  arni\  and  navy,  Sec;  the 
latter  through  the  gymnasium  {ginnasio),  the  lyceum 
Qiceo)  and  the  university  (universitd),  to  the  professions  of 
the  bar,  medicine,  &c. 

The  chief  occasions  on  which  English  residents  and 
visitors  are  called  upon  to  have  dealings  with  the  local 
authorities  are  tlie  registration  of  births  and  deaths;  mar- 
riages between  British  subjects  being  independent  of  the 
Italian  laws. 

All  births  must  be  registered  within  five  days.     The 

*  The  author  seems  to  have  forgotten  that  in  all  the  great  public  schools 
in  En£;lantl  th*.-  numeration  is  the  same  as  iu  Italy,  the  Upper  Sixth  being  the 
highest. — A.  C.  D. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO    RESIDENTS. 


33 


law  requires  the  child  to  be  presented  at  the  communal 
office  for  tlie  certification  of  the  sex,  but  this  can  gene- 
rally be  avoided  by  a  medical  certificate  from  an  Italian 
official  physician,  that  of  an  English  practitioner  not 
being  sufficient. 

Deaths  must  be  registered  within  twentv-four  hours, 
before  which  lapse  of  time  no  body  can  be  buried,  except 
under  peculiar  circumstances.  A  medical  certificate  of 
the  same  description  as  above  is  necessary. 

PROPERTY. 

All  property  is  freehold,  at  least  in  this  part  of  Italy ; 
the  system  of  long  or  perpetual  leases  (enjiteusi)  being 
confined  to  the  central  and  southern  provinces. 

Land  is  generally  sold  by  the  square  metre,  or,  in  the 
olive  woods  of  the  less  modernised  part  of  the  country,  at 
so  much  a  tree  at  a  valuation.  The  title  to  ownership 
consists  in  the  "  transcription  "  (trascrizione)  at  the  Office 
of  JMortgages  (Conservazione  delle  fyoteche).  At  this  office 
a  register  is  kept  in  which  an  account  is  opened  to  every 
landowner,  and  in  which  land  is  transferred  (trascritto) 
from  one  name  to  another  upon  presentation  of  a  deed  of 
sale,  or  of  a  w^ill  or  other  document  showing  that  one  per- 
son has  inherited  it  from  another.  For  the  purpose  of 
"  transcription,"  land  is  described  by  (a)  the  names  of  the 
former  owners,  (6)  the  boundaries  as  expressed  in  deeds, 
(c)  the  official  number  it  bears  in  the  catasio  or  survey 
map  of  the  country.  Once  the  "  transcription  "  is  effected, 
the  transfer  is  complete  and  definite.* 

*  The  excellence   of  this  simple   and   expeditious  system  is  shown  by  it 
having  been  adopted  in  Canada,  Australia,  and,  I  believe,  all  the  great  British 
colonies. 


34 


BORDIGHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO   RESIDENTS. 


35 


Now,  let  lis  suppose  that  Mr.  Smith  is  about  to  purchase 
a  piecJ  of  land  at  IJordighera,  and  see  how  he  should  set 

about  it. 

Having  agreed  as  to  the  price  witli  the  seller  (and  this 
he  will  prudently  have  done  in  writing),  the  first  tiling  is 
to  see  how  the  property  stands  as  to  mortgages  (tor  th(^ 
nature  of  mortgages,  see  fallowing  page).  For  this  purpose 
he  must  go  to  the  Uffizto  delle  IiMeclie  at  San  Eemo,  and 
ask  to  see  the  account  of  So-and-so.  The  register  is 
public,  but  there  is  a  charge  of  50  centimes  for  each 

account  one  looks  at. 

Having  satisfied  himself  on  this  point,  the  next  thing  is 
to  send  for  a  notary,  who  will  write  out  the  deed  of  con- 
veyance {contratto  di  vendita)  currente  calamo,  and  attest 
the  signaturea  of  the  parties,  together  with  two  wit- 
nesses. 

If  there  are  mortgages  on  the  property,  the  mortgagees 

should  be  present  and  receive  tlieir  money,  otherwise  the 
mortgages  will  remain  on  the  land  and  run  their  course, 
the  buyer,  of  course,  retaining  the  amount.  The  deed 
must  be  registered  at  the  liicevitoria  del  Begistro  at 
Ventimiglia  within  twenty  days  of  its  date.  This  regis- 
tration, for  which  a  duty  of  forty-eight  per  thousand  on 
the  price  is  paid,  does  not  effect  the  legality  of  the  deed, 
being  merely  a  matter  of  taxation.  The  "  transcription  " 
at  San  Kemo,  which  implies  the  real  transfer,  is  indepen- 
dent of  registration. 

The  only  other  formality  necessary  is  to  communicate 
the  deed  to  the  office  of  the  Catasto  or  survey,  at  the  town- 
hall  of  Bordighera :  this  merely  with  a  view  to  having  the 
owner's  name  changed  at  the  tax  agency.  I  should  add 
that  these  formalities,  including  the  visit  to  the  Office  of 


Mortgages   at    San    Rerao,   are    generally    left   to    the 
notary. 

Tlie  expense  of  conveyancing  is  considerable,  and  it 
falls  entirely  upon  the  purchaser.  Including  registration 
duty,  as  above,  stamps,  certificates,  notary's  fees,  &c.,  it 
will  generally  amount  to  between  six  and  seven  per  cent, 
of  the  sum  paid.  It  is  always  preferable,  when  possible, 
to  pay  for  land  in  cash  on  the  signing  of  the  deed,  as  a 
receipt  signed  at  a  later  period  is  subject  to  a  stamp  duty, 
and,  of  course,  a  second  fee  to  the  notary.  In  the  case  of 
Jiouses,  furniture  and  other  "  movables "  should  be  men- 
tioned in  the  deed  and  quoted  for  their  full  value,  as 
the  registration  duty  on  such  articles  is  only  twenty-four 
per  thousand. 

MORTGAGES. 

These  {fyotecJie)  are  loans,  marriage  settlements,  or 
other  moneys  owing  and  charged  upon  landed  property. 

They  are  subject  to  the  following  legislation  : — 

No  mortgage  can  have  a  duration  of  more  than  thirty 
years;  at  the  expiration  of  this  period,  if  not  renewed, 
they  fall  void  by  limitation  (prescrizione)  or  prescription, 
as  it  is  called  in  Scotland. 

Mortgages,  to  be  legal,  must  be  registered,  subject  to  a 
duty  of  six  per  thousand,  and  "inscribed"  (iscritti)  on  the 
pro})erty  at  the  Office  of  Mortgages  mentioned  above. 
They  affect  only  the  property  upon  which  they  are 
charged,  and  they  do  so  in  the  order  of  their  "  inscrip- 
tion." 

An  example  will  make  this  clear. 

Mr.  John  Smith  purchases  a  piece  of  land  and  builds  a 
house  upon  it,  but  not  having  cash  enough  to  cover  the 

D  2 


36        BORDIOHERA  AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 

expenses,  which  exceed  his  estimate  by  a  long  figure,  he 
contracts  two  successive  loans  of,  say,  1000/.  each,  with 
two  different  parties.  These  are  dnly  "inscribed"  as 
mortirages  on  the  proi)erty.  Now,  let  us  suppose  that  at 
the  term  stipulated  for  refunding  these  mortgages,  Mr. 
Smith  does  not  fulfil  his  engagements,  and  fails  to  pay. 
His  creditors  now  have  the  right  to  seize  his  house  and 
land  (not  his  furniture)  and  put  them  up  for  sale  by 
auction.  If  the  property  sells  for  more  than  the  2000?. 
charged  on  it,  Mt.  Smith  will  receive  the  balance ;  but  if 
it  sells  for  less,  say  1500/.,  the  mortgagee  whose  "  inscrip- 
tion "  bears  the  earliest  date  will  get  the  whole  of  his 
money,  the  other  creditor  having  to  content  himself  with 
500/. ;  nor  can  he  touch  any  other  property  belonging 
to  the  debtor,  not  even  if  he  had  an  estate  worth  a 
million  of  francs  next  door.  From  this  the  reader  will 
clearly  understand  that,  in  the  case  of  mortgages,  the  real 
debtor  is  the  land  they  are  charged  upon,  not  the  owner  of 
it,  and  that  in  lending  money  on  landed  security  it  is 
always  advisable  to  have  a  jii'st  mortgage. 

TAXATION. 

The  equitable  distribution  of  taxation,  so  that  each 
citizen  shall  contribute  to  the  expenses  of  the  State  in  [pro- 
portion to  his  income,  is  one  of  the  most  difficult  problems 
of  political  economy.  Theoretically  speaking,  this  problem 
is  at  once  solved  by  an  ineome4ax,  in  the  broadest  accep- 
tation of  the  term,  everyone  lianding  over  to  the  State  a 
certain  percentage  of  his  income,  from  whatever  source  it 
may  be  derived.  But  in  jiractice  the  difficulties  which 
beset  the  application  of  the  principle  are  enormous.  Hence 
have  arisen  the  multifarious  contrivances  for  taxation 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO   RESIDENTS. 


37 


which  exist  in  different  countries.  In  Italy  the  end  has 
been  attained  by  two  distinct  systems,  direct  and  indirect 
taxation.     Let  us  consider  them  successively. 

Direct  Taxation. — This  is  in  fact  but  a  subdivision  of 
the  income-tax  into  three  heads,  viz.  on  land  (terreni), 
buildings  (fahhricati),  and  income  properly  so  called 
(riechezza  mohile). 

The  machinery  provided  for  the  collection  of  these  taxes 
is  as  follows  : — 

The  country  is  divided  into  districts  (circoscrizioni),  for 
each  of  which  there  is  a  tax-agent  {agente  delle  tasse),  and 
these  are  subdivided  into  groups  {consorzi)  consisting  of 
several  communes,  each  having  a  tax-gatherer  (esattore). 
Our  tax-agent  resides  at  Yentimiglia,  the  tax-gatherer  at 
Bordighera. 

The  business  of  the  agent  consists  in  taxing  new  build- 
ings or  fresh  sources  of  income,  the  land-tax  rarely 
varying. 

He  sets  about  it  in  the  following  way  : — 

Wh<  n  a  new  house  is  built,  or  a  shop,  manufactory,  or 
other  industrial  establishment  opened,  the  agent  serves  a 
notice  upon  the  ow^ner  in  which  he  informs  him  that  he 
has  estimated  the  income  supposed  to  be  derived  from  his 
house  or  establishment,  at  a  certain  figure.  The  proprietor 
generally  thinks  this  figure  too  high,  and  he  has  twenty 
days  to  appeal,  by  a  petition  (ricorso)  on  stamped  paper, 
to  the  Commission  of  the  group  {Commissione  consorziale), 
stating  his  reasons  for  demanding  a  reduction.  This  com- 
mission is  a  body  elected  by  the  councils  of  all  the  com- 
munes of  the  group,  and  its  members  being  tax-payers 
themselves,  their  tendency  naturally  is  to  cut  down  the 
agent's  figures. 


do 


BOHDIGHERA   AS  A  WINTER  RESORT. 


If  neither  party  (proprietor  or  agent)  are  satisfied 
with  the  decision,  tln^y  both  have  twenty  days  to  api)eal 
to  the  Provincial  Commission,  sitting  at  the  chief  town,  and 
after  that  there  is  a  third  appeal,  in  the  same  way,  to 
a  Central  Commission  at  Rome.  However,  in  practice  the 
proceedings  rarely  go  beyond  the  first  appeal. 

The  factor  {aliqmta)  used  fur  obtaining  the  amount  to  be 
paid,  is,  for  the  income-tax,  13  francs  20  cents ;  for  the  other 
two,  30  per  cent,  of  the  taxable  income  (reddito  imfoni- 
Me)  upon  which  the  parties  agree.  Of  course,  the  gist  of 
the  question  lies  in  this  figure  :  what  proportion  does  it 
bear  to  the  real  income  ?  But  this  is  rather  a  dangerous 
question  to  treat  in  print ;  suffice  it  to  say  that  everyone 
naturally  does  his  utmost  to  get  his  figure  fixed  as  low  as 
possible. 

The  functions  of  the  tax-gatherer  consist  merely  in  col- 
lecting the  taxes  according  to  the  rolls  (ruoU)  which  are 
transmitted  to  him  by  the  agent.  They  are  payable  by 
sixths,  in  bi-monthly  instalments,  or  the  whole  in  June, 
under  penalty  of  a  fine  of  4  per  cent.  The  above  fiictors 
are  fixed  by  Act  of  Parliament,  and  vary  in  slight  propor- 
tions from  time  to  time.  Tliey  are  subject  also  to  be  in- 
creased and  even  doubled  by  the  communes,  under  certain 
special  circumstances,  of  which  hereafter. 

Indirect  Taxation. — These  taxes  consist  of  custom- 
house duties,  the  monopoly  of  the  sale  of  salt  and  tobacco, 
stamps,  registration  and  succession  duties,  and,  above  all, 
town  duties,  or  dazi  comunali,  tlie  octrois  of  France. 

Town  duties  are  the  most  inconvenient  taxes  for 
the  public,  as  they  entail  a  repetition  of  that  most 
objectionable  institution,  the  Custom  House,  throughout 
the  interior  of  the  country,  at  the  gate  of  every  citv,  and 


t 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO  RESIDENTS. 


39 


they  have  also  the  disadvantage  (or  advantage,  according 
to  some)  of  encouraging  building  outside  rather  than  inside 
towns,  leading  thus  to  the  formation  of  extensive  suburbs 
inhabited  by  the  labouring  classes.  But  on  the  other 
hand,  they  offer  the  advantage  of  being  a  most  equitably 
distributed  tax,  as  they  are  necessarily  paid  in  a  fair  pro- 
portion by  all  consumers. 

The  dazio  di  consumo  or  dazio  comunale  is  divided  into  two 
classes,  pertaining  to  the  State  and  to  the  communes.  The 
Government  duty  applies  merely  to  wine,  beer,  and  spiritu- 
ous liquors,  and  it  is  levied  on  all  the  communes  through- 
out the  kingdom  indiscriminately  by  direct  taxation 
on  the  licensed  vendors  of  spirits,  like  an  English  excise 
duty,  in  those  communes  which  have  no  dazio  of  their  own, 
and  hence  form  the  class  of  comuni  aperti ;  and  by  a  sum 
or  canone  paid  annually  by  the  commune  to  the  State  in 
those  which,  having  an  octroi,  form  that  of  comu7ii  chiusi. 

Once  a  town  has  agreed  with  the  Government  as  to  the 
sum  to  be  paid,  it  is  free  to  tax,  subject  to  ministerial 
approbation,  every  kind  of  merchandise  which  is  intro- 
duced into  its  territory.  At  Bordighera  we  pay  dazio  on 
eatables  and  liquors  of  all  descriptions,  furniture,  building 
materials— almost  everything,  in  a  word,  except  tissues. 

The  following  extract  from  the  tariff  will  give  the 
reader  an  idea  of  the  duty  on  a  few  important  articles :— 


Wine,  per  100  litres     .. 
Brandy,  per  bottle 
Fresh  meat,  per  100  kilus.    . . 
Flour,  per  100  kilos 

Fr. 

..      ..       5 

..      ..       0-27 
..      ..       9 
..      ..       1-50 
..      ..       7 

i)iiLi/er              n 

..      ..       5 

Dugar               1, 
Poultry            „ 

..      ..     10 

40 


BORI'IGllEIiA    AS    A    WINTER   KESORT. 


,  ' 


Ft. 

Coffee,  |)er  100  kilos 

5 

Tea                 „             

..    100 

Coal  and  charcoal,  per  100  Idlux 

0-50 

Lime,  per  100  kilos 

0-20 

Farnituns  metal,  per  100  kil^>^^. .. 

3 

„         walnut          „ 

5 

„        mahogany    „ 

8 

Pianos,  I iir  100  kilos.    .. 

8 

Gunpowtk-r   „                

..      12 

Soaj)             „               

3 

DyDamite     „               

..     20 

Stearic  candles,  j>er  100  kilos.     .. 

..      15 

The  dazi  comunali  are  not  collected  in  Italy,  as  are  tlic 
octrois  of  France,  by  direct  adiriiiiistration  for  the  account 
of  the  town ;  they  are,  with  few  exceptions,  farmed  out  by 
auction  for  periods  of  five  years,  to  contractors,  who  pay 
whatever  the  sum  may  be,  and  then  make  the  most  protit 
they  can.  At  Bordighera,  as  may  naturally  be  suppo.^ed, 
the  fijyiire  at  which  the  dazio  is  let  has  steadilv  increased 
at  all  tlie  rtcent  auctions,  at  tlie  following  rate: — 

Fr. 

1871      14,000 

187tJ 28,000 

1880      38,000 


The  canone  paid  to  the  State  being  6000  francs,  tlie 
commune  at  present  derives  a  net  income  from  the  dazio 
of  32,000  francs  =  1280/.  per  annum,  which  sum  will 
doubtless  rise  considerably  at  the  coming  auction  in 
December  1884. 

The  dazio  is  the  main  source  of  revenue  for  Italian  com- 
munes. Bordighera  p*  t^s  several  others  producing 
small  sums,  sueh  as  the  rents  paid  f* )r  the  occupation  of 
the  terreni  arenili  (for  which  see  l*art  II.,  chapter  XIII.) ; 


. 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO   RESIDENTS. 


41 


those  for  the  use  of  four  olive  mills,  and  for  the  working 
of  the  stone  quarries,  which  are  farmed  out  on  the  same 
principle  as  the  dazio  ;  sales  of  timber  on  the  Montenero, 
a  pine  forest  of  over  six  hundred  acres  in  extent ;  and  a 
small  percentage  on  the  direct  Government  taxes. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances  communes  are  expected 
to  meet  their  expenditure  with  resources  of  the  above 
description.  They  can,  however,  under  special  circum- 
stances, increase,  and  even  double  the  direct  taxes.  This 
is  chiefly  done  to  defray  the  expense  of  opening  roads. 
They  can  also  put  on  special  local  taxes  or  rates,  such  as 
the  tax  on  hearths  (fuocatieo)  or  so  much  for  every  house- 
hold, the  tax  on  families  (tassa  di  fa^niglia)  or  so  much 
per  member  of  each  family,  taxes  on  dogs,  servants,  &c. 
These  are  generally  applied  to  the  payment  of  interest 
and  reimbursement  of  loans. 

LEASES   AND   TENANTS. 

Tenants  of  furnished  apartments  pay  no  direct  taxes 
whatever;  those  of  unfurnished  apartments  are  expected 
to  pay  the  local  rates  when  any  exist. 

Furnished  apartments  are  always  let  for  the  season,  or 
from  15th  October  to  31st  May,  rent  being  payable  half 
on  entrance,  or  not  later  than  1st  November,  and  half  on 
31st  January. 

Eents  for  unfurnished  apartments  are  payable  in  advance 
by  three  or  six  months,  according  to  agreement. 

Leases  are  generally  made  for  one,  three,  six,  or  nine 
years.  Sub-letting  for  both  furnished  and  unfurnished 
houses  is  always  legal,  when  not  forbidden  by  a  clause  in 
the  lease. 


) 


42 


BOBDIOHERA  AS  A  WINTER   RESORT. 


WILLS  AND  SUCCESSIONS. 

No  one  may  bequeath  by  will,  away  from  his  direct 
heirs,  more  than  one-half  of  what  he  possesses,  if  he  has 
children,  and  two-thirds  if  he  has  no  children,  but  parents 
or  one  of  them  living  (Civil  Code,  art  805  and  807). 

In  the  case  of  persons  dying  intestate,  property  goes  to 
the  child  or  children,  or  in  default  of  such  to  brothers  and 
sisters,  parents  or  uncles,  and  in  equal  shares  to  all  of  each 
degree  of  relationship. 

Succession,  whether  by  will  or  otherwise,  must  be  notified 
(dmunziaio)  to  the  Keceiver  of  Registry  (Eiceviiore  del 
Eegistro)  at  Ventimiglia  within  three  months  of  the 
decease,  under  pain  of  a  heavy  penalty.  The  duty  is 
regulated  by  the  following  scale:— 


Child ren  find  parents 

Husband  and  wife 

Brotbers 

Uncles  and  nepbews 7 '20 

Cousins t)'(>0 

Otber  relations  to  the  tentli  de:^rec     10-80 
Noo-relations.. 1'- 


1  •  44  per  cent. 

3-60 

6 


)) 


>> 


»f 


English  proprietors  wishing  to  bequeath  their  property 
in  Italy  otherwise  than  to  their  direct  heirs  in  equal  sliares, 
should  do  so  by  a  special  Italian  will,  as  the  proving  and 
registration  of  a  foreign  will  give  rise  to  long  formalities 
and  useless  expense. 

I  have  often  been  asked  how  an  Englisliman  owning 
property  in  Italy  can  bequeath  it  to  any  one  person,  say 
to  one  of  his  children,  in  spite  of  art.  805  of  the  Civil 
Code?  All  lie  lias  to  do  is  to  make  an  Italian  will 
leaving  the  property  to  that  son,  and  adding,  if  he  likes, 


PRACTICAL   HINTS   TO   RESIDENTS. 


43 


I 


that  his  other  children  are  provided  for  in  their  own 
country.  No  question  will  be  raised.  In  fact,  any  will, 
however  irregular  in  the  eyes  of  the  law,  can  be  executed, 
as  long  as  no  interested  party  comes  forward  to  opjiose  it. 
Wills  are  of  two  kinds:  the  secret  will  {testamento 
olografo),  which  must  be  entirely  written,  dated,  and  sub- 
scribed by  the  testator,  without  witnesses,  and  the  public 
will  {testamento  per  atto  di  notaio),  which  must  be  signed 
before  two  notaries,  or  one  notary  and  four  witnesses. 

BANKING  AND  SUNDRIES. 

As  long  as  the  forcible  currency  of  bank  notes  existed  in 
Italy,  i.  e.  from  May  1866  to  April  1883,  gold  was  at  a 
premium,  which  rose  on  one  or  two  occasions  as  high  as 
20  per  cent,  till  the  spring  of  1881,  when  the  passing  of  the 
law  providing  for  a  return  to  payments  in  specie  within  two 
years  caused  it  to  fall  suddenly  to  between  1  and  2  per 

cent. 

In  the  days  of  10  per  cent,  premium,  exchange  on 
foreign  countries  was  high  and  very  variable.  Cheques  on 
London  were  often  cashed  at  as  much  as  28  francs  to  the 
pound  sterling,  This  is  now  at  an  end,  and  exchange  is  at 
par,  save  the  trifling  rise  and  fall  occasioned  by  the 
ordinary  fluctuations  of  offer  and  demand. 

The  pound  sterling,  generally  considered,  for  round  num- 
bers' salco,  as  25  francs,  is  in  reality  worth  Fr.  25-221, 
gold  for  gold,  hence  when  exchange  is  at  25*20  it  may  be 
said  to  be  at  par.  It  will  probably  continue  to  oscillate 
between  the  extreme  limits  of  25*10  and  25-30. 

The  most  advantageous  method  of  transferring  money 
from  England  to  Italy,  is  by  cheques  on  London,  circular 
notes  for  mere  travellers,  and  private  cheques  for  those 


44 


BORDIOHEHA  A8   A  WINTEE   RESORT. 


(    45     ) 


who,  being  residents,  are  known  to  tlieir  bankers.  Cheques 
on  any  place  out  of  London  are  subject  to  a  loss  of  a 
quarter  per  cent.  Bank  of  England  notes  are  worth  less 
than  cheque.s  on  account  of  tlie  risk  attendant  on  their 
transmission,  and  English  gold  is  subject  to  a  still  heavier 

loss. 

Servants  are  engaged  and  paid  by  the  month  ;  they  can, 
however,  leave  at  a  week's  notice. 

In  giving  receipts  for  money  it  is  always  well  to  put  a 
stamp  (marea  da  hollo)  of  five  centimes  on  them  and  sign 
across  it.  This  is  merely  a  matter  of  taxation,  as  the 
presence  or  absence  of  the  stamp  in  no  wtiy  aiKVcts  the 
validity  of  tlie  receipt.  But  tliose  who  sign  receipts  witli- 
out  stamps  are  subject,  if  it  is  discovered,  to  a  heavy  fine, 
the  party  getting  tlie  receipt  going  scot-free.  Hence  it 
foUow^s  that  one  may  always  take  a  receipt,  but  sliould  be 
careful  not  to  give  one,  without  a  stamp. 

Drafts  and  bills  must  be  presented  for  payment  on  tlie  day 
tliey  fall  due.  If  not  paid  thoy  can  be  pr*  .tested  the  day 
following,  and  not  later  than  the  second  day.  Bills  falling 
due  on  Sundays  or  recognised  holidays  are  payable  the  day 
after.  The  holidays  recognised  by  the  State  are  tlie  fol- 
lowing eleven: — New  Year's  Day,  Epiphany  (6th  Jan.), 
Ascension,  Corpus  Domini,  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  (29th 
June),  Assumption  (15th  August),  Nativity  (8th  Sept.), 
All  Saints  (1st  Nov.),  Conception  (8tli  Dec),  Christinas 
(25tli  Dec),  and  tlie  local  patron  saint,  who  for  Bordighera 
is  St.  Ampelio  (14th  May). 


I 


PART   11. 
LOCAL  HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PREHISTORIC   AND   BARBAROUS  TIMES. 

First  attempts  at  colonisation — Origin  of  the  Lignrians — Foundation 
of  Nice  and  Marseilles— Annexation  of  Liguria  by  the  Romans — 
Hannibal  amongst  the  Alps — The  Lacs  des  Merveilles. 

Like  the  rest  of  Italy,  the  Ligurian  coast  was  colonised  by- 
wandering  tribes  from  Asia  Minor  and  Greece.  These 
tribes  overran  an  uninhabited  country,  where  they  chose 
sites  for  tlieir  colonies  as  inclination  or  fancy  prompted 
them,  establishing  themselves,  without  doubt,  exactly  as 
emigrants  have  done  in  all  times,  viz.  where  the  climate 
and  topographical  conditions  most  resembled  the  country 
they  had  left  behind,  and  where  they  could  consequently 
most  nearly  follow  the  agricultural  and  pastoral  occupations 
or  any  others  to  which  their  traditions  led  them. 

The  first  inhabitants  of  Italy  are  known  to  us  from  the 
earliest  historical  days  under  the  names  of  Pelasgi  and 
Ligurians.  These  last  originated  probably  in  some  of  the 
mountainous  countries  of  Asia  Minor,  and  fixed  themselves 
in  Italy  in  the  valleys  of  the  Apennines  and  the  Alps,  and 
in  the  more  undulating  portions  of  Lombardy  and  Pied- 
mont.  They  occupied  the  sea-coast  of  Gaul  and  Italy  from 


46 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


PREHISTORIC   AND   BARBAROUS   TIMES. 


47 


the  Rhone  as  far  as  the  Arno,  a  part  of  upper  Italy  and 
the  coasts  of  tlie  Adriatic,  where  we  find  traces  of  them 
in  the  name  o^Libumia,  which  is  another  form  of  Liguria  ; 
whilst  without  doubt  they  spread  themselves  also  along 
the  entire  chain  of  the  Apennines  into  the  very  heart  of 

the  peninsula. 

Virgil  mentions  the  Ligurians  amongst  those  who  gave 
a  favourable  reception  to  iEneas  on  his  landing.  In  the 
list  of  tlie  tribes  which  united  with  the  Trojans  in  their 
conflict  with  the  Kutuli,  we  find  the  reference  :  — 

"  ISToD  e<:;o  te,  Ligtinim  ductor,  fortissime  bello, 
transierim,  Cjcoe  .  .  ."  * 

But  this  people  were  held  in  very  slight  esteem  by  the 

Romans.     They  seem  indeed  always  to  have  borne  a  luid 

reputation  for  intrigue  and  duplicity,  and  this  is  shown 

us  very  clearly  by  some  further  passages  in  the  iEneid, 

where  Cycnus,  son  of  Stenelus  or  Aunus,  the  king  of  the 

Ligurians  (just  referred  to)  is  painted  in  colours  far  from 

flattering  to  that  people  :— 

"  Apenninicolc'B  bellator  filius  Aimi, 
band  Ligiirum  extremus  dum  fallere  fata  sinel):iiit."t— 

jEneid,  Bouk  XL,  line  700. 


*  Mmid,  Book  X.  line  185  :— 

*' Nor  iimsl   I  ointt  thee,  0  Cycims,  v.  limit  leader  of  the  Liiruriaiis 

in  vv;ir."    In  Anthon's  Fjr//iYthe  reaiUn  nm,  riuyra  .   .   ."    ryciuis 

was  a  monarch  of  the  Ligurians,  t'ciiUy  att-K  h«d  t«>  i'haeton,  and  wlio  pinoJ 

away  in  sorrow  at  the  latter's  untimely  end  until  Ih    clian^ed   into  a 

«wan.— A.  C.  D. 

f  "  .  .  .  .  The  warlike  son  of  the  Apennine-haunting  Annus,  not  the  last 
of  the  Ligurians,  as  long  as  the  fates  permitted  (h;ceiving."  Anthon  adds  in 
a  note,  "The  Ligurians  had  a  very  bad  repntation  for  treachery  and  fiaud." 

—A.  c.  a 

Dryden's   translation   of  this   verse    is   also   peculiarly    sf\.>r.'    uiK>n    the 

Ligurian  ratst : 

"A  true  Liguriin,  horn  fn  cheat." 


"  Vane  Ligiis,  frustraque  animis  elate  siiperbis, 
nequidquam  patrias  tenasti  lubricus  artes  ; 
nee  fraus  te  incolumem  fallaci  perferet  Auno."  *— 

^neid,  Book  XL,  line  715. 

The  Ligurians,  no  doubt,  were  essentially  a  race  of 
mountaineers ;  the  name  even  seems  to  have  had  an  iden- 
tical meaning  and  served  to  distinguish  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Alps  and  the  Apennines  from  the  Pelasgi  or  inhabitants 
of  the  plains.  However,  though  this  derivation  of  the 
word  is  generally  admitted,  its  etymology  is  far  from  being 
clearly  established. 

According  to  some,  ligur  and  ligus  are  derived  from  two 
words  of  the  ancient  language  of  the  Osci,  lix,  lids,  water 
(from  whence  the  Latin  limtus,  boiled),  and  gur  or  gom, 
high  or  mountainous.  The  Ligurians,  therefore,  would  be 
the  "  Mountaineers  hy  the  Sea  Coastr  According  to  others, 
these  words  come  from  "Lycia"  or  **Milyas,"  the  name 
of  a  little  mountainous  country  in  the  south  of  Asia  Minor, 
colonised  in  very  ancient  times  by  the  Greeks,  and  from 
whence  the  Ligurians  may  have  migrated.  The  fact  re- 
lated by  Herodotus,  that  a  tribe  of  the  Lycians  bore  the 
name  of  "  Termilii"  seems  to  give  weight  to  this  hypo- 
thesis, for  we  meet  again  a  similar  name  in  Ligures  Intemelii 
or  Intermelii,^  But  we  must  not  attach  too  much  import- 
ance to  a  detail  of  this  kind,  bearing  in  mind  that  a  great 
number  of  names  from  Asia  Minor  and  Greece  are  found 

*  "  *  Vain  fool  and  coward  !  *  said  the  lofty  maid ; 

'  caught  in  the  train  which  thou  thyself  hast  laid! 
on  others  practise  thy  Ligurian  arts  : 
thin  stratagems  and  tricks  of  little  hearts 
are  lost  on  me :  nor  shalt  thou  safe  retire 
with  vaunting  lies  to  thy  fallacious  sire  ! '  " 

Dry  den's  Translation. 

t  Celesia :  Dell'  antichissimo  Idioma  del  Liguri. 


I 


48 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


I 


PREHISTORIC   AND   BARBAROUS   TIMES. 


49 


reproduced  in  Italy,  owing  to  the  fact  of  all  the  early 
colonies  being  of  Greek  origin. 

There  is,  however,  another  somewhat  plausible  and  at- 
tractive derivation,  altliough  utterly  unsupported  by  proof, 
and  that  is  one  which  derives  Urjus  from  the  Greek  adjec- 
tive having  the  same  spelling.  Tliose  who  hold  this  theory 
are  influenced,  in  fact,  by  the  relation  which  exists  between 
ligur  and  %«s,  and  \iyv<i  and  \iyvp6<;y  which  is  the  more 
remarkable,  as  the  two  words  present  the  same  change  of 
termination.  But  Xi.yv^  signifies  clear,  harmonious,  shrill, 
when  speaking  of  sounds,  and  one  cannot  help  asking  how 
this  adjective  could  become  the  name  of  a  people  ?  How- 
ever it  is  possible,  I  do  not  say  probable,  tliat  the  first 
chief  of  the  tribe  was  distinguished  by  a  strong,  harmonious 
voice,  and  that  he  received  in  consequence  the  surname  of 
Xt7v? ;  it  is  possible,  also,  the  first  hordes  of  the  Ligurians 
who  established  themselves  in  the  mountainous  countries 
adopted  the  horn  for  the  transmission  of  their  signals  from 
one  height  to  anotlier,  and  that  the  surrounding  people 
gave  them  the  name  of  Xt7i/pe«?,  or,  as  wo  should  translate 
it,  "  Eorn-Mmvers.^* 

However  imaginative  or  even  fantastical  this  view 
may  appear,  we  must  at  least  acknowledge  that  it  is 
singularly  eoiifirined  by  a  quaint  custom  of  the  modern 
inhabitants  of  the  Alps  and  the  Apennines,  which  con- 
sists in  awakening  the  echoes  of  the  mountains,  on 
the  eve  of  St.  John  the  Baptist,  by  blowing  cow-horns! 
the  prolonged  and  monotonous  sounds  from  which  are 
answered  from  one  village  to  anotlier,  and  from  the  valleys 
to  the  heights.  This  custom,  which  has  no  apparent 
motive  or  any  Christian  or  Pagan  tradition  to  explain  it, 
may  perchance  be  a  reminiscence  of  the  national  horns 


which  gave  the  Ligurians  their  name  in  the  earliest  days 
of  tlieir  history. 

It  is  not  possible  for  the  historian  to  make  any  but  the 
slightest  conjectures  as  to  the  primitive  inhabitants  who 
occupied  this  coast  before  the  Ligurian  immigration. 
Bone  caverns  undoubtedly  exist  in  this  part  of  Italy,  a 
human  skeleton  having  been  discovered  by  Dr.  Kiviere 
some  few  years  ago  in  one  of  the  caves  of  the  Kochers- 
Eouges  near  Mentone,  which  was  removed  to  Paris.  If 
these  remains  were  well  authenticated,  they  would  prove 
that  this  country  was  inhabited  in  the  Stone  Age ;  but 
it  is  at  least  probable  that  so  bright  and  attractive  a 
coast,  when  joined  to  so  charming  and  perfect  a  climate, 
would  not  be  long  in  finding  favour  in  the  eyes  of  the  very 
earliest  colonists. 

Some  remains  of  Cyclopean  or  Pelasgic  constructions 
are  found  occasionally  along  the  mountain  range,  notably 
on  the  plateau  which  forms  the  summit  of  Mont  Agel 
above  Monaco;  and  the  old  tradition  has  it  that  the 
mythological  explorer  Hercules,  after  having  forced  the 
passage  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  founded  the  town  of  Monaco, 
which  took  the  name  of  Portus  Herculis  Monoeei ;  Monoe- 
cus,  /jLovoLfco<;  (signifying  an  isolated  house)  very  well 
expresses  the  first  impression  of  the  Rock  of  Monaco  as 
seen  from  the  surrounding  heights ;  but  it  is  probable  that 
the  massive  and  enormous  construction  on  the  Agel  was 
really  the  primitive  Monoecus,  mentioned  also  as  the 
Aggeres  Al^ini  by  several  Latin  authors : 

"...  Aggeribus  alpinis  atque  arce  Monoeei 
Descendens." 

Virgil,  JEneidf  Book  VI. 

"  Descending  from  the  rugged  Alps  and  from  the  rock  of  Monaco." 

B 


60 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


PREHLSTOEIC   AND    BARBAROUS   TIMES. 


51 


Ml: 


At  the  dawn  of  historic  times  the  Ligurian  coast  was 
inhabited  by  two  peoples,  entirely  different  from  each 
other,  although  equally  of  Greek  origin,  and  speaking 
without  doubt  dialects  derived  from  the  same  language. 

One  of  these,  the  Ligurians,  divided  into  tribes,  mainly 
occupied  the  mountains,  but  they  possessed  also  establish- 
ments on  the  seashore.  The  three  most  important  of  these 
primitive  ports  were  (1)  that  of  the  Ligures  Intemelii, 
which  the  Komans  called  Alpium  Intemelium,  or  Inte- 
melium  of  the  Hills,  now  called  VeniimigUa ;  (2)  that  of 
the  Ligures  Ingaimi,  which  became  Alpium  Ingaunon,  the 
modern  Alhenga ;  and  (3)  that  of  the  Ligures  Genuati,  now 
the  important  city  of  Genoa, 

The  other,  the  Phocaeans,  a  warlike  but  also  a  trading 

people  emigrated  from  the  mountainous  country  which 

surrounds  Mount  Parnassus,  had  thriving  colonies  both  in 

Corsica  and  on  the  coast  of  Provence,  on  which  latter  they 

founded  Marseilles  about  600  years  B.C.    They  have  equally 

the  credit  of  founding  Nice  (from  i/t/c7?,  victory),  but  the 

archaeologists  are  not  agreed  upon  the  period  of  this  event. 

According,    however,   to    the    most    generally    received 

opinion,  this  town  was  not  founded  until  the  year  350  B.C., 

and  then  by  colonists  from  the  Phocaean  settlement  at 

Marseilles;  but,  according  to  others,  we  must  go  back 

to  the  year  B.C.  536,  and  seek  the  origin  of  Nice  in  a 

migration  of  the  inhabitants  of  Alalia,  a  powerful  Phocaean 

colony  on  the  north-west  coast  of  Corsica  (near  the  site 

of  the  modern  town  of  Algajola),  who,  harassed  by  the 

incursions  of  the  Carthaginians,  decided  to  change  their 

country.* 

*  Memoire  stir  les  Origines  de  Nicej  a  paper  read  by  M.  Brun,  architect 
It  the  Scientific  Congress  of  France,  held  at  Nice  in  1866. 


1 


Whatever  may  be  truth  in  this  respect,  Nice  was  a 
dependent  of  Marseilles  at  the  time  when  the  Romans 
first  came  into  direct  contact  with  the  Phocaean  re- 
public. Similarity  of  race,  language,  and  customs  helped 
inevitably  towards  a  fusion  of  the  two  colonies,  but  above 
all  the  presence  of  a  common  enemy,  the  Ligurians,  who 
saw  with  anything  but  a  favourable  eye  these  strangers 
establishing  themselves  on  their  coast.  This  latter  people 
struggled  long  and  courageously  against  the  stream  of  the 
Eoman  power,  the  first  influx  of  which  took  place  in  the 
year  237  B.C.  This  was  under  the  command  of  Consul 
Sempronius  Graccus  and  his  successor  Cornelius  Lentulus, 
who,  according  to  certain  historians,  massacred  23,000 
Ligurians  and  took  5000  prisoners ;  but  these  figures  are 
probably  exaggerated. 

In  234  B.C.  Fabius  ]\raximus  attacked  the  Eastern  Ligu- 
rians, and  subdued  all  the  country  between  the  Arno  and 
the  Magra,  whilst  a  few  years  later,  viz.  210  B.C.,  Scipio 
Africanus,  returning  to  Spain  at  the  head  of  a  powerful 
force  to  attack  Asdrubal  (the  second  Punic  war),  put  into 
Portus  Herculis  (or  IMonaco)  or  perhaps  into  Villa  Franca. 
The  view  of  the  smiling  hills  of  Liguria  no  doubt  excited 
the  covetousness  of  his  troops  at  that  time,  for  not  long 
afterwards  (200  years  B.C.)  the  republic  entered  upon  a 
war  of  extermination  against  the  Ligurians.  The  Consuls 
Appius  Claudius  and  Marcus  Sempronius  gained  a  series 
of  bloody  victories  in  this  campaign,  and  erected  a  fortress 
on  Mont  Magliocca,  above  Ventimiglia,  whose  ruins  still 
bear  the  name  of  Castel  d'Ai:)pio.  Rome  had,  however, 
arother  and  more  important  motive  in  attacking  these 
mountaineers.  Mago,  brother  of  Hannibal,  after  having 
sacked  Genoa  in  204  B.C.,  landed  in  Liguria  at  the  head 


LOCAL  HISTOEY. 


of  au  army,  and  established  his  head-quarters  at  Savo  (or 
Savona).  He  occupied  the  eoiiiitry  for  about  two  years, 
and  the  Ingauni  (or  inhabitants  of  the  town  now  called 
Albenga)  declared  themselves  his  allies;  but  lie  retired  when 
hostilities  were  commenced  against  him  by  tlie  Romans. 

This  desperate  struggle  was  not  ended  until  the  Ligu- 
rians  made  their  definite  submission  to  the  Consul  C. 
Papiriiis  Carbo  in  the  year  163  B.C.  They  continued, 
however,  to  war  against  the  Marseillais  until  153  B.C., 
when  tlie  Phocaean  Republic  was  compelled  to  invoke 
against  them  the  aid  and  arms  of  Rome.  This  measure, 
whether  dictated  by  imminent  danger  or  by  a  clever 
calculation,  had,  as  an  effect,  the  preservation  of  the 
autonomy  of  the  Phocaean  Republic  by  making  Rome  its 
ally,  and  later  on,  the  opening  to  Ctesar's  victorious 
le*i;ions  of  the  coast  road  to  Gaul. 

In  the  year  118  B.C.  Liguria  was  finally  annexed  to  the 
Roman  territory,  and  constituted  a  province,  the  prefect 
of  which  resided  at  "  Cemenelium" *  a  town  probably 
founded  a  little  before,  and  perhaps  by  the  Consul  Carbo, 
on  the  liigh  land  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  to  the  north 
of  Nice.  This  locality  bears  even  at  the  present  day  the 
name  of  Cirniez,  but  it  only  preserves,  as  a  memento  of  its 
once  having  been  the  chief  city  of  a  Roman  province,  a 
rather  small  but  well-preserved  amphitheatre  and  some 
insignificant  ruins. 

The  only  remarkable  event  connected  with  Roman 
history  in  which  Liguria  played  any  part,  prior  to  its 
annexation,  other  than  those  of  wliich  I  am  about  to  speak, 
was  the  passage  of  Hannibal,  about  the  year  218  B.C. 


*  K4fifp\€ov  in  Strabo.     We  may  infer  that  this  ui.i<l  is  a  contraction  of 
icfVfi'  tAiov,  town  of  Monts  Cemtoes,  Cemenc  being  a  word  of  Celtic  origin. 


PREHISTORIC   AND   BARBAROUS   TIMES. 


53 


y 


It  was  after  the  taking  of  Saguntum,  which  led  to  the 
breaking  out  of  the  second  Punic  war,  that  Hannibal  con- 
ceived the  daring  project  of  attacking  the  Romans  in  their 
own  country,  and  moving  his  army  by  land. 

He  crossed  the  Pyrenees,  overran  Gascony  and  Lan- 
guedoc,  passed  the  Rhone,  and  penetrated  into  Italy  by 
crossing  the  Alps,  but  we  are  ignorant  at  ^vhat  point  he 
effected  the  passage  over  the  mountains. 

The  most  generally  accepted  view,  however,  is  that  which 
attributes  to  him  the  same  route  followed  since  by  Charle- 
magne, Charles  V.,  Francis  I.,  Napoleon,  and  all  the  other 
conquerors  of  Italy,  viz.  either  by  the  Mont  Cenis  or  the 
Great  St.  Bernard.     But  one  is  permitted  to  have  doubts 

on  this  point. 

Those  armies  which  invaded  Italy  in  the  Middle  Ages 
and  in  modern  times  all  came  from  the  iiorth,  and  they 
naturally  approached  the  mountains  by  the  most  con- 
venient and  best-known  valleys,  and  at  the  same  time 
those  nearest  to  their  point  of  departure.  Hannibal,  on 
the  contrary,  came  from  the  south.  He  had  passed  the 
Rhone  in  the  plains  of  Lower  Languedoc,  to  the  south  of 
the  Cevennos ;  and  such  being  the  case,  one  naturally  asks 
why  he  should  march  up  to  the  interior  of  transalpine 
Gaul  in  order  to  make  a  circuit  by  Savoy  or  Switzerland  ? 
Is  it  not  much  more  natural  to  suppose  that  he  would  follow 
the  coast  until  he  came  upon  the  broad  valleys  of  the  Var 
or  the  Roya,  which  would  conduct  him,  the  first  by  the 
Tinee  over  the  Col  de  Frema-Muorta,  and  the  second 
over  the  Col  di  Tenda  ? 

This  was  evidently  the  shortest  and  most  practical  route 
for  him ;  for,  given  an  utter  absence  of  roads  or  even  of 
paths,  the  easiest  and  most  direct  mode  of  getting  from 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


the  south  of  Gaul  into  Upper  Italy  was,  without  doubt,  by 
the  valley  of  the  Var  and  its  affluent  the  Tinee,  the  Col 
de  Frema-Miiorta,  and  the  valley  of  Gesso  (Valdieri),  to 
the  plains  of  Piedmont,  whilst  the  valley  of  the  Koya,  the 
Col  di  Tenda,  and  the  descent  by  the  gorge  of  Limonetto 
into  the  valley  of  Vermenagna,  offer  facilities  hardly  less 
convenient. 

Some  may,  however,  object  that  the  presence  of  P.  Cor- 
nelius Scipio  (father  of  Africanus)  at  the  mouths  of  the 
Ehone,  at  the  head  of  an  army  of  24,000  men,  who  had 
been  sent  to  contest  his  passage,  would  be  sufficient  to 
decide  Hannibal  to  turn  away  from  the  coast.  But  this 
objection  falls  to  the  ground  when  we  remember  tliat 
Scipio  nt  vcr  came  across  the  Carthaginians  in  Provence  at 
all ;  for  at  the  very  moment  he  had  made  arrangements  to 
disembark  his  troops,  he  learnt  tliat  Hannibal  had  crossed 
the  Ehone,  and  was  already  marching  towards  tlie  Alps ; 
so  there  was  nothing  left  for  tlie  former  but  to  follow  him 
as  speedily  as  possible. 

Whatever  may  be  thq  actual  fact,*  we  may  consider  this 
at  least  as  certain,  tliat  at  any  rate  one  division  of  tlie 
Carthaginian  army,  if  not  Hannibal  himself,  passed  by  the 
valley  of  Tenda.  The  memory  of  the  great  commander 
still  remains  engi-aven  in  tlie  popular  traditions,  just 
as  it  did  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Barletta,  where 
was  fought  the  battle  of  Canna?  (which  even  now  bears 
the  name  of  Ca7njpo  di  Sangue,  or  Field   of   Blood); 

•  To  those  who  feel  an  interest  on  this  point,  viz.  the  exact  route  taken,  it 
may  be  worth  while  suggesting  that  they  should  get  a  good  map  of  Southern 
Europe,  and  linding  Saguntinn,  now  the  modern  town  of  Murviedro,  on  the 
sea  coast  ot'Catalonia,  wliiih  was  the  point  of  Hannibal's  departure,  carefully 
study  the  two  routes,  and  having  read  the  arguments  in  favour  of  either, 
endeavour  to  form  an  opinion  for  themselves.— A.  C.  D. 


w 


PREHISTORIC   AND   BARBAROUS  TIMES. 


55 


even  now  in  the  valley  of  the  Roya  the  mountaineers 
still  recount  to  each  other,  as  they  watch  their  grazing 
flocks,  the  passage  of  the  African  legions,  and  speak  with 
reverence  and  respect  the  name  of  that  great  leader. 

The  valley  of  Tenda,  or  rather  one  of  its  offshoots, 
presents  a  natural  phenomenon  which  for  a  long  time  was 
considered  a  proof  that  the  Carthaginians  passed  along 

this  road. 

Several  little  lakes  occupy  the  bottom  of  an  amphi- 
theatre, which  terminates  a  secondary  gorge,  some  hours 
above  the  ancient  convent  of  St.  Dalmas.     The  perpen- 
dicular   rocks    which    surround    this    amphitheatre    are 
covered  with  extraordinary  figures  which  are  thought  to 
have  been  carved  by  the  hand  of  man.     Nearly  all  the 
historians  and  arch^ologists  of  the  country  have  pointed 
out  these  designs  as  hieroglyphics  engraved  by  Hannibal's 
soldiers;   but   recent   investigations   have    unmistakably 
shown  that  these  outlines  left  on  the  smooth  surface  of 
the   rock  were   formed   by   the   flints  which    a    glacier 
dragged  with  it  as  it  progressed  century  after  century 

down  the  valley. 

The  Lacs  des  Merveilles  then  are  nothing  more  than  a 
geological  curiosity ;  for  it  is  indeed  too  improbable  to 
believe  that  the  Carthaginians,  with  the  army  of  Scipio 
in  their  rear,  would  waste  their  time  cutting  out  figures 
on  the  rocks  of  a  hill  side,  difiicult  of  access  and  some 
distance  from  their  route ! 


(   56   ) 


CHAPTER  II. 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


Adminiatrative  organisation — The  Aurelian  Way  :  its  construction  and 
its  route — The  trophy  of  Augustus— Building  of  Turbia— Geo- 
graphical frontier — Roman  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood . 

After  the  annexation  of  Liguria  to  the  territory  of  the 
Republic  in  the  year  118  B.C.,  the  passage  of  the  Roman 
legions  who  entered  into  Southern  Gaul,  to  take  part  in 
the  campaign  against  the  Cimbri  and  the  Teutons,  ter- 
minated in  102  B.C.  by  the  victory  of  Marius  at  Aix 
in  ^Provence,  contributed  to  civilise  the  Ligurians  and 
introduce  Roman  colonisation  along  the  whole  length  of 
the  coast.  Progress  in  this  direction  was  rapid,  for 
in  the  year  89  B.C.  the  Ligurians  were  included  amongst 
those  recently  aimexed  people  to  whom  the  Pompeian  law 
granted  the  Jus  Laiinum;  the  Jus  Eomanum  not,  how- 
ever, being  given  them  until  a  century  later,  in  the 
reign  of  Nero.  The  Jus  Latinum  conferred  the  rights 
of  holding  property,  of  disposing  of  it  by  will,  and 
carrying  on  business,  but  it  did  not  comprehend,  as 
did  the  Jus  Bommimnj  either  connuMum  or  tlie  pairia 
potestas. 

But  this  enfranehisement  in  the  first  case,  as  in  the 
second,  was  only  given  to  those  territories  which  officially 
were  recognised  as  part  of  the  Roman  Republic:  Nice  aud 
Antibes,  as  belonging  to  the  Phocaean  Republic,  received 
no  benefit  from  it. 

At  tlie  time  of  Augustus,  Liguria  formed  the  seventh  of 
the  ten  provinces  of  Gaul ;  it  extended  along  the  coast 


I 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


67 


westward  from  Cemenelium  (or  Cimiez)  and  was  ad- 
ministered by  a  President,  the  inhabitants  of  the  mountain 
districts,  still  classified  as  **  barbarians,"  being  under  the 
command  of  a  prefect  of  the  Equestrian  order. 

The  period  of  the  Roman  dominion  in  Liguria,  from  its 
annexation  to  the  dismemberment  of  the  empire,  under 
the  pressure  of  the  barbaric  invasion,  presents  to  us  only 
two  events  of  note,  viz.,  the  opening  of  the  Aurelian  Way, 
and  the  construction  of  the  monument  at  Turbia. 

Starting  from  Rome  by  the  Porta  Janiculensis,  after- 
wards called  the  Forta  Aurelia,  the  great  coast  road 
ran  by  the  Etruscan  and  Ligurian  coasts,  passing  through 
the  towns  of  Pisa  and  Genoa  as  far  as  Ceynenelium ;  from 
whence,  some  vears  later,  it  was  continued  to  the  Forum 
Julii  (now  called  Frejus),  a  flourishing  town  to  the  east 
of  the  Esterel,  founded  in  the  year  49  B.C.  by  a  lieutenant 
of  Julius  Caesar.  Ultimately  it  was  continued  as  far  as 
Aries.  The  entire  length  of  this  road  constituted  the  Via 
Aurelia  J  but  that  portion  which  traversed  Liguria  is  better 
known  by  the  special  title  of  the  Via  Aurelia  Mmilia, 

We  are  ignorant  of  the  precise  date  of  the  opening  of 
this  great  work,  the  only  one  of  the  twelve  great  Roman 
roads  which  ci'ossed  the  limits  of  Italy ;  but  the  trade 
which  sprung  up  between  the  Romans  and  their  allies  the 
Phocaeans  of  Marseilles  and  the  coast  of  Provence,  and 
the  military  transports,  necessitated  by  the  campaigns  of 
Caesar  in  Gaul,  during  the  century  previous  to  the 
Christian  era,  had  without  doubt  caused  the  construction 
of  this  road,  at  least  as  far  as  Cemenelium,  shortly  after 
the  constitution  of  the  province.  All  we  know  definitely  is 
that  the  section  from  Rome  to  Vado  was  constructed  by 
the  order  of  Scaurus  ^milius,  consul  at  the  period   of 


58 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


59 


the  incorporation  of  Liguria  into  the  territory  of  the 

Roman  Republic. 

The  Roman  roads  were  remarkable  for  the  solidity  of 
their  construction.  They  were  not,  however,  broader 
than  about  16i  feet  (5  metres),  that  is,  less  tliau  the 
ordinary  provincial  roads  in  the  present  day ;  but  this 
breadth  was  fully  sufficient  for  all  the  wants  of  the 

period. 

Vehicles  were  rare  in  the  olden  days ;  people  travelled 
on  horseback,  and  the  entire  transport  of  merchandise 
was  effected  on  the  backs  of  mules. 

The  system  adopted  by  the  Romans  in  the  construction 
of  these  roads  was  copied,  it  is  said,  from  the  Cartha- 
ginians.    On  the  gremiim    or    solid   bed   obtained   by 
digging  (frequently  to  a  considerable  depth),  they  spread  a 
bed  or  layer  of  broken  stones,  this  is  the  daiumen  ;  after 
this  came  the  rudm,  that  is,  a  layer  of  concrete  formed 
of  large  pebbles ;  then  the  nnelmis,  another  bed  of  concrete, 
formed  of  small  pebbles,  and  finally  the  pavhnentum,  or  the 
pavement.     If  tlien  the  Aurelian  Way  was  so  solidly  and 
durably  constructed,  it  seems  strange  that  we  are  not  able 
to  find  any  trace  whatever  of  it  in  these  parts.  It  is  true  that 
its  maintenance  by  the  Roman  administration  has  been 
interrupted  for  more  than  fifteen  centuries,  during  which 
period  Time  has  pursued,  without  any  intermission,  his  slow 
but  inexorable  work  of  destruction.    It  is  true  that  the 
configuration  of  the  country  has  been  frequently  modified 
by  landslips,  by  floods,  and  perhaps  even  by  volcanic 
eruptions ;  and  that  the  old  road  has  been  entirely  engulfed 
in  many  places ;  and  finally,  that  in  the  middle  ages,  the 
little  confederated  states,  always  at  war  with  each  other, 
were  interested  (from  the  strategic  point  of  view  of  the 


period)  far  more  in  interrupting  than  in  maintaining  the 
means  of  communication. 

In  the  days  of  Dante,  this  wonderful  road  was  already 
little  more  than  a  recollection,  as  we  learn  from  the 
following  passage  in  his  "  Purgatorio  "  : 

"  Non  divenimmo  intanto  a  pife  del  monte, 
quivi  trovammo  la  roccia  si  erta, 
che  indarno  vi  sarien  le  gambe  pronte. 

Tra  Lerici  e  Turbia,  la  piu  diserta 

la  piu  rotta  ruina  h  una  scala, 
verso  di  quella,  age  vole  ed  aperta." 

Purgatorio  III.  46. 

«...  Meanwhile  we  had  arrived 
far  as  the  mountain  foot,  and  there  the  rock 
found  of  so  steep  ascent  that  nimblest  steps 
to  climb  it  had  been  vain.     The  most  remote, 
most  wild,  untrodden  path,  in  all  the  tract 
'twixt  Lerici  and  Turbia  were  to  this, 
a  ladder  easy  and  of  access  free." 

Carey's  Translation. 

In  spite,  however,  of  these  considerations,  one  might 
reasonably  have  expected  to  find,  even  in  the  present  day, 
some  remains  of  the  Aurelian  Way,  if  it  had  been  con- 
structed under  the  same  conditions  as  the  other  Roman 
roads  of  the  first  class.  But,  confronted  by  the  fact  that 
nowhere  do  we  find  any  signs  of  it,  one  is  tempted  to  ask 
if  this  road,  especially  laid  out  with  a  view  to  the  trans- 
port of  troops,  and  in  a  far  country  hardly  yet  conquered, 
could  really  have  been  the  object  of  the  care  and  expense 
which  the  Roman  engineers  lavished  on  those  in  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood  of  the  metropolis  ? 

As  to  the  route  of  the  Aurelian  Way  as  it  traversed 


60 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


Lignria,  it  is  probable  that  it  was  almost  identical  with 
the  old  Cornice  Koad,  which  was  after  all  but  the  old 
Roman  road  repaired,  when,  towards  the  end  of  mediaeval 
times,  the  various  peoples  began  to  lose  their  dread  of  easy 
communications.  Some  considerable  modifications  were 
however  necessary  at  certain  jwints,  for  the  towns  of  the 
middle  ages  were  not  always  built  on  the  same  sites  as  the 
Roman  and  Ligurian  towns  served  by  the  Aurelian  Way. 
It  is,  however,  certain  that  tliis  road  passed  by  Cemenelium 
by  Turbia,  by  Alhintemelhuu  (Ventimiglia),  and  by 
Maiuta  (San  Remo).  As  to  its  passage  through  the  can- 
ton of  Bordighera,  we  can  but  make  conjectures.  Tliis 
part  of  the  coast,  or  just  about  here,  was  undoubtedly 
uninhabited  at  the  period  in  question,  for  the  Roman 
village  of  Scepe,  where  is  now  situated  the  modern  Sasso, 
was  in  all  probability  posterior  to  the  constniction  of 
the  Aurelian  Way.  That  being  so,  and  the  flatness  of  the 
shore  offering  no  serious  difficulty  to  the  carrying  out  of 
the  road,  we  have  no  reason  whatever  for  questioning  the 
identity  of  the  route  with  that  of  the  road  of  mediaeval  times 
which  still  bears  in  our  neiglibourhood  the  name  of  the 
Strada  Bomana. 

The  era  of  peace  and  prosperity  wliich  commenced  im- 
mediately upon  the  proclamation  of  the  Empire  was  more 
quickly  followed  by  substantial  benefits  in  Liguria  than 
in  many  otlier  provinces,  thanks  to  the  monument  at 
Turbia,  whicli  flattered  the  vanity  of  Augustus,  and 
drew  his  favours  to  the  province  in  which  his  troj)hy  was 
situated. 

The  battle  of  Actium,  which  put  an  end  to  the 
Republic,  was  fought  on  the  2nd  September,  31  B.C. 
Octavius  himself  seized  tlie  reins  of  power  at  the  com- 


THE   ROMxVN   PROVINCE. 


61 


( 


mencement  of  the  following  year,  as  Consul  and  Tribune, 
but  it  was  not  until  three  years  later,  after  the  death  of 
Marcus  Aurelius  and  the  taking  of  Alexandria,  in  the 
year  27  B.C.,  that  the  Senate  accorded  him  the  titles  of 
Augustus  and  Emperor.  These  particulars  are  important, 
as  they  show  us,  sufiiciently  nearly,  the  date  which  we 
may  take  as  the  year  when  the  trophy  was  erected. 

The  Senate  decreed  to  Octavius,  at  the  same  time  that 
they  elected  him  Emperor,  the  honour  of  a  public  tri- 
umph.   Augustus  refused,  and  it  was  decided  to  substitute 
a   monumental   tropliy   for   the    proposed  entry.     Many 
authors   speak   of    this   monument:    they   have   written 
about  it,  and  I  give,  on  the  following  page,  a  copy  of  the 
inscription   engraved   upon  it,   but  none  of  them  make 
any   allusion    to    its    situation,    otherwise   than   in  the 
vaguest  manner  possible,  viz.  "  on  the  confines  of  Italy, 
and    in    summa   Alper     The    result    therefore    of  this 
omission  is,  that   three  Roman  erections   have  disputed 
the  honour  of  being  the  trophy  of  Augustus :  the  Tri- 
umphal Arch  of   Aosta,  that  of   Susa,  and   the  ruin  of 
Turbia ;  but   it   is   conclusively  proved    at   the   present 
time  that  the  last  is  the  correct  one. 

The  Arch  at  Aosta  is  in  a  much  later  style  than  that  of 
the  century  of  Augustus,  and  the  remains  of  the  inscrip- 
tion do  not  correspond  in  an^  degree  v/hatever  with  the 
dedication  preserved  to  us  by  Pliny;  the  arch  at  Susa 
bears  an  inscription  which  is  still  legible  and  in  some  re- 
spects resembles  that  of  the  trophy,  but  it  states  that  it 
was  raise  I  in  honour  of  the  Romans  by  their  ally.  King 
Cottius,  and  was  erected  in  the  year  744  from  the  build- 
ing of  Rome,  whilst  the  trophy  at  Turbia,  according  to 
Pliny,  dates  from  the  year  749. 


62 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


63 


The  following  is  the  inscription  as  given  by  Pliny  : — 

IMP.  CAES.  DIVI.  F.  AVGVSTO. 

PONT.  MAX. 

IMP.  XIIII.  TRIBVNIC.  POTEST.  XYII. 

QVOD  EJV8  DVCTV   AV8PICIISQVE 

GENTE8   ALl'INiE   OMNES 

q\M  A  MARE  SVPERO   AD   INFERVM 

PERT  I  NEB  A IJT 

8VB   IMPERIVM    P.    K. 

REDACTiE   8VNT. 

0ENTE8  ALPIN^E   DEVICT.E 

TRIVMPTLINI.   CAMVNI.    VENONT-"" '. 

ISNARCI.    DUEVNL    XAYNES.    FOC\>Air.S. 

VINDELICORVM   OENTES  QVATVOR. 

CONSVANETES.   VIRVCENATES.   Llf'ATES.    CATENATES. 

ABISONTES   EVGVSCI.   8VANETES. 

CALVCONE?.    BRIXENTES.   LEPOXTlL    VI DERI. 

KAKTVATE8.   SEDVNI.    VERAGRI.    S  ALA  SSI. 

ACITAVONES.    MEDVLLI.    VllM. 

CATVRIGES.   BRIGIANL   SOOOKTII.    EBHODVNTII. 

NEMALONES.    EDENATES.    EsVLlANI. 

VEAMINI.  oallitj:.  trivllati. 

ECTINI.    VEECVNM.    EGVrrVUI. 
KEMEKTVRI.   ORATELLI.   NERVSI.    VELAVXr. 

8VETBI. 

NON    .SVXT   ADJECT. E 

COTTIAN.E   CIVITATES    XII 

qVM   NON  FVEBITXT   H0STIEE8 

ITEM   ATTR I B V T.E    M  V X I ( •  I IM  I s 

LEGE   POMPEIA.* 

If  we  complete  the  abridged  words  of  this  dedication,  we 
find  the  sentence  runs  as  follows : 

"Imperatori  C»sari,  divi  filio,  Aiii!iisto,  pontifici  maximo  (anno) 
imperii    XIV.,    tribunitia3     potestatia     XVII.    scnatua    i>oiJulusqiie 


I    j 


romanus. 


'» 


•  I  am  indebted  for  the  text  of  the  above,  and  also  fur  a  mass  of  details 
connected  with  this  monument,  to  a  very  learned  paj^T  n.vl  l.y  M.  A.  Carlone 
at  the  Scientific  Congress  of  Fran<v>,  held  at  Nice  in  1866. 


The  inscription  may  be  translated  as  follows : 

"  To  the  Emperor  Cc'esar  Augustus,  son  of  a  divine  father,  sovereign 
Pontifif,  in  the  14th  year  of  his  empire  and  the  17th  of  his  rule  as 
Tribune,  the  Senate  and  people  of  Kome ;  because  under  his  leadership 
and  auspices,  all  the  Alpine  peoples  who  are  spread  from  the  upper  to 
the  lower  sea  have  been  brought  under  the  dominion  of  the  Koman 
people. 

Conquered  Alpine  peoples  : — (Here  follows  list). 

"  There  are  not  included  amongst  these,  twelve  Cottian  tribes  who 
were  not  hostile  ;  neither  those  (tribes)  which  have  received  municipal 
government  by  the  Pompeian  law." 

The  trophy  was  raised,  or  at  any  rate  dedicated,  in  the 
year  749  of  Eome  or  14  B.C.,  and  it  was  intended  to 
celebrate  the  submission  of  forty-seven  Alpine  tribes 
dwelling  amongst  the  mountains,  from  the  Adriatic  to  the 
Tyrrhenian  sea. 

Savants  have  been  engaged  for  centuries  in  endeavouring 
to  identify  the  tribes  whose  names  are  set  forth  on  the 
trophy,  but  their  efforts  have  been  hitherto  crowned 
with  but  little  success.  And  indeed  this  is  not  at  all  sur- 
prising, for  the  llomans  were  accustomed  to  disguise  the 
names  of  the  conquered  people  by  latinizing  them ; 
besides  this,  some  of  the  names  are  found  at  more  than 
one  point,  both  on  the  chain  of  the  Alps  and  the  upper 
Apennines;  many  of  the  tribes  have  disappeared  from 
the  earliest  times ;  and  finally,  the  transcribers  may  not 
always  have  copied  Pliny's  text  with  accuracy.  There  is 
nothing  strange,  then,  in  finding  a  great  want  of  harmony 
in  the  various  views  which  have  been  taken ;  each  student 
has  wished  rather  to  establish  his  own  theory  on  the  subject 
than  really  to  sift  the  whole  matter.  But  the  truth  is, 
that  we  must  seek  for  those  who  are  mentioned  in  the 
inscription  through  the  whole  range  of  mountains,  from 


64 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


the  very  confines  of  tbe  Austrian  frontier  to  the  extreme 
limit  of  Etriiria :  in  fact,  between  the  same  boundaries 
which  are  set  forth  in  the  inscription  itself. 

It  will  be  useless  in  these  pages  to  enter  into  the  dis- 
cussion as  to  the  right  interpretation  of  tliis  catalogue: 
but  it  may  perhaps  be  interesting  at  least  to  note  some  of 
the  names  in  which  tlie  local  historians  and  archieologista 
have  thought  they  recognised  the  tribes  of  the  Maritime 
Alps,  for  these  indications  seem  to  throw  a  certain  light 
on  the  etymology  of  some  of  the  names  of  the  villages  on 

this  part  of  the  coast. 

Thus  Lepontii,  Levens  above  Nice ;  Viheri  (Sospello)  in 
the  valley  of  the  Bevera  ;  *  Brigiani,  Briga,  valley  of  the 
Roia ;  Sogiontn,  Saorgio,  in  the  same  valley ;  EsuUani, 
the  valley  of  Vesubie ;  Gallitm,  Gillette,  valley  of  the 
Esteron ;  Edmi,  valley  of  the  Tinee ;  AratelU,  XJtelle,  valley 

of  the  Vesubie. 

To  those  almost  conclusive  reasons,  which  I  have 
already  given  for  looking  upon  the  monument  at  Turbia 
as  the  actual  trophy  of  Augustus,  I  will  now  add  the 
following.  The  trophy  was  situated  on  a  height ;  Fornix, 
says  Dion  Cassius,  irophmum  ferens  in  alpihus  impositus 
ed.  Among  the  Romans  the  word  alpis  signiiied  simply 
**  height ; "  it  was  not  till  much  later,  and  in  low  Latin, 
that  it  became  restricted  to  designate  the  lofty  range  of 
mountains  which  bounds  Italy  on  the  north.  It  results 
therefore  that  the  summa  alpis  where  the  trophy  was 
placed  must  be  some  lofty  point  close  to  the  Italian 

•  The  Latin  word  vibius^  amphibious,  and  fiber,  beaver,  and  the  Saxon  word 
befer  have  indeed  the  same  origin.  By  a  singular  coincidence  of  change  the 
first  has  become  bevero  in  Italian,  the  latter  beaver  in  English.  The  name 
Viberi  seems  consequently  to  indicate  that  the  beaver  existed  formerly  amongst 
the  torrents  of  the  Maritime  Alps. 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


65 


boundary,  and  there   is  no  point   which  so  completely 
fulfils  those  conditions  as  the  Tete  de  Chien. 

This  lofty  table-land  marked  the  precise  limit  of  Roman 
country,  since,  in  pursuing  this  road  further  eastward,  the 
traveller  met  immediately  the  territories  of  the  Marseillais 
towns  of  Nicxa  Civitas  and  of  Antipolis.  An  important 
road,  the  Aurelian  Way,  passed  through  it— an  advantage 
which  none  of  the  other  frontiers  could  offer— and  finally, 
it  constituted  a  natural,  that  is  a  geographical  boundary. 

Mount  Clapier,  which  is  the  most  elevated  peak  of  the 
Maritime  Alps,  marks  the  point  of  meeting  of  the  high 
valleys  of  the  Gesso,  the  Vesubie,  and  the  Roia,  between 
the  passes  of  Fenetres  and  Tenda.  From  the  flanks  of 
this  mountain  starts  a  ridge  which  passes  by  the  heights 
of  the  Authion,  the  Mairis,  the  Brois,  the  Grammont,  the 
Agel,  and  the  Tete  de  Chien,  prior  to  plunging  into  the 
sea  at  Monaco,  forming  an  uninterrupted  range  between 
the  Alps  and  the  Mediterranean.  This  ridge,  the  only  one 
which  fulfils  all  these  conditions,  is  without  doubt  the 
most  rational  line  of  demarcation  which  can  be  established 
between  the  Alps  and  the  Apennines;  also  the  Roman 
generals,  with  that  first  glance  which  was  always  so  accurate, 
in  spite  of  the  rudimentary  state  of  geographical  science 
at  that  time,  had  recognised  in  this  secondary  chain  the 
true  limit  of  Italy. 

In  the  Itinerary  of  Antoninus,  written  about  the  year 
150,  we  read  this  note : 

"  Hue  usque  Italia,  abhinc  Gallia.'' 

According  to  some  data  which  have  been  collected,  and 
from  which  calculations  were  prepared  in  1564  by  the 
Franciscan  Boyer  (a  Nifois)— who  had  the  advantage  of 

F 


1 


m 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


THE   ROMAN   PROVINCE. 


67 


seeing  the  ruins  before  the  Genoese  had  carried  away  the 
marbles,  and  the  Monegasques  had  demolished  the  greater 
portion  of  the  masonry— the  monument  consisted  of  a 
square  tower  in  the  Doric  style,  whose  sides,  230  feet  in 
breadth,  were  ornamented  with  massive  cohimns.  The 
height  has  never  been  estimated,  but  it  must  have  been 
very  considerable,  for  the  statue  of  Augustus,  which 
occupied  the  summit  of  the  buildiug,  and  tlie  head  of 
which  has  been  found,  was  22  feet  in  length. 

All  that  remains  at  the  present  day  of  this  most  im- 
posing monument,*  is  a  rough  mass  of  masonry,  and 
some  fragments  of  sculptured  inscription  in  the  walls  of 
the  village  of  Turbia,  the  name  alone  of  which  will  ever 
form  an  imperishable  memento  of  the  trophy  of  Augustus. 

Kemains  of  Eoman  ruins,  naturally  numerous  in  a 
country  traversed  by  a  road  like  the  Aurelijin  Way,  are 
however,  with  few  exceptions,  insignificant  in  Western 
Liguria,  thanks  to  the  depredations  of  the  Saracens,  and 
the  continuous  struggles  of  which  this  part  of  Europe  was 
the  theatre  during  the  middle  ages.  Tlie  only  ones  of  any 
remarkable  character  which  still  survive  are  the  amphi- 
theatre and  aqueduct  of  Frejus,  the  amphitheatre  of 
Cimiez,  the  monument  of  Turbia,  a  strong  castle  above 
Ventimiglia,  which  has  seen  some  service  in  the  wars  of 
medieval  times— Caste!  cV Appro,  already  mentioned— some 
remains  of  villas,  a  theatre  and  a  cemetery  on  the  right 

•  We  may  mention  in  reference  to  this  trophy,  that  the  Piedmontesc 
Government  (and  it  is  a  fact  wliich  deserves  to  be  {.ut  >m  record)  decided  in 
1859  thoroughly  to  r.^.a-e  it;  the  remain^  v,  re  carefully  surveyed,  and 
plans  duly  prepared  for  the  purpose,  but  unfortunately,  the  war  which  broke 
out  in  that  year  put  an  end  to  the  enterprise.  When  peace  was  again  restored 
Turbia  belonged  to  France,  and  up  to  the  present  date  no  further  steps  have 
been  taken  in  the  matter.     (See  Pembeiiton's  History  of  Monaco.)— A.  C.  D. 


bank  of  the  river  Nervia,  about  half  a  mile  to  the  eastward 
of  Ventimiglia,  which  probably  marked  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Alhintemelium,  The  theatre  already  referred  to 
is  built  of  freestone  blocks  brought  from  the  quarries  at 
Mortola,  and  bears  decided  traces  of  having  been  destroyed 
and  again  rebuilt  at  a  much  later  period  with  the  same 
stones,  but  without  much  attempt  to  reproduce  the  original 
building.  The  theatre  and  cemetery  are  to  be  found  in  a 
plot  of  land,  consisting  of  an  immense  sandbank  formed 
by  the  winds  of  many  centuries.  This  ground  has  been 
taken  as  national  property,  and  the  excavations  have  been 
carried  on  under  the  intelligent  direction  of  Professor 
Gerolamo  Eossi,  Inspector  of  excavations  and  of  national 
or  historic  monuments  in  the  province.  The  tombs  which 
have  been  discovered  are  five  in  number,  and  they  contain 
several  objects  of  interest,  amongst  others  a  Christian 
opisthographum  of  which  it  is  hoped  a  facsimile  will  be 
published. 

A  sculptural  inscription  on  the  front  of  the  first  tomb 
bears  the  name  of  Manius  Junius  Tranquillus,  Prefect  of 
military  labourers.     It  is  as  follows : 

D.   M. 

MANIO   TRAN 

QVILLO    BENEF 

PRAEF   FABRIC 

FECVLIARIS. 

MATER   FUJO   PL 

ENTISSIMO   FEC. 

Besides  those  mentioned,  there  have  also  been  dis- 
covered the  ruins  of  a  bridge,  which  must  have  carried 
the  Aurelian  Way  over  a  brook  to  the  east  of  San  Remo, 

near  the  Bondb. 

F  2 


III 


(     «8     ) 


THE   HERMITAGE   AND   THE   CLOISTER. 


69 


I 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE   HERMITAGE   AND   THE   CLOISTER. 

The  Lower  Empire— Barbaric  invasioBS— Origin  of  raonasticism— The 
heniiits  and  the  first  niouks— St.  Hooornt  at  Fhiiiasia— The  Abbey 
of  Le'rius— Anipelius  at  Bordighera— Hurmisdas  and  Ilumulus  at 
Matuta. 

Western  Ligueia  enjoyed  complete  tranquillity  during 
the  first  four  centuries  of  the  Christian  era ;  the  silence  of 
history  forces  this  conclusion  upon  us  and  compels  us  to 
pass  forward  at  once  to  the  year  400. 

The  glory  of  Rome  and  the  prestige  of  the  Roman  name 
are  now  but  memories.  To  the  manly  energy  of  the 
Republic,  to  the  splendours  of  the  Augustan  age,  have 
succeeded  the  effeminate  luxury  and  the  moral  debasement 
of  the  Lower  Empire. 

The  Roman  people,  always  implacable  as  enemies,  never 
became  cruel  as  conquerors,  until  the  decline  of  their 
power.  In  the  best  days  of  the  Republic  as  of  the 
Empire,  their  conquests  were  based  on  a  sound  policy ; 
this,  joined  to  the  generous  sentiments  which  a  sense  of 
irresistible  power  inspires  in  man,  prevented  the  Roman 
Generals  from  over  ill-treating  their  vanquished  enemies ; 
they  desired  only  to  absorb  tliem  into  the  common- 
wealth and  raise  them  to  a  liigher  state  of  civilisation. 

But  the  period  which  we  are  approaching  offers  a  very 
different  liistory.  The  gratification  of  the  debased  tastes 
of  a  decaying  and  vicious  people,  and  the  pursuit  of  per- 
sonal advantages  by  means  of  the  most  shameless  crimes. 


have,  for  the  last  three  centuries,  been  the  sole  occupation 
of  those  in  power. 

The  barbarous  peoples  of  the  Danube  and  the  Rhine, 
and  the  Christians  over  the  whole  of  the  empire,  have  been 
pillaged,  sent  into  captivity,  and  persecuted  without 
measure  and  without  mercy.  But  the  thunder-cloud  is 
about  to  burst,  and  the  hour  of  revenge  approaches. 
The  blood  of  gladiators  and  martyrs  has  imbued  the  soil 
of  the  arenas,  and  loudly  calls  for  vengeance : 

"  I  see  before  me  the  gladiator  lie : 

he  leans  upon  his  hand — his  manly  brow 

consents  to  death,  but  conquers  agony, 

and  his  droop'd  head  sinks  gradually  low — 

and  through  his  side  the  last  drops,  ebbing  slow 

from  the  red  gash,  fall  heavy,  one  by  one, 

like  the  first  of  a  thunder-shower ;  and  now 

the  arena  swims  around  him — he  is  gone, 
ere  ceased  the  inhuman  shout  which  hailed  the  wretch  who  won. 

He  heard  it  but  he  heeded  not — his  eyes 
were  with  his  heart,  and  that  was  far  away ; 
he  reck'd  not  of  the  life  he  lost  nor  prize, 
but  where  his  rude  hut  by  the  Danube  lay, 
there  were  his  young  barbarians  all  at  play, 
there  was  their  Dacian  mother — he,  their  sire, 
butcher'd  to  make  a  Roman  holiday — 
all  this  rushed  with  his  blood — shall  he  expire 
and  unavenged  ?— Arise,  ye  Goths,  and  glut  your  ire !  " 

Childe  Harold^  Canto  IV. 

It  was  in  the  year  400  that  Alaric  crossed  the  Alps  at 
the  head  of  the  first  barbarian  invasion.  He  did  not, 
however,  sack  Rome  until  410,  but  his  Gothic  hordes 
spread  themselves  immediately  throughout  Provence  and 
Liguria,  and  about  405  destroyed  the  Phocaean  town  of 
Nice.  But  the  Roman  authority  appears  then  to  have 
been   sufficiently  powerful    to   keep    them  at  bay,   for 


70 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


Cemenelium  did  not  fall  into  tlie  hands  of  the  barbarians 

until  much  later,  viz.  574. 

The  invasion  by  the  Goths  was  the  signal  in  Europe  for  a 
period  of  terror,  conflict,  and  devastation,  which  lasted  till 
the  formation  of  the  powerful  states  of  the  Renaissance.  The 
history  of  this  period  offers  a  most  heart-rending  picture : 

"  Criidelis  ubique 
luctus,  ubique  I'livor  et  plurima  mortis  imago." 

Monasticism  was  the  natural  outcome  and  one  of  the 
first  results  of  such  a  troublous  time.     The  sight  of  the 
desolation  which  reigned  over  the  finest  countries  of  the 
empire,  the  depravity  and  the  ignorance  which  had  in- 
vaded and  eaten  into  society,  and  the  ravages  and  mas- 
sacres which  increased  on  every  side,  could  not  fail  to 
disgust  tliinkers  and  men  of  lofty  character  with  life  and 
the  world  around  them.    The   hermitage  was  the  first 
result.    But  soon,  either  because  grottos,  however  inacces- 
sible and  secluded,  did  not  always  offer  a  secure  retreat, 
or   because    their  inhabitants    felt    the    inconveniences 
of  a  solitary  life,  these  hermits  began  to  gather  into  com- 
munities and  to  build  dwellings,  frequently  of  a  fortified 
character,  which  in  time  became  the  only  refuges  re- 
maining in  Europe  for  those  who  had  either  attained 
knowledge  or  were  desirous  of  acquiring  it. 

Letters,  the  fine  arts,  and  science  were  forced  into  the 
background;  they  were  unknown  even  to  the  higher 
classes,  and  despised  by  those  who  made  warfare  their 
profession.  The  Church  alone  could  offer  them  an  asylum 
and  safety;  and  so  it  came  to  pass  that  thought  and 
learning  found  in  the  cloister  both  a  sanctuary  and  a  home. 
It  was  about  the  end  of  the  fourth  or  at  the  beginning 
of  the  fifth  century,  in  375  according  to  some,  in  410 


THE  HEBMITAGE   AND   THE   CLOISTER. 


71 


1 

'  III 


according  to  others,  that  a  friar,  a  native  of  Gaul  but  de- 
scended from  a  Koman  family,  after  having  vainly 
wandered  over  Europe  and  the  East  in  search  of  a  spot  for 
meditation  and  rest,  established  himself  in  a  hermitage  on 
Cape  Eoux  in  the  Esterel,  where,  later  on,  some  pious 
monks  having  joined  him,  he  decided  on  founding  a 
monastery.  Two  beautiful  islands,  situated  at  the  entrance 
of  a  superb  gulf,  easy  to  fortify,  and  sufficiently  far  from 
the  coast  to  render  surprise  improbable,  attracted  St. 
Honorat  and  his  associates,  and  led  them  to  determine  on 
the  foundation  of  the  institution  known  in  history  as  the 

Abbey  of  Levins. 

"  The  group  of  the  Lerins  Islands,  towards  which  the 
continent  throws  out  the  low  headland  of  the  Cap  de  la 
Croisette,  is  composed  of  tsvo  islands,  unequal  in  size,  but 
symmetrical  in  shape,  and  running  parallel,  side  by  side, 
in  the  direction  of  east  and  west.  The  northernmost  one, 
the  shores  of  which  face  north-west  in  abrupt  cliffs,  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  coast  of  Cannes  by  a  strait  of  about  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  crowded  with  rocks,  amongst 
^^hich  it  is  hardly  safe  to  navigate  a  vessel  drawing  more 
than  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  of  water.  The  anchorage  of 
Frioul,  which  stretches  between  the  two  islands,  has  a  very 
similar  depth,  and  is  760  feet  broad.  Some  little  islets, 
entirely  uninhabited,  complete  the  archipelago.  A  temple 
dedicated  to  Lero,  a  famous  pirate  of  the  heroic  times,  in 
whom  it  is  possible  to  recognise  Hercules,  rises  on  the 
larger  island  ;  the  name  of  the  demi-god  became  the  title 
of  the  entire  group,  and  is  continued  to  the  present  day 
under  the  transformation  of  Lerins:'* 

Saint  Honorat  chose  the  most  distant  of  the  two  islands, 

*  Reclus— Xt'S  ViUes  tVIIwcr  dc  la  MMiterranee. 


I 


72 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


Phnasia,  witliout  doubt  because  of  its  sheltered  position 
from  attack,  and  as  protected  in  a  great  degree  by  Lerina, 
For  there  was  on  the  hirge  island  a  colony  of  barbarians 
subsisting  on  piracy. 

This  cmnohium  soon  became  a  sort  of  school  of  theology. 
St.  Honorat,  a  learned  theologian,  an  eloquent  preacher,  an 
enthusiastic  apostle,  was  in  every  respect  a  master  mind, 
proof  of  which  we  find  in  the  large  number  of  tliose  who  as 
disciples  placed  themselves  under  his  teacliing,  amongst 
whom  indeed  are  to  be  noted  some  of  the  foremost  names 
of  the  fifth  century,  such  as  St.  Loup,  bishop  of  Troyes, 
St.  Patrick,  evangelist  of  Ireland,  and  Salvien,  the  preacher 
of  Marseilles.  But  Honorat  was  too  distinguished  a  man 
and  too  valuable  to  the  Church  to  be  left  indefinitely  upon 
his  island,  and  in  427  he  yielded  to  the  entreaties  with 
which  he  was  assailed,  and  accepted  the  bishopric  of  Aries. 
.  Towards  the  middle  of  the  sixth  century  tlie  monastery 
adopted  the  Benedictine  rule,  as  formulated  by  St. 
Benedict  in  529  at  Monte  Cassino  in  the  Terra  di  Lavoro. 

From  this  time  it  developed  rapidly,  and  became  at 
once  a  monastery,  a  fortress,  and  an  important  commercial 
centre,  until,  at  the  end  of  the  century,  its  fame  had 
spread  throughout  Europe  and  placed  it  amongst  the  most 
celebrated  institutions  of  its  kind,  its  monks  having  in- 
creased to  nearly  3700  in  number.  These  naturally  could 
not  all  subsist  upon  the  Lerins  Islands,  but  established 
powerful  and  numerous  dependencies  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, a  hospital  at  Genoa,  a  nunnery  at  Tarascon,  two 
other  monasteries  on  the  Ligurian  coast,  and,  somewhat 
later  on,  an  establishment  of  a  very  peculiar  character  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Bordighera,  and  which 
played  an  interesting  part  in  the  local  history  of  the  six- 


THE   HERMITAGE   AND   THE   CLOISTER. 


73 


teenth  century :  hence  we  shall  again  meet  the  abbey  in 
the  great  days  of  Louis  XIV. 

At  the  very  same  time  that  St.  Honorat  was  establishing 
himself  in  his  grotto  in  the  Esterel,  another  individual, 
whose  history  singularly  resembles  his,  although  the 
latter's  work  lacked  the  widespread  reputation  of  the 
former's,  had  come  and  installed  himself  in  the  cavern  at 
the  extremity  of  the  Cape  of  Bordighera.  This  was 
Ampelius,  the  patron  saint  of  the  locality. 

The  historical  particulars  which  exist  with  regard  to 
this  saint  contain  but  few  details.  His  biographer,  the 
Abbe  Rossi  of  Sasso,  having  examined  the  old  manuscripts 
and  ecclesiastical  works  which  are  to  be  found  in  the 
libraries  of  Genoa  and  Turin,  concludes  as  follows : 

''  According  to  some  writers  Afnj>elms  (Ampelio  in  Italian) 
was  born  at  Arezzo  in  Tuscany,  but  this  has  been  con- 
tradicted ;  what  is  more  to  the  point  is,  that  St.  Petronius, 
Bishop  of  Bologna,  found  him  amongst  a  number  of  monks 
and  hermits  in  Upper  Egypt,  where  he  followed  the  trade 
of  a  blacksmith." 

The  austerity  of  his  life,  his  devotion  to  the  suffering, 
and  the  remarkable  miracles  which  he  accomplished,  in  a 
very  short  time  created  for  him  in  the  Theba'id  a  notoriety 
which  was  far  from  being  to  his  taste,  and  he  speedily 
obtained  from  his  superior  permission  to  abandon  the  life 
of  the  cloister  and  pass  into  that  of  the  Anchorites. 

The  neighbourhood  of  Bordighera  must  have  been  un- 
inhabited at  this  time,  but  we  can  well  imagine  that  the 
Cape,  with  its  splendid  view,  its  pure  and  stimulating  air, 
and  its  delicious  climate,  had  attractions  for  one  seeking  a 
peaceful  retreat,  far  from  the  busy  hum  of  men.  But 
though  we  are  ignorant  of  what  especial  chain  of  circum- 


74 


LOCAL  HISTOBY. 


stances  brouglit  Ampelio  to  tins  place,  it  is  allowed  that 
he  died  here  in  the  year  a.d.  428,  after  having  inhabited 
for  several  years  the  Grotto,  which  at  the  present  time 
forms  the  crypt  of  the  chapel. 

His  death  was  a  public  loss  to  the  whole  of  Western 
Lignria,  for  he  had  been  at  once  an  oracle  and  benefactor. 
Here,  as  in  Egypt,  his  life  had  been  devoted  to  the  welfare 
of  his  neighbour,  and  his  miracles  and  the  austerity  of  his 
life  had  made  him  as  celebrated  as  beloved.  He  was 
buried  in  the  same  cave  which  had  been  his  dwelling-place, 
and  his  tomb  quickly  became  a  favourite  place  of  pil- 
grimage.* 

This  grotto,  which  is  still  visited  by  many  on  the  14th 
of  May,  Imfeie  day  as  patron  saint  of  tlie  town,  is  now 
surmounted  by  a  chapel,  the  date  of  the  original  construc- 
tion of  which  is  unknown.  It  must,  however,  have  been 
after  the  year  1140,  since  at  that  period  the  people  of  San 
Kemo,  in  their  anxiety  to  discover  the  tomb,  were  com- 
pelled to  seek  information  as  to  its  situation  from  certain 
Vintimiglian  prisoners,  who  gained  their  release  by  dis- 
closing the  secret :  a  most  improbable  fact,  if  the  Grotto 
had  already  been  marked  by  a  sanctuary.  It  was,  how- 
ever, enlarged  and  restored  in  1852,  but  still  remains  par- 
tially incomplete.  The  statue  in  marble,  very  fliirly 
executed,  which  stands  above  the  altar,  represents  the 
saint  holding  his  blacksmith's  hammer,  and  was  placed 
there  on  June  29th,  1655. 

The  priory  is  a  very  ancient  foundation :  it  possessed 
formerly  a  revenue  of  one  hundred  crowns  per  annum,  but 
reduced  later  to  fifty. 

The  ashes  of  St.  Ampelio  rested  in  peace  in  the  her- 

*  Profits..!  F.  ll'^ssi—Mimork  di  S.  Ampelio. 


THE   HEEMITAGE   AND   THE   CLOISTER. 


75 


mitage,  now  become  a  vault,  until  the  middle  of  the 
twelfth  century,  when  they  were  transported  to  San  Kemo, 
and  later  on  to  Genoa,  under  circumstances  of  which  1 
shall  speak  hereafter. 

At  this  distance  of  time  it  is  not  easy  to  separate  fact 
from  fiction  in  the  legend  of  St  Ampelio.  His  biographers, 
as  we  have  found,  state  distinctly  that  he  passed  the  first 
portion  of  his  life  in  Egypt,  but  it  is  impossible  to  deny 
the  fact  that  this  assertion  rests  entirely  on  the  hypothesis 
that  the  name  of  Apelles,  under  which  St.  Fetronius  and 
others  knew  him  in  the  East,  had  been  transformed  into 
Ampelius  on  his  arrival  in  Italy.  So  that  it  may  have 
been  with  his,  as  with  otlier  Greek  names  known  and  in 
use  in  Italy  at  the  period  when  he  existed,  that  the  last 
form  became  that  most  common;  there  was  a  Roman 
prefect  under  Valentinian,  and  a  Latin  author  of  the  fifth 
century  named  Ampelius. 

The  transformation  is  then  quite  possible,  but  it  does  not 
appear  sufficiently  well  proved  to  establish  absolutely  the 
identity  of  the  two  individuals. 

However  this  may  be,  the  presence  of  a  hermit  in  the 
grotto  on  the  Cape  at  the  commencement  of  the  fifth  cen- 
tury must  be  considered  an  incontestable  fact ;  and  it  is 
equally  probable  that  this  individual  was  a  saint  in  the 
truest  acceptation  of  the  word:  that  is,  a  humble  and 
earnest  Christian,  devoted  to  his  fellow-men,  and  ready  to 
sacrifice  everything  in  the  philanthropic  and  missionary 
work  which  he  had  undertaken. 

With  regard  to  the  miracles  which  his  biographers 
attribute  to  him,  some  of  which  might  have  rivalled  those 
of  the  Apostles  and  their  Divine  Master  himself,  if  we  are 
obliged  to  hesitate  in  accepting  them  at  once  and  without 


76 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


examination,  we  must  at  least  recognise  in  tliem  deeds  of 
courage  and  nobleness  which  come  down  to  us,  after  four- 
teen centuries,  disguised  and  exaggerated  by  the  con- 
tinually magnifying  power  of  popular  tradition.  We  can 
well  say,  then,  of  St.  Ampelius,  borrowing  the  words  of 
one  of  the  hymns  of  his  office  : 

"  Hie  Deo  soli  prociil  a  profanis 
servieiis  miindi  docuit  cadiicas, 
spernere  invicto  pede  res,  et  astra 

meiite  siibire. 

Corpus  affixit  made  ritique 
arduam  duxit  sine  labe  vitam 
donee  insignis  meritis  beata 

regna  iietivit." 

Or,  to  roughly  paraphrase  it  into  English  : 

"  Alone,  remote  from  sin,  he  served  bis  God, 

the  fleeting  things  of  tins  world  dailj-  spurned, 
treading  them  firmly  'neatli  the  resisting  sod, 
whilst  heart  and  eyes  were  ever  heavenward  turned. 

By  poverty  and  fasting  mortified 
his  fiesh,  and  stainless  lived  in  faith  and  love ; 

famed  for  pure  life  and  gentle  deeds,  he  died— 
say,  rather,  sought  the  blessed  realms  above  !  " 

J.  Y. 

The  town  of  Matuta  has  no  place  in  the  history  of  the 
Koman  period,  but  the  peculiarly  Latin  form  of  the  name 
and  the  ruins  which  have  been  discovered  indicate  very 
clearly  that  it  was  founded  at  tlie  latest  under  the  empire 
and  before  the  fall  of  Paganism.    Matuta,  then,*  does 

•  Matuta,  commonly  called  "Mater  Matuta,"  was  the  Goddess  of  the  Dawn, 
identified  by  the  Romans  with  the  Leucothea  of  the  Greeks.  Her  festival,  the' 
Matralia,  was  celebrated  on  the  11th  of  June.  As  to  Leucothea,  u  r  read  that 
she  was  originally  a  mortal,  Ino  hy  name,  and  the  second  wife  of  Ath.xnas,  a 
son  of  .Eolus ;  owing,  however,  to  domestic  troubles,  which  it  is  unnecessary 'to 
recount  here,  she  threw  herself  with  a  son  into  the  sea,  and,  as  a  reward 
apparently,  was  changed  into  the  goddess  Leucothea. 


THE   FEUDAL   TIMES. 


77 


not  appear  on  the  scene  of  history  until  the  commence- 
ment of  the  seventh  century.  At  this  time,  according  to 
tradition,  Stephen,  Bishop  of  Genoa,  sent  as  a  missionary 
a  monk  of  the  name  of  Ilormisdas.  We  know  nothing  what- 
ever of  the  life  of  this  worthy,  except  that,  like  Ampelius 
of  Bordigbera,  he  lived,  died,  and  was  buried  in  a  grotto 
which  is  still,  at  the  present  day,  an  object  of  veneration. 

The  invasion  of  the  Lombards  under  Alboin  took  place 
towards  the  end  of  the  sixth  century.  They  destroyed 
Cimiez  in  574,  Matuta  in  641,  Genoa  in  670  under 
Kotharis. 

The  Bishop  of  the  last  town,  Eomulus  by  name,  driven 
from  his  own  diocese,  took  refuge  in  the  grotto  of 
Hormisdas  in  the  midst  of  the  ruins  of  Matuta.  The 
population,  scattered  and  miserable,  gathered  themselves 
instantly  round  him,  and,  encouraged  no  less  by  his 
example  than  by  his  exhortations,  began  to  reconstruct 
the  town  which  afterwards  was  known  as  San  Bomolo. 

We  shall  see  in  good  time  how,  much  later  on,  Bornulus 
became  Bemus,  prior  to  forming  the  modern  name  of  San 
Bemo. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


THE   FEUDAL  TIMES. 


The  Genoese  league — The  Emperor  suzerains — Foundation  of  fortified 
villages— Matuta,  Nice,  Monaco,  and  Ventimiglia  during  the  Middle 
Ages. 

The  first  traces  of  a  revival,  after  the  long  period  of 
anarchy  and  the  degradation  of  the  moral  sense  which 
accompanied  the  dismemberment  of  the  empire,  are  not 


78 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   FEUDAL   TIMES. 


79 


found  in  Western  Liguria  until  tlie  commencement  of  the 
seventh  century.  The  Genoese  League,  embracing  the 
whole  of  the  coast,  was  organised  in  617,  and  victoriously 
resisted  the  Franks  until  the  overwhelming  triumphs  of 
Charlemagne  and  his  coronation  by  Leo  IIL  in  the  year  800. 

But  a  new  era  of  confusion  and  trouble  was  at  hand. 
Charlemagne  died  in  814  and  liis  empire  was  divided 
amongst  his  sons :  Charles  tlie  Bald  received  France  (as 
for  shortness  we  may  call  it),  whilst  Italy  fell  to  Lothair, 
who  took  the  title  of  Emperor  of  the  West. 

But  at  this  time  the  emperors  were  no  more  than  titular 
suzerains  of  Liguria,  where  the  colonies  had  already  begun 
taking  the  first  steps  towards  the  formation  of  free  towns. 
The  continued  incursions  of  the  Saracens  forced  moreover 
the  inhabitants  of  the  sea-coasts  to  fortify  their  villages 
and  to  arm  themselves  in  defence  of  their  hearths,  inde- 
pendently of  a  sovereign  whom  incessant  wars,  not  less 
than  a  tottering  throne,  occupied  far  too  exclusively  to 
cast  an  eye  even  on  a  country  not  only  far  off,  but  without 
any  political  importance. 

Thus  then  were  founded  the  Ligurian  villages,  the 
oldest  of  which  had  a  much  greater  resemblance  to  strongly 
fortified  castles  tliau  agricultural  hamlets,  whose  popula- 
tions, gathered  together  around  their  intrepid  leaders, 
erected  themselves  these  fortified  dwellings  on  situations 
as  varied  as  well  chosen ;  sometimes  on  a  commanding 
position,  sometimes  carefully  hidden  by  wooded  hills, 
but  always  easy  to  defend,  and  from  whence  they  never 
went  out,  even  to  attend  to  their  agricultural  labours,  but 
with  arms  in  their  liands — to  pillage,  it  might  be,  one 
another,  or  to  contend  together  against  the  common 
enemy,  the  pirates  (the  African  corsairs),  whose  sudden  or 
imexpected  landings  were  a  source  of  permanent  danger. 


4 


The  history  of  Western  Liguria  during  the  whole  of  the 
feudal  times  hardly  offers  to   our  notice  any  events  of 

interest. 

The  town  of  Matuta,  which  did  not  officially  take  the 
name  of  San  Remo  until  the  twelfth  century,  was  a  fief  of 
the  Bishopric  of  Genoa.  Nice,  whose  population  and  pros- 
perity had  increased  with  great  rapidity  towards  the  end  of 
the  sixth  century,  thanks  to  the  immigration  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Cimiez  (which  town  had  been  destroyed  by 
the  Lombards  in  the  year  574),  was  possessed  in  turn  by 
the  kings  of  France,  the  Bishop  of  Genoa,  and  the  Counts 
of  Aries  ;  but  in  the  year  900  consuls  were  elected,  and  the 
town  rejoiced  in  an  almost  complete  autonomy  until  its 
union  with  the  "county"*  of  Provence  in  1228,  during 
the  reign  of  Raymond  Beranger  IV.  In  1332,  however, 
it  was  taken  by  Amadeus  VII.  of  Savoy,  and  from  that 
time  remained  almost  uninterruptedly  in  the  possession 

of  that  house. 

Monaco,  originally  founded,  so  it  is  said,  by  Hercules, 
and  occupied  continuously  by  the  Saracens  from  the  time 
of  Charlemagne,  was  ceded  to  Genoa  in  1162  by  the 
Emperor  Frederic  II.,  but  the  republic  did  not  take  pos- 
session until  1215. 

In  1338,  Charles  Grimaldi,  a  Frankish  noble  according 
to  some,  a  Genoese  according  to  others,  seized  the  territory 
composed  of  the  communes  of  Monaco,  Roquebrune,  and 
Mentone,  and  founded  a  principality  which,  though  it  has 
passed  through  an  endless  variety  of  vicissitudes,  has,  so 
far  at  least  as  Monaco  itself  is  concerned,  remained  ever 
in  his  family. 

*  As  this  word  county  may  perhaps  cause  confusion  to  English  readers,  I 
will  mention  that  the  meaning  here  is  perfectly  distinct  from  our  ordinary  use 
of  it.     Here  it  refers  to  a  province  governed  by  a  "  Count." — A.  C.  D. 


80 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE    COUNTY   OF   VENTIMIGLIA. 


81 


Yentimiglia,  a  very  strong  and  important  place  according 
to  the  strategy  of  that  time,  arose  upon  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  Alhintemelium,  and  had  given  it  the  rank  of  a 
"county  "  by  the  Emperor  OthoL,  towards  the  end  of  the 
tenth  century.  Sanguinary  wars  with  Genoa,  varied  by 
repeated  sieges,  fo. lowed  each  other,  until  the  town  was 
finally  joined  with  the  republic  in  the  thirteenth  century. 

It  would  but  uselessly  fatigue  the  reader  to  n^peat  the 
details  of  the  long  see-saw  of  local  wars,  of  the  cessions, 
more  or  less  definite,  of  the  various  territories  and  of  con- 
tinual depredations  by  the  Saracens.  It  is,  however, 
necessary,  in  order  to  understand  clearly  tljc  later  events 
connected  with  this  part  of  tlie  coast  which  we  are  specially 
interested  in,  that  before  recounting  the  founlation  of 
Bordighera,  we  take  a  rapid  view  over  the  histoi  y  <'f  some 
of  its  localities;  viz.  Veutiiniglia,  San  Remo,  the  Fief  of 
Selorga,  and  the  Principality  of  Monaco. 


CHxVPTEll  V. 

THE  "  COUNTY  "  OF  VENTIMIGLIA. 

IntrocluctioQ  of  Christiariity— Origlu  of  the  "  county"— Early  wars 
willi  Genoa — Tnmslatiou  of  the  body  of  St.  Aiupolio — Civil  war — 
Ventimiglia  as  a  Commune— Fresli  wars  with  <Jenoa:  first  siege  and 
stratagems  of  the  Genoese — Second  siege  and  capituhitiun  of  the 
town — Third  siege  and  destruction  of  tlie  town — The  "  Cast  rum 
Vihtimiliense  " — Ventimiglia  a  Genoese  possession. 

Ventimiglia,  which  at  the  end  of  the  Roman  dominion 
was  an  important  town — an  urhs  magna,  as  the  writers  of 
the  period  tell  us— had  developed  rapidly  during  the  first 
centuries  of  the  middle  ages,  whilst  its  position,  strong 


u 


from  the  ease  with  which  it  could  be  defended   when 
attacked,    drew    to    it    an    ever-increasing    population. 
Christianity  was  introduced  at  a  very  early  date ;  tradition 
indeed  has  it,  that  many  saints  of  the  first  century  visited 
it— amongst  others,  the  suffragan  apostle  Barnabas,  who 
came    and   preached   in   these   parts  and    founded  the 
Bishopric  of  Ventimiglia.     However  this  may  be,  it  is 
certain  that  the  baptistry  and  the  cathedral  are  amongst 
the  most  ancient  pagan  temples  in  Liguria,  transformed 
into  Christian  churches.  It  is  impossible,  unfortunately,  to 
fix  the  exact  date  of  the  first  creation  of  the  "  county  "  of 
Ventimiglia*.   According  to  some  authorities,  Charlemagne 
had  awarded  it  to  a  certain  Guide  Guerra,  a  noble  of 
Liguria ;  according  to  others,  the  Emperor  Otho  I.  had 
created  it  to  the  profit  and  for  the  benefit  of  Count  Aleran  ; 
whilst  again  there  are  some  (and  according  to  Abbe  Rossi 
with  greater  truth),  who  trace  the  descent  of  the  Counts 
of  Ventimiglia  from  Conrad,  son  of  Berenger  II.,  King  of 
Italy,  who  died  in  the  year  062. 

The  "county"  was  originally  a  dependency  of  the 
marquisat  of  Susa,  and  extended  on  the  east  as  far  as  the 
Armeria  by  Taggia  and  Porto  Maurizio,  to  the  west  to 
Turl)ia  and  St.  Etienne  de  la  Time,  whilst  to  the  north  it 
was  bounded  by  Piedmont  or  the  Duchy  of  Turin. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  twelfth  century,  the 
Republic  of  Genoa  aspired  to  the  supremacy  of  the  whole 
of  Liguria,  and  constructed  a  powerful  fortress  at  San 
Remo,  under  the  pretext  of  securing  the  safety  of  the  roads. 
A  struggle  followed,  in  which  the  Count  was  worsted,  only 
just  preserving  his  independence,  but  in  1140  the  Genoese 

*  See  note  on  page  79.     The  use  is  here  a  territorial  one,  just  as  we  now 
say  "  the  Duchy  of  Lancaster,"  or  "Duchy  of  Cornwall."— A.  C,  D. 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


Government,  always  jealous  of  the  autouomy  of  Venti- 
miglia,  complained  to  Conrad  II.,  King  of  the  Komans, 
with  regard  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  county,  characteris- 
ing them  as  «  robbers  and  pirates,"  and  implored  liis  aid 
to  crush  them.  Conrad  allied  himself  to  the  Marquess  of 
Savona,  and  laid  siege  to  the  town,  which  was  taken  and 

The  people  of  San  Bomuh  took  on  this  occasion  a 
certain  imraber  of  Ventimiglian  prisoners,  but  gave  them 
their  liberty  in  exchange  for  the  body  of  St.  Ampelio,  or 
rather  on  tlieir  informing  their  captors  of  the  exact 
situation  of  the  grotto  where  the  saint  was  buried,  at  the 
extremity  of  the  Cape  which  bears  liis  name. 

The  body  of  the  saint,  therefore,  had  already  become  an 
object  of  veneration.  The  Ventimigliaus  attached,  with- 
out doubt,  a  very  great  value  to  it,  and  at  the  commence- 
ment of  hostilities  they  had  probably  destroyed,  with  very 
great  care,  every  tiling  that  might  indicate  the  entrance 

of  the  cavern. 

Any  way,  the  fact  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  former 
town  giving  liberty  to  their  prisoners  on  their  divulging 
the  secret,  proves  very  clearly  that  there  can  have  been 
no  sanctuary  raised  over  the  tomb  at  this  time. 

The  body  of  the  saint  was  then  transported  to  San 
Remo  and  deposited  in  the  church  of  St.  Stephen,  where 
it  rested  until  1258,  at  which  time  his  relics  were  again 
removed,  this  time  to  Genoa,  and  placed  in  a  church  there 
also  dedicated  to  St  Stephen,  and  belonging,  curiously 
enoucrh,  to  the  Abbey  of  Lerins,  which,  as  before  mentioned, 
was  founded  by  his  great  contemporary,  St.  Honorat. 

Soon  after  these  events.  Count  Hubert  made  submission 
and  did  homage  to  the  Republic  of  Genoa,  receiving  in 


THE    COUNTY   OF    VENTIMIGLIA. 


83 


I 


return  a  formal  investiture  of  seignorial  rights  over  the 
"  county."  This  was  nothing  else  but  an  abdication  under 
another  name ;  but  it  had  deeper  significance  so  far  as  the 
town  was  concerned,  for  from  this  event  we  must  date  for 
Ventimiglia  the  commencement  of  free  government  by 
Consuls  and  a  Parliament. 

Towards,  however,  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century,  an 
interesting  movement  began  through  the  whole  length  of 
Jjiguria,  having  for  its  object  union  with  Genoa,  then  the 
most  important  naval  and  commercial  power  in  that  part 
of  the  Mediterranean.  For  that  great  but  unscrupulous 
republic^  whose  fiscal  policy  was  of  an  entirely  protec- 
tionist character,  knew  only  too  well,  that  the  best  means 
of  imposing  its  suzerainty  on  the  inhabitants  of  the  coast, 
was,  by  appealing  not  to  their  fears,  but  to  their  pockets  ! 
The  allies  and  friendly  towns  could  traffic  freely  with 
Genoa ;  their  vessels,  laden  with  merchandise,  might 
enter  and  leave  her  ports  at  will,  whilst  the  ships  of  the 
independent  Communes  were  taxed,  and  their  freights 
almost  crushed  by  onerous  duties,  ere  they  could  enter  the 
harbour. 

But  the  inhabitants  of  Ventimiglia,  who  not  only 
possessed  ships,  but  had  even  a  little  port  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Roia,  claimed  to  act  independently  and  to  trade  with 
distant  countries  on  their  own  account.  They  therefore 
held  themselves  aloof,  and  even  dared,  under  the  influence 
of  an  ambassador  of  the  Emperor  Frederic  Barbarossa,  to 
destroy  a  fortress  which  the  Genoese  had  erected  just 
above  their  town,  and  later  on,  completed  their  defiance 
by  boldly  taking  the  side  of  the  Emperor  against  the 
Republic  in  the  wars  of  the  Lombardian  League. 

Ventimiglia    thus   became  practically  a  fief   of   the 

G  2 


OTC 


LOCAL   HISTORY, 


Empire,  and  the  autliority  of  the  Counts  was  reduced  to 

zero. 

But  on  the  death  of  Count  Guy  (who,  having  more 
philosophy  than  force  of  character,  had  fallen  easily  into 
the  state  of  affairs),  his  son  and  successor,  Otho,  sought  at 
once  to  recover  his  lost  authority  and  to  suppress  again 
the  liberties  of  the  town. 

This  was  naturally  the  signal  for  a  civil  war.  The 
Count  was  besieged  in  the  castle  of  St.  Agnes  and  his  son 
in  that  of  Dolceaqua,  which  latter  was  taken  and  burnt 

in  1185. 

The  triumph  of  the  town  was  followed  by  a  compromise, 
the  result  of  which  was,  that  Count  Otho  granted  a 
charter  to  his  people,  not  only  re-establishing  all  their 
rights,  but  even  extending  them. 

Ventimiglia  then  entered  upon  a  period  of  complete 
independence,  enjoying  a  Republican  hvm  of  government  in 
everything  but  tlie  name.  Authority  was  exercised  by  four 
elected  Consuls,  a  Council  of  nobles  or  citizens  of  position, 
and  a  rarliament  Nvliicli  met  in  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
JMaria,  an  extremely  ancient  building  whicli  had  been 
erected  on  the  ruins  of  a  temple  of  Juno. 

The  principal  officers  of  the  State  were— the  Cintracus 
**  Herald ; "  the  Boni  Fm  or  experts,  cliarged  with  the 
administration  of  the  public  funds ;  a  Chancellor,  who 
undertook  the  drawing  up  of  the  parliamentary  reports  and 
the  decrees  of  the  Consuls;  and  a  Potestasov  High  Bailiff, 
whose  position  was  that  of  Chief  Judge,  and  who  attached 
the  great  seal  of  the  Commune  to  the  public  acts. 

The  Cintracus,  in  the  free  towns  at  this  time,  and 
especially  in  Genoa  under  the  Eepublic,  was  a  very 
important  functionary,  who  combined,  in  a  sort  of  way,  the 


THE  COUNTY   OF  VENTIMIGLIA. 


85 


\ 


modern  posts  of  Secretary  to  the  Commune  and  Euissier* 
He  called  Parliament  together,  took  oaths  in  the  name 
of  the  State,  acted  as  "Public  Prosecutor,"  presided  at 
the  auctions  for  the  farming  of  the  taxes,  and  promulgated 
the  laws  and  all  the  news  after  blowing  his  horn  in  the 
Piazza. 

But  a  system  of  liberty  so  complete,  especially  when 
combined  with  great  commercial  prosperity,  could  not  fail 
to  cause  irritation  to  the  two  natural  enemies  of  the  town  : 
the  titular  family  of  the  county,  who  still  longed  to  re- 
assert their  lost  autliority,  and  the  Republic  of  Genoa, 
always  jealous  of  any  rival,  however  insignificant ;  and  the 
time,  alas !  was  not  far  off  when  this  spirited  little  town 
was  to  be  made  cruelly  conscious  of  it.  In  the  year  1196, 
Count  Otho  and  the  Genoese  combined  their  forces  and 
besieged  Ventimiglia  for  the  space  of  two  months,  but 
failing,  in  spite  of  the  most  determined  efforts,  to  enter 
the  town,  they  organised  a  league  of  the  whole  of 
Liguria  to  make  Guerramvivam  contra  Vintimilienses. 

I  may  mention  here  that  the  name  of  Ventimiglia  has 
suffered  many  transformations ;  its  primitive  was  Allium 
Intemelium,  which  aherwordshecsime  Alhinteinelium;  later 
it  was  abbreviated  to  Iniemelium,  whilst  towards  the  end  of 
the  middle  ages  we  find  Vintimilium.  The  formation 
Vigintimilium,  which  is  found  in  many  documents,  is 
nothing  but  an  unscholarly  translation  of  Ventimilium, 

The  allies  established  their  camp  on  the  Cape  of  St. 
Ampelio,  but  they  were  unable  to  do  more  than  ravage 
the  country  on  either  side  of  the  Nervia. 

In  face  of  a  resistance  as  successful  as  it  was  obstinate 
and  courageous,  the  Genoese,  finding  force  of  no  avail,  had 

♦  This  is  a  sort  of  French  equivalent  of  our  sherifTs  officer. — A.  C.  D, 


86 


LOCAL  HISTOEY. 


recourse  to  stratagem,  and  caused  a  rumour  to  be  spread 
that  a  large  Ventimiglian  galley,  which  had  been  cruising 
on  the  coast  of  Spain,  had  been  captured  and  taken  into 

Genoa. 

At  this  news,  as  disastrous  as  unexpected,  the  galhint 
defenders  of  Ventimiglia  at  once  laid  down  tlieir  arms 
and  capitulated,  in  order  that  they  might  purchase  the 
safety  of  their  compatriots,  now,  as  they  believed,  fallen 
iBto  tlie  hands  of  a  cruel  and  vindictive  enemy,  and  the 
Genoese  entered  and  took  possession  of  the  town. 

The  history  of  the  miserable  years  which  followed  is 
alas  but  that  common  to  most  of  the  smaller  states  during 
medijBval  times— a  long  series  of  hopeless  revolts  on  the 
one  side  and  bloody  repressions  on  the  other,  only  one  of 
which  is  of  sufficient  importance  to  find  mention  here. 

In  the  year  1222  the  town  of  Ventimiglia  had  allied 
itself  to  Raymond  V.  of  Provence,  who  had  married  the 
Princess  Beatrice  of  Savoy.  Kaymond  himself  directed 
the  defence  of  the  town,  and  a  most  memorable  siege  took 
place ;  a  siege  the  most  terrible  in  every  respect  which 
this  unfortunate  town  has  ever  sustained.  Finding  them- 
selves utterly  unable  to  take  by  assault  a  town  situated  as 
this  was  on  the  top  of  a  precipitous  cliff,  tlie  Genoese 
decided  to  reduce  it  by  famine.  They  therefore  sank  a 
large  galley  full  of  stones  at  the  mouth  of  the  Roya,  thus 
most  effectually  blocking  the  port,*  and  also  turned  the 
course  of  the  river  aside  above  the  town,  entirely  depriving 
the  inhabitants  of  water;  the  result  of  which  was  that 


*  This  was  the  same  course,  it  may  be  remembered,  as  that  taken  by  the  com- 
mander of  the  United  States  Naval  Forces  in  order  to  reduce  New  Orh-.ins  to 
submission,  and  put  a  stop  to  the  blockade  running,  which  was  the  chief 
means  of  support  of  the  beleaguered  city. — A.  ('.  D. 


THE   COUNTY   OF   VENTIMIGLIA. 


87 


1 


after  an  heroic  resistance  Ventimiglia  was  compelled  once 
more  to  capitulate. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  siege,  the  Genoese  restored  the 
Caziel  d^A^pio,  and  constructed  the  present  fortress  of  St. 
Paul,  hoping  by  these  means  to  hold  in  subjection  this 
brave  and  independent  little  town.  But  symptoms  of 
another  revolt  were  not  long  in  re-appearing,  and  drawing 
down  upon  it  again  the  wrath  of  its  powerful  suzerain. 

A  third  siege  took  place  in  1251,  and  terminated  in 
the  complete  defeat  of  the  Yentimiglian  forces  on  the 
Cape  of  St.  Ampelio ;  upon  which  occasion  the  Genoese 
razed  to  the  ground  the  strong  fort  which  stood  on  this 
point,  and  which  some  writers  mention  under  the  title  of 
Castmm  mutimiliense,  a  word  which  is  probably  an  acci- 
dental variation,  a  clerical  error  perhaps,  of  Virdimiliense, 
This  town  also  bore  the  name  of  the  Monastery  of  St. 
Benedict,  and  served  as  a  sort  of  resting-place  or  half-way 
house  for  the  monks  of  Lerins  in  their  maritime  com- 
munications with  their  possession  of  Seborga,  of  which  I 
shall  have  to  speak  further  on. 

In  taking  leave  of  this  period  of  the  history  of  Venti- 
miglia we  must  consider  it  as  a  Genoese  possession ;  for 
the  Counts— the  family  having  greatly  increased,  and 
divided  amongst  themselves  the  various  villages  and 
strong  castles  scattered  over  the  county— were  but  little 
more  than  petty  lords,  who  placed  their  services  and  their 
followers  at  the  disposal  of  any  warring  prince— for  a  con- 
sideration! Unfortunately,  however,  union  with  Genoa 
was  far  from  proving  the  commencement  of  a  period  of 
prosperity  to  this  unhappy  people,  whose  position  as  a 
frontier-town  exposed  them  to  continual  dangers.  During 
the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth  centuries  Ventimiglia  was 


ir 

/ 


88 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


SAN   REMO   IN   THE   MIDDLE   AGES. 


89 


contiEually  the  toy  of  the  varying  fortunes  of  war,  in 
the  struggles  of  the  Guelplis  and  Ghibelins ;  it  passed  even 
for  a  short  time  into  the  hands  of  Ladislas,  King  of  Naples, 
but  Genoa  quickly  took  possession  again;  whilst  about 
the  year  1388,  Amadeus  YII.  of  Savoy  made  a  long  and 
ineffectual  siege  of  the  town,  which,  however,  remained 
faithful  to  the  Kepublic. 

I  cannot  follow  further  the  especial  history  of  Venti- 
midia.  The  more  modern  events  which  occurred  in  this 
interesting  town  will  be  found  in  the  chapters  relating  to 
the  foundation  of  Bordighera,  and  the  development  of  the 
Confederation  of  the  Eiglit  Towns. 


CHAFTEK  VI. 

SAN   REMO   IN   THE   MIDDLE   AUES. 

Depredatiuns  of  the  Saracens — Rukiuf  the  Archbusliwps  of  Geiiuu— Sale 
to  two  Counts — Taken  by  D'Oria  auJ  sale  to  Genoa — lio/iLuluii 
becomes  Rem  us. 

Situated  at  the  bottom  of  a  wide  gulf,  without  natural 
protection  and  without  strategic  importance,  owing  to  the 
fact  that  no  valley  of  any  size  opens  in  its  neighbourhood, 
the  history  of  San  Kemo  is  far  from  offerino;  as  interestin^r 
a  picture  of  striking  events  and  dramatic  adventures  as 
that  I  have  just  been  recounting. 

The  Saracens  devastated  Matuta  over  and  over  ao:ain  in 
the  nintli  and  tenth  centuries,  but  after  their  comj)lete 
defeat  and  expulsion   from   the   Fmximts*  which  they 

*  For  eiplanation  of  the  "Fraiiiiets.  "  of  the  Saracens,  scf  cliaj..  viii. 


I 


possessed  on  the  coast  by  William,  Count  of  Provence,  in 
972,  a  Villa  Matutiana,  loco  Sancti  Bomuli,  was  con- 
structed through  the  influence  of  Theodolphus,  Bishop  of 
Genoa.  This  town  originally  formed  part  of  the  "  county  " 
of  Ventimiglia,  but  in  1038,  the  Count  Conrad,  submitting 
to  the  pressure  exercised  by  his  suzerain,  the  Emperor 
Conrad  II.,  signed  a  convention  by  which  he  renounced 
in  favour  of  the  Bishop  of  Genoa  (who  was  also  named 
Conrad)  all  his  rights  over  the  new  city :  "  omnibus  rebus 
.  .  .  qum  sunt  positm  in  comitatu  Vigintimiliense,  in  locos  et 
fundos  ipsius  loci  Sancti  BomuU."* 

During  the  rule  of  the  archbishops,  St.  Romulus 
governed  itself  almost  as  if  it  had  been  a  free  town.  Its 
distance  from  Genoa,  the  difficulties  of  communication, 
and  the  embarrassment  which  continued  political  com- 
plications caused  in  the  diocese  (raised  to  the  rank  of  an 
archbishopric  in  1135),  practically  limited  the  interven- 
tion of  the  archbishop  to  the  nomination  of  consuls,  to 
the  levying  of  certain  assessments  or  annual  taxes,  and  to 
the  exaction  of  an  oath  of  fidelity  in  the  Church  of  St. 
Syrus,  patron  of  the  city,  which  the  Cintracus  took  every 
^\e  years  in  the  name  of  the  people. 

But  the  temporal  and  spiritual  powers  did  not  manage 
to  pull  along  together  in  this  little  town  in  the  Middle 
Ages  better  than  they  have  done  in  our  ow^n  times  in  far 
more  important  States.  Two  opposing  factions  soon  formed 
themselves,  followed  by  intestine  struggles  which  paralysed 
all  authority,  and  checked  public  prosperity,  until  at  last 
the  archbishop  himself  decided  most  wisely  to  dispose  of 
a  possession  which  it  was  neither  possible  to  govern  be- 
comingly nor  which  gave  back  anything  for  all  his  care. 

*  Rossi—Storia  delta  Ciita  d'l  San  liemo. 


90 


LOCAL  HI8T0BY. 


In  1297,  therefore,  the  archbishop  obtained  from 
Boniface  VIII.  a  Bull,  which  authorised  him  to  sell  St. 
Eomulus  and  Ceriana, — eastra  Sandi  Bomuli  ei  Celianse,— 
to  two  Genoese  nobles,  Hubert  d'Oria  and  George  de 
Mari,  for  the  sum  of  three  thousand  Genoese  livres  (about 
13,000?.).  These  two  counts  did  not  long  enjoy  in  peace 
their  common  possession.  The  D'Orias  declared  for  the 
Gliibelins  and  tlie  De  Mari  for  the  Guelphs,  and  this  in- 
volved this  unhappy  commune  in  the  great  struggle  of 
these  two  powerful  factions.  Later  on,  one  of  the  D'Orias 
found  himself  sole  ruler  of  St.  Eomulus,  but  he  was  dis- 
lodged by  Robert,  King  of  Naples,  who  installed  there 
one  Cosmo  de  Mari  as  his  lieutenant. 

But  in  1330,  Antonio  D*Oria,  who  commanded  the  naval 
forces  of  the  Ghibelins  on  this  coast,  drove  out  the  Guelphs 
and  took  possession  of  the  commune,  which  he  sold  to  the 
Genoese  Republic  for  a  sum  total,  paid  in  many  instal- 
ments and  to  various  creditors,  of  fifteen  thousand  fise 
hundred  and  fifty  Genoese  livres,  or  nearly  16,000/. 
sterling. 

The  final  union  with  the  Republic  was  signed  on  the 
15th  of  March,  1361,  in  the  Bmilica  of  St.  Lawrence  at 
Genoa. 

Some  little  time  after  this,  but  at  any  rate  during  the 
fifteenth  century,  the  name  of  St.  Romulus  was  changed 
for  St.  Remus,  but  there  exists  no  satisfactory  explanation 
for  this  transformation ;  M.  Elisee  Reclus,  in  his  Villes 
d'Hiver  de  la  Mediterranee  states  that  the  inhabitants  of 
the  first  St.  Romulus,  which  occupied  the  site  of  Matuta, 
sought  refuge,  after  the  pillage  of  their  town  by  the 
Saracens,  on  a  steep  hill,  where  they  constructed  a  new 
St.  Romulus,  surrounded  by  walls,  but  that    when  the 


ii 


» 


SAN    REMO   IN   THE   MIDDLE   AGES. 


91 


danger  of  these  barbarous  occurrences  had  become  less 
imminent,  viz.  in  973,  some  citizens  of  St.  Romulus 
descended  into  the  plains  and  founded  on  the  site  of 
ancient  Matuta  a  new  town,  to  which  they  gave  the  name 
of  St.  Bemus,  in  order  to  show  the  kinship  of  these  two 
neighbouring  cities. 

This  hypothesis  carries  with  it  a   certain   amount  of 
probability,  the  more  so  as  the  name  of  San  Bomolo  is  still 
to  be  found  associated  with  a  little  hamlet,  built  upon  a 
steep  hill,  some  hours  distant  from  San  Remo ;  but  it  is 
supported  by  no  proof  whatever  by  M.  Reclus,  and  one 
would  like  to  know  something  of  the  facts  upon  which  he 
bases  his  theory,  for  the  local  historians  make  no  mention 
whatever  of  it.    That,  however,  which  proves  that  it  could 
not  have  been  as  he  suggests,  is  the  fact  that  the  town 
which  was  erected  upon  the  ruins  of  Matuta  bore  officially 
and  continuously  the  name  of  St.  Romulus—ZocMS— and 
later  on  Castruni  and  oj^pidum  Sancti  Bomuli,  up  to  the 
period  to  which  we  have  now  arrived.     Local  historians, 
both  Professor  Rossi  and  the  Abbe  Grosso,  attribute  the 
change  from  Bomulus  to  Bemus  to  a  simple  modification 
of  th'e  word,  due  to  the  influences  exercised  on  the  pro- 
nunciation of  Latin  in  this  part  of  Italy  by  the  irruption 
of  the  Goths.     They  would  at  first  shorten  the  name  to 
Bomus,  and  later  on  the  pronunciation  of  the  o  would 
insensibly  approach  that  of  e* 

The  odd  result  of  this  transformation  is,  that  it  has  given 
successively  to  the  same  town,  the  names  of  the  two 

*  Such  changes  are  common  enough  in  the  names  of  English  towns  and 
villages,  the  natural  tendency  to  shorten  a  word  being  the  most  frequent 
cause:  Bnghton,  from  the  Saxon  Brighthelmston,  being  a  fair  example,  tor 
further  explanations  see  chap,  xv.— A.  C.  D. 


THE    FIEF   OF   SEBOKGA. 


93 


92 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


brothers  who  founded  Rome,  and  yet  in  all  probability 
this  fact  is,  extraordinary  as  it  may  appear,  absolutely  the 
merest  aod  most  accidental  coincidence. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE   FIEF   OF   SEBORGA. 

Controversies  on  the  subject  of  cessi<tn  of  Seborga  to  the  Abbey  of 
L(?riiis — Act  settling  boundaries  with  Ventimiglia  in  1177 — Other 
l)Ossessions  of  Lerins  in  tlie  neigh l>ourliood — The  Abbey  coins  money 
at  Seborga — Act  of  assigtiincnt  of  IGO';— Act  of  confiscation  of  168G 
— Negociations  for  sale  with  Genoa — Final  sale  to  tlie  House  of 
Savoy. 

The  little  village  of  Sehorga,  Sehorca,  or  Sahoiirg  (the 
Eoraaii  Septdchrum),  whicli  forms  to-day  a  commune  of  the 
canton  of  Bordighera,  was  formerly  a  portion  of  the 
"  county  "  of  Ventimiglia,  remaining  so,  as  did  the  rest  of 
the  district,  up  to  the  commencement  of  feudal  times,  to 
be  detached  later  on,  and  become  a  possession  of  the 
powerful  Abbey  of  Lerins.  This  fact  is  incontestable :  that 
which  is  less  so  is  the  title  in  pursuance  of  which  the  Lerins 
Monastery  arrogated  to  itself  tlie  sovereignty  of  the  district 
and  the  period  to  which  this  sovereignty  continued.  At 
the  end  of  an  old  document  drawn  up  in  the  form  of  a  will, 
a  certain  Guide  Guerra,  Count  of  Ventimiglia,  wishing  to 
secure  the  repose  of  his  soul  before  departing  to  figlit 
against  the  Saracens  in  954,  bequeathed  JSeborga  to  the 
monks  of  St.  Honorat:  Castrum  de  septdchro  cum  mero 
et  lihero  imperio,  cum  ejus  halitatorihus  et  ierritorio  .  .  . 
propri  ynei  juris  do  et  lego  pro   septdchro  meo  et  anima 


\ 


wk 

I 


mea  et  parentum  meorum*  This  document  is,  however, 
treated  as  apocryphal  by  almost  all  the  historians  and 
archa}ologists  who  have  interested  themselves  in  this  ques- 
tion. According  to  Gioffredo,  the  fraud  dates  from  the 
year  1446,  and  was  the  work  of  a  monk  of  the  abbey, 
George  by  name,  belonging  to  the  family  of  the  Counts 
of  Ventimiglia,  who,  as  a  clever  modern  critic  says,  "  had 
acquired  a  certain  celebrity  for  this  kind  of  work."  t 

That  the  "  county  "  of  Ventimiglia  existed,  however,  at 
the  period  in  question,  is  without  doubt.     The  historian 
Rossi  has  observed  with  perfect  justice  that  if  it  is  true,  on 
the  one  side,  that  we  do  not  possess  any  authentic  document 
that  speaks  of  a  Count  of  Ventimiglia  before  the  year  1000,^ 
it  is  equally  true  on  the  other,  that  the  Liher  Jurium  of 
Genoa  beai^  witness  to  a  petition  of  Bishop  Theodolphus, 
dated  the  year  962,  on  the  subject  of  certain  lands  situated 
in  comitatu  vigintimiUense,     Bnt  if  the  "  county  "  existed 
there  would  also  have  been  a  titular  count ;  it  is  therefore 
possible  that  Guido  Guerra  was  a  real  personage,  and  the 
actual  author  of  the  will  which  has  been  attributed  to  him. 
I  venture,  however,  to  suggest  as  an  argument  in  support 
of  the  contrary  view,  that  an  act  of  division  of  the  lands  of 
Ventimiglia  and  Seborga  in  1177,  drawn  up  between  the 
Consuls  and  the  Benedictine  Fathers  of  Lerins,  speaks 
with  great  distinctness  of  a  then  living  and  a  real  Guido 
Guerra  as  titular  count.     A  legacy  by  will  in  954,  and  a 
formal  gift  with  definition  of  boundaries  two  centuries 
later,  but  both  by  two  counts  of  similar  names,  is,  to  say 
the  least,  a  suspicious  circumstance,  and  of  a  nature  to 

*  Rossi — Storia  di  Vcntimujlia. 

t  Paper  read  by  M.  A.  Carlone  at  the  Congres  Scientifique  de  France  at 

Nice,  in  18G6. 


I»:# 


THE   FIEF   OF   SEBORGA. 


95 


94 


LOCAL  HISTOKY. 


suggest  serious  doubts  as  to  the  authenticity  of  the  earlier 

document. 

A  forger  not  blessed  witli  a  vivid  imagination,  but 
fearinjr,  for  reasons  more  or  less  avowed,  that  the  posses- 
sion  of  Seborga  by  his  convent  might  one  day  be  disputed, 
and  wishing  to  protect  this  possession  from  all  controversy 
and  invest  it  witli  the  authority  of  age,  would  iiiid  nothing 
easier  than  to  attribute  a  gift  so  ancient  to  the  name  of 
one  who  had  actually  existed.  And  he  would  avoid  detec- 
tion up  to  a  certain  point :  for  tlie  gift  w x.uld  always  liave 
been  signed  by  Guido  Guerra ;  the  period  alone  would  bo 
changed.  At  any  rate,  he  may  have  been  able  to  put  upon 
a  wrong  scent  the  critics  of  the  fifteenth  century. 

Whatever  may  have  been  the  ease,  this  at  least  is 
certain,  that  the  fief  belonged  to  the  abbey  by  right  or 
by  usurpation  prior  to  the  act  defining  the  boundaries  in 
1177,  which  implied  less  a  gift  than  the  regulation  of  a 
previously  existing  state  of  things. 

Others,  however,  of  the  reverend  fathers  had  already 
been  attracted  to  the  neiglibourhood.  They  possessed 
the  Castrum  Vintimiliense  on  the  Capo  of  St.  Ampelio ; 
in  1041  Count  Otho  (?)  had  given  them  the  Monastery  of 
St.  Michael  at  Ventimiglia;  his  son  had  added,  in  1080, 
the  Church  of  St.  Blary  at  Canolese ;  and  finally,  in  1092, 
the  Bishop  of  Ventimiglia  gave  up  to  them  that  of  St. 
Mary  of  Saorgio. 

This  powerful  abbey  had,  moreover,  a  strong  ten  lency  to 
push  forward  and  colonize,  and  there  is  nothing  astonishing 
in  their  coveting  this  little  fief,  even  independently  of  the 
practice  they  afterwards  followed  there.  This  practice 
was  coining  money. 

We  are   ignorant   at   what    period    this    enterprising 


monastery  commenced  to  make  use  of  that  most  sovereign 
of  rights,  and  which  had  perhaps  been  exercised  secretly 
from  a  very  remote  date,  thanks  to  the  possession  of  an 
insignificant  village  hidden  amongst  the  mountains,  and 
where  no  traveller  ever  cared  to  wander.  One  is  there- 
fore well  able  to  understand  the  anxiety  of  these  reverend 
fathers  to  assure  to  themselves  by  every  means  in  their 
power  their  sovereignty  of  the  fief 

The  monks,  however,  did  not  always  carry  on  this 
work  of  coining  gold  and  silver  pieces  themselves;  they 
farmed  it  out  to  manufacturers:  but  only  one  of  their 
acts  of  assignment  has  been  preserved  to  us.  It  is  dated 
the  24th  of  December,  1666,  and  had  been  drawn  up  by  a 
M.  Jean  De  Luc,  Notaire  Hereditaire  at  Cannes. 

This  deed  is  a  concession  in  favour  of  one  Bareste  of 
Mougins  for  four  years,  in  consideration  of  an  annual 
rent  of  1500  livres,  payable  in  half-yearly  instalments, 
and  authorised  the  grantee : 

"  To  coin  gold  pieces,  large  and  small,  and  to  sell  them  in  the 
countries  of  the  Levant  with  the  stamp  and  arms  of  the  said  monastery, 
of  the  same  weight  and  quality  as  those  now  circulating,  and  all  the 
»aid  pieces  of  money  which  shall  be  made  at  the  said  mint  of  the 
quality  of  seven  standard-fine,  at  the  least,  and  the  gold  pieces  which 
shall  also  be  coined  at  the  said  mint  shall  be  of  18  carat  fine 
gold ;  to  which  the  said  Bareste  binds  Limself.  Moreover,  the  said 
Reverend  Fathers,  as  named,  also  give  permission  and  a  faculty  to  the 
said  Bareste  to  coin  in  tlie  said  mint  pieces  of  five  sols  and  other  pieces 
of  silver  common  to  the  countries  of  the  Levant,  with  the  same  stamp 
and  arms  as  above,  and  of  the  same  standard  and  quality  of  those  above 
mentioned  ;  further,  that  he  can  coin  the  said  pieces  in  such  quantity 
as  he  pleases,  by  day  or  night,  by  coining  press  or  hammer,  as  may 
seem  good  to  him,  «&c." 

At  the  Museum  of  Vienna  are  still  to  be  found  some 
specimens  of  these  gold  pieces  struck  at  Seborga ;   they 


96 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


4 

i 


bear  the  dates  of  1066  and  1686  with  the  effi.y  of  the 
Monastery  of  Lerin.,  sormoooted  by  a  mitre,  and 
inscription,  Deus  et  ormmentmn  ecdestie 

But  the  mint  at  Seborga  was  destined  to  a  sad  enclin^, 
and  at  the  moment  of  its  greatest  prosperity. 

The  administration  of  the  abbey,  eitln  r  too  absorbed 
in  commercial  and  agricultural  works  to  occupy  itself  with 
nuestions  of  eonseience,  or  finding  that  the  Protectants 
iere  better  workmen  than  the  Catholics,  committed,  at  a 
certain  period  of  their  history,  the  mistake  ot  forming 
the  establishment  at  Seborga  to  a  Huguenot  contractor. 
This  was  indeed  a  blunder  from  the  point  of  view  of  those 
most  interested,  occurring,  as  it  did,  in  the  reign  of  a  cruel 
and   arro-ant   monarch,  who   allowed    himself  to   be  so 
blinded  b^  the  flatteries  of  a  Jesuit  without  conscience,  as 
to  devote  five  hundred  tliousand  of  the  worthiest  of  his 
subjects  to  exile,  to  slaughter,  and  to  persecution  of  the 
most  revolting  character.  ^ 

The  Revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes  was  signed  on 
the  22nd  of  October,  1685,  and  was  followed  by  a  series 
of  vexatious  measnr.  s,  which  the  most  despotic  govern- 
ment of  our  own  days  would  blush  at:  they  order..!  the 
demolition  of  the  cliundies  and  the  schools  of  tbe  Tro- 
testants,  they  took  from  them  their  children,  they  forbad 
their  lawyers  from  practising :  they  forbad  them  employ- 
iBg  or  serving  other  than  Catholics,  and  they  dispatched 
th^  dragoons  of  Baville  in  pursuit  of  the  recalcitrants! 
In  the  midst,  then,  of  such  a  state  of  things,  who  could 
hope  that  a  Protestant  manager  would  be  tolerated  in  an 
establishment  which  was   considered  to   be   situated  on 
French  territory,  since  it  belonged  by  sovereign  right  of 
possession  to  a  French  monastery  ? 


THE   FIEF   OF    SEBORGA. 


97 


The  decree,  given  below,  and  which  was  issued  eight 
months  after  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  is 
a  proof  that  the  bloodhounds  of  Letellier  were  not 
sleeping : — 

"  It  having  been  represented  to  the  King,  in  Council,  that  one  Dabic 
by  name,  a  tradesman  of  the  town  of  Nimes,  of  the  R.P.R.*  who  has 
lived  for  some  time  past  at  Sabourg,  a  dependency  of  the  monastery  of 
Saint  Honorat,  at  Lerins,  and  has  there  coined  money  in  pursuance  of  a 
lease  which  had  been  granted  him  for  a  term  of  three  years  by  the 
administration  of  the  said  abbey,  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  hundred  livres 
per  annum  :  and  as,  by  the  same  lease,  it  is  allowed  to  the  said  Dabic 
on  the  part  of  the  monks  to  worship  according  to  his  own  faith,  and 
to  have  with  him  such  number  of  friends  and  workmen  as  may  seem 
good  to  him,  which  things  his  Majesty  desires  to  alter  :— 

"  The  King,  in  Council,  has  broken  and  annulled  the  said  lease,  as 
also  all  other  leases,  general  and  particular,  of  the  farms  and  depend- 
encies of  Sabourg  made  to  the  contractors  of  the  R.P.R.  by  the  abbots 
and  monks  of  the  said  Abbey  of  Saint  Honorat  of  Le'rins,  whom  His 
Majesty  expressly  forbids  and  inhibits  from  letting  the  said  properties 
to  others  than  Catholics,  or  to  give  shelter  to  these  heretics  ;  neither  to 
continue  any  longer  the  coining  of  money  at  the  said  town  of  Sabourg 
upon  any  pretence  whatever;  in  case  of  disobedience  to  which  His 
Majesty  has  commanded  that  proceedings  shall  instantly  be  taken  by 
LeSieur  Mozant,  Intendant  of  Justice,  Police,  and  Finance  in  Provence, 
wlio  has  been  enjoined  to  carry  out  the  execution  of  the  present  decree, 
and  which  shall  not  be  delayed  in  spite  of  any  opposition  or  appeal 
whatever.  Made  at  the  Council  of  State,  before  His  Majesty  the  King, 
at  Versailles,  the  1st  of  July,  1086. 

"  (Signed)        Colbert."  f 

This  decree,  as  we  see,  did  not  only  forbid  coining  of 
money  by  Protestants:  it  suppressed  the  establishment 
itself  by  a  stroke  of  the  pen,  and  was  the  punishment 
which  the  liberality  of  the  abbey  had  attracted  to  itself. 

*  Religion  Protestante  Kc'form^e. 

t  I  am  indebted  for  the  text  of  this  decree,  as  also  for  the  act  of  assignment, 
to  a  M€inoire  sur  unc  episode  de  Vhistoire  du  Monastere  de  St  Honorat,  read  at 
the  Congres  Scientifique  de  France  at  Nice,  in  1866,  by  M.  Oallois-Montbrun. 

H 


98 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


99 


From  this  time  the  possession  of  Seborga  became 
a  source  of  loss  ratlier  than  profit  to  the  monastery,  and 
measures  were  at  once  commenced  for  getting  rid  of  it. 
Negotiations  were  opened  with  the  Republic  of  Genoa, 
but  at  the  moment  when  they  had  agreed  to  sell  for  a 
large  sum  to  be  paid  in  hard  cash,  Victor  Amadeus  II., 
Duke  of  Savoy,  placed  his  veto  on  the  transaction  in  his 
capacity  as  Vicar  of  the  Empire.*  This  was  evidently  a 
pretext.  Victor  Amadeus  desired  himself  to  become  the 
possessor  of  Seborga,  which  he  finally  bouglit,  in  1697,  for 
the  sum  of  20,000  crowns.  The  house  of  Savoy  retained 
the  fief  definitely,  but  the  price  was  never  paid. 


CHAPTEK  VIII. 

THE  PRINCIPALITY  OF   MONACO. 

Monaco  after  the  Roman  epoch— The  /^'raxme^s— Vicissitudes  nntil 
1792— Annexation  to  France— The  Restoration  of  1814— Republic  of 
Mentone  and  Roquebrnne— Annexation  of  1860— The  gambling 
tables. 

The  history  of  the  vicissitudes  of  Monaco  is  not  especially 
interesting  from  the  point  of  view  of  the  historian  of 
Bordighera,  but  the  two  localities  are  too  near  to  one 
another,  and  the  splendid  establishment  which  now  exists 

*  Leopold  I.  was  Emperor  of  Geiinany,  but  the  Western  Empire  of  feudal 
times  existed  only  in  name.  However,  the  right  of  the  Emperor  and  his 
Vicars  to  forbid  such  cessions  of  territory  as  were  (lisi)leasing  to  them  was,  it 
appears,  perfectly  legal.  Until  the  re-arrangement  of  the  map  of  Europe, 
which  followed  the  French  Revolution,  these  cessions  were  sheltered  under 
the  formula,  Salva  fidelitate  domini  imperatoris. 


in  the  Principality  plays  too  important  a  part  in  the 
midst  of  our  winter  resorts  to  allow  us  to  pass  the  place 
over  without  a  word.  So  in  this  chapter  I  will  give  a 
glance  at  the  history  of  Monaco  from  the  commencement 
of  the  Middle  Ages  to  the  present  time,  in  order  that  we 
may  not  have  to  return  again  to   so  unsympathetic  a 

subject. 

From  the  death  of  Charlemagne  until  about  the  tenth 
century,  the  Rock  of  Monaco  was  occupied  by  the 
Saracens.  It  constituted  (as  did  also  the  Portus  Olivulm, 
now  Villefranche,  and  another  place  in  the  Gulf  of 
Sambracie,  perhaps  San  Tropez)  one  of  their  Fraxinets  * 
or  fortified  forts,  from  whence  they  issued  forth  upon 
their  piratical  expeditions  to  pillage  both  friends  and 
enemies  throughout  the  Western  Mediterranean.  The 
Genoese,  after  they  had  taken  posession  of  it  in  1215, 
laid  the  foundations  of  the  present  castle  and  the  existing 
fortifications.  From  this  point  Monaco  became  a  fortified 
place  of  great  importance,  and  wJiilst  nominally  belonging 
to  various  branches  of  the  Grimaldi  family,  was  wrangled 
over,  besieged,  taken,  retaken  and  occasionally  occupied 
by  all  the  various  parties  who  have  waged  war  in  these 
parts.  In  1789,  when  the  great  revolution  burst  over 
France,  the  three  Communes  of  Port  Hercules,  Roque- 
brnne and  Mentone  were  under  the  sceptre  of  a 
prince  who  had  lived  almost  continually  in  Paris,  viz., 

Honor^  III. 

The  breath  of  liberty  was  not  long  in  blowing  upon 

*  The  word  Fraxinetum  signifies  a  forest  of  ash.  It  is  hence  very  probable 
that  the  first  aud  chief  naval  establishment  of  the  Saracens  was  on  the  Gulf 
of  Sambracie,  where  the  flat  and  wooded  coasts,  far  more  than  those  of  Monaco 
and  Villefranche,  suggest  the  name  in  question. 

H   2 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


101 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


this  microscopic  State,  and  as  early  as  1790,  deputa- 
tions were  sent  to  Paris  demanding  a  representative 
government.  Honore  refused,  which  lead  to  a  revolu- 
tion at   Monaco  as  soon  as  the  French  army  crossed 

the  Var. 

A  "National  Convention "  of  the  Principality  addressed 
in  1792  a  petition  to  the  Convention  of  Paris  for  union 
with  France,  and  the  decree  of  annexation  appeared  on 
the  15th  February,  1793.  From  that  time  up  to  the 
Eestoration  in  1814  Monaco  partook  of  all  the  vicissitudes 
of  tlie  Republic  and  the  Empire. 

On  the  drawing  up  of  the  Treaty  of  Paris  in  1814,  this 
little  Principality  seemed  to  have  been  forgotten,  but 
Talleyrand  recollected  it  at  the  last  moment,  and 
added  at  the  end  of  an  article  ..."  And  the  Prince  of 
Monaco  shall  be  restored  to  his  dominions."  (Et  le  Prime 
de  Monaco  sera  reintegre  dans  ses  etats,) 

The  Protectorate  of  France,  which  dated  from  a  con- 
vention concluded  with  Louis  XIII.  in  1641,  was  main- 
tained until  the  Treaty  of  Vienna  in  1815,  but  in  1817 
the  Principality  placed  itself  under  the  protection  of  the 
kingdom  of  Sardinia  by  the  Treaty  of  Stupinigi.  A 
convention,  concluded  at  the  same  time,  granted  to  the 
Sardinian  Government  the  salt  and  tobacco  monopoly, 
the  extradition  of  criminals,  and  the  administration  of 
the  postal  service. 

Honore  V.  succeeded  his  father  and  grandfather  of  the 
same  name  and  followed  in  their  footsteps.  His  reign  was 
characterised  by  exactions  of  such  severity  that  before 
long  they  completely  paralysed  the  life  of  the  country. 
The  working  of  oil  mills,  the  manufacture  of  bread  and 
pdies  alimentaires  (macaroni  and  the  like),  and  also  of 


\ 


gunpowder  and  fire-arms  and  a  large  number  of  other 
industries,  became  state  monopolies. 

The  productions  of  the  country  were  hampered  by 
enormous  exports  which  provoked,  in  a  spirit  of  reprisal 
on  the  part  of  France  and  the  Sardinian  Governments, 
the  enforcement  of  import  duties  equally  burdensome ; 
all  of  which  rendered  impossible  the  exportation  of  any 
of  the  local  productions. 

Such  a  state  of  things  could  not,  however,  have  lasted 
for  any  length  of  time,  even  if  the  revolutionary  whirl- 
wind which  was  blowing  over  Italy,  owing  to  the  tem- 
porary liberalism  of  Pius  the  IX.  in  1847,  had  not  led  to 
the  freedom  of  Mentone  and  Roquebrune. 

The  agitation  which  began  at  the  end  of  this  year 
ended  on  the  21st  of  March,  1848,  by  a  declaration  of 
independence.  From  that  time,  in  spite  of  their  desire 
to  be  annexed  to  Piedmont,  these  two  continued  happily 
as  a  Republic,  under  the  protection  of  Sardinia, 
until   the  plebiscite  of  1860,  when  they  were  united  to 

France. 

This  annexation  was  legalised  from  the  "  Divine  Right" 
point  of  view,  by  the  payment  of  a  sum  of  four  million 
francs  (160,000Z.)  by  tlie  Imperial  Government  of  France 
to  Prince  Charles  III.  The  Rock  of  Monaco  and  a 
narrow  strip  of  barren  laud  on  the  slope  of  the  Tete  de 
Chien  and  the  Agel :  in  other  words,  a  territory  about 
two  miles  long,  varying  from  150  to  1000  feet  in 
breadth,  and  inhabited  by  a  little  over  1200  souls,  is 
now  all  that  remains  to  the  oldest  reigning  family  in 

Europe! 

So  small  a  domain  and  so  scanty  a  population  could 
not,  it  is  evident,  furnish  to  Charles  III.  the  enormous 


102 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE    PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


103 


revenues  that  his  predecessors  had  been  able  to  draw 
from  the  ahnost  tropical  gaidens  of  Koquebrune  and  the 
fertile  valleys  of  Mentone. 

But  the  Grimakli  dynasty  was  not  destined  to  depart 
from  its  old  ways,  and  it  was  reserved  to  the  Prince  to 
fulfil  once  more,  and  even  by  more  startling  means,  the  old 
popular  saying  of  his  hereditary  rock  : 

"  Son  Monaco  sopra  iino  scoglio, 
noQ  semi  no  e  non  raccoglio, 
eppiir  maogiar  voglio !  ** 

"  I,  Monaco,  sit  perclied  where  billows  rave, 
upon  a  rock.     Alas!  no  harvest's  wave 
for  me  ;  I  sow  nor  reap,  yet  footl  I  crave.' 


J.  Y. 


The  Fraxinet  of  the  Saracen  pirates  was  a  legend  of  the 
past;  the  Genoese  adventurers,  who  had  made  the  im- 
pregnable fortress  of  Monaco  the  headquarters  of  their 
depredations  for  a  hundred  leagues  around,  were  now  but 
matters  of  history ;  the  monopoly  of  cereals  and  all  the 
iniquitous  exactions  of  the  reign  of  Honore  V.  were  no  longer 
possible  after  the  fiscal  arrangements  with  France ;  but, 
as,  with  Monaco,  whatever  else  might  alter,  the  necessity 
of  living  upon  others  still  remained,  it  became  necessary 
to  discover  a  new  source  of  revenue,  which,  in  spite  of  ail 
change  of  times  and  manners,  might  keep  up  their  old 
traditions.  For  Roulette  was  coming:  a  dazzling  and 
fascinating  snare  was  to  be  spread  out  before  the  honest 
fools,  as  well  as  the  dishonest  knaves  of  the  whole  world ; 
a  contrivance  which,  thanks  to  the  enormous  sums  it 
would  give  to  the  State,  would  make  in  a  short  time  the 
inhabitants  of  the  rocky  town  the  happiest,  so  far  as  their 
matm'ial  life  is  concerned,  of  any  people  under  the  sun ; 


1 


\ 


for  without  conscription,  without  taxes  of  any  kind,  the 
Monegasques  of  the  present  day  have  nothing  to  do  but 
to  enjoy  the  shower  of  golden  rain  which  falls  upon  them 

unceasingly. 

The  Casino  of  Monte  Carlo,  which  was  fated  to  exercise 
so  great  an  influence  on  the  future  of  the  Principality, 
owes  its  origin  to  a  rebuff  received  in  185G  by  certain 
speculators,  who  conceived  the  idea  of  starting  some  public 
gaming  tables  and  forming  a  grand  establishment  for 
that  purpose  on  the  Promenade  des  Anglais  at  Nice. 

But  the  Sardinian  Government,  to  its  great  credit  be 
it  said,  was  inexorable,  and  instead  of  giving  the  desired 
permission  to  open  a  gambling  Casino  at  Nice,  they 
suppressed  that  which  already  existed  at  Aix  les  Bains. 

In  the  face  of  this  unexpected  refusal,  the  interested 
parties  addressed  themselves  to  His  Highness,  Charles  III., 
who  showed  himself  far  more  amenable  and  gave  the 
desired  authorisation  for  thirty  years. 

The  gaming  tables  were  opened  to  the  public  at  once 
in  a  house  of  a  very  modest  character  on  the  Place  du 
Chateau,  whence  they  soon  removed  to  the  Condamine 
returning    again   a   little    later   to  the   upper    town  ot 

Monaco. 

But  these  establishments  were  purely  of  a  temporary 
character,  for  it  was  specially  laid  down  in  the  Concession 
granted  to  the  promoters  of  the  scheme,  that  the  Casino 
was  to  be  built  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  east 
of  Monaco,  on  the  tableland  called  SfMugues,  to  which 
Charles  III.  gave,  in  his  own  honour,  the  name  of  «  Monte 

The  building  was  commenced  in  the  spring  of  1858, 
but  funds  were  wanting  to  finish  it  quickly  :  besides  the 


104 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


105 


promoters  ^vere  disappoiBted ;  the  sclieme,  so  far,  bad  not 
answered  their  expectations. 

The  indifferent  success  of  an  institution  which  had 
elsewhere  always  been  the  speediest  road  to  a  fortune,  is 
not  difficult  to  explain,  considering  the  many  obstacles 
with  which  it  had  to  contend  during  the  days  of  its 
infancy.  The  fitting-up  of  the  Casino  was  far  from 
satisfactory,  and  its  frequent  removals  were  most  un- 
fa vtmrable  to  its  development. 

But  the  greatest  obstacle  of  all  consisted  in  the  inac- 
cessibility of  Monaco.  To  reacli  it  from  Nice  it  was 
necessary  to  go  by  carriage  along  the  Cornice  Koad  (and 
its  most  elevated  section)  by  Turbia  and  Roquebrune,  a 
journey  of  at  least  four  hours,  or  else  attempt  it  by  sea  in 
the  small  steamers,  for  which  the  weather  might  not 
always  be  favourable. 

To  make  the  Casino  at  Monte  Carlo  the  brilliant 
establishment  which  it  has  now  become,  two  things  were 
necessary — a  large  cajntal  and  the  opening  of  the  railway 
from  Nice  to  Monaco.  But  for  these  two  elements  of 
success  it  had  not  long  to  wait. 

The  German  Goverimients  decided  on  suppressing  the 
gambling  establislmients  on  the  Khine,  tliu>!  forcing  their 
proprietors  to  seek  new  theatres  where  they  might  carry 
on  their  immoral  pursuits ;  and  thus  it  happened  that  at 
the  commencement  of  1860  M.  Francois  Blanc,  who  had 
leased  the  tables  at  Homburg,  arrived  at  Monaco  and 
purchased  the  privileges  and  properties  of  the  then  exist- 
ing company  for  the  sum  of  1,700,000  francs  (68,000/.) 
payable  in  cash. 

The  buikiings  were  then  quickly  finished,  and  the 
opening  of  the  railway  in  1868,  reducing  the  journey  to 


\ 


forty   minutes,   practically   made   Monaco   a  suburb  of 

Nice. 

From  that   time   millions   have  flowed  into  the  cash- 
boxes  of  the  lessee,  allowing  him  to  expend  money  on  all 
sides  with  a  prodigal  hand ;  thanks  to  which  the  Casino 
at  Monte  Carlo  has  become  as  we  see  it  now,  an  establish- 
ment unique  in  its  luxury  and  splendour,  as  in  the  suffer- 
ing it  draws  down  upon  those  brought  under  its  influence. 
It  remains  to  be  seen,  however,  to  what  extent  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Principality  have  cause  to  congratulate 
themselves  on  harbouring  so  colossal  and  dangerous  an 
institution  on  their  territory :  it  is  hardly  likely,  we  fear, 
to  turn  out  the  case  of  that  referred  to  in  Scripture  of 
those  who  "  entertained  an  angel  unawares."     Putting  on 
one  side  all  considerations  of  morality  and  viewing  for  a 
moment  only   the   material   side   of  the  question,  it  is 
certain  that  the  Casino  has  brought  considerable  benefits 
to  the  Principality.      The  inhabitants  are  not  subject  to  a 
conscription:  they  pay  no  taxes,  neither  have  they  any 
octroi  duties  or  charges  whatever. 

The  administration  of  the  Cercle  des  Etrangers,  which  is 
indeed  a  State  within  a  State,  provides  for  everything  :  it 
keeps  up  the  roads  and  lights  them  with  gas;  it  charges 
itself  in  one  word  with  all  the  expenses  of  the  State, 
without  speaking  of  the  costly  improvements  and  em- 
bellishments which  it  executes  each  year ;  and  beyond  all 
this,  pays  to  the  Government  a  percentage  on  its  gross 
receipts,  which  gives  to  the  reigning  Prince  a  civil  list  of 
several  millions  of  francs  per  annum. 

But  these  purely  material  advantages  are  purchased  at 
the  cost  of  the  most  terrible  moral  evils. 

In  the  first  place,  the  poorer  classes  do  not  profit  greatly 


106 


LOCAL  HISTOEY. 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


107 


by  the  riches  which  the  presence  of  the  Casino  brings 
into  the  place  to  the  extent  one  might  suppose  at  first 
sight.  The  hotels,  cafes,  shops  and  commercial  establish- 
ments of  all  kinds,  which  are  gathered  around  the  stations 
of  Monte  Carlo  and  the  Condamine,  belong  almost  en- 
tirely to  strangers  from  other  lands :  the  true  Monacotins, 
subjects  of  His  Highness  Prince  Charles,  their  lands  once 
sold  that  the  magnificent  buildings  of  the  gambling  com- 
pany and  luxurious  hotels  and  villas  might  be  erected 
upon  them,  have  nothing  to  gain  from  the  millions 
squandered  at  Roulette  or  trente-et-quaranie. 
But  what  they  do  get  are : 

1.  Their  town  invaded  by  hordes  of  gambling  strangers. 

2.  An  immoral  institution  in  their  midst,  constituting 
a  permanent  danger,  and  which  drives  away  all  respecta- 
ble people  from  the  neighbourhood ;  and 

3.  Their  streets  infested  by  crowds  of  "  fast  "  strangers, 
composed  of  the  "rif-raf"  of  the  entire  world,  in  broad 
cloth  and  silks  and  satins. 

Here  then  are  some  of  the  results  of  having  a  gambling 
Casino  in  our  midst,  which  ought  to  be  taken  into  con- 
sideration by  the  light-hearted  Monacotins  when  they 
boast  of  their  immunity  from  the  conscription,  and  their 
freedom  from  taxation ! 

I  do  not  wish  to  soil  my  pages  with  a  description  of 
what  goes  on  within  the  splendid  walls  of  the  Casino,  or 
of  the  class  of  people  one  meets  in  the  fairy-like  gardens 
of  Monte  Carlo.  It  is,  however,  necessary  to  say  a  few 
words  as  to  tlie  gambling  itself,  and  also  with  regard  to 
the  arguments  which  are  used  for  and  against  the  mainten- 
ance of  this  establishment. 

Two  games  only  are  played  at  the  Casino,  irente-et' 


quarante,  a  game  at  cards  where  the  minimum  stake 
allowed  is  twenty  francs;  and  roulette,  where  it  is  five 
francs :  both  are  pure  games  of  chance. 

Entry  to  the  gaming-rooms,  as  indeed  to  the  whole 
of  the  establishment — reading,  concert-rooms,  &c. — is 
entirely  free,  without  any  payment  whatever.  A  notice 
published  daily  in  the  Nice  and  Mentone  journals  an- 
nounces emphatically,  it  is  true,  ''  That  according  to  the 
rules  of  the  Cercle  des  Etrangers  at  Monte-Carlo,  entrance 
is  only  allowed  to  persons  provided  with  tickets,  and  is 
forbidden  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  Principality  as  well  as 
those  of  the  department  of  the  Alpes-Maritimes,  with  the 
exception  of  members  of  the  principal  clubs."  But  this 
regulation,  which  has  been  imposed  for  some  years  past 
upon  the  administration  of  the  Casino  by  the  French 
Government  (uneasy,  perhaps,  as  to  the  morals  and 
pockets  of  the  inhabitants  of  Nice  and  Mentone),  is 
merely  a  form  for  appearance  sake.  Nothing,  in  fact,  is 
easier  than  for  a  Nipois,  or  even  for  an  inhabitant  of  the 
Principality,  to  evade  the  regulation  and  penetrate  into 
the  "Salle  Turque"  itself,  where  he  can  sacrifice  his 
fortune  at  his  leisure,  and  complete  the  business  by  re- 
tiring afterwards  and  hanging  himself  on  the  celebrated 
tree  called  the  caroubier  des  decaves. 

And  turning  to  the  question  of  the  game  itself,  I  may 
remark  that  it  is  difficult  to  fall  into  a  graver  error  than 
to  believe  it  possible  to  win,  with  any  certainty,  large 
sums  at  roulette.  The  fact  that  the  bank  realises  very 
large  profits  each  day  proves  beyond  controversy  that  the 
wind  of  good  fortune  is  never  in  favour  of  the  mass  of 
players.  Some  isolated  cases  of  large  winnings  no  doubt 
do  occasionally  occur ;  luck  is  ever  capricious,  and  fortune 


108 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


now  and  then  allows  some  stroke  of  success ;  but  these 
are,  to  use  the  old  aud  appropriate  quotation,  rari  nantes 

in  gurgite  vasto. 

The  game  of  roulette  is  composed  of  two  distinct  divi- 
sions, numbers  and  cadres.  Upon  the  former  it  is  jpossihie 
to  gain  thirty-five  times  tlie  value  of  the  stake,  this 
number  being  so  high  owing  to  there  being  thirty-five 
chances,  plus  zero,  against  the  phiyer  and  in  favour  of  the 
bank.  Upon  the  eadres  there  is  less  risk  ;  for  on  rouge  or 
noiVj  pair  or  impair,  passe  or  manque,  there  are  the  same 
number  of  chances  for  the  i)layer  as  for  the  bank,  but,  on 
the  other  hand,  you  cannot  gain  more  than  the  value  of 

your  stake. 

It  is  not,  in  fact,  possible  to  win  with  any  certainty 
except    by   playing   the  martingale,   which    consists   m 
choosing    a    cadre,    and    playing    resolutely    upon    it, 
doubling  the  stake  each  time  you  lose,  until  that  you  are 
backing  wins  (wliich  it  is  almost  sure  to  do  before  long, 
there  being  as  many  chances  for  as  against  the  player), 
upon  which  you  win  the  total  of  the  series  plus  one,  and 
n.ay  commence  agaiu  with   the   minimum   stake.     But 
even  here  the  bank  takes  care  to  guard  itself,  for  it  sets  a 
limit,  or  rather  fixes  a  maximum  stake,  which  may  not  be 
exceeded ;  and  anyone  may  calculate  for  himself,  with  very 
liitle  trouble,  how  many  times  it  takes,  doubling  each  time 
he  loses,  to  bring  his  original  stake  of  five  francs  up  to  the 
maximum  allowed.     We  have  heard  ourselves  of  runs  on 
one  or  other  colour  of  five  and  twenty  or  even  thirty,  aud 
ten  or  twelve  is  far  from  uncommon.    The  old  puzzle  of 
the  nails  in  the  horse's  shoes,  beginning  with  one  farthing 
and  doubling  on  each,  and  its  astonishing  result,  is  a  very 
effective  illustration  of  how  quickly  a  large  amount  is 
reached  by  so  very  simple  a  process.     But  this  line  of 


THE   PRINCIPALITY  OF   MONACO. 


109 


play  is  not  only  looked  upon  with  an  unfavourable  eye  by 
the  croupiers,  but  is  too  matter-of-fact,  and  offers  too  little 
excitement,  to  attract  the  professional  player.  He  requires 
the  excitement  that  must  accompany  risk ;  he  plays  then 
on  the  numbers,  makes  elaborate  combinations,  and  in- 
vents "  systems,"  all  absolutely  fallacious  without  doubt, 
but  which,  thanks  to  the  stupidity  of  mankind,  always 
find  supporters,  who  are  ever  their  victims  and  dupes ! 

The  salons  of  Monte  Carlo  are  then  a  yawning  and 
bottomless  gulf,  which  is  ever  swallowing  up  innumerable 
fortunes  both  great  and  small :  sometimes  those  of  mil- 
lionaires, who  play  out  of  their  vast  riches  ;  sometimes— 
and  this  is  more  frequently  the  case— of  thoughtless  and 
foolish  sons,  of  merchants  and  others,  who  come  with  the 
forlorn  hope  of  re-establishing  themselves,  and  averting 
the  inevitable  bankruptcy,  instead  of  which  they  precipi- 
tate  it;   sometimes   those   of  absconding   cashiers,    who 
know  of  no  other  mode  of  throwing  away  their  ill-acquired 
riches ;  sometimes,  and  especially  on  Sundays,  the  hard- 
earned  savings  of  honest  but  ignorant  workmen,  who, 
tempted  by  a  possible  and  great  gain,  sacrifice  in  an  hour 
the  result  of  weeks  of  labour  I 

The  question,  then,  which  we  have  to  answer  is,  Is  it 
right  to  allow  an  institution  of  this  character  in  the  imme- 
diate neighbourhood  of  these  health-giving  wintering 
resorts,  frequented  as  they  are  by  visitors  from  all  parts 
of  the  world  ?  And  at  no  period  of  its  history  has  this 
question  of  the  toleration  or  abolition  of  the  Monaco 
Casino  been  so  keenly  argued  as  at  the  present  time,  and 
especially  during  these  last  few  months.* 

*  Even  as  I  write  (June  1882)  I  see  in  one  of  the  evening  London  papers 
that  the  Municipal  Council  of  Ventiraiglia  has  unanimously  adopted  a  petition 
to  the  Italian  Government,  praying  that  it  may  be  suppressed.— A.  C.  D. 


110 


LOCAL   HLSTORY. 


One  would  have  thought  at  first  sight  that  all  re- 
spectable people  would  necessarily  be  partisans  in  the 
endeavour  to  do  away  with  these  gambliog-rooms ;  but 
sad  to  say,  such  is  not  the  case.  Strange  indeed,  one 
would  tliink,  but  "  no  less  strange  than  true,"  for  a  good 
number  of  worthy  and  honourable  people  approve  the 
existence  of  the  Casino. 

The  arguments  which  are  employed  in  support  of  it 
are  indeed  weak  enough;  but  I  will  give  a  few  speci- 
mens, with  the  replies  of  those  who  are  desirous  of  sweep- 
ing away  this  plague-spot  from  the  Riviera. 

1.  It  is  argued  that  tlie  Casino  makes  an  excellent  use 
of  its  great  profits :  it  supports  and  affords  employment  to 
a  large  number  of  people,  carries  out  important  public 
works,  encourages  industry,  and  gives  large  sums  to  various 
charitable  objects ;  the  money  which  it  gains  thus  profits 
and  brings  benefits  to  humanity  which  it  would  not  do  if 
it  had  remained  in  the  hands  of  those  who  have  lost  it. 

To  which  we  reply :  Tliis  does  not  touch  the  question. 
If  the  proprietora  of  tlie  Casino  make  good  use  of  tlieir 
winnings,  so  much  the  better  for  them ;  but  whether  or 
no,  it  is  nothing  to  the  main  point. 

2.  It  is  said,  the  game  is  a  perfectly  fair  one ;  the 
organisation  is  of  such  a  character  that  any  trickery  or 
dishonesty  is  impossible,  which  is  more  than  can  be  said 
of  the  ordinary  gambling  hells,  or  even  of  the  cercles 
in  the  neighbouring  towns,  however  respectable.  And 
further,  gambling  is  an  inherent  quality  of  our  human 
nature.  Is  it  not,  then,  rather  a  praiseworthy  action  to 
offer  to  gamblers  a  place  where  they  can  indulge  their 
weakness  without  any  fear  of  being  cheated  or  robbed  ? 

We  reply  :  Honesty  of  mode  does  not  necessarily  imply 


THE   PRINCIPALITY    OF   MONACO. 


Ill 


that  the  principle  is  a  right  one,  or,  to  reverse  the  old 
proverb,  "the  means  most  certainly  cannot  justify  the 
endr  It  is  well,  no  doubt,  that  the  croupiers  should  act 
honestly ;  but  gambling  is  either  one  thing  or  the  other : 
it  is  moral  or  immoral ;  and  if  the  latter,  it  cannot  be 
justified  by  an  honest  administration. 

3.  They  say  the  establishment  and  carrying  on  of  a 
gambling  institution  like  Monte  Carlo  is  an  industry  like 
any  other,  and  therefore  ought  to  be  permitted.  This 
industry  appeals,  it  is  true,  to  a  vicious  propensity,  and 
encourages  it ;  but  there  are  many  others  not  unlike  it 
which  not  only  are  free,  but  receive  every  encouragement 
alike  from  the  State  as  from  individuals  who  would  refuse 
to  enter  the  doors  of  Monte  Carlo.  Are  not  the  various 
stock  exchanges  in  every  European  city  merely  great 
gambling  houses  recognised  and  supported  by  the  govern- 
ments of  their  respective  countries  ?  The  great  clubs,  too, 
are  they  not  also  casinos,  whose  chief  success  is  frequently 
due  to  the  gambling  which  goes  on  within  their  doois? 

The  stock  exchanges,  we  reply,  have  an  object  and 
special  work  of  usefulness,  quite  apart  from  any  gambling 
which  may  be  carried  on  there.  The  temptations  of 
speculation  for  the  purposes  of  gain,  however  regrettable, 
are  the  indirect  consequences  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  stocks 
and  shares,  and  it  would  be  the  duty  of  an  honest  Govern- 
ment to  put  a  check  on  it,  if  it  were  possible;  but  the 
legislature  is  powerless  to  interfere. 

As  to  the  clubs,  they  are  actually  private  houses ;  the 
law  could  only  touch  them  by  violating  one  of  the  first 
principles  which  governs  the  relations  between  the  State 
and  the  individual.  The  French  and  Italian  laws  do 
indeed  forbid  the  playing  even  in  clubs  at  games  at  pure 


112 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


chance,  such  as  those  of  roulette  and  trente-et-quarante ; 
but  how  can  such  laws  be  practically  enforce! ?  But  a 
public  Casino,  where  gambling  is  the  ayowed  and  only 
object  of  its  existence,  is  altogether  in  a  different  category. 
An  institution  of  this  cluiracter  has  become  illegal  in  all 
civilised  countries ;  and  if  the  law's  arms  are  not  long 
enough  to  embrace  and  repress  all  abuses,  surely  that  is 
not  a  reason  why  it  should  ignore  others  of  a  like  cha- 
racter which  it  has  the  power  to  remove  entirely. 

4.  But  it  is  argued,  the  gambling  at  the  Casino  of 
Monte  Carlo  is  always  for  eash,  whilst  at  the  clubs  they 
play  on  credit,  or  borrow  before  leaving  the  room  from 
usurers,  who  are  frequently  the  waiters  of  the  establish- 
ment, the  result  being  that  gambling  is  far  more  dan- 
gerous at  these  clubs  than  at  Monaco,  because  tlie  gambler 
risks  more  at  the  former  before  he  tears  himself  away 
from  the  fascinations  of  the  game.     The  man,  they  say, 
who  will  think  twice  before  realising  his  house  or  selling 
out  his  investments,  to  throw  their  value  upon  the  green 
baize  at  Monte  Carlo,  will  not  hesitate  in  the  excitement 
of  a  game  at  his  club  to  borrow  fifty  pounds  in  order  to 
continue   a   game    which,   with    the    infatuation   of   the 
gambler,  he  feels  sure  has  only  to  be  prolonged  to  land 
him  once  more  a  winner.     Now,  as  gambling  is  an  eradi- 
cable  trait  of  humanity,  is  it  not  wiser,  then,  to  offer  to 
those  who  have  it  most  strongly  developed  a  place  where 
they  are  exposed  to  the  fewer  dangers  ? 

The  answer  to  which  is,  tliat  though  this  may  be  true 
of  a  certain  class  of  gamblers,  tlie  majority  of  tliose  who 
lose  their  money  at  Blonte  Carlo  do  not  frequent  great 
gambling  clubs;  and  besides  this,  the  Casino  at  Monte 
Carlo  is  a  school  of  gambling :  it  encourages  a  taste  for 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


113 


play  amongst  those  who  otherwise  would  be  ignorant  of 
it,  and  especially  in  its  immediate  neighbourhood;  and 
with  regard  to  the  tables  at  Monte  Carlo,  its  influence  is 
additionally  great,  owing  to  the  thousands  who  now  visit 
the  Riviera  each  winter  in  search  of  health  ;  indeed,  if  it 
did  not  exist,  there  would  probably  be  far  less  gambling 
at  the  cercles  at  Nice ;  the  appetite,  we  know,  "  grows  by 
what  it  feeds  on."    Beyond  this,  too,  is  the  question  of 
principle.     Ought  we  to  hesitate  to  pull  up  by  the  roots 
a  poisonous  weed,  which  we  are  able  to  reach,  because  we 
can  see  another  growing  strong  and  lustily  beyond  our 
reach  ?     Gambling  is  an  immoral  amusement ;  that  is,  is 
harmful  both  to  the  individual  and  to  the  State ;  it  must, 
therefore,  be  put  a  stop  to  wherever  it  is  possible  to  do  so, 
\\ithout  troubling  about  it  elsewhere. 

Some  such,  then,  as  we  have  been  giving  above,  are  the 
principal  arguments  which  are  brought  forward  on  the  one 
side  and  the  other  with  regard  to  the  question  of  prin- 
ciple :  Is  an  institution  like  Monte  Carlo  right  or  wrong  ? 
Granting  the  latter,  the  question  now  arises,  how  is  it 
possible  to  suppress  it  ? 

Monaco  is  an  independent  State.  In  spite  of  the 
revenue  from  excise,  and  the  many  branches  of  a  State 
organisation,  such  as  the  railway,  telegraph,  postal  service, 
sale  of  tobacco,  &c.,  which  have  been  handed  over  to  the 
French  Government  by  a  treaty  which  is  only  a  measure 
of  administration,  the  little  State  preserves  its  inde- 
pendence. It  has  not  only  its  own  codes,  but  makes  its 
own  laws ;  and  justice  is  administered  in  the  name  of  the 
Prince  by  special  courts.  This  being  the  case,  the  State 
of  Monaco  has  the  same  right  to  exist,  and  to  do  what  it 
likes  on  its  own  territory,  as  France  or  Italy ;  and  if  its 

I 


i 


114 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   PRINCIPALITY   OF   MONACO. 


115 


Government  insists  on  keeping  up  the  Casino,  it  would 
only  be  possible  to  put  a  stop  to  it  by  suppressing  the 
Principality  itself,  whieb  would  be  an  act  opposed  to  the 

law  of  nations. 

This  sounds  very  plausible,  but  the  argument  is  a  weak 
one.  Politicians  are  not  in  the  liabit  of  looking  at  things 
in  such  a  scrupulous  manner  wlien  they  are  anxious  to  act ; 
for  history  oflea-s  us  innumerable  examples  of  interferences 
far  more  violent  and  for  less  worthy  objects ;  it  is  not 
even  necessary  to  go  back  far  into  our  own  century  to 
discover  them.  Is  it  not  then  merely  a  question  as  to  the 
willingness  of  tlie  European  Governments  to  interfere  ?  If 
several  of  them  were  convinced  that  the  public  gambling 
tables  at  Monte  Carlo  were  intolerable,  and  a  danger  to 
their  own  subjects,  and  not  to  be  put  up  with  any  longer,  it 
would  not  be  long,  we  take  it,  before  the  Prince  of  Monaco 
learnt  wliat  political  scruples  are  worth  ! 

The  real  difficulty  is  not  here  then,  but  it  lies  in  the 

important  and  numerous  interests  wliich  are  bound  up  in 

the  existence  of  the  Casino.    Enormous  sums,  belonging 

to  p< ^rfr»ctly  honest   individuals,  have  been   invested  in 

hotels,  in  liouses,  in  shops,  and  commercial  undertakings 

of  all  kinds  upon  this  little  Principality,  and  the  ruin  of  a 

great  number  of  people  whose  only  crime  has  been  to  try 

and  gain  a  livelihood  where  it  was  possible  to  do  so, 

would  be  the  inevitable  result  of  a  sudden  suppression 

of  the  gambling  rooms.     How  to  guard   the   interests 

of   these   people? — how  to   indemnify  them,   unless   we 

were  as  rich  as  the  Casino  itself?— these  are  important 

questions.     The  difficulty,  no  doubt,  is   a  serious   one, 

but  it  has    been    satisfactorily  solved   elsewhere;     for 

why  is  it  impossible  to  do  here  what  has  already  been 


I 


done  in  similar  cases  at  Baden,  at  Homburg,  and  Saxon 
les  Bains  ? 

Besides,  Be  minimis  non  curat prdetor,  and  if  the  Govern- 
ments of  some  of  the  great  powers  would  only  decide  to 
take,  in  harmony  with  France,  who  is  more  especially 
interested  in  the  matter,  a  firm  and  vigorous  line  of  action 
towards  the  Principality,  it  is  not  the  interests  of  a  few 
landlords,  or  a  certain  number  of  shopkeepers  or  hotel 
proprietors,  which  should  be  allowed  to  weigh  down  the 
scale  against  these  hundreds  of  families  from  all  parts  of 
the  world  who  are  yearly  plunged  into  ruin  (and  often  into 
mourning  as  well),  owing  to  a  great  public  gambling  hell 
on  one  of  the  loveliest  headlands  on  the  always  lovely 
Riviera! 

The  former  are  after  all  but  a  small  and  local  minority ; 
the  latter,  the  victims,  an  enormous  and  ever-increasing 
majority,  whose  misfortunes  are  only  bounded  by  the  con- 
fines of  the  civilised  world. 

Merchants  made  bankrupt,  the  bread-winners  of  happy 
families  ruined,  their  wives  and  children  beggared, 
desperate  gamblers  seeking  suicide  as  their  only  resource  ; 
such  are  the  pretended  blessings  which  this  magnificent 
institution  brings  to  the  very  door  of  our  winter  health 
resorts :  an  institution  which  has  been  happily  described 
by  a  pithy  writer  as  Le  paradis  du  Diahle ! 


I  2 


(  n<>  ) 


THE  FOUNDATION  OF  BORDIGHERA. 


117 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  FOUNDATION   OF  BORDIGHERA. 

State  of  Europe  and  Li-iiria  in  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century-^ 
Borghetto  San  Niccolu- Reasons  which  led  to  tlie  eiiiigration-Cape 
St.  Ampelio  and  the  BonUyue  which  has  aisaj.peared— Ketirement 
of* the  sea  and  the  fonnation  to  which  it  has  given  place— Deed  for 
the  foundation  of  Bordighera  in  1470 -Second  deed  in  1471- 
Development  of  the  new  Commune— The  Knights  of  St.  Jolui  at  La 
Ruota— Great  commercial  companies— Sale  of  Ventiniiglia  and  its 
towns  to  the  Banco  di  Sitn  Giorgio— ll^lwm  to  the  Republic. 

After  the  unpleasant  scenes  wliicli  we  have  just  contem- 
plated, it  will  be  an  agreeable  change  to  the  reader  to  turn 
to  the  latter  portion  of  the  tlfteentli  century,  and  go  with 
us  up  the  peaceful  and  secluded  valley  which  opens  about 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  to  the  west  of  Cape  St.  Ampelio. 
After  a  little  more  than  half-an-hour's  walk,  charmingly 
placed  at  the  head  of  the  valley  and  half-way  up  the  hill 
upon  the  right,  lie  will  perceive  a  little  fortified  village, 
whose  inhabitants,  by  emigration,  are  preparing  to  take 
the  first  step  towards  founding  Bordighera.  Let  us  pause 
for  a  moment,  and  take  a  look  at  the  state  of  Europe  and 
the  surrounding  countries  at  this  time,  viz.  the  autumn  of 

1470. 

Louis  XI.  was  King  of  France  and  Edward  IV.  of  Eng- 
land ;  Paul  II.  was  Pope,  and  the  Eastern  Empire  had 
come  to  an  inglorious  end  by  the  taking  of  Constantinople 
bv  the  Turks  in  1453  ;  Frederick  III.  was  Emperor  of 
Germany,  and  John  Guttenberg  had  invented  printing  at 
Strasburg  in  1440.  The  Kepublics  were  flourishing  in 
Italy  :    that  of  Genoa  was  in  the  fulness  of  its  power  and 


magnificence,  and  possessed  the  whole  of  Liguria  as  far  as 
the  Nervia;  Ventimiglia  had  nominally  belonged  for 
some  years  past  to  Francis  Sforza,  Duke  of  Milan,  but  in 
reality  governed  itself  as  a  free  town,  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  powerful  family  of  the  Grimaldi,  who  reigned 

at  Monaco. 

The  Communes  which  now  together  form  the  Canton  of 
Bordighera  already  existed,  and  were  considered  as  VUldB 
Vintimilienses,  with  the  exception  of  Seborga.,  which 
belonged,  as  we  have  seen,  to  the  Abbey  of  Lerins.  San 
Kemo,  united  for  more  than  a  century  with  the  Genoese 
Kepublic,  was  constantly  disputing  with  its  suzerain  on 
questions  of  taxation  ;  the  village  of  Colla  was  already  a 
strong  castle  belonging  to  San  Kemo,  but  the  hospitals  of 
Ospedaletti  and  the  Kuota  did  not  yet  exist. 

The  Saracen  corsairs,  driven  out  of  the  Fraxhiets  by  the 
Counts  of  Provence  and  chased  from  the  seas  by  the 
Genoese  galleys,  had  left  these  waters.  All  Liguria 
rejoiced  in  a  respite  from  warfare  and  revolt. 

It  was  during  this  time  of  peace  and  comparative  pros- 
perity, after  the  struggles  and  distractions  of  which  this 
country  had  been  tlie  theatre  ever  since  the  fall  of  the 
Roman  Empire,  that  thirty-two  families  from  the  Bourg  or 
Castrum  Sandi  Niclwlai  became  filled  with  a  desire  to 
leave  their  narrow  valley  and  wall-encircled  village  and 
found  a  new  town  amid  the  invigorating  breezes,  and  sur- 
rounded by  the  unrivalled  view  which  one  gets  from  the 

Cape  St.  Ampelio. 

But  before  entering  upon  the  details  of  this  event,  it  will 
be  interesting  to  cast  a  bird's-eye  view  over  the  topogra- 
phical conditions  of  the  place  which  had  such  attractions 
for  the  inhabitants  of  Borghetto.    The  configuration  of 


118 


LOCAT-    TTTSTORY. 


the  coast  must  have  been  very  di  fife  rent  tli  n  to  what 
it  is  at  the  present  day.  In  all  probability  the  shipes 
of  the  Cape  were  washed  on  three  sides  by  the  sea, 
which  must  have  penetrated  even  to  the  very  foot  of  the 
hill  to  the  east,  entirely  covering  the  low-lyinuj  lands 
which  are  known  to-day  under  the  name  of  Orti  Sottani  : 
thus  forming  a  creek  or  hordigue,  which  served  no  doubt 
as  a  sort  of  harbour  for  the  operations  of  some  fisher- 
men. 

Here,  as  at  so  many  other  parts  on  the  Eastern  coast  of 
Italy,  we  find  tliat  the  sea  has  slowly  but  regularly  retired  ; 
but  this  phenomenon  does  not  point  however  to  any  volcanic 
subsidence  of  the  soil,  but  only  to  the  steady  action  of  a 
current  which,  running  always  from  west  to  east,  tlirows 
tip  again  on  the  shore  the  sliingle  and  debris  brought  down 
into  the  sea  by  the  mountain  rivers  of  the  west,  viz.  the 
Var,  the  Roya,  and  tlieNervia.  The-  '>ris  accumulate 
especially  in  those  places  where  tlioy  are  checked  by  the 
hollows  and  indentations  of  the  shore,  or  where  thiown  u\) 
by  the  regular  action  of  tlie  gentle  ripple  of  the  waves,  the 
result  of  which  is  a  gradual  effacing  of  the  irregularities 
of  the  coast. 

There  does  not  exist,  so  far  as  I  know,  any  w  ritteii  |)roof 
of  the  existence  of  the  creek  or  Bordigue*  which  no  doubt 
suggested  the  name  of  Dordighera.  This  Bordiijue  is  not, 
however,  merely  the  offspring  of  the  imagination  of  an 
liistorian  seeking  for  the  etymology  of  a  name;  its  history 
is  written  is  indelible  characters  on  the  soil  of  the  place. 

♦  See  note,  page  124.  The  modern  French  signitication  of  tlie  word  Bordique 
is  a  creek  provided  with  stakes  an«l  nets  for  the  purpose  of  (■.Uchiiic^  fish.  Mr. 
BeUows  (whose  dictionary  is  so  well  knv.wn),  however,  informs  me  that  this 
term  is  also  used  for  a  store-tank  for  6sh.— A.  C.  I). 


THE  FOUNDATION  OF  BORDIQHERA. 


119 


f 


It  is  sufficient  to  dig  to  the  depth  of  only  a  few  feet  any- 
where round  the  foot  of  the  hill,  below  the  remains  of  the 
old  Strada  Romana,  to  find  the  beach,  just  as  it  has  been 
buried  by  these  many  layers  of  debris  and  rubbish. 

The  sand  still  emits,  when  freshly  dug  up,  the  smell  of  the 
sea ;  it  is  salt  to  the  taste,  and  abounds  in  recent  shells, 
and  I  have  myself  turned  up  pieces  of  the  claws  of  crabs 
in  a  perfect  state  of  preservation. 

It  is  very  difficult  to  say  precisely  at  what  period  this 
silting-up  commenced  and  the  sea  to  retire,  but  it  is 
reasonable  to  infer  that  the  surf  still  beat  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill  when  the  Aurelian  Way  was  opened— that  is  about  2000 
years  back ;  for  if  the  plain  or  any  part  of  it  had  existed 
at  this  time,  the  Roman  engineers  would  not  have  planned 
their  route  on  the  hill  side,  but  would  most  certainly  have 
run  it  alongside  the  shore  like  their  modern  successors. 
At  the  commencement  of  our  century  the  sea  came  up  to 
within  a  hundred  yards  or  so  of  the  present  shore ;  the 
Cornice  Road  was  traced  on  the  strand  itself,  along  the 
edge  of  the  cultivated  land.  From  which  we  may  infer 
that  the  sea  is  gradually  retreating  at  the  rate  of  nearly  a 
yard   a   year.     This   phenomenon   is  confirmed   also   by 

official  documents. 

From  the  very  earliest  time,  owners  of  property  having 
a  frontage  on  the  beach  were  in  the  habit  of  advancing 
their  fences  and  enclosing,  for  the  purpose  of  cultivation, 
the  land  which  had  been  gradually  formed  by  the  retiring 
sea.  The  statutes  of  the  federation  of  the  **  Eight  Towns" 
imposed  the  payment  of  an  annual  rate  upon  these  pro- 
prietors, which,  however,  did  not  constitute  a  title  of 
possession;  but  in  1827  the  position  oHhese  ferreni arenili 
was  finally  regulated  by  an  Act  of  the  Communal  Council 


120 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


(which  I  shall  refer  to  in  detail  later  od),  wherein  we 
read  that — 

"...  The  limited  sf  ace  available  for  dwellings  witliin  the  walls  of 
ibis  commune,  and  tbe  increasing  population,  led  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, during  long  years  past,  to  erect  buildings  outside  the  walls  and 
along  the  adjacent  beach,  taking  advantage  of  tJie  gradual  retnat  of 
the  seUj  wliich  our  ancestors  considered  as  a  special  provision  for  this 
most  important  object." 

We  are  in  ignorance  as  to  the  exact  distance  the  sea 
had  retreated  at  the  time  of  the  funndation  of  Bordighera, 
but  it  is  very  probable  that  the  Cape  projected  much 
further  into  the  sea  then  than  it  does  at  the  present  time. 
Indeed,  it  is  even  probable  that  the  creek  formed  by  this 
projection  (the  heiglit  of  the  Cape  sheltering  it  also 
from  the  strong  winds  from  the  east)  gave  it  almost  the 
character  of  a  little  harbour. 

Coasting,  by  means  of  small  vessels  from  port  to  port, 
was  always  the  chief  means  of  communication  and  trans- 
port along  the  whole  lengtli  of  tlie  Ligurian  shore,  prior 
to  tlie  opening  of  the  carriage  wa\-,  wliich  we  must  re- 
member was  not  complete  until  the  year  1828.  Naturally, 
the  surrounding  villages  of  Vallebuona,  Borglietto,  Sasso, 
and  otliers  would  require  a  port  where  they  might  ship 
without  trouble  their  varied  productions,  and  none  could 
have  been  so  handy  in  every  respc  ct  for  tliis  purpose  as 
the  natural  harbour  afforded  by  Cape  St.  Ampelio. 

The  abbey  of  Lerins  esjiecially  would  make  great  use 
of  such  a  landing  place  in  its  communications  with  its 
establishment  at  Seborga. 

Besides,  the  very  terms  of  the  deed  by  which  the 
thirty-tw( >  families  as^oriate(l  themselves  togetlier  to  lV)und 
Bordighera  seem  to  point  to  the  fact  that  the  site  of  the 


I 


11 


THE  FOUNDATION  OF  BORDIGHERA. 


121 


new  commune  was  already  inhabited.  The  deed  mentions 
a  well, — terrain  .  .  .  sicut  stat  lo  jpozo, — and  it  speaks  of 
the  place  as  already  bearing  another  name  than  that  of 
Cape  St.  Ampelio, — which  had  served  to  designate  it 
during  the  whole  of  the  Middle  Ages — loco  dido  laBurdi- 
ghetta :  two  points  of  detail  which  seem  to  justify  the  pre- 
sumption that  this  point  of  the  coast  was  then  occupied 
by  a  little  cluster  of  dwellings,  without  doubt  the  huts  of 
some  fishers,  attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  proximity  of  a 
creek,  convenient  for  mooring  in  and  putting  off  their 
boats.  Perhaps  also,  in  addition,  there  may  have  been  a 
humble  hostelry  to  give  shelter  and  refreshment  to  those 
pilgrims  who  visited  the  cenotaph  of  the  saint. 

It  was  upon  the  2nd  of  September,  1470.  that  the 
thirty-two  families*  associated  themselves  together  for  the 
purpose  of  founding  Bordighera,  by  a  deed,  wliich  was 
signed  by  the  senior  member  of  each  in  the  Church  of 
St.  Nicholas  at  Borghetto,  and  which  was  drawn  up  by  the 
notary  Antonius  Corrubeus,  of  Ventimiglia. 

I  will  not  trouble  my  readers  with  the  text,  or  even  a 
translation  of  this  document,!  but  merely  mention  that 
the  former  may  be  found  in  the  French  edition  of  this 
work. 

In  the  year  following,  and  for  reasons  of  which  we  are 
ignorant,  the  colonists  wished  to  renew  their  agreement 
by  a  second  deed,  which  was  signed  on  the  28th  of  June, 
1471,  on  a  stone  table,  supra  hanchetto  lapideo,  placed  on 
the  Cape,  in  capite, 

*  Thirty-one  names  in  all ;  the  second  deed,  signed  the  following  year,  con- 
tains one  more  name,  and  which  has  without  doubt  been  dropped  from  this  in 
copying  it. 

t  Tlic  manuscript  was  communicated  to  me  by  the  family  of  the  late  M. 
J.  13.  Vialc,  Judge  {Frdorc)  of  Bordighera. 


122 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE    FOUNDATION    OF    BORDIGHERA. 


123 


It  is  not  worth  while  to  give  tlie  text  of  this  second  deed, 
which,  save  in  some  insignificant  particulars,  is  identical 
with  that  which  we  have  before  referred  to,  but  the  eou- 
cluding  paragraphs  somewhat  difler. 

From  these  deeds  *  we  infer  that  the  first  village  at 
Bordighera  was  a  sort  of  castle,  whose  exterior  bastion 
formed  at  the  same  time  the  walls  of  the  houses,  which  hud 
all  their  fa<^ades  fronting  a  central  court,  as  we  still  see 
at  Sasso. 

We  are  completely  ignorant  of  the  dimensions  of  this 
castle,  but  they  cannot  have  been  considerable,  if  we  may 
judge  at  all  by  those  of  the  houses,  some  of  which  were 
twenty-tliree  feet  in  length  by  eighteen  feet  broad,  and 
close  upon  eleven  feet  in  height;  they  were  in  fact  nothing 
more  than  rooms  under  a  shed. 

It  is  difficult  to  determine  with  any  exactness  where 
were  placed  the  walls  which  shut  in  these  primitive  dwell- 
ings ;  but  the  mention  in  the  deeds :  a  via  pMka  versus 
mare,  and  the  fact  that  the  square  bastion  of  the  old 
cemetery  and  the  walls  which  are  close  to  the  ;porta  ddla 
Maddalena,  all  of  which  ajtpear  to  piint  to  a  period  more 
remote  than  the  rest  of  the  fortifications,  authorises  us  in 
concluding  that  the  village  of  Bordighera  of  1471  occu- 
pied the  south-east  angle  of  the  modern  town. 

The  new  commune  developed  rapidly,  and  we  find  a 
proof  of  it  in  a  resolution  passed  by  the  Parliament  of 
Ventimiglia,  which  granted  as  early  as  the  year  1472,  a 
sum  of  money  touanls  buiMing  the  walls  of  Bordighera.f 

•  I  aoi  iQilebteJ  for  this  second  document,  a>  uril  as  lur  ni.inyotheix  which 
will  ht  found  luithtT  on,  to  a  y  n  ,.f  maiiii.srii|.t  upon 

the  local  history  of  Itordighcra,  which  M.  k  C'lievalicr  Plana,  Mayor  of  the 
town,  kindly  plued  at  my  tlisposal. 


{ 


Towards  the  end  of  the  fifteenth  century,  and  probably 
a  little  after  the  foundation  of  Bordighera,  the  Freres 
HosjQitah'ers  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  who  had  been  settled 
in  the  Island  of  Rhodes  ever  since  the  year  1310,  founded 
a  colony  or  village  at  Colla,  which  took  in  consequence 
the  name  of  Colla  di  Eodt,  and  shortly  after,  without 
doubt,  they  built  the  establishments  at  Ospedaletti  and 
the  Ruota,  whose  names  indicate  their  origin. 

This  remaikable  order,  driven  from  Palestine  in  1188, 
and  thus  prevented  from  carrying  out  the  purpose  for 
which  it  was  originally  formed,  that  of  receiving  pilgrims 
and  providing  for  tlieir  wants  in  Jerusalem,  had  now 
devoted  itself  to  the  extermination  of  the  pirates  of  the 
Mediterranean. 

The  Algerian  corsairs  had  succeeded  the  Saracens,  and 
their  ravages  upon  the  coast  of  Italy,  France,  and  Spain 
had  rendered  navigation  almost  impossible.  Hariadan 
Barbarossa,  usurper  of  the  throne  of  Algiers  in  1518,  and 
who  was  considered  after  Doria  the  greatest  sailor  of  the 
day,  personally  conducted  a  landing  and  attack  upon 
Bordighera,  but  the  chroniclers  tell  us  that  he  w^as  re- 
pulsed. Tlie  presence  of  these  pirates  in  the  Gulfs  of 
Genoa  and  Lyons  probably  determined  the  Knights  of 
Rhodes  to  settle  at  Ospedaletti,  but  it  does  not  appear 
that  they  remained  for  any  length  of  time.  The  Bay  of 
Ruota  was  as  shallow  as  it  was  unprotected,  especially 
from  the  west  wind,  and  did  not  offer  sufficiently  good 
anchorage  for  their  ships ;  so  that  before  very  long  they 
transferred  their  establishments  to  Villafranca,  which 
Charles  the  Good,  Duke  of  Savoy,  granted  to  them  in  the 
year  1527,  especially  with  the  object  of  putting  down 
|)iracy  along  the  shores  of  the  Riviera.     But  here  also 


124 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


the  stiiy  of  the  knights  was  of  short  duration,  for  in  1530 
they  moved  again  to  the  island  of  Malta,  which  was  given 
them  by  Cliarles  V.  of  Spain. 

During  the  two  centuries  which  followed  its  foundation, 
Bordighera  or  Burdighetta*  as  it  was  then  called,  followed 
the  fortunes  of  Ventimiglia,  as  did  the  other  seven  com- 
munes which  formed  the  Villm  Yintimilienses.  Thus,  they 
passed  for  a  short  time,  towards  the  end  of  the  century, 
under  the  dominion  of  Charles  VIII.  of  France,  to  return 
again  to  Genoa  in  1505 ;  but  shortly  afterwards  they  were 
the  object  of  a  curious  sale,  a  foreshadowing,  perhaps,  of 
wliat  was  to  occur  to  tlieir  neighbour,  Monaco,  400  years 
later :  the  Kepublic  sold  Ventimiglia  and  the  dependent 
towns  to  a  great  financial  institution,  the  Bank  of  San 
Giorgio!  This  great  commercial  company  was  one  of 
several  which  were  the  fruits  of  the  anarchy  that  reigned 
throughout  Europe  at  the  end  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

Without  laws,  with  nowhere  a  firm  government, 
commerce  was  utterly  unprotected.  The  seas,  infested  by 
ruthless   pirates,t    made    navigation   ibr  shipping,  even 

•  The  name  of  liordnjhera  has  (n-i<1.^ntly  the  same  derivation  as  that  of 
Bm-deaux  (Bun!     ■'■").  l>ut  these  naiiu-s  have  neither  of  them  a  Latin  origin. 

Like  Imrd  or  60/",, ,  they  are  derivea   from   soiur  (iuthic  word  signifying 

creek  or  gulf.  It  might  he  possible  .d-.  t..  traee  thtm  Irum  the  Ligurian 
word  boding,  without  bottom,  that  is,  ■■  ...  deep."  (C(i\esia~iyr  autkhls- 
Simoldiotmi  del  Ligun),(r<Mn  wheme  aL.u  has  come  the  iianu-  of  Fo  (Padanns). 

+  And  these  dangers  not  oidv  arose  from  the  corsairs  ut"  Tunis  and  Algiers, 
but  from  what  in  later  days  was  kiiuwn  as  "privateering."  For  there  is 
aniple  evident*'  to  i-rove  that  the  rival  rei.uldics  of  Genoa  and  Venice,  and  the 
petty  prin(  ti-  of  the  Italian  iH-uin.Mila,  were  only  too  ready  to  li* .  ii>e  armed 
vessels  of  tlieir  subjects  to  prey  upon  the  Ci»mmerce  (»f  a  neiglibour.  We  find, 
amongst  others,  reference  to  this  in  some  of  Shakespeare's  plays,  and  he,  we 
must  not  forget,  lived  about  this  time,  and  is  as  a  rule  wonderfully  correct 
in  his  local  incidents  and  allusions.  In  Titelftk  Mght,  it  may  be  remem- 
bered that  Antonio,  the  sea  captain,  who  rescues  Sebastian,  is  recognised  by 
the  Duke  as  having  formerly  commanded  one  of  these  vessels.    Indeed,  at  tirst 


THE    FOUNDATION    OF    BORDIGHERA. 


125 


along  the  coast,  almost  an  impossibility,  except  when 
sailing  in  company;  and  on  land,  the  depredations  of 
handitti  rendered  many  of  the  highways  impassable ;  whilst 
pillage  of  merchandise  and  wholesale  destruction  of  crops, 
the  inevitable  accompaniment  of  the  incessant  local  war-^, 
the  great  curse  of  that  day,  went  on  almost  continuously. 
IMerchants  then  were  powerless  to  carry  on  tlieir  trade  alone 
under  such  conditions;  they  therefore  associated  them- 
selves together  and  formed  companies,  which  were  less 
intended,  like  those  of  our  own  time,  to  make  a  large  return 
on  their  capital,  as  to  render  trade  possible,  by  protecting 
their  vessels  by  armed  cruisers,  and  to  so  organise  com- 
merce by  a  collective  action  as  to  be  able  to  influence  the 
varying  politics  of  the  day. 

Thus  were  founded  over  the  whole  of  Europe  powerful 
trading  institutions,  the  most  remarkable  examples  of 
which  are  to  be  found  in  the  East  Indian  Companies — 
French,  Dutch,  and  above  all  the  English— which,  founded 
in  the  year  I6OO,  for  the  space  of  over  two  hundred  years 
ruled  absolutely  over  one  of  the  largest  and  richest  pro- 
vinces in  the  world. 

Each  industrial  and  agricultural  centre,  each  seaport 
possessed  an  institution  of  this  character,  of  a  greater  or 
less  degree  of  importance.     Ventimiglia  had  one  in  the 


he  taxes  him  with  being  a  pirate,  a  charge  which  Antonio  indignantly  denies. 
The  whole  dispute  may  be  found  in  Act  v.  Scene  i.,  and  it  is  interesting  as 
showing  how  distinct  were  these  privateers  from  the  much  dreaded  pirates, 
though  both  appear  to  have  infested  the  Adriatic  and  Mediterranean.  But  it 
is  evident  that  the  former  warred  mainly,  if  not  entirely,  from  a  political 
motive,  or  perhaps,  like  Drake  and  Raleigh  at  the  same  period,  but  in  other 
seas,  whose  object  was  not  only  as  good  patriots  to  harass  the  Spaniards  in 
every  possible  manner,  but  also  to  relieve  them  of  their  dollars  whenever  the 
opportunity  offered  ! — A.  C.  D. 


LOCAL   HLSTORY. 


twelfth  century  siiflfiniontly  powerful  to  inspire  a  certain 
respect  even  from  Count  Otlio,  as  it  compelled  liiiu  to  swear 
fidelity  at  the  compromise  of  1135,  which  was  signed  after 
the  sieges  of  St.  Agnes  and  Dolceacqua.* 

But  of  all  the  companies  organised  in  Liguria,  none 
approached  in  importance  to  that  founded  by  some  mer- 
chants of  Genoa  about  the  year  1316,t  and  which,  under 
the  name  of  the  Bank  of  San  Giorgio,  took  a  proud  and 
important  position  towards  the  end  of  that  century  :  thanks 
to  the  fact  that  the  Eepublic  farmed  to  it  many  of  the 
most  valuable  sources  of  revenue. 

This  singular  institution,  placed  under  the  direction  of 
eight  administrators  and  a  council  composed  of  a  hundred 
of  the  leading  citizens,  was  not  long  in  assuming  that  always 
awkward  position,  tm  etat  duns  Vetat  The  Republic  was 
often  short  of  money,  and  in  order  to  procure  it,  sold  its 
distant  possessions  to  the  Bank,  which  after  a  time  by  these 
means  became  possessed  of  Corsica,  the  town  of  Sarzana, 
and  colonies  in  the  Levant.  In  the  eighteenth  century 
it  was  in  a  condition  so  extremely  prosperous,  as  to  be 
enabled  to  lend  the  State  fifteen  millions  of  livres,  in 
order  to  furnish  the  sinews  of  war  against  the  Austrian  in- 
vasion of  1746.  But  this  loan  almost  paralysed  the  Bank, 
and  the  loss  of  Corsica,  coming  soon  afterwards,  completed 
its  ruin  ;  for  a  panic  took  place,  which,  though  soon  tided 
over,  prevented  San  Giorgio  from  ever  rising  again  to  its 
former  splendour.  Kedueed  by  these  misfortunes  to  an 
ordinary  banking  house,  San  Giorgio  only  lingered  on 
to  our  own  day,  in  order,  a  few  years  ago,  to  end  in  a  dis- 

*  Quando  compagna  VintimiUi  r«         '  fwr  ....  hocidem  juramentum  ego 
et  fiiii  rnei  renovabimiis.     (Rossi — StorM  dt   Ventimiyiia.) 
f  Gazzio — Compenditj  (kiUx  Shrki  Ji  Gfriuiyj. 


THE   FOUNDATION  OF    BOnDIGHERA. 


127 


astrous  failure.  In  1514,  Yentimiglia  and  its  dependent 
towns  were  sold  by  the  Government  of  the  Doge,  magni- 
ficis  dominis  protectorihus  comperarum  Sancti  Giorgi.  The 
possession  by  the  Bank  of  this  portion  of  Western  Liguria 
continued  for  forty-eight  years,  w  hieh  w^ere  for  these  tow^ns 
a  time  of  neglect,  coupled  with  very  lax  government. 
The  only  event  occurring  during  this  period  which 
deserves  to  be  specially  alhided  to  was  the  barbarous  sack 
of  Ventimiglia  in  the  year  1525,  by  the  troojis  of  the 
Constable  de  Bourbon,  who  was  fighting  in  the  service  of 
Charles  V. 

In  the  year  1559,  the  treaty  of  Cateau  -  Cambresis 
once  more  gave  peace  to  Europe,  and  in  a  short  time 
the  finances  of  the  Genoese  Eepublic  became  so  flourishing 
that  it  was  able  to  regain  possession  of  Ventimiglia  in 
1562. 

The  return  once  more  to  the  authority  of  Genoa  sig- 
nalised for  Ventimiglia  and  the  neighbouring  towns  the 
commencement  of  the  period  of  peace  and  prosperity  which 
lasted  until  the  invasion  of  Liguria  by  Charles  Emmanuel  I. 
of  Savoy.  For  this  ambitious  Prince  coveted  Ventimiglia 
and  the  valley  of  the  Eoya,  owing  to  the  great  advantage 
which  the  latter  offered  for  opening  up  a  new  and  direct 
route  (by  reason  of  the  facilities  for  making  a  good  road), 
between  the  "  county "  of  Nice  and  Piedmont ;  and  con- 
sidering himself,  thanks  to  an  alliance  with  France  and 
Venice,  sufficiently  strong  to  measure  himself  with  the 
Eepublic,  seized  hold  of  a  worthless  pretext  to  declare  war. 
We  have  not  space  here  to  follow  the  varying  vicissitudes 
of  this  campaign,  which  pertains  rather  to  the  history  of 
Genoa ;  but  it  will  be  sufficient  to  say  that  Prince  Victor 
entered  Liguria  in  April  1625,  at  the  head  of  very  consi- 


128 


LOCAL  HLSTOKY. 


derable  forces,  by  the  valley  of  the  Impero,  and  advanced 
as  far  as  the  Cape  of  Bordighera. 

Ventimiglia  was  determined  to  resist,  and  called  out 
the  militia  of  the  dependent  towns  to  the  number  of  8000 
men;*  but  the  representatives  of  the  Republic,  who  had 
been  sent  to  direct  tlie  defence,  considered  that  it  was  not 
in  a  fit  state  to  sustain  a  siege,  and  decided  to  capitulate, 
negotiations  for  which  were  carried  on  at  Bordi^hera. 

But  the  fortune  of  war  once  mure  turned  in  favour  of 
Genoa,  owing  to  the  succour  she  received  from  Spain,  and 
a  treaty  was  signed  at  San  Kcnio  in  September  of  the 
same  year,  by  which  Ventimiglia  was  again  restored  to  the 
Eepublic. 

The  remainder  of  the  century  offers  no  events  worth 
particularizing  except  those  which  form  the  subject  of  the 
following  chapter.  Victor  Amadeus  11.  followed  the 
same  policy  as  his  fatlier,  waging  a  continual  warfare 
against  the  province  with  tlie  hope  of  annexing  Dolce- 
acqua,  Penna,  and  other  positions  amongst  the  mountains, 
but  these  local  campaigns  do  not  appear  to  have  had  any 
influence  on  the  prosperity  of  the  towns  upon  the  coast 

♦  This  total  must  be  exaggerated  by  the  chroniclers.  If  Diutlii^hera,  with 
a  population  of  1000  inhabitants,  was  not  able  to  iilace  more  tlian  a  hundred 
and  thirty  combatants  in  the  field,  it  is  very  ditliciilt  to  believe  that  the  eight 
little  couimunes  together  could  place  ci'tjht  thousand.  The  tutal  of  800  is 
much  more  probable. 


(    129    ) 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE   EMANCIPATION   OF   THE   COMMUNES. 

Harassing  taxation  by  Ventimiglia — Laws  on  fishing  and  petition  of 
the  fishermen — Monopoly  of  corn,  c^c,  and  petition  with  regard  to 
same — Petitions  as  to  munitions  of  war — Systematic  rejection  of  all 
hy  the  authorities  of  Ventimiglia — Camporosso  takes  the  initiative  in 
the  separation — Agitation  at  Bordighera — Conciliatory  policy  of  the 
Republic's  Commissioner— Decree  of  emancipation  and  its  acceptance 
of  the  Communes. 

There  is  one  point  at  least,  which  tlie  student  of  history- 
notices,  as  common  to  ahnost  all  revolutions,  whether 
great  or  small,  whether  taking  place  on  the  banks  of  the 
8eine  or  the  Eoya ;  and  that  is,  that  it  has  always  been  the 
oppression,  the  exactions,  or  the  cruelty  of  those  in  autho- 
rity, be  they  kings  or  Committees  of  Public  Safety,  which 
have  provoked  the  people  to  rise  against  them.  These, 
never  doubting  they  had  the  power,  have  always  sought 
in  the  first  place  to  obtain  justice  by  lawful  means ;  they 
made  humble  representations  to  their  masters,  but  the 
Sovereign  or  the  Council,  or  what  not,  blinded  by  the 
pride  of  power,  and  ignoring  the  new  requirements  which 
the  progress  of  civilisation  had  created  in  the  lower  ranks 
of  the  people,  have  ever  opposed  a  systematic  refusal  to 
all  appeals.  Then,  and  then  only,  when  their  constitu- 
tional demands  have  been  contemptuously  refused,  the 
masses,  powerful  from  their  passion  and  unity,  break  the 
yoke  and  teach  their  rulers,  when  it  is  too  late  to  profit  by 
the  lesson,  tliat  there  is  a  certain  limit  beyond  which  men 
will  not  tolerate  with  impunity  the  violation  of  their  rights. 
And  it  was  not  otherwise  with  the  Villm  Vintimilienses, 


130 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


Crushed  by  their  suzerain,  ruined  by  onerous  taxes, 
deprived  even  of  the  necessities  of  life — thanks  to  the 
monopolies  which  the  State  created  as  a  means  of  revenue 
from  its  own  citizens — and  excluded  from  any  real  partici- 
pation in  the  affairs  of  government,  their  representatives 
in  the  Parliament  being  a  decided  minority, — their  posi- 
tion at  the  commencement  of  the  seventeenth  century 
had  become  intolerable. 

From  the  year  1502,  Yentimiglia  had  (with  others 
equally  vexatious),  imposed  on  the  dependent  towns  a 
stringent  law  on  fishing — Traeiatus  novus  gabellm  piscium, 
which  forced  the  fishermen  not  only  to  take  all  their  fish 
to  Ventimiglia,  but  obliged  them  to  sell  it  also  at  a  tariff 
fixed  by  the  Government,  and  always  to  give  the  prefer- 
ence to  Yentimiglian  buyers,  whilst  at  the  same  time  they 
were  compelled  to  hand  over  one-filth  of  the  receipts  as  a 
Bort  of  royalty  or  tithe. 

We    give    an   extract   from    this   law,   translated   into 

Englisli : 

"  They  have  decreed  that  all  and  each  of  the  fishermen,  of  whatever 
degree,  fishing  and  taking  fish  in  the  sea,  either  by  lines  or  by  nets, 
if  they  land  the  said  fish  on  the  territory  of  Ventimigha.  .  .  they  are 
commanded  to  sell  to  the  citizeos  and  inhabitants  of  Ventimiglia  and 
its  jurisdiction  ;  neither  may  they  sell  to  sti  angers  whilst  the  citizens 
are  desirous  of  buying.  .  .  .  Also  it  is  dtcretd  tliat  all  and  each  of  the 
fishermen  are  bound  to  surrender  to  the  township  of  Yentimiglia  a  fifth 
part  of  the  price  (or  value)  of  the  said  fish.  .  .  ." 

In  June  1558,  the  fishermen  of  Bordighera  addressed 
a  petition  to  the  authorities  of  Ventimiglia,  from  which  I 
give  an  extract,  translated  from  the  original  document : 
"Most  Honoueable  Gentlemen, — 

"  Some  of  the  fishermen  of  Burdighetta  desire  in  all  humility 
to  express  to  you,  that  owing  to  the  smalluess  of  the  territory  they 
occupy,  the  hardness  of  the  times,  and  their  lack  both  of  the  means  of 


THE   EMANCIPATION   OF   THE   COMMUNES. 


131 


living  and  of  commerce,  they  being  thus  in  great  poverty,  have,  as  did 
their  predecessors  before  them,  betaken  themselves  to  fishing,  &c.  This 
having  become  known  to  the  city  of  Ventimiglia,  they  have  been  obliged 
to  pay,  under  the  pretext  of  a  tax  or  duty,  a  fifth  part  of  all  they 
receive ;  besides  which,  at  the  present  time,  those  of  Ventimiglia  have 
prosecuted  certain  of  the  Bordighera  fishermen  for  having  sold  fish  out 
of  the  jurisdiction,  as  laid  down  by  the  Acts  of  1502  and  1514,  which 
ordered  that  all  fishermen  should  carry  their  fish  into  Ventimiglia  and 
sell  it  on  the  Chiappa^  &c." 

This  request,  like  many  others,  presented  one  after 
another  during  the  whole  of  the  century,  received,  as  one 
might  expect,  only  a  refusal.  But  the  question  of  the 
fishing  was  not  the  only  hardship  which  had  to  be  borne 
by  Bordighera  and  the  sister  (dependent)  Communes ;  all 
the  productions  of  the  country  were  taxed  in  proportions 
which  would  astonish  the  farmers  of  our  day,  whilst  the 
exercise  of  every  sort  of  industry  was  monopolised  for  the 
benefit  and  profit  of  the  citizens  of  Ventimiglia. 

The  monopoly  of  the  sale  of  grain  and  the  limitation  of 
the  manufacture  of  bread  to  certain  contractors,  which 
had  no  slight  resemblance  to  the  monopoly  of  cereals  at 
Monaco  later  on,  led,  towards  the  commencement  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  to  a  number  of  petitions  on  the  part 
of  "  the  men  of  Burdighetta,'*  some  extracts  from  which  I 
cannot  refrain  from  placing  before  my  readers.  And  I 
must  crave  forgiveness  here  as  to  Fhe  number  of  these 
quaint  old  documents  which  I  have  inserted;  my  plea 
being  that  they  have  a  valuable  historic  interest,  on 
account  of  the  information  they  give  us  as  to  the  social 
state  of  the  country  and  the  everyday  life  of  the  inhabitants 
at  that  time. 

Here  then  is  a  petition  from  the  local  administration  of 
Bordighera  to  the  Syndics  of  Ventimiglia,  from  whicli  we 

K  2 


132 


LOCAL   HISTOEY. 


learn  that  in  Marcli  1619  the  population  of  the  Commune 
numbered  about  one  thousand  inhabitants. 

I  give  below  a  free  translation  of  this  petition,  which 
may  be  found  in  the  French  edition  of  this  work : 

"Most  Excellent  Signori, — 

"  Signor  Giovauni  Battista  di  Francbi,  tlie  Commissioner,  Sec, 
having  visited  the  town  of  Burdighetta,  &c.,  has  found  amongst  other 
things  that  in  this  locality  tlie  hread  made  is  worse  than  had,  it  being 
black  and  of  inferior  quality,  extremely  unwholesome  and  b armful,  not 
only  to  the  inhabitants  themselves,  but  to  the  numerous  persons  daily 
arriving  here  from  other  parts:  the  place  liaving  a  popuhition  of  some 
thousand  souls  or  thereabouts,  the  majority  of  whom  are  chiefly  sailors 
and  fishermen  of  very  small  means.  The  afore-mentioned  Commissioner 
feels  convinced  that  this  is  entirely  due  to  there  being  no  medrali  *  in 
the  above-named  place,  which  dei>ends  solely  on  those  of  Ventimiglia, 
&c.  The  officials  and  agents  of  the  said  district  of  Burdigiietta  throw 
themselves,  therefore,  upon  the  kindness  of  y  'ir  esteemed  and 
honoured  Signorie,  entreating  you  of  your  goodne&s  to  sanction  this 
decree,  (fee." 


This  prayer  for  a  consideration  of  their  case  received 
only  an  evasive  reply :  "  The  question  would  be  examined." 
But  no  satisfaction  having  been  given  them,  and  the  state 
of  affairs  remaining  unchanged,  the  inhabitants  of  Bordi- 
ghera  returned  to  the  charge  in  August  1633,  with  a 
touching  and  interesting  petition,  from  which  we  learn, 
amongst  other  facts,  some  details  as  to  the  state  of 
communication  then  existing  between  the  two  towns. 

The  point  of  this  new  petition  was  something  like  the 
following : 

*  The  mestralt — in  this  case  "sellers  "  '  f-  >>rn  or  flour — were  the  merchants 
who  had  the  privilege  of  selling  to  the  public  the  commodities  monopolised  by 
the  townships :  a  position  analogous  to  that  of  the  tobacconists  of  the  i>rescnt 
day  in  France  and  Italy. 


THE   EMANCIPATION   OF  THE   COMMUNES. 


133 


"  Most  Respected  Signori, — 

"  The  town  of  Burdighetta  is  inhabited  by  poor  fishermen  and 
sailors,  three-fourths  of  whom  live  on  a  mere  pittance,  and  buy  their 
bread  of  small  retail  bakers,  neither  sowing  nor  reaping  anything  upon 
which  they  might  live,  subsisting  only  upon  the  small  profits  they 
make  by  fishing  and  seafiiring. 

"  It  has  always  been  the  custom  for  the  last  ninety  years, — indeed, 
beyond  that  time  there  is  no  recollection  to  the  contrary, — that  the 
agents  of  that  town  annually  sell  the  monopoly  of  bread-making  in  the 
open  market  to  persons  wlio  undertake  to  provide  bread  for  the  use  of 
the  aforesaid  town,  together  with  the  grain  from  which  it  is  male,  as 
has  ever  hitherto  been  the  custom ;  a  custom  established  by  Mon- 
signore  Marcello  Invrea  and  confirmed  by  sundry  acts  passed,  &c.  .  .  . 

"  Everyone  intending  to  make  bread  must  have  his  name  inscribed 
for  that  purpose,  neither  is  he  able  to  make  bread  or  anything  else,  save 
from  grain  procured  from  the  magazine  established  at  Ventimiglia, 
under  penalty,  &c.  .  .  . 

"  And  because,  most  noble  Signori,  there  are  between  Burdighetta 
and  Ventimiglia  two  wide  rivers  and  two  torrents,  which  frequently 
delay  communication  for  ten  days,  or  at  least  render  it  difficult ;  there 
are  times  when  neither  wheat  nor  anything  else  is  to  be  obtained :  And 
further  also,  it  sometimes  happens  in  times  of  scarcity  that  wheat  is 
refused  to  our  bakers,  on  the  plea  that  the  magazine  is  empty  and 
without  grain  ;  whereas,  our  city,  if  provisioned  by  private  individuals, 
need  never  be  in  want  of  bread,  and  would  not  be  dependent  upon  your 
own  (where  provisions  alone  can  be  obtained  from  the  aforesaid  bakers), 
and  thus  a  famine  may  be  averted  : 

"  We  therefore  appeal  for  help  at  the  feet  of  your  most  excellent 
Lordships,  throwing  ourselves  upon  your  kindness  and  clemency, 
humbly  supplicating,  &c.  &c.  . 


'J 


But  still  the  same  result. 

And  now  we  come  upon  a  petition  whose  charming 
naivete  compels  me  to  place  an  English  translation  in 
extenso  before  my  readers;  besides  which  it  contains  an 
allusion  to  the  new  church,  the  construction  of  which  had 
evidently  been  undertaken  about  this  time,  and  which  it 
was  intended  should  replace,  as  a  more  worthy  building, 
the  little  primitive  chapel  built  by  the  first  colonists  on 


134 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


the  site   of  the  present  "Casa   Palanea."      This  church 
became  later  on  the  Oratory  of  St.  Bartholomew. 

"Most  Excellent  and  Honoubable  Lords,— 

"  As  your  Excellencies  are  well  aware,  the  district  of  Burdighetla 
represents  one  of  the  principal  valleys  in  your  Lordships'  jurisdiction, 
not  on  account  of  its  wealtli,  for  it  is  a  very  i)oor  locality,  but  owing  to 
the  extraordinary  faith  and  devotion  it  has  always  shown  ;  also,  from 
the  fiict  that  it  is  situated  ui)on  the  sea-coast  and  in  a  position  more 
exposed  than  any  other  promontory  in  all  Liguria ;  it  has  consequently 
been  more  liable  to  receive  the  first  brunt  of  the  attacks  of  corsairs  and 
pirates ;  thus  covering  by  its  defence  on  the  west  side  all  the  tract  of 
coast  to  Ventimiglia,  at  least  three  miles  in  length,  as  well  as  the  wliole 
coast  beyond  as  far  as  Monaco ;  and  on  the  eastern  side,  all  the  hills 
and  coast  line  as  far  as  the  Cape  of  San  Kemo :  And  as,  by  the  Divine 
goodness,  there  are  in  that  town  as  many  as  one  hundred  and  thirty 
fighting  men  of  valour  both  in  sea  and  land  engagements,  and  not 
inferior  to  those  of  any  other  inhabitants  of  Liguria  :  and  whereas,  on 
account  of  the  sterility  of  the  soil,  the  poverty  of  the  sea,  the  heavy 
taxation  of  three  hundred  crowns  annually  paid  to  your  city  of  Venti- 
miglia,  and  the  large  debts  incurred  by  private  individuals  who  live  in 
so  great  misery  and  destitution  that  the  larger  portion  of  the  inhabi- 
tonts  go  barefoot  and  almost  naked,  subsisting  upon  herbs  and  drinking 
water,  and  exposed  to  the  inclemencies  of  wind  and  sea,  of  heat,  and 
cold,  and  rain,— as  if  they  had  been  so  many  beasts  of  the  field,— whilst 
still  they  are  orderly  and  well-behaved  citizens,  of  good  manners  and 
religious ;  so  much   so,   indeed,   that  they   have  pinched  and  denied 
themselves  even  of  their  scanty  supply  of  bread,  encountering  hunger 
in  order  that  they  may  build  their  church,  which  is  now  one  of  the 
handsomest  in  the  neighbourhood,  &c.  .  .  . 

"  Further,  about  eight  and  thirty  years  ago  the  men  of  this  town 
were  furnished  by  your  honourable  Republic  with  arms  and  artillery 
for  the  seasonable  defence  of  the  city  of  Ventimiglia,  of  the  other  towns 
of  the  coast  and  of  this  town  itself,- a  precaution  which  at  that  time 
appeared  necessary,  and  this  defence  was  always  made  with  promptitude 
and  courage ;  and  for  their  maintenance,  as  well  as  for  arms  and  ammu- 
nition, according  to  the  custom  of  the  times,  they  were  always  aided 
by  the  said  city  of  Ventimiglia  with  regard  to  powder,  timber,  and 
trenching  tools,  as  can  even  now  he  proved  by  the  public  records  of  the 
said  city.    But  now,  need  having  arisen  for  tlie  repair  of  many  things, 


THE   EMANCIPATION   OF   THE   COMMUNES. 


135 


conformable  with  an  order  and  decree  issued  to  Francesco  Molinaro  and 
Gaspar  Rainero,  Consuls  of  the  said  city,  which  is  now  brought  before 
us,  these  Consuls  having  referred  the  matter  to  the  Parliament  of  the 
City,  in  order  that  the  rates  might  be  proix)rtionally  lowered,— as  was 
customary  in  these  requirements  on  the  contingency  of  the  place  being 
invaded  by  Corsairs  who  infest  our  coast,— they  were  not  only  left 
without  help,  but  they  received  such  a  repulse  that  they  were  provoked, 
contrary  to  their  own  iocli nation,  which  had  never  been  to  quarrel  or 
complain  of  the  said  city,  to  send  Stephen  Rainero,  their  Syndic,  to 
your  illustrious  Lordships,  that  he  might  relate  to  you  truthfully  and 
respectfully  what  is  here  related,  and  at  the  same  time  make  supplica- 
tion that  you  would  vouchsafe  so  to  arrange  matters  that  this  city  may, 
in  conformity  with  established  usage,  and  to  meet  present  emergencies, 
provide  whatever  that  Captain  orders :  as  Don  Stephen,  Syndic,  humbly 
petitions,  relying  ui>on  the  kindness  of  your  illustrious  Lordship,  to 
whom,  &c.  ..." 

This  letter  does  not  bear  any  date,  but  the  period  is 
fixed  by  the  curtly  official  negative  which  was  its  only 
answer,  and  which  was  dispatched  on  the  23rd  of  March 

1622. 

It  is  not  worth  our  while  to  go  on  multiplying  in- 
definitely these  touching  addresses  or  repeat  similar 
instances.  Those  which  we  have  already  placed  before 
our  readers  are  sufficient  to  show  that  the  position  of  the 
Communes  at  this  time  was  such  that  they  could  only 
pray  for  some  propitious  chance  which  might  enable  them 
to  throw  off  the  now  unbearable  yoke  of  Ventimiglia. 
And  it  was  not  long  before  the  opportunity  presented 
itself:  the  cord  was  already  stretched  to  the  breaking 
point,  and  the  slightest  further  strain  alone  was  wanting 
to  bring  about  a  fracture. 

However,  it  was  not  Bordighera  after  all,  but  Campo- 
rosso,  which  had  the  privilege  of  giving  the  signal  for 
resistance  against  the  common  enemy :  besides  too,  she 


V 


136 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


had  a  special  grievance  of  her  own  against  her  Ventiiiiiglian 
masters. 

During  the  war  of  1672,  the  Genoese  Kepublic  sent  a 
body  of  troops  to  protect  Ventimiglia  against  the  forces  of 
Victor  Amadeus  I.,  who  was  anxious  to  obtain  command 
of  the  valley  of  the  Roya.  These  troops  were  garrisoned 
for  some  time  at  Camporosso,  but  on  the  Commune 
making  a  claim  for  indemnity  for  the  expenses  they  liad 
incurred  in  respect  of  the  Genoese  battalions,  their 
demand  was  most  curtly  reiected,  in  spite  of  the  especial 
justness  of  the  demand. 

Thfs  unexpected  refusal  to  so  just  a  elai.  was  the  last 
straw  on  the  back  of  the  long-suffering  Commune,  and  raised 
its  inhabitants  to  a  pitch  of  irritation.  Public  meetings 
were  held  to  protest,  and  the  word  "  emancipation "  was 
pronounced.  Under  such  circumstances,  the  new  idea 
could  not  fail  to  become  popular;  so  on  the  14th  of 
December,  1682,  the  Commune  addressed  tolthe  Supreme 
Senate  of  Genoa  the  following  prayer,  from  which  we  give 
an  extract  in  an  English  form : 


"Most  Noble  Lords, — 

"The  district  of  Camporosso  and  its  inhabitants,  being  con- 
tinually burdened  with  imposts  laid  upon  them  by  the  agents  of  the 
community  of  Ventimiglia,  the  said  agents  comi>elling  the  district  and 
its  inhabitants  to  take  their  share  in  defraying  the  expenses  which 
only  affect  the  benefit  and  convenience  of  the  said  city  of  Ventimiglia ; 
and  being  desirous  of  separating  themselves  in  matters  concerning  the 
expenses  of  the  said  community  and  city  of  Ventimiglia,  and  paying 
only  such  a  share  as  may  suffice  for  their  own  wants ;  hereby  pray  your 
Lordships  that  they  may  be  rated  a  specific  sum,  as  they  may  be  able 
to  afford,  by  the  captinate  of  that  city,  and  may  be  freed  from  the 
imposts  continually  laid  upon  them,  and  from  the  disputes  which  are 
constantly  arising  in  consequence  of  the  aforesaid  expenditure  and 
ever-increasing  taxation :  in  which  hojie  we  join,  &c.  .  .  ." 


k 


THE   EMANCIPATION  OF  THE   COMMUNES. 


137 


i 


^ 


This  act  of  Camporosso  would  probably  have  borne  no 
fruit  if  it  had  not  found  imitators  in  the  sister  Communes ; 
but  the  agitation  promptly  spread  to  Bordighera,  where 
the  discontent  was  even  more  keenly  accentuated  by  the 
Fishing  Tax  which  was  levied  on  this  locality,  by  reason 
of  its  being  almost  exclusively  inhabited  by  fishermen, 
but  the  remaining  six  Communes  were  not  slow  in 
following  so  inspiriting  and  contagious  an  example. 

The  Senate  of  Genoa  soon  found  itself  in  the  presence 
of  eight  demands  for  administrative  separation  from 
the  eight  Communes  dependent  upon  the  Captinate 
of  Ventimiglia.  But  these  Communes  did  not  claim 
political  independence,  only  internal  autonomy ;  in  other 
words,  their  cry  was  that  so  familiar  to  our  ears  in  the 
present  day:  "Home  Kule,"  or  the  right  of  internal 
government  in  their  own  way  and  the  administration  of 
their  own  finances ;  whilst  offering  at  the  same  time  to 
continue  to  contribute  to  the  just  expenses  of  the 
"  Capitanato  and  the  town  of  Ventimiglia,"  but  only  the 
proportion  which  fairly  might  fall  to  each  Commune. 
In  spite  of  the  strong  and  natural  opposition  of  the  town 
of  Ventimiglia,  the  Senate  could  not  refuse  a  demand  so 
fair,  so  moderately  put  forward,  and  which  practically  did 
no  sort  of  injury  to  the  Eepublic,  and  the  decree  of 
emancipation  was  not  long  in  appearing.  It  was  dated 
the  11th  of  February,  1683. 

But  certain  provisions  of  this  decree  relative  to  the 
boundaries  of  the  various  townships  and  the  division  of 
the  public  revenues,  failed  to  meet  with  the  approval  of 
the  Communes,  and  protracted  negotiations  ensued.  It 
was  over  this  dispute  that  printing  was  made  use  of  for 
the  first  time,  probably,  in  this  part  of  Italy.     The  Re- 


138 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


public,  honestly  anxious  to  bring  all  parties  into  liarmony, 
sent  a  special  Commissioner  to  the  various  towns,  who  was 
successful  in  his  efforts,  but  only,  it  appears,  after  the 
lapse  of  some  years,  in  reconciling  the  opposing  interests 
of  the  town  of  Ventimiglia  and  the  Communes. 

In  the  meantime,  however,  these  latter  had  already 
taken  advantage  of  the  decree  of  the  11th  of  February  to 
grasp  their  autonomy.  A  notarial  act,  accepting  the 
principle  of  the  separation,  was  signed  by  tlie  authorities 
of  each  locality,  and  below  is  given  a  translation  of  that 


of  Bordighera : 


In  the  Name  of  God,  Amen. 


"In  the  year  1683,  on  Tlmrsday,  the  4th  of  March,  at  Biirdighetta, 
in  the  oratory  of  St.  Rai  tbolomew,  in  the  presence  of  Messrs.  Francesco 
Bianchero  (son  of  Giovanni),  Tlielamo  Gerbaldo  (son  of  Agostino), 
Stefano  Alberteri  (son  of  Bartolomeo),  and  Giovanni  Bait.  Arrigo  (son 
of  Francesco),  Agefits*  and  with  thein,  Giovanni  Batt.  Gerbaldo  (son 
of  Marco),  and  Antonio  Bianchero,  Consuls*  of  the  above-mentioned 
place,  who,  having  been  informed  of  the  decree  made  hy  the  most 
excellent  Magistrate  of  the  communities  on  the  11th  of  February  last, 
granting  permission  for  the  separation  of  the  villages  (of  Camporosso, 
San  Biagio,  Soldano,  Vallecrosia,  Sasso,  Vallebuona,  Borghetto,  and 
Burdighetta  (otherwise  Bordighera),  hereafter  referred  to  as  "The 
Eight  Towns ")i  from  the  city  (civUas)  of  Ventimiglia:  By  this 
present  act  state  and  declare  that  they  accept  the  separation,  with 
the  protest,  that  in  the  articles  to  be  drawn  up  with  regard  to  their 
taxation,  this  place  (of  Burdighetta)  be  charged  only  a  just  rate  in 
proportion  to  its  territory  and  appurtenances,  and  not  at  the  rate  of  the 
taxes  raised  from  it  heretofore. 

"And  further,  that  if  it  be  necessary  to  have  a  de^tuty,  they  elect 
and  depute  Benedetto  GerbaUlo  (sou  of  Agostino),  here  present  (with 
the  condition  that  lie  does  not  undertake  that  post  unless  the  said 
place  (Burdighetta)  is  charged  in  every  respect  as  has  l)een  laid  down 

♦  "Agents'*  and  "Consuls"  were  the  titles  of  the  delegates  hitherto 
representing  the  eight  villages  at  Ventimiglia.— A.  C.  D. 


♦THE   CONFEDERATION   OF   THE   EIGHT   TOWNS.       139 

above),  so  that  this  place  may  have  an  opportunity  of  protesting,  not 
only  as  above-mentioned  (i.  e.  through  its  deputy),  but  in  every  other 
better  way,  as  may  be  necessary,  reserving  to  itself  an  appeal  to  the 
n)ost  Serene  Senate  (of  Genoa),  or  whatever  may  appear  best,  in  the 
case  of  any  grievance  arising  as  to  the  before-mentioned  matters. 

"  Given  in  the  year  and  day  as  above,  in  the  presence  of  Bartholomew 
Rainero  (son  of  Pietro)  and  G.  M.  Palanca  (son  of  Giovanni),  witnesses 

to  the  above.  ,^  „ 

"  Gaspake  Noaro,  Notary: 


CHAPTEE  XL 

THE  CONFEDERATION  OF  THE  EIGHT  TOWNS. 

The  Eight  Communes :  their  boundaries  and  population  —  Act  of 
Feder°ation  of  1686— Penal  and  civil  codes— Development  of  the 
Confederation  and  vicissitudes  of  Ventimiglia  up  to  the  French 
occupation— Church  building  at  Bordighera— Conversion  of  the 
tower  into  a  belfry— Removal  of  the  drawbridges  and  opening  of 
new  gates. 

We  have  not  happily  to  concern  ourselves  any  longer  with 
eight  little  dependent  Communes,  crushed  and  impoverished 
by  a  rapacious  suzerain,  and  presenting  humble  petitions, 
commending  themselves  to  his  pity  and  clemency,  in 
hopes  of  obtaining  some  remission  of  the  taxation  which 
was  crushing  them;  but,  starting  from  the  spring  of  1683, 
find  ourselves  face  to  face  with  a  very  different  and  far 
happier  state  of  afif^iirs.  For  now  we  see  in  their  place  the 
Magnifica  Communitas  Locorum  Odo,  which  promulgates  its 
own  laws,  fixes  the  amount  of  its  taxation  by  its  own  choice, 
and  treats,  on  the  most  perfect  terms  of  equality,  with  its 
old  oppressors  of  bygone  days.  And  one  should  not  fail 
to  notice  the  determined  line  taken  by  the  Consuls  and 


n 


140 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


Agenh  of  Bordigliera  when  face  to  face  with  those  of 
Ventimiglia,  in  the  proceedings  of  which  we  have  given 
an  account  at  the  end  of  last  chapter,  and  the  stringency 
of  the  orders  which  they  imposed  on  the  delegate  entrusted 
with  the  management  of  the  affair. 

The  community  of  the  "Eight  Towns"  was  composed  of 
the  Communes  of  (1)  Camporosso  {Campus  Buheus),  in  the 
valley  of  the  Nervia  ;*  (2)  San  Biagio  ( Villa  Martis)  ;  (3) 
Soldano,  and  (4)  Vallecrosia  in  the  valley  of  the  same 
name ;  (5)  Sasso ;  (6)  Vallebuona,  and  (7)  Borghetto,  in 
the  adjoining  valley  ;  and  (8)  Bordighera  on  the  Cape  of 
St.  Ampelio.  It  is  in  fact  the  modern  Canton  (Mandamento) 
of  Bordighera,  plus  the  commune  of  Camporosso  and 
minus  that  of  Seborga.  The  boundaries  to  the  east  and 
north  are  identical  with  those  of  the  present  Communes, 
save  that  the  territory  of  Camporosso  extended  further 
beyond  the  right  bank  of  the  Nervia  than  it  does  now,  and 
followed  the  boundary  line  of  the  Ventimiglian  territory 
along  the  crest  of  the  foremost  hills. 

This  boundary  descended  probably  towards  the  shore  by 
the  ridge  of  Colla  Sgarha  and  the  Torre  Orengo,  a  massive 
construction  which  still  exists,  though  in  a  state  of  ruin ; 
and  which,  like  the  tower  of  Mostaccini  on  a  hill  near 
Bordighera,  served  as  an  Avisium  from  which  the  sea  could 
be  watched  and  notice  given  of  the  approach  of  pirates. 
The  neighbourhood  of  the  Colla  Sgarha  (or  Pierced  Hill) 
took  its  name  from  a  tunnel  which  runs  through  the  hill 
from  one  side  to  the  other.  It  is  well  worth  a  visit  from  all 
pedestrians,  for  the  view  obtained  from  it  is  as  beautiful  as 

*  It  is  asserted  that  the  name  Campus  Rubens  was  suggested  by  the  number- 
less blossoms  of  the  oleander  [Xcn'ntn  olemiAcr),  which  give  a  red  tint  to  the 
banks  of  shingle  in  this  torrent,  especially  in  the  month  of  June. 


li 


THE   CONFEDERATION   OF   THE   EIGHT   TOWNS.       141 

it  is  unexpected.  It  is  difficult  to  fix  precisely  the  date  of 
the  foundation  of  these  villages;  Camporosso  and  San 
Biagio  are  probably  the  oldest,  after  them  Borghetto; 
Sasso  and  Bordighera  being  the  most  modern.  The  popu- 
lation of  the  eight  towns  at  the  time  of  emancipation  is 
equally  difficult  to  fix ;  but  it  is  most  probable  that  it 
would  not,  at  the  very  utmost,  exceed  the  total  of  5000 

souls. 

This  figure  may  perhaps  appear  below  the  truth,  but 
I  do  not  see  how  it  is  possible  to  raise  it.  I  have  obtained 
it  by  allowing  one  thousand  inhabitants  to  Bordighera,  the 
same  number  to  Camporosso,  and  three  thousand  to  the 
six  other  Communes ;  that  is  to  say,  their  present  popula- 
tion. 

Under  the  rule  of  Ventimiglia,  the  Communes  were 
governed  by  two  "  Consuls,"  who  with  the  "  Agents  "  were 
appointed  by  the  Civitas ;  they  elected,  together,  a  third 
of  the  members  of  Parliament,  but  they  had  not  any  direct 
influence  in  the  administration  of  public  affairs ;  neither 
could  their  citizens  be  magistrates  or  hold  any  civil  or 
public  office  or  superior  appointment  of  any  kind. 

But  under  the  new  regime,  the  posts  of  "  Consul  "  and 
**  Agent "  disappear,  and  the  executive  power  is  confided  to 
four  "Syndics,"  nominated  by  the  Parliament  and  all 
residents  in  those  of  the  four  divisions  of  the  Confederation 
where  the  Parliament  for  the  time  being  is  sitting.  These 
divisions  were  four,  not  eight  in  number,  owing  to  the  fact 
that  the  Communes  in  each  of  the  valleys  of  Borghetto 
and  Vallecrosia  were  united  iu  a  single  municipality. 

The  Parliament,  composed  of  twenty-four  deputies,  was 
renewed  each  year,  and  it  sat  for  a  term  of  three  years  in 
each  of  the  four  divisions.    One  peculiar  feature  in  the 


142 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   CONFEDERATION   OF   THE   EIGHT   TOWNS.       143 


organisation  of  the  Eight  Towns  was  the  mode  of  electing 
the  Parliament ;  it  was  purely  self-elective  :  the  retiring 
members  selected  their  successors. 

After  their  emancipation  the  eight  Communes  decided 
to  associate  together  in  the  task  of  drawing  up  a  code  of 
laws  which  should  be  binding  upon  all.  Their  deed  of 
Federation,  signed  on  the  20th  of  April,  1616,  is  quite 
worth  insertion  here,  almost  in  its  entirety,  in  spite  of  its 
length,  as  an  interesting  specimen  of  the  documents  of  that 
time;  and  also  as  it  contairis  the  official  statute  of  tlie 
Confederation : 

THE  DEED  OF  CONVENTION  OF  THE  EIGHT  TOWNS. 

"In  the  Name  of  God,  Amen. 

"  In  the  year  of  tlie  Nativity  1686,  on  the  afternoon  of  Sunday  tlie  20th 
of  April,  in  the  oratory  of  St.  Bartholomew  at  Burdighetta  (Burdighera). 
AVhereas  the  villages  of  Camporosso,  Bnrdighetta,  Vallelmoiia,  Bor- 
ghetto,  San  Biagio,  Soldano,  and  Sasso,  have  received  ixjrmission 
from  the  most  exctllent  magistrate  of  the  communities  to  separate 
themselves  from  the  city  of  Ventimiglia  in  all  that  belongs  to  the 
said  villages,  and  which  has  hitherto  been  in  common  with  the  said 
city,  the  most  worthy  Signor  Gerolamo  Invrea  has  been  elected  Com- 
missioner to  execute  the  said  decree : 

"And  as  at  present  it  is  still  uncertain  what  propjrtion  the  above- 
mentioned  villages  are  expected  to  contribute  by  taxation  or  rates 
towards  the  revenue  of  the  said  city  (such  sums  having  been  liitherto 
merged  in  a  common  fund),  it  is  desirable  tliat  such  taxation  and  rates 
should  be  set  forth  in  the  deed  of  separation  : 

"  And  it  being  expedient  further,  that  the  above-mentioned  villages 
should  not  only  maintain  a  good  understanding  between  each  other, 
but  also  union  and  concord  for  the  preservation  of  peace  as  ne"ghbours 
and  friends,  they  hereby  apiwint  (six)ntaneously  and  in  the  manner 
which  seemeth  best  to  them),  Messrs  Paolo  Gerbaldo  (son  of  Agostino), 
Gio.  Batt  Molinari  (son  of  Pietro),  and  Giacomo  Molinari  (son  of 
Giov.  Aoto.),  now  *  Agents '  of  this  village  of  Burdighetta,  and  also 
Giov.  Batt.  Bianchero,  their  colleague  (who  is  now  ill),  *  Deputies,'  to 


represent  the  majority  of  this  place,  in  conformity  with  the  deeds 
witnessed  by  me  as  Notary.  .  .  .* 

" .  .  .  .  And  the  above-mentioned  gentlemen  declare  that  the 
separation  taking  place,  all  such  portion  of  the  charges  and  revenue 
connected  with  public  projxjrty,  as  also  all  sums  raised  by  duties 
upon  the  sale  of  fish,  by  concessions,  either  for  pasturage  or  vege- 
tables, upon  the  manufacture  of  oil  and  of  wine,  by  duties  uix)n 
contracts,  by  concessions  for  drawing  water  and  for  forced  labour,  by 
fines  for  damage  done  by  cattle,  by  duties  ui^n  grain,  by  tolls,  by 
duties  uix>n  stufifs,  silk  and  rags,  &c.,  which,  until  now,  have  been 
levied  by  the  city  (as  well  as  all  other  goods  and  chattels  that  may  be 
assigned  or  which  may  now  belong  to  them),  belong  to  the  above- 
mentioned  villages.  .  .  . 

"  They  then  (the  delegates),  for  the  good  government  of  the  said 
villages,  make  the  following  agreements,  uiK>n  the  conditions  and 
details  of  which  they  are  entirely  agreed  : 

"1.  That  after  the  separation  of  Ventimiglia  and  the  above- 
mentioned  villages,  the  latter  shall  elect  every  year  four  '  Syndics '  for 
the  good  government  of  the  said  villages,  whose  office  it  shall  be  to 
assist  in  the  *  Parliaments,*  whenever  they  may  be  convoked;  and 
although  they  may  not  vote  in  the  said  *  Parliaments '  they  shall  take 
part  in  the  sale  of  concessions  and  the  '  farming '  of  the  duties,  octroi, 
and  other  receipts,  which  the  villages  will  have  as  revenue. 

"2.  That  four  'Vendors*  shall  be  elected  with  the  four  'Syndics,' 
and  together  with  them  shall  be  responsible  for  the  sale  of  the  right  of 
*  farming '  the  duties,  concessions,  octroi,  and  ail  receipts  as  above 
referred  to ;  and  that  these  *  Vendors  *  shall  be  elected  in  the  following 
manner,  viz. :  one  for  Camp)rosso ;  one  l)etween  Vallecrosia,  San 
Biagio,  and  Soldano ;  one  between  Vallebuona,  Borghetto,  and  Sasso ; 
and  the  fourth  from  Burdighetta  (other\vise  Bordighera),  which 
elections  shall  be  valid  for  tliree  years,  the  right  of  farming  the  duties, 
&c.,  being  also  for  a  like  period. 

"3.  That  every  year  twenty-four  persons  shall  be  elected  for  the 
said  villages  and  form  a  Council  or  Parliament  (such  persons  being 
at  the  least  tw^enty-five  years  of  age),  viz.,  six  for  Camporosso ;  six  for 
the  valley  of  Vallecrosia,  San  Biagio,  and  Soldano ;  six  for  the  valley 
of  Vallebuona,  Borghetto,  and  Sasso  ;  and  the  other  six  for  Burdighetta 


*  I  have  omitted  the  paragraphs  similar  to  that  quoted  with  regard  to 
Bordighera  which  speak  of  the  elections  of  Deputies  for  the  other  seven 
Communes. — A.  C.  D. 


f 


144 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


FEDERATION   OF   THE   EIGHT   TOWNS. 


145 


(Bordigliera) ;  and  in  the  said  'Parliament'  nothing  shall  he  de- 
termined without  the  concurrence  of  four-fifths  of  the  whole  number  of 
votes,  *this  being  in  order  that  one  valley  shall  not  oppress  anotlier.* 

(lit). 

"  4.  That  the  said  elections  of  *  Syndics '  shall  take  place  first  of 
all  in  the  village  of  Camix^rosso,  and  continue  for  three  years  ;  when 
this  term  has  passed  there  shall  be  elections  for  the  valley  of  Valle- 
crosia,  also  for  three  years ;  then  for  the  village  of  Burdighetta,  and  so, 
in  this  order,  it  shall  l>egin  again  *  and  go  on  for  ever.'  (lit.) 

"  5.  That  the  said  Parliament  shall  always  meet  in  the  village  or 
the  valley  where  the  Syndics  may  be,  and  tliat  the  said  Parliament 
shall  be  convoked  by  the  order  of  the  said  Syndics  u|X)n  every  occasion 
(they  think  necessary),  it  (i.  e.  the  Parliament)  having  authority  to 
discuss  and  deliberate  iiix>n  all  that  may  be  useful,  necessary,  or 
exjiedient  for  the  said  villages,  according  to  Article  3,  and  with  the 
assistance  of  the  said  Syndics,  or  at  least  a  majority  of  them ;  and 
whoever,  being  elected  to  the  said  Parliament,  sliall  fail  to  resixmd  to 
the  summons,  shall  render  himself  liable  to  a  fine  of  a  golden  scudo,  to 
be  paid  to  the  Communities. 

"6.  That  every  three  years  two  cn|>ablc  and  fit  'cashiers'  (or  tax- 
collectors)  shall  be  apiwinted,  whose  duties  sliall  lye  to  collect  all 
receipts,  taxes,  &c.,  from  tlie  said  villages,  in  order  that  they  may, 
with  them,  pay  all  charges  as  may  belong  to  tliem  ;  which  taxes,  if  at 
the  end  of  three  years  they  have  not  collected  and  given  an  account 
of,  they  must  supply  themselves  ;  and  this  shall  take  place  in  tlie  same 
valley  or  village  where  the  Syndics  shall  be ;  and  farther,  that  such 
Cashiers  from  this  time  forth  shall  be  paid  (as  remuneration)  2  jxir 
cent,  on  the  total,  in  equal  parts. 

"  7.  That  if  any  of  those  elected  to  the  Parliament  shall  foil  to  attend, 
others  may  be  substituted  from  the  valley  or  Communes  where  the 
Parliament  shall  then  be. 

"  8.  That  in  the  village  or  valley  where  the  Parliament  is  convoked, 
all  concessions,  duties  and  receipts  which  the  villages  have  in  common 
shall  be  sold  by  auction  (i.e.  farmed  out). 

**  9.  That  on  the  first  occasion,  the  Parliament  shall  be  elected  in  the 
following  manner,  viz.:  the  Agents  and  Officials  for  the  Commune 
of  Camporosso  shall  elect  six  persons  for  the  said  Commune ;  the 
officials  of  Vallecrosia  six  for  the  valley  ;  the  officials  of  the  Commune 
of  Burdighetta,  other  six  for  the  same  place ;  and  the  officials  of  Valle- 
buona,  other  six  for  the  whole  of  that  valley  ;  and  that  the  first  Parlia- 
ment shall  take  care  to  elect  its  successor,  and  composed  of  the  persons 


M 


i 


■f 

1 


described  as  above,  and  further,  that  the  expiring  Parliament  shall 
always  create  the  new  one,  as  well  as  all  necessary  officials  for  the 
government  of  the  Communes. 

"  10.  That  the  first  delegates  of  the  Parliament  shall  require  the 
Syndics,  Vendors  and  Cashiers  to  elect  a  Public  Crier,  such  crier  to  be 
elected  by  a  majority  of  four-fifths  of  those  voting,  and  this  the  Parlia- 
ment (2>ro  tempore)  sitting  shall  always  continue  to  do. 

"  11.  That  all  the  Syndics,  Vendors,  Members  of  Parliament,  Delegates 
and  Cashiers  who  shall  be  elected,  shall  not  in  any  way  be  able  to 
excuse  themselves,  although  they  shall  be  allowed  some  privileges  as 
compensation. 

"  12.  That  the  Syndics  who  shall  be  elected,  2)ro  tempore^  shall  not 
incur  any  expenses  which  have  not  first  been  authorised,  after  full  dis- 
cussion, by  the  Parliament,  with  the  exception  of  that  which  shall  be 
paid  to  the  excellent  Chamber  as  annual  tribute  (the  annual  tribute  to 
Genoa),  and  other  real  and  personal  debts  excepted,  which  may  be 
necessary;  should,  however,  occasion  arise  when  outlay  is  necessary  for  the 
jmblic  service,  but  only  for  objects  which  have  been  already  approved. 

"  13.  That  every  year  four  Master  Controllers  (or  Auditors)  shall  be 
elected  by  the  said  Parliament,  wliose  duty  it  shall  be  to  examine  the 
accounts  presented  by  the  Cashiers  at  the  end  of  each  three  years  (even 
if  it  should  be  a  month  after  the  expiration  of  their  office),  in  the 
presence  of  the  Syndics,  or  at  the  least  of  the  greater  number  of  them  ; 
and  the  said  election  of  Master  Controllers  (or  Auditors)  shall  be  made 
in  the  same  manner  as  that  of  the  Vendors,  as  indicated  in  Article  2. 

"  14.  That  with  regard  to  tlie  tax  on  the  marine  {probably  some 
charge  upon  fishing  and  coasting  craft),  and  also  the  tax  upon  meat 
(with  regard  to  which  latter,  the  division  has  already  been  made),  it  is 
not  intended  that  any  change  be  made  between  the  said  villages. 

"  15.  That  the  expenses  incurred  up  to  the  present  time  or  which 
may  be  incurred  with  regard  to  the  separation,  as  also  the  tax  upon 
wine  (which  has  already  been  decided  by  the  most  excellent  magistrates 
of  the  Communes),  shall  be  paid  pro  raid,  by  each  one  of  the  said 
villages. 

"  16.  That  the  collector  who  shall  receive  the  taxes  shall  be  obliged 
to  appoint  some  person  in  each  one  of  the  said  villages  to  whom  pay- 
ment can  be  made  and  by  whom  information  may  be  given. 

"  17.  That  each  one  of  the  villages  resi^ectively  shall  reserve  to  itself 
all  those  "  honours  "  (perhaps  "  royalties  "),  privileges,  rents  and  pos- 
sessions which  belong  to  each  one,  and  which  they  have  enjoyed 
previous  to  this  convention. 


I 


146 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


FEDERATION   OF    THE    EIGHT   TOWNS. 


147 


"  18.  That  whenever  additional  taxes  shall  be  necessary,  to  pay  debts 
or  for  other  purposes,  such  taxes  shall  be  levied  pro  raid  on  all  upon  the 
register ;  the  said  delegates  reserving  to  themselves  power  and  authority 
as  soon  as  the  separation  is  made,  to  alter,  moderate  or  increase  the  said 
conditions,  so  that  the  said  delegates  shall  give  their  votes,  should 
occasion  arise,  to  alter,  moderate  or  increase  (as  specified  above);  and 
should  the  said  delegates  not  agree,  tht-y  must  elect  two  learned  and 
skilful  persons  to  arbitrate  in  this  matter.  Of  which  things,  I,  Gaspare 
Noaro,  Notary,  do  hereby  testify  to,  in  the  said  village  of  Burdighetta, 
in  the  said  Oratory,  on  tlie  day  of  the  year  above  mentioned. 

(Signed)        Gaspare  Noaro,  Notary. 

,    ,,      ,  / PiETRO  PiAXA  (son  of  Gu-^liclmo), 

Witnesses  to  the  above,  Is^jj-i^i^o  Ariikjo  (son  of  Francesco). 

Tlie  deed  whicli  we  have  just  read  was  soon  completed 
by  the  addition  of  a  code  uf  Hi>ecial  hiws  both  civil  and 
penal ;  the  latter  being  remarkably  severe  even  to  their 
most  miiinte  details,  although  they  were  in  reality  merely 
bylaws  for  tlie  punishment  of  petty  offences.  Civil  hi\v,  and 
what  \\r  should  call  "  misdemeanours,"  are  not  combined 
in  tlie  above,  as,  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  confederation 

remaintd  still  under  the  iU noese  flag,  u»w  hgislation  on 

these  points  was  unnecessary.  The  Penal  Code  of  the 
Eight  Towns  is  especially  remarkable  for  its  minute  and 
Draconian  cliaraeter  ;  the  very  slightest  contraventions  of 
the  law  being  provide^l  against  and  punished  severely.  I 
give  a  few  instances,  whicli  I  think  will  amuse  my  readers: 


f( 


Gathering  snails  on  another's  liuid:  if  during  the  day-time  a  fine 
of  4  lire,  if  at  night  8  lire.  Stealing  leaves,  flowers,  and  small  or  large 
branches  (commonly  called  brutti  iralberi)  or  in  any  otlier  manner 
injuring  trees,  a  punishment  of  from  12  to  24  lire  at  the  discretion  of 
the  judge.  Stealing  vegetables  of  any  kind  whatever  from  lands 
adjoining  the  sea:  if  during  the  day-time  14  lire,  if  by  night  24  lire. 
Stealing  gates  from  another's  property  or  doing  the  same  any  sort  of 
injury,  either  by  breaking  or  carrying  away,  a  fine  of  20  lire.  Tres- 
passing on  another's  lands  or  breaking  down  openings,  a  punishment 


4 
( 


\ 


of  4  lire  ;  under  this  head  also  shall  be  classed  the  leading  of  public 
water-courses  across  the  lands  of  others,  also  appropriating  private 
water-courses." 

The  Confederation  of  the  Eight  Towns  existed  until  the 
French  occupation  at  the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century, 
thus  enjoying  an  existence  of  nearly  one  hundred  years. 
This  period  was  indeed  a  time  of  great  prosperity  for  the 
emancipated  and  federated  Communes  ;  as,  thanks  to  their 
separation  from  their  tyrannical  suzerain,  Ventimiglia, 
they  escaped  the  vicissitudes  which  seem  fated  to  pursue 
that  unfortunate  town.  For,  situated  as  it  was  upon  the 
frontier,  strongly  fortified,  and  at  the  mouth,  from  a 
strategic  point  of  view,  of  an  important  valley,  Venti- 
miMia  necessarily  continued  to  be  exposed  as  formerly  to 
foreign  disturbance  of  every  kind,  to  occupation  by  alien 
troops,  and  especially  to  the  liorrors  of  continual  sieges 
with  their  train  of  cruelties  and  sufferings. 

During  the  war  of  succession  which  raged  over  the  whole 
of  Europe  after  the  death  of  Charles  VI.  of  Austria  in 
1740,  Ventimiglia  was  taken  and  sacked  no  less  than  four 
times:  by  the  English  under  Admiral  Matthews  in  1742,* 
by  the  Spaniards  in  1745,  and  later  on  both  by  the 
Savoyards  and  the  French. 

At  the  end  of  the  period  which  is  now  occupying  our 
attention,  Bordighera  must  have  presented  very  much  the 
same  aspect  as  its  walls  and  bastions  do  now.  The  old 
parish  church,  begun  in  1600  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mary 
Mao-dalene,  was  converted  into  the  oratory  of  St.  Bartho- 

*  The  local  liistorians  seem  greatly  to  have  exaggerated  what  really 
occurred,  but  full  details  of  the  events  which  took  place  in  this  part  of  the- 
Riviera  during  the  Spanish  War,  and  the  part  played  by  the  English  fleet,  will 
be  found  iu  Chap.  xvii. — A.  C.  D. 


» If 


148 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


lomew  on  the  construction  of  the  present  building; 
the  ancient  tower,  which  had  originally  been  ereetod  to 
serve  as  an  Avisium,  being  altered  into  a  belfry  in  1750 ; 
whilst  the  same  year  saw  also  the  removal  of  the  draw- 
bridges from  both  the  then  existing  gateways ;  those  which 
are  known  to-day  as  the  Porta  a  Mare  and  the  Porte 
Sottane ;  the  Porta  cMla  Maddalena  being  opened  in  1780. 
The  fountain  wliich  occupies  the  centre  of  the  Piazza  to 
which  it  gives  its  name,  as  well  as  the  aqueduct  wliich 
supplies  it,  were  constructed  in  1783,  the  statue  above  the 
fountain  being  from  the  studio  of  the  Genoese  sculptor, 
Sivori.  But  this  period  of  prosperity  and  progress  was  not, 
alas  \  destined  to  be  indefinitely  prolonged.  The  French 
Revolution  was  almost  at  hand,  and  the  torch  of  war  was 
to  be  carried  by  its  baneful  influence  from  one  end  of 
Europe  to  the  other ;  for  that  continent  had  now  arrived  at 
one  of  the  most  eventful  periods  of  its  history,  and  Liguria, 
no  longer  to  be  left  sleeping  on  one  side,  was  sliortly  to 
become  the  theatre  of  events  of  the  most  stining  character. 
Rumours  of  war  were  in  the  air,  and  the  bugles  of  General 
Auselme  had  already  begun  to  awaken  the  echoes  on  the 
banks  of  the  Var. 


(     149     ) 


I* 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE   FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 

Annexation  of  the  "  County  "  of  Nice— Kevolution  at  Genoa  in  1797 
and  the  Provisional  Government— Enthusiasm  of  the  i^pulace— The 
Ligurian  Republic— The  First  Empire— Annexation  of  Liguria  and 
division  into  French  departments— The  Restoration  of  1814  and  the 
inecjriioration  of  Liguria  into  the  Kingdom  of  Sardinia. 

A  FEW  days  before  the  fall  of  the  throne — that  is  to  say,  in 
the  month  of  August  1792— the  Dumouriez  and  Eoland 
Cabinet  declared  war  with  Austria  and  the  Kingdom  of 
Sardinia,  and  immediately  concentrated  an  army  on  the 
banks  of  the  Var,  under  the  orders  of  Generals  Anselme 
and  de  Courten. 

But  the  Prussians  were  already  in  France,  and  in  pos- 
session of  the  eastern  departments,  and  it  w^as  not  until 
after  tlie  retreat  of  the  German  forces,  which  was  brought 
about  by  the  victory  of  Valmy  on  September  20th,  the 
same  day  upon  which  the  Eepublic  was  proclaimed,  that 
it  was  definitely  decided  to  take  the  offensive  upon  the 
Italian  frontier. 

The  first  step  was  precipitated  by  an  inexplicable  panic 
which  took  place  at  Nice.  The  rumour  having  been 
spread  about  that  the  French  troops  had  already  com- 
menced their  march,  the  Sardinian  forces  to  the  number 
of  10,000  men  and  sundry  battalions  of  French  refugees, 
who  were  organised  to  oppose  the  Kepublican  army,  were 
seized  with  a  sudden  panic,  and  without  waiting  to  find  out 
what  were  the  real  facts  of  the  case,  retired  precipitately 


I 


•I 


150 


LOCAL  IIISTORY. 


UDcler  the  guns  of  the  Fort  of  Saorgio,  in  the  u|»per  valley 

of  the  Roya. 

Anselme  took  advantage  of  this  retreat  to  occupy 
Nice  without  firing  a  shot,  hut  the  incorporation  of  the 
«  County  "  with  the  new  Republic  under  the  name  of  the 
department  of  the  *' Maritime  Alps"  did  not  take  place 
until  the  15th  May,  179G. 

The  annexation  of  Monaco  had  already  talvcn  place  as 
far  back  i.s  February  15th,  1793.  The  Princiiiality  was 
therefore  the  first  territory  ofiicially  united  to  France 
during  this  period  of  conquest. 

Some  time  in  the  spring  following  (about  the  25th  of 
April)  the  army  of  Italy— which  counted  in  its  ranks  not 
only  the  future  Marshal  3Iassena,  tlien  chef  de  hataillon, 
but  also  Napoleon  Bonaparte,  a  captain  in  the  artillery- 
gave  the  signal  for  the  invasion  of  Genoese  territory  by 
the  occupationofYentiiiiiglia,  establishing  their  advanced 
posts  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Nervia. 

But  after  a  delay  of  only  a  few  days  the  "Sans 
Culottes"  again  moved  forward  and  occupied  successively 
the  towns  of  KSan  Remo,  Porto  Manrizio,  and  Oncgliu,  and 
the  valley  of  the  Inqjero,  by  which  latter  ihcy  penetrated 
into  Piedmont. 

From  this  moment  the  whole  of  Eastern  Liguria  was 
subject  to  French  infiuence;  Genoa,  suiiporUnl  by  Nelson 
with  a  British  fleet,  alone  held  out,  but  it  was  only  a  tem- 
porary resistance  :  for  the  Government  of  the  Doge  liaving 
finally  declared  against  tlie  coalition,  a  revolution  took 
place  in  May  1797,  and  a  Provisional  Government  was 
formevi,  charged  with  the  task  of  preparing  the  consti- 
tution of  tlie  Ligurian  Republic,  based  on  tlie  juineiples 
of  '89. 


THE   FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 


151 


■ 


'l 


The  proclamation  of  Liberty  and  Equality  led,  as 
might  be  expected,  to  great  rejoicings  throughout  the 
whole  of  Liguria.  The  Genoese  and  the  semi-independent 
states  who  were  united  to  them  under  one  flag,  though 
nominally  enjoying  a  republican  form  of  Government,  had 
always  been  intensely  aristocratic  in  character.  An  im- 
passable barrier  divided  the  population  into  two  great 
divisions,  which  bore  the  names  respectively  of  the 
"  Magnifici "  and  the  "  Particolari " ;  in  other  words,  the 
upper  and  the  middle  classes. 

These  two  classes,  violently  hostile  to  each  other,  were 
ever  struggling  for  power,  which  had  hitherto  been  almost 
always  in  the  hands  of  the  "  Magnifici,"  who  had  exer- 
cised it  without  any  consideration  whatever  for  their 
opponents.  But  the  modern  idea  of  true  liberty  and 
equality  was  absolutely  unknown. 

One  can  therefore  well  understand  that  the  suppression 
of  social  distinctions  and  all  the  privileges  of  caste  was 
hailed  by  the  loiirgeoisie  as  the  commencement  of  an  era 
of    happiness   which   opened   for    them    new    and    vast 

horizons. 

As  soon  as  this  proclamation  became  known,  all  the 
Communes  which  formed  a  portion  of  Genoese  territory 
sent  deputations  to  the  metropolis  to  signify  to  the  Pro- 
visional Government  their  adhesion  to  the  new  order  of 
things,  and  to  offer  them  their  congratulations  on  having 
taken  so  decided  a  step. 

One  may  form  some  idea  of  the  enthusiasm  and  the 
spirit  which  animated  the  whole  country  by  the  following 
fragment,  which  I  have  extracted  from  a  discourse  de- 
livered on  the  26th  of  June  by  the  spokesman  of  the 
deputation  from  the  Eight  Towns.      As  the  heading   is 


152 


LOCAL    III8T01:Y 


peculiar,  I  give  it  in  the  original  ;  but  tlie   substance  is 
given  in  the  English  translation  :*— 


"  Libert A. 

"Cittadini  Provvisori.  .  .  ."t 


Eguaglianza.* 


"  LiBEBTY.  Equality . 

"Provisional  Citizens, — After  tliree  centuries  of  o])]>ressi(tn, 
siilfering  Inuiiaiiity  lias  at  length  thrown  .»ff  tlie  yoke  of  her  tyrants, 
and  dei>uted  I >y  the  i)eoi>le  of  the  Ei-^ht  Tttwns,  I  am  able  now  to 
s|">eak  to  yon,  no  l< »nger  as  fiTmerl}',  enervated  hy  tlio  seductive 
s[ileiidmrs  of  a  throne,  but  with  only  your  own  virtue  as  snrn>undings, 
and  to  make  you  acquainted  with  the  seutimcnts  of  my  fellow  citizens, 
concerning  the  past,  the  present,  and  tlie  future. 

"And  first,  as  to  the  past:  as  true  Ketuiblicnns,  we  rememl)er  it 
no  longer;  we  consign  it  to  oblivion,  and  if,  l»y  cIkiihc,  our  feet  should 
touch  again  some  link  of  our  now  bri»ken  eliaiu,  without  passion, 
witliout  desire  for  vengeance,  we  will  < »tfer  it  uix-n  the  altar  of  our 
country.  .  .  . 

"And  yon,  who  are  destined  tt»  preside  at  tlie  da\\ii  of  our  regenera- 
tion, wh"St'  valour  jusliiles  tlie  choice  of  vict'Tioiis  Italy,  continue 
your  noble  work  and  bring  it  to  a  sueeessfiil  issue,  proving  to  the 
neighlMjuring  peoples  tliat  you  can  exercise  your  sovereignty  in  a 
nifumer  just  and  proportionate;  so  tliat  when  you  ha\e  ended  your 
glorious  task,  you  may  lie  abh3  to  -ay:  '  IVoplc  ot  Liguria,  we  have 
brought  you  to  the  pates  t.f  tlie  temple  <'f  happint'ss;  it  (inly  remains 
for  you  to  o[)en  it  wide  and  draw  from  its  treasury  iiros|>€rity  ftir  [»resent 
and  future  generations.'  And  this  same  people  wi!l  answer  you,  *  We 
promise;  and  will  ever  render  tliauks  to  yon  for  the  wisdom  with  which 
yon  have  directed  this  revolution  :  a  wi  >o  -reat  tliat  it  should 

justly  be  an  example  and  model  to  other  nations.'  Aiicpt,  tlien,  the 
tribute  of  our  gratitude,  of  our  love,  of  our  n  vcn nee,  and  our  sincerest 
trust.  •  •  • 

♦  It  is  rat  hi  r  an  interesting  [)oint  in  tonnectinti  with  the  odicial  tlocauiicnts 
of  the  Genoese  Revolution,  that  though  nearly  all  bear  as  a  headiiii;  the  in- 
scription Liberfa,  K'juiiglkinzo,  and  some  Mnrtu,  V  hymiglianza,  the 
word    FraiernUii    is    always    conspicuous    by    its   absence    in    the     Liguriau 

PrJMlblic. 

t  This  singular  designation  of  the  members  of  the  rr('vi>i..na]  fH.\<rinnent 
!.->  not  a  careless  mistake,  but  is  constantly  recurring  throughout  a  mass  of 
documents  of  that  time. 


< 


n 


THE    FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 


153 


I 


The  first  constitution  of  the  Ligurian  Republic  is  dated 
the  1st  of  August,  1797.  It  established  the  equality  of  all 
citizens,  the  sovereignty  of  the  people,  liberty  of  con- 
science, and  granted  special  protection  to  local  industry 
and  trade.*  The  Legislative  power  was  confided  to  a  body 
composed  of  two  councils,  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  and 
of  sixty  members,  elected  by  universal  suffrage,  a  third  of 
which  was  renewed  each  year,  whilst  the  executive  was  a 
Directory  or  Cabinet  of  fifteen  members  nominated  by  the 
Leixislative  bodies. 

Under  the  new  organisation  the  country  was  divided 
into  thirty-two  districts,  having  each  a  central  administra- 
tion  composed  of  ^yq  members,  and  into  Communes  admi- 
nistered by  elected  municipalities,  whose  members  were  in 
|)roportion  to  the  population. 

I  give  below  the  details  of  the  two  districts  which 
embraced  Western  Liguria. 

District  of  the  Boya. — Chief  town  :  Ventimiglia.  Com- 
munes :  Peima,  Bevera,  Airole,  Camporosso,  Soldano,  San 
Biagio,  Bordighera,  Vallebuona,  Vallecrosia,  Borghetto, 
and  Sasso. 

Boundaries :  to  the  west,  the  Mentonese  territory, 
marked  by  the  Caravan  torrent  and  the  ridge  of  Gram- 
mont ;  to  the  north,  the  southern  border  of  Dolceacqua ;  to 
the  east,  the  district  of  the  Palm  Trees  (details  of  which 
will  b3  found  below),  marked  out  by  a  boundary  line  to 
westward  of  the  Lizzia  Canal.     Popuhition,  10,411. 

District  of  the  Palm  Trees  (delle  Palme). — Chief  town : 

*  It  is  a  curious  fact,  and  one  which  I  commend  to  the  attention  of  ardent 
Free  Traders,  that  one  of  the  iirst  acts  of  a  community,  large  or  small,  after 
it  ha>  gained  its  freedom,  is  to  organise  measures  for  the  protection  of  its  own 
industries  aud  prod  act  ions. — A.  C.  I>. 


154 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


San  Kemo.    Communes  :  Colla,  San  Bartolomeo,  Veresco, 

Poggio,  and  Ceriana. 

Boundaries :  to  the  west,  the  district  of  the  Eoya  (as 
above) ;  to  the  north,  Dolceacqiia  ;  to  tlie  east,  the  district 
of  Argentina.     Population,  13,133. 

But  this  division  of  the  country  had  but  a  short  duration 
80  far  as  Bordighera  was  concerned,  as  for  some  reason  or 
other,  but  of  which  we  are  unaware,  in  the  following  year, 
1798,  it  was  detached  from  the  district  of  the  Roya  and 
joined  to  the  neighbouring  one  of  the  Palm  Trees.* 

Tiie  Constitution  of  1797,  drawn  up  as  it  was  in  the 
Jacobin  spirit  which  animated  the  policy  of  Napoleon 
before  the  proclamation  of  the  Empire,  was  too  democratic 
to  suit  the  people  of  Liguria,  where  aristocratic  ideas  and 
habits  were  still  too  strongly  implanted  to  be  rooted  up  in 
so  short  a  time.  So  it  was  modi  tied  in  a  somewhat  less 
radical  form  in  1803,  and,  atk-r  this  revisiou,  remained 
in  full  vigour  until  the  end  of  1805. 

This  period  of  eight  years  did  not,  however,  pass  with- 
out some  very  stirring  events ;  but  the  only  one  which 
especially  concerns  us  is  the  occupation  of  Nice  and  Venti- 
miglia  by  the  Austrians  in  1800,  quickly  followed  by  the 
capitulation  of  Genoa,  whicli  had  been  besieged  by  the 
united  forces  of  Austria  and  England. 

General  Elznitz,  who  commanded  at  Nice,  obeying 
without  any  doubt  the  solicitations  of  the  Magnijici  party, 
published  a  proclamation,  by  which  he  declared  the  old 
order  of  things  re-established,  and  the  eight  confederated 
communes,  to  their  bitter  sorrow  and  disappointment,  once 

»  Certainly  if  there  is  "anything  in  a  name,"  Bonlighera's  right  and 
fitness  to  become  a  portion  of  the  latter  district  was  indisputable. — 
A.  C.  D. 


THE   FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 


155 


\ 


more  were  given  back  as  dependants,  to  the  tender  mercies 
of  their  old  suzerain. 

But  this  attempt  to  return  again  to  feudal  times  was 
not  destined  to  meet  with  success  or  be  of  a  permanent 
character.  The  victory  of  IMarengo  on  the  14th  of  June 
caused  the  fortune  of  war  to  turn  again  in  favour  of  France, 
and  as  an  immediate  result  led  to  the  evacuation  of 
Liguria  by  Austria. 

On  the  2nd  Floreal,  in  the  year  XII.  (20th  of  l\ray, 
1804),  Napoleon  proclaimed  tlie  First  Empire,  and  from 
that  moment  inaugurated  a  new  policy.  It  was  no  longer 
a  question  of  creating  and  protecting  friendly  republics 
on  the  borders  of  France  ;  henceforth  his  aim  was  a  very 
different  one— to  aggrandize  the  Empire  by  annexations, 
and  to  give  kings  of  his  own  choosing  to  the  neighbour- 
ing states. 

It  was  not,  however,  until  after  the  battle  of  Austerlitz 
(December  2nd)  and  the  Treaty  of  Presburg  had  been 
signed  (which  latter  event  took  place  on  the  26th 
December,  1805),  that  the  Emperor  felt  himself  suffi- 
ciently firmly  seated  on  his  throne  to  suppress  a  republic 
which  he  had  himself  created,  and  which  had  in  all  things 
proved  a  faithful  ally,  though  jealous  at  the  same  time  of 
its  own  freedom  and  individuality. 

It  was  about  the  commencement  of  the  year  1806  that 
tlie  time-honoured  Kepublic  of  Genoa,— after  a  career  only 
equalled  and  barely  excelled  by  its  sister  of  Venice,— and 
all  her  territory,  were  absorbed  into  the  new  empire,  and 
now,  alas  !  appeared  in  the  new  scheme  of  Europe  as  but  a 
group  of  French  departments.  Below  I  give  the  desig- 
nations of  the  chief  towns  and  their  districts  {arrondisse- 
ments). 


} 


THE    FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 


157 


156 


LOCAL    HISTORY. 


Apemmies,— Chief  town  :  Cbiavari.  Districts :  Pontre- 
moli,  Sarzaiia,  Spezia. 

(rewoa.— Chief  town  :  Genoa.  Districts:  Bobbio,  Novi, 
Tortona,  Voghera. 

MontenoUe. — Chief  town  :  Savona.  Districts  :  Acqui, 
Ceva,  Porto  Maiirizio. 

Maritime  Alps. — Chief  town :  Nice.  Districts  :  San 
Eemo,  Puget-Thc^niers. 

The  tricolor  waved  over  Ligiiria  until  the  fall  of  the 
Empire;  that  is,  for  nearly  eighteen  years,  whieli  were  for 
that  country  a  period  of  peace  if  not  of  prosperity.  Only 
one  event  of  a  warlike  character  took  place  during  this 
time,  viz.  a  bombardment  of  Bordighera,  an  account  of 
which  may  amuse  our  English  readers,  it  being  more  a 
burlesque  of  real  war  than  anything  serious ;  but  it  is 
further  interesting  also,  as  it  is  the  last  occasion  when 
shots  have  been  fired  with  hostile  intentions  on  these 
coasts.* 

On  the  14th  of  July,  1811,  an  English  cruiser,  whilst 
sailing  along  the  coast,  was  becalmed  off  Bordighera,  not 
more  than  a  few  cable-lengths  from  the  shore,  and  speedily 
found  itself  a  target  for  the  five  little  batteries,  each 
armed  with  one  gun,  which  then  existed  upon  the  plateau 
of  St.  Ampelio. 

*  I  have  searched  carefully  through  the  Admiralty  papers  during  the  year 
mentioned  (1811),  but  can  find  no  mention  of  either  incident;  though  perhaps, 
if  it  hail  been  possible  to  find  the  names  of  the  vessels  engaged,  a  search  in 
their  log-books  might  give  us  further  information.  As  far  as  one  can  judge 
from  Signor  Palanca's  brief  account,  the  English  vessel  (most  probably  a  small 
cruiser  or  vessel  with  despatches  from  'Jfima,  working  up  to  Lord  Exmouth, 
the  commander-in-chief,  otf  Hy&res)  was  becahneil,  and  must  have  drifted 
stern  on  to  within  gunshot  of  the  batteries.  Mr.  Hamilton  suggests,  "  be- 
calmed, no  doubt,  westward  of  the  cape  ;  when  the  current,  which  sets  to  the 
east,  would  carry  her  to  the  cape  and  very  near  the  shore  ;  but  the  current 


It  was,  of  course,  an  act  of  impudent  bravado  on  the 
part  of  the  artillerymen  and  the  officer  in  charge ;  but  the 
gunners  served  their  pieces  so  well  and  aimed  so  truly, 
that  they  succeeded  in  smashing  in  the  cabin  windows, 
and  doing  considerable  damage  to  the  stern  of  the  vessel ; 
so  much  so,  indeed,  that  instead  of  replying  and  prom^^tly 
silencing  them,  the  captain  was  compelled  to  lower  his 
boats  and  tow  his  ship  out  of  range.  Great  rejoicings,  as 
may  be  imagined,  took  place  ashore,  the  gunners  boasting 
of  their  easy  victory,  and  all  imagined  they  had  heard 
the  last  of  it ;  but  a  few  days  afterwards  they  learnt  they 
had  counted  without  their  host ;  for  a  ship  of  the  line  and 
two  frigates,  under  English  colours,  entrusted  with  the 
task  of  bringing  tlie  belligerent  little  village  to  her 
senses,  appeared  in  the  offing,  brought  up  broadside  to 
the  cape,  and  opened  a  sustained  fire  upon  the  town.  The 
windows  rattled  in  their  casements,  and  the  chimney-pots, 
appropriately  enough,  toppled  down  upon  the  little  gar- 
rison, but  no  one  was  either  killed  or  wounded,  and  the 
inhabitants,  only  too  anxious  to   bring   such  a  state  of 

disperses  itself  when  once  it  has  doubled  the  cape  and  gets  into  the  expanse  of 
water  formed  by  the  opening  of  the  Bay  of  La  Ruota " ;  hence  the  vessel 
became  stationary,  and,  as  she  was  lying  in  the  position  above  mentioned,  was 
unable  to  get  any  of  her  guns  to  bear  upon  the  battery  which  wms  attacking 
her.  Naturally,  the  captain  did  the  best  for  his  vessel,  under  the  circum- 
stances: he  lowered  his  boats  and  towed  out  of  range.  And  the  return  of  a 
small  squadron,  five  days  afterwards  (the  date  given  is  the  19th  of  the  same 
month),  would  just  allow  time  for  the  injured  vessel  to  work  up  to  Hyeres  or 
Toulon,  communicate  with  the  Admiral,  and  for  the  return  of  the  powerful 
vessels  to  demand  redress  for  the  insult.  It  may  perhaps  be  of  interest  to 
note  here  that  I  find  from  a  despatch  of  the  English  Admiral,  dated  the 
15th  July,  1811,  that  on  that  day  the  "in-shore  squadron,"  cruising  off  Cape 
Sicie  (which  is  near  Antibes),  consisted  of  two  line-of-battle  ships  and  two 
frigates :  the  Conqueror  and  Rodney^  and  the  Franchise  and  Apollo.  Might 
it  not  then  have  been  the  two  latter  and  one  of  the  former  which  appeared  off 
Bordighera  on  the  19th  ? — A.  C.  D. 


158 


LOCAL   HISTOKY. 


things  to  a  conclusion,  hastened  to  surrender ;  the  mayor, 
most  probably  the  bearer  of  the  message,  being  invited 
to  dinner  on  board  tlie  Englisli  flagship  !  * 

But  if  this  period  of  their  union  with  France  was  not 
characterised  by  any  remarkable  event,  an  imperishable 
memento  of  it  is  left  behind  in  the  wonderful  Cornice 
Koad.     This  magnificent  highway,  laid  out,  however,  more 
from  a  strategic  point  of  view  than  one  of  practical  utility, 
has  always  been  the  delight  and  called  forth  the  enthu- 
siasm  of  all  travellers  who  pass  over  it ;  as  owing  to  the 
fact,  which  has  just  been  stated,  of  its  having  been  de- 
signed by  engineer  officers  for  military  purposes,  it  winds 
around  the  projecting  heights  which  obstruct  its  passage, 
in  place  of  always  following  the  coa4-line.    It  thus  offers 
to  tlie  tourist,  for  its  whole  length  of  125  miles,  a  variety 
of  land  and  sea-scapes  and  a  series  of  exquisite  views 
which  are  probably  unequalled  in  the  whole  world.     The 
work,  on  that  portion  of  the  route  between  Nice  and  Men- 
tone  wliich  had  already  become  French  territory,  was  con- 
tracted for  about  the  year  1804,  and  the  whole  length  of 
the  road  was  laid  out  and  arranged  tor  iu  1810,  but  it  was 
not  fully  completed  until  the  year  1828. 

The  abdication  of  Xai)()hM»u  took  plan'  :»t  Funtainebleau 
on  the  13th  of  April,  1814:  the  English  immediately 
occupied  Genoa,  and  there  aiinoune^'d  that  the  lu'[)ublie 
which  had  existed  for  so  many  centnrl«  s  was  to  be  restored. 
This  news  was  welcomed  witli  denionstratioiis  of  joy  along 
the  whole  of  the  Ligurian  coast ;  and  knowing  the  national 
pride  of  the"  Genoese,  any  other  feeling  would  have  been 
impossible. 


/■",  a  imrra- 


•   Uwi.  GcnerosUtt 
tive  by  the  late  Signor  S.  Pakmca,  published  m  the  Via  Anreiia  in  June  1876 


THE   FRENCH   OCCUPATION. 


159 


The  Republican  constitution  of  1797  had  been  drawn 
lip  for  them  at  the  camp  of  Montebello:  the  annexation 
to  France  was  a  high-handed  act  of  the  strong  towards  the 
weak :  both  one  and  the  other  were  a  form  of  government 
forced  upon  them,  and  wliich  they  detested.  Under  such 
conditions,  then,  and  in  spite  of  a  taste  for  liberty  and 
democracy  which  had  begun  to  spread,  a  people  so  proud 
and  independent  as  the  Genoese  could  not  fail  to  hail 
with  delight  the  prospect  of  a  return  to  the  glorious 
autonomy  of  the  past. 

But  unfortunately  for  their  aspirations,  the  Treaty  of 
Paris  decided  otherwise.  Liguria  was  to  be  incorporated 
into  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia  under  the  sceptre  of  Victor 
Emmanuel  L,  who  was  recalled  from  Gagliari,  where  the 
conquests  of  Napoleon  had  exiled  him,  to  be  placed  at 
the  head  of  a  secondary  sub- Alpine  power  intended  to 
act  as  a  barrier,  on  the  road  to  Austria,  against  the  French 
armies  of  the  future. 

Little  did  those  think  who  arrang.  d  and  concurred 
in  this  transformation— which,  intended  to  maintain  the 
European  equilibrium,  gave  the  finishing  stroke  to  the 
life  of  an  ancient  and  historic  Republic — that  they  had 
throvNU  down  at  the  foot  of  the  Alps,  the  germ  of  a  future 
Italy,  united,  powerful,  and  free ! 


(     160    ) 


LIGURIA   IN   THE   PRESENT   DAY. 


161 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

LIGURIA   IN   THE   PRESENT   DAY. 

The  Restoration  of  1814— riiases  (.f  the  Italian  Revoliitinn  up  to 
the  year  1848— The  Sardiiiiaii  Ci)iistinit:..n-Fro€lamatioM  of  the 
Kingilom  of  Italy  io  18CI— AiiMexation  .-1  Kuv.  \o  France— Journeys 
of  Sovereigns  thnxiili  Li'^uria— Earthquakes  in  1831— Oi>ening  <»f 
tlie  Cornice  Roail— UesuliUious  as  tn  the  "  suuly  lauils." 

Victor  Emmanuel  I  was  fifty-four  years  of  age  when 

the  Treaty  of  Paris,  in  1814,  callid  him  baclv  again  to 

Piedmont.      He    had    succeeded    his    brotlier,    Charles 

Emmanuel  IV.,  on  his   abdication  at   Cagliari  in  1802, 

and  was  a  prince  of  a  gentle  and  benevolent  character, 

but  without  energy  and  with  very  mediocre  abilities ;  but 

nothing  was  dearer  to  his  heart  than  to  re-establish  the 

old  order  of  affairs  from  one  end  of  Ids  kingdom  to  the 

other.     The  old  Piedmontese  nobility,  who,  during  "  the 

usurpation  of  the  demagogue  Napoleon,"  had  retired  to 

solitude  in  their  chateaux,  drifted  back  again  to  the  court 

at  Turin,  and  threw  all  the  weight  of  tlieir  coronets  and 

all  the  influence  of  their  traditions  into  the  organisation 

of  the  new  kingdom. 

The  Code  Napoleon  was  suppressed  with  all  the  liberties 
which  it  had  established,  the  privileges  of  the  nobles 
were  restored,  the  clergy  were  favoured  by  the  re-estab- 
lishment of  monasteries  and  tlie  recall  of  the  Jesuits. 

This  return  to  an  absolutism  from  which  all  popular 
representation,  all  participation  of  the  nation  in  its 
government  was  banished,  and  where  tlie  State  and  its 


officers  were  all-powerful,  did  not,  however,  press  so 
hardly  upon  Piedmont,  Savoy,  and  the  *'  County "  of 
Nice.  They  had  been  accustomed  to  all  this  before.  But 
it  was  far  different  with  the  Genoese,  and  they,  who 
looked  with  pride  upon  their  ancient  Republic,  could  not 
without  the  keenest  sorrow  see  themselves  deprived  at 
the  same  time  of  their  liberties  and  their  national  inde- 
pendence. 

However,  the  Sardinian  Government  showed  itself 
enlightened  even  in  its  despotism,  which  consisted  mainly 
in  ruling  with  a  strong  rather  than  a  cruel  hand.  Besides, 
too,  the  idea  of  a  united  Italy  was  not  slow  in  springing 
up,  and  neutralised,  by  absorbing  them,  all  the  aspirations 
towards  the  various  separate  autonomies  of  past  centuries. 

But  the  stream  of  history  has  now  tided  us  down  nearly 
to  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century,  and  to  events 
which  the  present  generation  has  witnessed.  To  recount 
these  events  in  detail,  would  be  equivalent  to  writing 
a  history  of  the  political  Renaissance  of  Italy,  and  this 
would  lead  me  far  beyond  the  scope  of  these  pages,  which 
are  but  an  historical  resume  intended  only  to  give  the  reader 
some  idea  of  the  past  of  the  country.  I  will  confine  my- 
self therefore  to  recall  as  briefly  and  clearly  as  possible  the 
various  phases  of  this  magnificent  evolution. 

Carlo  Felice,  the  third  of  the  sons  of  Victor  Amadous 
who  reigned  at  Turin,  succeeded  to  the  throne  of  Sardinia 
upon  the  abdication  of  his  brother  Victor  Emmanuel  I. 
in  1821 ;  he  died  in  1831,  leaving  the  crown  to  his  cousin 
Charles  Albert.  The  period  from  1821  to  1831  was  indeed 
a  time  of  marvellous  advance  in  the  progress  towards  the 
great  goal,  that  of  delivering  Italy  from  her  tyrants  and 
making  her  an  independent  nation.     The  idea  of  unity 

M 


162 


LOCAL   UISTOUY. 


LIGURIA  IN   THE  PRESENT   DAT. 


163 


spread  and  increased  visibly;  but,  amongst  all  the  kings, 
princes,  and  dukes  which  shared  the  Peninsula,  Charles 
llbert  alone  had  the  sense  to  see  that  the  only  way 
of  saving  his  throne  was  to  place  himself,  frankly  and 
without  any  selfish  designs,  at  the  head  of  the  movement 
which,  it  was  becoming  evident,  had  seized  the  whole  ot 
Italy  in  its  fascinating  toils. 

The  election  of  Pius  IX.  in  1846,  and  the  libera 
inclinations  he  showed  the  following  year,  the  excitement 
provoked  in  Naples  by  the  tyranny  of  Ferdinand  IL.  the 
cruelties  of  Austria  in  Lombardy,  and  the  pressure  which 
she  exercised  on  the  little  States,  her  vassals,  and  above 
all  the  open  hostility  this  Power  displayed  towards  the 
sub-Alpine  kingdom,  finally  decided  the  Sardinian  Govern- 
ment to  throw  itself  heart  and  soul  into  the   national 

''X "  February   1848,  Naples  obtained   the   shadow   of 
parliamenUxvy  representation  and  freedom  of  the  press. 
This  precipitated  events  at  Turin,  for  a  Government  ali^ady 
80  enliMitened  and  advanced  as  that  of  the  Sardinian 
States  could   no  longer  remain  passive  when  even  the 
Bourbons  had  set  an  example.    Shortly  afterwards  the 
agitation  at  Turin  and  Genoa  began  to  assume  a  serious 
aspect,  upon  which  was  issued  that  famous  proclamation, 
as  digmfied  as  it  was  brief :  "  Citizens !  Order  and  modera- 
tion :  the  King  has  promised  that  he  will  satisfy  h,s  people ! 
And  right  nobly  the  King  kept  his  word ;  for  almost 
immediately  Carlo  Alberto  granted  a  constitution  to  his 
subjects,  assuring  by  this  memorable  act  the  crown   of 
Italy  to  his  successors,  at  the  very  same  time  that  another 
sovereign,  who  had  listened  to  less  enlightened  counsel 
and  followed    a  totally   different   policy,  was  hurriedly 


kl 


flying  from  tlie  throne  of  St.  Louis  and  treading  tlie  exile's 
path,  never  to  return.  By  a  singular  coincidence,  the 
news  of  the  Revolution  of  Paris  on  the  24th  of  February, 
184>^,  was  received  in  Italy  whilst  the  Piedmontese  were 
giving  themselves  up  to  orderly  but  intense  demonstra- 
tions of  joy  at  the  proclamation  of  a  constitution ;  the 
fact  being  known  precisely  at  the  moment  most  favour- 
able for  giving  a  fresh  elan  to  the  national  part  and  en- 
couraging it  to  go  steadily  forward. 

We  all  of  us  know  the  vicissitudes  of  1848-49  which 
ended  in  the  abdication  of  Carlo  Alberto,  and  accession  to 
the  throne  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II. 

As  soon  as  the  Sardinian  States  became  in  the  truest 
and  fullest  sense  of  the  word  a  free  and  constitutional 
kingdom,  they  adopted  as  a  national  flag  the  Italian  tri- 
colour, composed  of  the  colours  of  the  town  of  Bologna, 
which  the  patriots  of  that  city  had  used  in  the  revolu- 
tion of  1831,  united  with  green,  the  emblem  of  hope. 
Tliis  latter  symbolising,  as  significantly  as  silently,  the 
desire  of  uniting  the  entire  Peninsula  under  the  sceptre  of 
the  House  of  Savoy;  the  fulfilment  of  which  by  every 
means  in  their  power  became  henceforth  the  chief  object 
of  the  statesmen  of  the  sub-Alpine  kingdom. 

But  this  faith  in  a  great  idea  and  this  devotion  to  a 
glorious  cause,  which  are  personified  in  the  name  of  Victor 
Emmanuel  and  in  those  of  the  two  great  historic  figures 
of  Garibaldi  and  Cavour,*  were  not  to  receive  their  recom- 
pense until  1860,  or  their  complete  and  final  crown  for  ten 
years  later,  until  that  memorable  afternoon  in  September, 

*  To  those  readers  who  would  care  to  learn  something  of  the  real  character 
and  inner  life  of  this  wonderful  man,  Christian,  patriot,  and  statesman,  let 
me  strongly  recommend  them  to  get  his  life,  by  M.  Mazade ;  of  which  there 
is  now  an  English  edition  published. — A.  C.  D. 

M    2 


164 


LOCAL   HISTOKY. 


LIGURIA   IN   THE   PRESENT    DAY. 


165 


1870,  wlien  tlie  troops  of  a  once  more  united  Italy  entered 

tlie  ffates  of  Rome.  , 

The  kingdom  of  Italy  was  formally  proclaimed  on  he 
15th  of  March,  1861 ;  but  this  wonderful  result  of  the 
Sardinian  policy  was  not  attained  -thout  sacnfice. 
The  support  given  by  France  to  Piedmont  m  the  war  of 
1859,  and  the  acquiescence  of  the  former  Power  in  the 
annexations  of  the  other  Italian  States,  was  not  entirdy 
or  by  any  means  of  an  unselfish  character,  and  had  to  be 
paid  for  by  the  renaissant  Italy  not  only  surrendering 
the  cradle-land  of  the  Savoy  dynasty,  but  also  the 
"County"  of  Nice,  which  had  belonged  to  that  ancient 
house  for  four  centuries  and  a  half. 

This  double  surrender,    demanded    by  the  Imperial 
Government  as  necessary  to  France  as  a  strategic  rectifa- 
cation  of  frontier  "  in  view  of  the  imminent  transformation 
of  Italy  into  a  Power  of  the  first  order,"  was  consented  to 
;'  Cavour,  in  a  despatch  dated  2nd  March,  1860  with  the 
reservation,  however,  that   the    inhabitants    themselves 
should  decide  by  a  pUUscite.    To  make  the  affair  more 
complicated,  the  Parisian  jouruals,  when  it  was  announced 
that  "the  department  of  the  Maritime  Alps     was  to  be 
restored  to  France,  believed  or  pretended  to  beheve  that 
it  was  to  be  the  same  as  under  the  First  Empire-that 
is  to  say,  including  the  district  of  San  Eemo,  which 
extended  as  far  as  the  Torrent  of  Argentina-and  dilated 
eloquently  on  the  number  of  square  miles  of  new  territory 
and  the  increase   of  population  whicli  would  be  added 
to  the  Empire.    The  inhabitants  were  greatly  excited  by 
these  paragraphs,  and  the  deputies  of  San  Eemo  protested 
most  energetically  against  the  suggestion  in  the  parliament 

at  Turin. 


I 


But  the  project  was  never  seriously  entertained  by 
Napoleon  III.  The  Cabinet  of  the  Tuileries  knew  well 
enough,  whatever  the  daily  papers  might  say  on  the 
subject,  that  the  country  to  the  eastward  of  the  torrent 
of  Garavan— which  formed  the  old  limit  of  the  Princi- 
pality of  Monaco — was  essentially  Genoese,  no  less  in  its 
history  and  language  than  in  the  habits  and  customs  of  its 
inhabitants ;  and  was  therefore  naturally  anxious  to  shield 
itself  from  the  reproach  of  diminishing  with  one  hand 
the  territory  of  a  nation  which  it  had  reconstructed  with 
the  other,  at  the  cost  of  such  great  sacrifices. 

The  plebiscite  of  the  "  County"  of  Nice,  which  gave  an 
enormous  majority  in  favour  of  annexation  to  France, 
took  place  in  the  month  of  April,  but  the  Government  of 
that  country  did  not  take  possession  until  the  12th  of 
June  following.  This  annexation  having  taken  away  the 
chief  town  of  the  province  of  which  San  Eemo  was  a 
sous  lyrefedure,  this  enterprising  little  town — which  had 
already  aspired  to  take  its  place  amongst  the  wintering 
places  of  the  Eiviera,  hoped  that  the  mantle  of  the 
"  Prefecture'*  might  fall  upon  its  shoulders,  and  its  deputies 
made  great  efforts  to  bring  this  to  pass.  But  the  Sardinian 
Government  decided  otherwise,  and  the  position  of  chief 
town  was  transferred  to  Porto  Maurizio  which  shared  the 
advantages  with  its  neighbour  Oneglia. 

During  the  period  of  nearly  three-quarters  of  a  century 
which  has  elapsed  since  Liguria  has  been  definitely  united 
to  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia,  the  history  of  the  canton  of 
Bordighera  docs  not  offer  any  remarkable  event  for  our 
notice.  But  I  must  not  omit  to  mention  one  at  least 
which  gave  great  delight  to  the  faithful  laity  of  the  town, 
and  that  was  nothing  less  than  the  passing  through  it  of 


LOCAL  HI8T0BY. 


Pope  Pius  VII.  on  his  return  from  Paris.  He  rested  at 
Bordighera,  most  probably  journeying,  like  many  before 
him,  on  mule  back,  and  after  a  Pontifical  Mass  in  the 
parish  church,  gave  his  solemn  benediction  to  the  town. 
All  the  Sardinian  sovereigns  also  have  passed  along  our 
coast  either  going  to  or  returning  from  Nice ;  Carlo  Felice 
in  1826,  Carlo  Alberto  in  1836,  Victor  Emmanuel  in 
January  1857,  and  his  two  sons  Humbert  and  Amadous 
also,  who  made  a  stay  of  some  days  in  the  town  in 
September  of  the  same  year. 

But  the  most  important  event  of  tlie  period  was  un- 
doubtedly the  opening  of  the  carriage-road,  better  known 
to  us  now  as  the  "  Cornice  Koad,"  which  took  place,  so  far  as 
Bordighera  was  concerned,  in  the  year  1823.     From  this 
moment  the  inhabitants  of  the  i»lace,  like  all  those  who 
were  similarly  situated,  began  to   feel  the  necessity  of 
building  a  new  town  at  the  foot  of  the  hill.     The  old 
villages  perched  on  the  heiglits,  surround*  <1  by  lofty  walls, 
and  which  it  was  only  possible  to  enter  by  passing  through 
narrow  gateways,  were  no  longer  adapted  either  to  the 
wants  or  habits  of  modern  days.     Life,  for  the  future, 
both  of  business  and  pleasure,  would  pass  along  this  great 
highway,  whether  the  traveller  choose  the  diligence,  the 
vetturino,  or  the  waggon.    It  was  necessary,  therefore,  to 

come  down  to  it. 

At  this  period  the  demolition  of  the  batteries  upon  the 
Cape— which  gave  so  warm  a  reception  to  the  English 
cruiser  (referred  to  at  page  156)— took  place,  and  the  guns 
were  removed ;  a  mule  path  being  opened,  which  connected 
the  old  town  with  the  Cornice  near  St.  Ampelio's  Chapel.* 

♦  This  road  was  replaced  in  1867  by  the  carriage-road  up  the  Cape  which 
traverses  tb«  Orti  Sottani. 


LIGURIA   IN  THE  PRESENT   DAY. 


167 


\ 


From  this  time  houses  began  quickly  to  arise  all  along 
the  shore,  forming  the  commencement  of  the  Borgo 
Marina,  the  Bordighera  of  the  future. 

And  after  a  time  this  movement  shorewards  (or  sea- 
wards rather)  was,  as  it  were,  officially  brought  before 
the  notice  of  the  Municipal  administration.  The  new 
road  had  been  traced  as  close  to  the  beach  as  was  possible ; 
but  the  continuous  retirement  of  the  sea,  before  long,  left 
a  considerable  slip  of  land  upon  the  further  side  of  it, 
which  though  at  first  mere  worthless  beach,  by  a  certain 
amount  of  labour  and  the  addition  of  a  top  soil  could  be^ 
made  suitable  for  cultivation.  This  reclaimed  land,  in 
the  first  instance,  however,  did  not  by  right  belong  to 
any  one ;  it  had  originally  been  covered  by  the  sea  and 
only  had  become  dry  land  owing  to  the  former's  retire- 
ment ;  but  the  owners  of  land  bordering  the  road  seized 
the  newly  formed  beach,  enclosed  it,  and  placed  it  under 

cultivation. 

But  the  Municipality  treated  this  arbitrary  seizure  as 
an  illegal  act,  and  declared  the  land  in  question  "  Com- 
munal property,"  though  they  accorded  the  above-men- 
tioned landowners  the  right  of  cultivation,  subject  to  an 
annual  rent;  agreeing  further,  that  if  any  one  built  a 
house,  the  ground  in  front  of  the  building,  as  far  as  the 
shore,  became  ij^so  facto  the  property  of  the  occupier  or 
possessor ;  whilst  with  regard  to  those  portions  of  the 
reclaimed  lands  (known  as  terreni  arenili  *)  which  had  not 
been  built  upon,  the  Municipal  Council  reserved  to  them- 
selves the  right  at  any  time  of  taking  possession  of  them, 
if  they  were  ever  demanded  as  *•'  building  sites  "  by  other 
inhabitants   of  the  town.     The   Council  also  laid   down 

♦  Literally,  sandu  lands. 


168 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


a  stringent  rule  that  at  tlie  distance  of  every  50  metres 
(160  feet)  there  was  to  be  a  passage  twenty-five  feet  broad, 
in  order  to  give  free  communication  from  the  road  to  the 

shore. 

The  meeting  of  the  Communal  Council,  at  which  these 
resolutions  were  passed,  took  pkce  on  April  6th,  1827; 
but  up  to  the  present  time  (July  1882)  the  most  essential 
points  have  never  been  carried  out ! 

The  Commune  has  received  and  still  receives  the  rents, 
which  now  furnish  a  revenue  of  about  20Z.  a  year,  but  by 
a  weakness  the  evil  consequences  of  which  are  only  too 
evident  to-day,  they  have  omitted  to  enforce  that  stipula- 
tion which  insists  on  the  reservation  of  passages  giving 
access  to  the  sea ;  and  further  than  this,  have  allowed 
sales  of  those  armiU  lands  which  are  still  unbuilt  upon — 
a  stiite  of  things  perfectly  illegal,  it  is  true,  but  which  has 
been  sufficient  to  establish  rights  of  property,  difficult  to 
deal  with  at  the  present  time. 

If  in  1827  the  Commune,  looking  forward  somewhat  to 
the  future,  had  reserved  absolutely  and  without  conditions 
the  land  which  the  sea  was  gradually  giving  up  to  them — 
as  if  with  reference  to  the  ultimate  development  of  the 
town — instead  of  sacrificing  it  to  private  speculation  by  a 
fantastical  resolution  impossible  to  enforce,  it  would  be 
unnecessary  now  to  have  recourse  to  taxation  and  loans 
to  defray  the  expenses  of  public  improvements,  for  the 
Municipality  would  be  the  owners  of  property  worth  more 
than  a  million  of  francs ! 


1 


(     169     ) 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


LEGISLATIVE   UNIFICATION. 


Necessity  for  unification— Old  Italian  codes— Preparation  and  pro- 
mulgation of  the  Civil  Code  in  1865— Other  Codes  and  laws- 
Principal  characteristics  of  the  Penal  Code,  the  Constitution,  and  the 
Civil  Code. 

When  the  Kingdom  of  Italy  was  proclaimed  in  1861,  the 
administration  of  justice  varied  in  each  State  which  com- 
posed it,  and  those  who  took  the  reins  of  power  found  a 
number  of  conflicting  codes  on  every  side  of  them. 

The  various  peoples,  united  under  the  Constitutional 
Monarchy  of  Victor  Emmanuel  by  the  iMUscites  of  1859 
and  1860,  had  nothing  in  common  but  the  Sardinian 
Constitution  {Lo  Statiito)  which  had  force  amongst  them 
owing  to  the  fact  of  the  annexation.  Five  civil  codes,  all 
more  or  less  imitations  of  the  Code  iVapoZeow— which  the 
first  Empire  had  brought  to  Italy,  and  which,  having  lapsed 
with  the  fall  of  the  Emperor,  had  ever  since  been  uni- 
versally regretted— contended  for  precedence  in  the  old 
States  which  had  now  become  parts  of  the  New  Kingdom. 

The  Lombardo- Venetian  provinces  used  the  Austrian 
code  of  1815  ;  the  Southern  Provinces  and  Sicily,  a  code 
specially  drawn  up  by  the  Government  of  Ferdinand  I.  in 
1819 ;  the  Duchies  of  Parma  and  Modena  possessed  their 
own  codes  of  1820  and  1851,  and  the  code  which  was 
known  as  the  "  Albertine "  of  the  Sardinian  States  had 
been  extended  to  the  Eomagna,  the  Marches,  and  Umbria. 
Tuscany  alone  was  still  governed  by  common  law,  modified, 
however,  on  many  points  by  special  enactments. 


170 


LOCAL  HISTOBY. 


Folly  cognisant  of  the  grave  inconveniences  which 
must  necessarily  result  from  the  simultaneous  existence 
of  so  many  discordant  and  contradictory  codes,  the 
ministries  wliich  Mlowed  each  other  from  1861  to  1865 
made  continual  efforts  to  bring  about  a  more  har- 
monious state  of  things.  But  this  was  far  from  easy. 
Each  province  naturally  desired  its  own  code  to  be  made 
the  basis  of  tlie  new  one,  and  an  assembly  composed 
almost  exclusively  of  advocates,  each  prepared  to  support 
the  legislative  system  of  his  own  country,  was  not  nearly 
homogeneous  enough  in  its  composition,  to  undertake  the 
details  of  the  codification  of  a  civil  law,  as  elaborate  as 
it  was  comprehensive. 

To  proceed  in  a  strictly  constitutional  manner  under 
these  circumstances,  was  impracticable  ;  the  assembly 
would  have  been  engaged  in  an  endless  discussion,  beside 
which  our  debates  on  Irish  land  bills  would  appear  mere 
child's  play,  and  which  would  have  deferred  to  the  Greek 
kalends  the  realisation  of  a  National  Code.  Under  these 
circumstances  the  Government  took  the  wise  and  judicious 
course  of  appointing  what  we  should  call  a  "  Royal  Com- 
mission," composed  of  the  first  magistrates  and  jurists  of 
the  country,  witli  power  to  draw  up  a  scheme  of  codifica- 
tion to  be  placed  before  tlie  Assembly,  and  upon  which  the 
members  might  vote,  without  discussing  the  articles. 

Commission  after  commission,  nominated  by  the  diff taent 
ministries,  succeeded  each  other,  and  the  task  dragged  on 
from  year  to  year,  wlien  tlie  transfer  of  the  seat  of 
Government  to  Florence,  to  the  only  province  whicli  was 
still  without  a  code  of  any  kind,  rendered  an  immediate 
solution  of  the  question  necessary. 

The  civil  code  which  now  exists  was  presented  to  the 


LEGISLATIVE   UNIFICATION. 


171 


Chambers  on  the  24th  November,  1864,  and  was  formally 
adopted  in  the  following  spring,  complete,  and  without 
discussion.  The  decree  promulgating  it  appeared  on  the 
25th  June,  1865,  and  announced  that  it  would  come  into 
operation  on  the  1st  January  of  the  following  year. 

This  important  measure  was  complemented  shortly  after 
by  the  promulgation  of  a  code  of  Civil  Procedure  (Codice 
cli  Procedura  Civile)  by  a  Commercial  Code,  and  by  six 
acts  for  promoting  harmony  of  administration,  called 
Leggi  organiche,  and  which  we  may  roughly  translate  as 
acts  for:  (1)  the  administration  of  Communes  and  Pro- 
vinces; (2)  for  Public  Safety;  (3)  for  Public  Health; 
(4)  for  the  Organisation  of  a  Council  of  State  ;  (5)  for  a 
Court  of  Arbitration  between  Administrations;   (6)  for 

Public  Works. 

The  Penal  Code,  however,  is  still  under  discussion,  but 
pending  its  publication,  that  of  the  kingdom  of  Sardinia 
has  been  extended  to  the  whole  of  Italy.  The  chief 
feature  which  distinguishes  the  scheme  in  preparation  is 
the  abolition  of  the  penalty  of  death,  save  for  regicide 

and  parricide. 

The  ''Statute''  or  Constitution  promulgated  by  Carlo 
Alberto  on  the  4th  of  September,  1848,  in  the  old  Sardi- 
nian States,  was  extended  to  the  other  provinces  of  Italy, 
as  from  time  to  time  they  came  under  the  rule  of  the 
House  of  Savoy.  Below  we  give  some  of  its  more  im- 
portant provisions : 

"  The  Govermnenf. 

"  The  Government  of  Italy  is  a  representative,  or,  as  we  should  say, 
"  a  constitutional  monarchy  f  the  crown  is  hereditary  in  the  male  line. 

(Article  2.) 

"  Legislativt  i^ower  rests  with  the  Crown  and  the  two  Chambers. 


172 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


(I ' 


'  The  Executive  power  belongs  to  the  King  alone,  who  declares  war, 
is  Commander-in-Chief  of  both  Army  and  Navy,  and  concludes  peace ; 
nevertheless,  all  treaties,  «&c.,  which  involve  exiienditure  by  the  State 
must  first  be  submitted  to  the  two  houses.    (Article  5.) 

"  Parliameni, 

"  Parliament  consists  of  an  Upper  House,  composed  of  Senators, 
nominated  by  the  King,  without  limitation  as  to  numbers,  but  they 
must  be  chosen  from  certain  classes  of  citizens,  such  jis  arclibishops 
and  bishops,  ambassadors,  ministers,  and  ex-mirii.^ters,  general  officers, 
permanent  officials  of  superior  rank  (answerin^r  to  our  Permanent  Secre- 
taries), who  have  served  a  certain  term  of  years  in  the  public  service, 
landowners  and  manufacturers  who  pay  more  than  3000  francs  (120/.) 
a-year  in  taxes,  and  others.     (Article  33.) 

"The  Elective  Chamber  is  composed  of  Deputies,  elected  in  con- 
formity with  the  electoral  law.    (Article  39.) 

"Deputies  are  elected  for  five  years,  but  no  on'>  can  offer  himself  for 
election  who  is  under  thirty  years  of  age.     (Article  40.) 

"The  Chamber  has  a  right  of  impeaching  the  Ministry  and  arraign- 
ing them  before  the  Senate,  constituted  as  a  High  Court  of  Justice. 

(Articles  36  and  37.) 
•*A11   'money  bills'  must  be  presented  first  to  the  Chamber  of 

Deputies.     (Article  30.) 

"  Neither  Senators  nor  Deputies  receive  any  salary.     (Article  49.) 
"  The  sittings  of  both  Chambers  are  public,  unless  ten  members 

demand  that  they  shall  be  held  with  closed  doors.    (Article  52.) 

"  The  Miriistry, 

"  Ministers  may  not  vote  in  eitlier  House,  unless  they  be  Senators  or 
Deputies,  but  they  have  the  right  of  entering  and  speaking  in  both 
Chambers.    (Article  66.) 

"  Ministers  are  responsible  for  their  acts.    (Article  6G.) 

"  The  Courts  of  Justice, 

**  The  Judges  are  nominated  by  the  King,  except  those  of  the  cantons 
(Mandamenti).  Their  appointment  becomes  a  |XTmanent  one  after  the 
lapse  of  three  years.    (Article  69.) 

"  All  courts,  other  than  those  established  by  statute,  are  forbidden. 

(Article  71.) 


LEGISLATIVE   UNIFICATION. 


"  The  State  Church. 


173 


«  The  Roman  Catholic  faith  is  the  religion  of  the  State  ;  but  all  other 
creeds  are  tolerated  according  to  the  laws  in  force.     (Article  1.) 

"  Citizenship, 

«  All  Citizens  are  equal  in  the  eyes  of  the  law.     (Article  24.) 
"The  liberty  of  the  individual  is  guaranteed;  neither  can  any  one 
be  arrested  or  brought  up  for  sentence  otherwise  than  is  provided  by 

law.     (Article  26.)  ^     t^  ^' 

"The  House  of  a  Citizen  is  sacred;  any  entrance  by  the  lolice  is 

forbidden,  unless  in  those  cases  specified  by  the  law.     (Article  27.) 
"  The  right  of  holding  public  meetings  is  recognised,  subject,  however, 

to  regulations  of  the  Police,  referring  to  gatherings  of  that  character. 

"  The  Press. 

"  The  Press  is  free,  but  the  law  represses  all  abuse  of  this  privilege ; 
but  the  printing  of  Bibles,  catechisms,  prayer-books,  or  liturgies  is  for- 
bidden, without  permission  from  the  Bishop  of  the  Diocese."  (Article  28.) 

One  cannot  fail  to  be  struck,  on  glancing  through  the 
Sardinian  statute  which  forms  the  basis  of  Italian  liberty, 
with  the  hesitation  and  reserve  which  marks  each  article. 
It  is,  indeed,  impossible  not  to  notice  in  the  many  reser- 
vations and  exceptions  the  cautious  hand  of  a  sovereign, 
compelled  by  the  pressure  of  events  to  make  concessions 
to  his  people,  but  who,  though  not  doing  so  unwillingly, 
is  yet  too  much  influenced  by  the  time-honoured  traditions 
of  an  absolute  and  autocratic  Government,  not  to  feel  that 
he  is  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice,  and  embarking  on  an 
enterprise  fraught  with  the  gravest  perils.  Liberty  is 
given,  it  is  true ;  but  each  concession  is  followed  by  a 
reservation  as  elastic  as  it  is  dangerous,  and  which,  whilst 
granting  the  freedom  desired,  tends  to  a  certain  degree  to 
neutralise  the  gift.     One  has  the  feeling  that,  what  has 


174 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


apparently  been  given  by  one  hand  has   quietly  been 
taken  back  by  the  otlier. 

Thus :  the  Press  is  free— 5w^  ihe  law  wiM  repress  amj 

ahtise. 

The  right  of  public  meetings  is  tecogmsed—but  they 

must  he  suhjeet  to  ihe  regulations  of  the  Police ! 

The  home  of  a  citizen  is  smred—hut  it  may  he  searched 
hij  the  Police,  under  circumstances  provided  for  hj  the  law! 
But  this  charter  has  to-day  but  a  secondary  importance, 
so  far  as  the  liberties  of  the  country  are  concerned.  The 
restrictions  and  reservations  I  have  noticed  have  fallen 
into  disuse,  and  many  are  no  longer  anything  but  a  dead 
letter.  For  it  is  in  Italy  as  in  England :  liberty  and  the 
rights  of  the  individual,  deeply  rooted  in  the  hearts,  and 
part  of  the  traditions  of  the  people,  exist  much  more  there 
than  in  any  written  law  whatever. 

It  has  often  been  said  that  the  Civil  code  of  Italy  is  a 
mere  translation  of  the  Code  Napoleon,  but  I  think  it 
would  be  more  just  to  say  that  it  is  the  very  latest 
edition,  revised  and  corrected. 

Now,  no  collection  of  laws  whatever  can  have  any  pre- 
tension to  be  considered  perfect,  though  it  is  only,  indeed, 
when  we  come  to  put  them  into  force  that  we  discover 
their  various  faults  and  omissions ;  but  then  it  is  no  less 
difficult  than  dangerous  to  alter  them.  No  precedent  can 
be  created  more  perilous  to  the  welfare  and  safety  of  a 
State  than  the  modification  of  its  code. 

But  when  the  object  in  view  is  to  produce  a  code  or 
collection  of  laws  for  a  new  kingdom,  it  is  but  natural  to 
fall  back  upon  and  to  reap  the  benefit  of  the  various  ex- 
periences of  others  in  the  past,  and  so  endeavour,  not  only 
to  fill  up  the  deficiencies  which  exist,  but  to  correct  those 


LEGISLATIVE   UNIFICATION. 


175 


iiiults  which  have  been  brought  most  prominently  to  our 

notice. 

The  Italian  Codes  of  the  Restoration  of  1814,  though 
all  modelled  on  that  of  the  French,  yet  differ  from 
it  and  each  other  in  a  great  variety  of  points,  and  the 
National  Code  of  the  present  day,  which  is  practically  a 
resume  of  all,  gives  us,  if  we  compare  it  with  the  original, 
differences  still  more  marked.  But  these  divergences  are 
those  of  progress — they  are  all  steps  forward  in  the  right 
road ;  and  we  may  give  as  instances  those  of  the  liberty 
and  independence  of  the  individual,  and  the  simplification 
of  all  transactions  concerning  the  transfer  of  property  and 

contracts. 

Thus,  in  the  law  on  marriage,  the  position  of  the  woman 
is  far  more  rational  than  in  France;  since,  unless  the 
marriage  contract  stipulates  to  the  contrary,  she  can  hold 
property  independently  of  her  husband.  And  further,  on 
his  death,  she  has  the  right  of  administering  his  property, 
and  the  guardianship  of  his  children. 

Again,  the  National  Code  gives  a  much  greater  liberty 
to  the  two  sexes,  in  so  much  as  it  suppresses  the  quaint 
formalities  of  les  actes  respectueux,  which  the  Italian  legis- 
lators wisely  considered  an  old-fashioned  and  useless 
provision,  out  of  harmony  with  the  modern  principles  of 
the  equality  of  all  and  the  individual  responsibility  of 
each. 


(    176    ) 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE  DIALECT. 

Formation  of  the  ancient  dialects  of  Italy  and  the  Latin  langnage- 
Muence  of  the  Barbarian  immigrants^The  Bomance  langnage  m 
the  time  of  Charlemagne^Dialects  of  .1  and  oc--Forrnation  o  the 
Italian  languase-Comprison  with  French^Present  dialects  of 
Italy— The  modern  fcitois  of  Nice  and  Genoa. 

It  has  been  skrewdly  remarked,  that  it  is  possible  to 
deduce  the  history  of  a  people  from  their  language.  I 
propose  then  in  the  present  chapter,  having  brought  to  an 
end  this  resumi  of  the  history  of  Liguria,  to  add  a  few 
words  on  the  dialects  of  this  part  of  Italy  and  the 
adjoining  neighbourhoods. 

The  original  inhabitants,  or  aborigines,  of  Italy,  as  tar 
as  we  are  able  to  discover,  undoubtedly  spoke  a  dialect 
derived  directly  from  the  great  oriental  language  which 
served  as  a  basis  for  the  speech  of  all  European  people ; 
and  this  is  proved  by  the  great  proportion  of  Sanscrit 
words  which  we  meet  with  in  the  ancient  patois  of  the 
Italian    peninsula,    and    in  tlie    Latin    language.     The 
primitive  tongue  has  been  gradually  transformed  under 
the  influence  of  various  immigration,  and  thanks  to  the 
tendency  of  barbarous  peoples  to  modify  the  pronunciation 
of  words,  80  long  as  the  language  remains  unfixed  by  an 
unvarying  orthography : 

•'  Opera  naturale  e  ch'  uom  favella, 
ma  cosi  o  cosl,  natnra  lascia 
iwi  fare  a  voi  sccondo  che  v'  abbella 


DIALECT.  177 

e  ci(S  coTiviene, 

cho  I'nso  dei  mortal i  ecome  fronda 
in  ranio  che  son  va  ed  altra  viene." 

Paradiso,  Canto  XXVI. 

"  For  nought  that  man  inclined  to,  e'er  was  lasting 
left  by  his  reason  free  and  variable 
as  is  the  sky  that  sways  him.     That  he  speaks 
to  Nature's  prompting  :  whether  thus  or  thus, 
she  leaves  to  you,  as  ye  do  most  affect  it. 


"  And  so  beseem eth  :  for  in  mortals,  use 
is  as  the  leaf  upon  the  bough  :  that  goes 


and  others  come  instead." 


Carey's  Tmnddtion , 


In  this  manner  was  formed  a  certain  number  of  distinct 
dialects,  of  which  the  Latin  language  became  the  final 
result.  The  union  of  Italy  under  the  Roman  autho- 
rity, necessarily  gave  the  ascendency  to  the  language 
of  the  conquerors,  which  after  being  modified  and  com- 
pleted by  contact  with  the  various  subjected  races,  became 
finally  the  national  tongue. 

Latin  is  essentially  the  Oscian  dialect,  perfected  by 
civilisation  and  enriched  and  amplified  by  words  drawn 
from  all  the  varied  races  of  the  Peninsula,  as  well  as  the 
literature  of  the  Greeks. 

The  Romans  made  great  efforts  to  spread  the  Latin 
language  over  the  whole  of  Italy,  and  later  on  over  the 
whole  of  the  Empire.  But  if  it  has  not  been  possible  to 
stamp  out  the  various  patois,  even  in  this  nineteenth 
century  and  with  the  powerful  aid  of  the  Press,  we  must 
not  be  astonished  if  the  Romans,  in  spite  of  their  iron 
will  and  the  most  summary  proceedings,  were  but  partially 

N 


\ 


178 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


DIALECT. 


170 


able  to  realise  the  promise  which  Virgil  places  in  Jupiter's 
mouth  on  tlie  landing  of  iEneas : 

«  Do  quod  via,  ...  r    .•       « 

faciamqiie  omnes  uno  ore  Latinos. 

« I  do  what  you  desire    .  .  .  ^  . 

and  will  make  all  the  Latin  iieopie  spcaw  wi  JL^o 

•  '  ■  ^  JSneid,  Book  ML,  Ime  y^<>- 

Latin  thus  became  the  language  used  both  for  Bpeakb^^^ 

.  4.  fL«  nnnpr  and  educated  classes,  dui 

and  writing  amongst  the  upper  and  e 

the  various  patois  were  still  used   not  or^^ ^^^X,  Rome 
provinces,  but  in  the  heart  of  Latium  and  even  an  Eome 

"Except  in  a  more  synthetical  construction,  these  old 

dialects  differ  but  little  from  the  patois  which  are  spoken 

rtle  p  It  day  in  the  same  regions.    A  great  numbe. 

o^  v^orL  which  have  never  passed  into  the  P-  -ted  ^^^^^^ 

sovereign  language,  but  -^^\^-'^\^-'ZlZX^Z 
\.        Wn  Dointed  out  by  Latin  authors  as  belonging  lo 
thrdialects  which  besides  presented,  up  to  a  certain  point, 
he  tme  P  c^liarities  of  local  pronunciation  as  the  modern 
patois.    Thus  the  inhabitants  of  Upper  Italy  were  rema^- 
S  for  their  tendency  to  contract  words  by  ehd.ng  the 
.owels    even    before    consonants,    exactly    as    do    their 
successors  in  the  same  regions  at  the  present  day^ 

I,  the  centre  of  the  Italian  V^-^^^^l^^^^ 
tendency  was  to  confound  certain  letters ;  to  change  tor 
TatpL'the  consonants  I  and  ..  and  this  peculiarity  w.s 
L  marked  in  the  Boman  period  as  at  the  pres  nt  day 
?he  Tuscan  peasant  still  says  grobo  for  gZobo  farso  for 
fl,  arivedlla  for  a  rivedena,  &c.;   and  the  Roman 

^  ■    f^nm  which  we  jret  the  Italian  vernacolo 
♦  The  VemcB.  or  slaves,  spoke  patois,  from  which  ^e  gei 

and  the  English  ven, 


patois  also  changes  constantly  the  /  into  the  r,  as  in  the 
article  er  for  il  The  old  inhabitants  of  the  Terra  di 
Lavoro  did  exactly  the  same,  and  a  very  interesting  proof 
of  this  was  found  in  the  excavations  amongst  the  ruins  of 
Pompeii.  A  scholar  who  had  been,  without  doubt,  learning 
by  heart  from  the  dictation  of  his  master  the  beginning 
of  the  Mneicl  — whicli  was  published  just  before  the  erup- 
tion— had  written  the  first  verse  with  a  piece  of  charcoal 
on  the  wall  of  the  school,  exactly  as  I  here  reproduce  it : 

"  A/ma  viAiiTique  cano,  n7oia\  .  .  ." 

The  barbaric  invasions  of  the  fifth  and  sixth  centuries!, 
leading  as  they  did  to  the  immigrations  en  masse  of  new 
populations,  speaking  languages  of  an  absolutely  different 
character,  necessarily  had  a  radical  effect  in  modifying 
and  altering  the  dialects  of  the  south  of  Europe. 

The  Goths,  the  Huns,  the  Vandals,  and  later  on  the 
Lombards,  brought  with  them  into  Italy,  not  only  an 
enormous  number  of  new  words,  but  the  analytical  con- 
struction of  the  phrase  and  the  modern  form  of  speech : 
the  former  people  especially,  played  the  chief  part  in  this 
work  of  transformation,  and  their  influence  was  naturally 
more  marked  in  the  north  than  the  south  of  the  Penin- 
sula. The  u  of  the  Piedmontese,  and  the  oe  of  the 
Genoese,  which  are  pronounced  as  the  German  *  u  and  6, 
are  evidently  some  of  the  results  of  the  Gothic  immi- 
gration. About  the  end  of  this  period,  that  is,  the  time 
of  Charlemagne,  the  dialects  of  Northern  Italy  must 
have  assumed  nearly  their   present  form,  for   the   only 

*  This  modification  of  the  pronunciation  of  the  vowels  explains  clearly  the 
change  in  the  name  of  San  Romolo  to  San  RemOy  the  transition  from  JRoemus 
to  I\C7nus  being  perfectly  natural. 

N   2 


180 


LOCAL   mSTORT. 


influence  wliieli  they  have  liad  to  eontend  apjainst  since 
is  the  comparatively  slight  one,  of  contact  with  a  written 
tongue,  the  Italian,  and  the  invasions  of  foreigners  in  the 

middle  ages. 

The  Latin  language  straggled  long  and  valiantly 
against  the  powerful  current  of  tlie  popular  idioms,  but 
the  fight  was  an  unequal  one ;  used  by  the  masses,  and 
favoured  by  the  conquerors  from  the  north,  the  new 
languages  had  on  their  side  both  numbers  and  power, 
whilst  the  Latin  on  the  contrary  was  confined,  with  those 
who  could  read  and  write,  to  the  monasteries  and  bishops' 
palaces,  and  was  compelled  to  defend  itself,  disputing  step 
by  step  the  invasion  of  its  vulgar  rivals,  from  the  strong- 
hold of  municipal  and  imperial  acts,  of  the  liturgies  and 
religious  ceremonies  of   the   Church   of  Kome,   and   of 

literature. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  ninth  century,  the  south 
of  Europe  possessed  a  language  almost  unique  in  character, 
viz.  "  the  rustic  Latin,  or  langue  romane— Eomance ;  *'  and 
Charlemagne,  understanding  thoroughly  that  a  language 
common  throughout  the  whole  of  his  Empire  would  be 
an  enormous  step  towards  its  consolidation,  decided  to 
raise  the  dialect  of  the  masses  to  the  rank  of  an  official 
language  and  to  impose  it  upon  all  his  subjects. 

By  the  Capitulaires  of  813,  he  ordered  that  the  Gospel 
was  to  be  read  to  the  people  throughout  the  whole  of  the 
Empire, "  dans  h  roman vulgaire''  or  the  Romance  tongue, 
which  was  spoken  over  the  whole  of  Provence  and  a  great 
portion  of  France  and  Northern  Italy  * 

But  this  bastard  and  transitional  language  lasted  no 
longer  than  the  degenerate  and  ephemeral  empire  which 
upheld  it.  The  Romance  tongue  of  that  day,  variable  and 

♦  Maffei— 5*oria  della  Letteratura  Italiana. 


DIALECT. 


181 


I 


\ 


imperfect  in  its  construction,  without  rules  of  spelling  and 
differing  greatly  in  one  country  from  another,  did  not 
l)0S8ess  in  itself  tlie  qualities  necessary  for  a  great  and 
endurin^^  lan-uaoe ;  it  could  only  be  a  stepping-stone  to 
something  higher  and  more  complete. 

Below  I  give  a  si)ecimen  of  the  language  Charlemagne 
was  so  desirous  of  popularising,  extracted  from  the  oath 
taken  by  Louis  the  German  at  Strasburg  in  the  year  842, 
at  the  conclusion  of  peace  with  Charles  the  Bold.* 

«  Pro  Deo  ainur  et  pro  Xristian  poblo  et  iiostro  commun  salvament, 
dist  di  en  avaiit,  in  quant  Deus  savir  et  podir  me  dunat ;  si  salvarai 
jeo  cist  meon  fradre  Karlo  et  in  adjuda  et  in  cadliuua  cosa,  si  cum  om 
l»er  dreit  son  fradra  salvar  dist ;  in  o  quid  il  mi  altresi  fazet :  et  ab 
Ludher  nul  plaid  numquam  prindrai  qui,  meon  vol,  cist  meon  fradre 
Karlo  in  damno  sit." 

Which  may  be  translated  as  follows : 

"  By  the  luve  of  God  and  by  our  common  salvation  and  that  of  all 
Christian  people,  iuasmuch  as  God  shall  give  me  knowledge  and 
power,  so  will  I  support  my  brother  Charles,  here  present,  by  aid  and 
in  all' other  ways,  as  one  ought  to  support  his  brother,  so  long  as  he 
shall  do  the  same  for  me,  and  will  never  enter  into  any  treaty  with 
Luthaire  by  my  own  wish,  in  any  way  x)rejudicial  to  my  brother  Charles." 

During  the  centuries  immediately  following  the  reign  of 
Charlemagne,  the  Romance  language  gradually  perfected 
itself,  thanks  especially  to  the  Troubadours,  who  placed  it 
under  stringent  and  unvarying  rules,  and  fixed,  up  to  a 
certain  point,  its  orthography.  But  later  on,  in  France,  it 
split  up  into  two  distinct  forms,  which  received  respectively 
the  names  of  the  languages  of  oi  and  oc,  from  the  way  in 
which  the  adverb  oui  was  pronounced. 

The  language  of  o'i  which  was  spoken  to  the  north  of  the 
Loire,  and  which  contained  the  germ  of  modern  French, 
became    in   time   and   in    spite    of  its   poverty    and    its 

*  Barthe— //^^^-'«Vc■  dc  la  Lanjue  Frangaise. 


I 


182 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


ronghness  when  spoken,  the  langnage  of  the  whole  country, 
and  thia  especially  owing  to  the  accidental  ascendency 
given  it  by  the  unification  of  France,  under  a  government 
whose  seat  was  in  the  north ;  whilst  its  rival, although  richer, 
more  harmonious  and  classic  in  character,  was  fated  to 
linger  on  in  the  south  and  never  take  a  higher  rank  than 
a  patois.   The  following  selections  will  show  how  consider- 
able  a  difference  existed  between  the  two  languages  about 
the  twelfth  century ;  but  beyond  the  material  difference 
of  dialect,  we  must  notice  also  those  of  form  and  mode  of 
thought   in   the  two  contemporary  examples.     Tlie  first, 
harmonious   in  expression  though  somewhat   clumsy  in 
construction,  and  rich  in  images  drawn  from  nature  and  the 
surrounding  scenery,  seems  a  last  echo  of  the  old  classic 
poetry ;  whilst  tlie  second,  simple,  graceful  and  light,  is 
nothing  less  than  a  foreshadowing,  in  all  its  characteristics, 
of  the  songs  and  ballads  of  modern  days. 

In  other  words,  the  Romance  tongue  was  only  a  fading 
echo  of  the  Latin ;  its  rival  in  the  north,  already  lusty  and 
spreading,  was  soon  to  develope  into  French. 

LaiKjiUKje  o/oc,  1130. 

"  Al  chans  d^aiizels  comciiza  iiki  chaiiz", 
cant  aug  chantar  la  -lucnta  et  aiglos 
('litils  cortils  vey  vmloyar  lo  luis 
la  blava  flors  qe  par  eotr'els  boissos, 
el  rill  clar  corien  sol >r  els  .sablos 
la  u  s'espand  la  bhuica  tior  ties  lis/' 

Its  equivalent  in  thf  Frencli  of  tlie  present  day  would 
be  much  as  follows : 

"  Aux  chants  des  (Visoaux,  coinmen^a  ma  clianson,  quand  se  mettent 
a  chanter  le  pinson  et  I'aigle,  (jiiand  dans  les  epais  Ijerceaux  je  vols 
verdoyer  la  terre,  que  la  fleiir  l»leLie  fleurit  cntre  les  buisaons  et  que  le 
ruisseau  clair  court  sur  les  sables  oil  s'dpanouit  la  blanche  fleiir  des  lis." 


DIALECT. 


183 


Below  is  an  English  version,  in  which  I  have 
endeavoured  to  reproduce  the  form  and  arrangement  of 
rhymes  of  the  original ;  but  a  literal  translation  would  have 
sounded  almost  ludicrous  to  modern  ears : 

"  When  'rose  the  song  of  birds,  began  my  song, 
(both  king  and  humblest  songster  swell  the  strain) ; 

around  thick  arbours,  green  grass  waving  free, 
and  blue  flowers  mingling  with  the  golden  grain  ,• 
clear  streams  course  gaily  to  the  same  refrain 
with  water-lilies  floating  joyously." 

A.  C.  D. 

Language  of  oi,  1160. 

"  Quand  florist  la  violettc 
la  rose  et  la  flor  de  glai, 
que  chanteiit  li  papegai, 
lors  mi  poignent  amorettes, 
qui  me  tiennent  gai. 

"  Mes  pie^a  ne  chantai ; 
or  chanterai 

et  ferai 
chanson  joliette 
[lOur  I'amour  de  m'amiette 
oil  grand  pie^a  me  donnai." 

The  following  is  au  English  version  : 

"  When  blooms  the  violet,  when  in  summer  hours, 

comes  forth  the  rose  and  stately  iris  grand, 

when  pigeon-coos  are  heard  o'er  all  the  land, 

within  my  heart  love's  fancies  come  in  showers, 

my  soul  rejoicing  more  than  do  the  flowers. 

"  Ne'er  yet  have  I  poured  forth  these  thoughts  in  song, 
but  now  will  (since  delay  hath  been  too  long), 

my  lady  tell  of  mine  aff"ection  strong, 
and  charm  her  ear  with  sweet  melodious  verse 
wherein  love's  rapturous  joys  I  will  rehearse, 
the  bliss  that  doth  to  mutual  joy  belong." 

J.  Y. 


181 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


DIALECT. 


185 


III  Italy  the  formation  of  tlie  modern  tongue  followed  a 
different  process ;  in  the  centre  of  the  Peninsula  Latin 
was  still  a  living  tongue,  spoken  by  all,  wliilst  tlie  endless 
recollections  attaching  themselves  to  the  idioms  of  Cicero 
and  Yirgil  helped  to  preserve  the  ancient  language  from 
outside  and  foreign  influences.  The  Barbarians  of  Northern 
Europe  who  were  able  to  impose  their  inflections  and  their 
pronunciation  upon,  and  completely  to  destroy  the  cha- 
racter of  tlie  language  of  the  conquered  peoples  of  France 
and  Northern  Italy  (owing  lo  the  ignorance  of  the  inhabi- 
tants and  their  use  of  an  unwritten  patois),  fared  differently 
however,  amongst  the  cultivated  people  of  Tuscany.     For 
here  exactly  the  reverse  took  place,  and  the  conquerors 
were  irresistibly  compelled  to  adopt  the  language  of  tlie 
vanquislied  country,  which  they  assimilated  to  their  own 
by  the  adoption  of  articles,  classification  under  grammati- 
cal rules,  and  the  abbreviation  of  words. 

"  The  Goth,"  says  Perticari,*  "  who  wished  for  bread,  and 
who  heard  the  Latin  people  he  had  come  amongst  say, 
*Da  mihi  ilium  panem"  sought  to  imitate  them  in  his 
desire  to  be  understood  and  said,  *  Da  mi .  .  .  il .  .  .  fane'  " 
Here  the  modern  construction  of  tlie  sentence  is  found, 
and  tlie  article  formed  out  of  a  Latin  pronoun. 

Under  such  conditions,  then,  one  can  well  imagine  that  the 
French  language  would  evolve  itself  far  less  quickly  than 
the  Italian.  And  such  indeed  was  the  case,  tijr  about  the  end 
of  the  eleventh  centyry,  the  latter  had  almost  attained  its 
present  form  ;  a  jtroof  of  which  we  find  when  we  examine 
one  of  the  oldest  examples  of  Italian  that  we  possess,  viz.  the 
somewhat  amorous  verses  of  Piero  delle  Yigne,t  the  poet 

♦  Delia  difesa  di  Dante. 

t  Fiero  delle  Vigm^  a  native  of  Capua,  who  by  his  eloquence  and  legal 
knowledge  raised  himself  from   a   very   humble   condition    to    the  oilice  of 


' 


of  the  court  of  the  Emperor  Frederick  IL,  the  earliest 
patron  and  protector  of  the  newly  born  language.*  Below 
is  an  extract  with  an  English  paraphrase  : 


(( 


<( 


Com  hoin  ck'e  in  mar,  ed  ha  spene  di  gire 
quando  vede  lo  tempo,  ed  ello  spanua, 
vostro  amore  mi  tiene  in  tal  desire, 
e  donami  sperauza  di  si  gran  gioia, 
clie  non  euro  sia  duglia  o  sia  marlire, 
uiembrando  I'iiora  ch'io  vengo  da  voi. 

Like  to  a  sailor  then,  by  tempests  backward  driven, 
his  little  bark,  sore  tost  by  storm  and  wave — 

when  U) !  a  soft  wind  blows,  new  hopes  to  him  are  given, 
joy  fills  his  heart,  his  craft  he  yet  may  save. 

Tis  thus  thy  love  doth  raise  my  soul  to  highest  heaven, 
as  thy  displeasuie  laid  it  in  its  grave." 

A.  C.  D. 


At  the  time  of  Dante— that  is,  towards  the  end  of  the 
thirteenth  century— the  Italian  language  was  definitely 
formed,  whilst  even  a  century  later  French,  both  as  spoken 
and  written,  strongly  recalls  the  language  of  o'i  of  the 
trouveres.  Ht^re  is  a  specimen  of  the  French  of  that 
day  as  it  existed  and  was  written  in  Paris  at  the  time 
of  Louis  XI. :  it  is  part  of  a  ballad  by  Francois  Villon, 
celebrating  the  heroines  of  history,  and  so  charming  in 
character  that  its  retrain  has  become  a  proverb  through- 
out France : 


Chancellor  to  the  Emperor  Frederick  II.  The  courtiers,  envious  of  his 
exalted  position,  contrived  by  means  of  forged  letters  to  make  Frederick 
believe  that  he  held  a  secret  and  traitorous  intercourse  with  the  Pope.  In 
consequence  of  this  he  was  condemned  to  lose  his  eyes,  and  in  despair  dashed 
his  brains  out  against  the  walls  of  a  church,  in  the  year  1245.  Both  Piero 
and  Frederick  composed  verses  io  the  Sicilian  dialect,  which  are  still  extant ; 
a  canzone  by  each  may  be  seen  in  the  9th  Book  of  the  Sonetti  and  Canzoni  di 
dlversi  autori  Tuscani,  published  by  Guinti  in  1527. — A.  C.  D. 
♦  Mallei — Storia  ddla  Lettcratara  Italiana. 


186 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 

"Dictes-moi  ou,  ne  en  quel  pay>, 
est  Flora  la  belle  Komaine, 
Archipiada  ne  Thais, 
qui  flit  sa  cousine  germaine ; 
echo  parlant  quand  bruyt  on  mainc 
dessas  riviere  ou  sus  estan, 
qui  beautte  eut  trop  plus  que  huniaine  ? 
Mais  oil  sent  les  neiges  d'antan  ? 


u 


La  royne  blanche  comme  ung  lys, 
qui  chatitait  k  voix  de  sereine ; 
Berthe  au  grand  pi<S,  Bi^trix,  Alix, 
Harembouges  qui  tint  le  Mayne  ? 
Et  Jebaone  la  bonne  Lorraine, 
que  Angloys  bruslerent  h  Rouen  ? 
Oil  sont-ils,  vierge  souveraiue '? 
Mais  oil  sont  les  neigis  d'autan  V  "  * 


•*  Tell  me  now  in  what  strange  air 
the  Komaii  Fl«>ra  dwells  to-day. 
Wliere  Areliipi>iada  liides,  and  where 
beautiful  Thais  has  passed  away  V 
Wlience  answers  Eclio,  a  field,  astray 
l>y  mere  or  stream, — arounil,  1h-1ow? 
Lovelier  she  tliaii  a  w<>ii>aii  ot  clay  ; 
nay,  but  where  is  the  last  year's  snow  V 


»( 


Where's  that  White  Queen,  a  lily  rare, 
witli  h'  et  song,  tlie  SirciTs  la\  V 

Wliere's  llertlia  Broadf«)Ot,  lieatrice  lairV 
Alys  and  Ermengarde,  where  are  they  ? 
G(XkI  Joan,  whom  English  di.l  betray 
in  Eoiieii  ttAvn,  and  burned  her?     No, 
maiden  and  queen,  no  man  miv  -ay  ; 
nay,  but  where  is  tlie  last  year's  snow  ?  " 


♦  Through  the  kimlness  of  Mr.  Andrew  Lang  I  «im  enahle.l  to  ii)>eit  his 
adaptation  of  the  foregoing  ballad,  the  whole  of  which  may  be  found  in  ins 
spirited  little  collection  of  verses  entitled  XXXlIBaUmksinBlucChia't.— 


DIALECT. 


187 


Tlie  French  and  Italian  languages  once  formed  and 
definitely  fixed  by  the  most  certain  means  possible,  viz.  the 
introduction  of  printing,  the  various  dialects  fell  necessa- 
rily int^  the  background  and  underwent  no  further  modifi- 
cation. And  of  tliese  dialects,  or  patois,  the  Italian 
peninsula  possesses  an  extraordinary  number ;  for,  with  the 
exception  of  Tuscany,  all  the  great  geographical  divisions 
of  the  country  speak  a  distinct  one,  which,  though  very 
dissimilar  in  its  construction,  even  to  that  of  its  nearest 
nei<»hbour,  vet  has  sufficient  resemblance  to  all  to  enable 
those  speaking  it  to  understand  the  others  without  much 

difficulty. 

The  existence  of  tliese  dialects,  which  are  used  by  all 
classes  and  upon  all  occasions  when  not  compelled  to 
employ  the  national  or  official  language,  affords  a  subject 
of  tlie  most  interesting  study  to  the  enthusiastic  philolo- 
gist. But  one  cannot  tail  most  keenly  to  deplore  it,  looking 
upon  the  question  from  an  educational  standpoint ;  for  no 
doubt  here  it  is  a  serious  obstacle,  from  the  fact  that  when 
a  child  is  taught  to  read,  he  is  compelled  to  do  so  in  a 
language  which  is  quite  new  to  him. 

The  Italian  dialects  in  the  present  day,  then,  are 
the  result  of  the  varied  and  successive  influences  through 
which  the  Peninsula  has  passed,  and  may  be  roughly 
classified  as  follows  :— (1)  There  is  the  original  language 
of  each  province,  which  has  lingered  on,  a  shadow  of  its 
former  self,  for  many  centuries.  (2)  The  immigration  of 
the  barbarous  hordes  from  the  north,  which  ditfered  in 
importance  in  one  province  from  another.  (3)  The  invasion 
of  foreign  armies  of  the  Middle  Ages  and  even  in  modern 
times;  and  (4)  the  two  official  languages  which  followed 
one  after  the  other,  Latin  and  then  Italian.     And  the 


188 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


traces  left  by  these  influences  arc  so  dt'cisivel y  marked,  that 
they  enable  us  to  interj>ret  correctly  the  peculiar  accent  of 
each  patnis,  the  special  words  natural  to  them,  and  their 
local  idioms,  and  to  discover,  in  each  one  of  the  dialects 
of  the  Peninsula,  the  special  history  of  tlie  people  who 
s[)eak  it. 

Tluis  the  Genoc'se  exchange  the  h  and  the  'p  for  g  and  c, 
which  is  probably  a  reminiscence  of  the  primitive  idiom 
of  Lignria  :  using  (jianco  fur  hianco,  Taggia  for  Tahhia, 
eiu  for  'piii,  cian  for  piano;  in  addition  to  arbitrarily 
crippling  many  words  (this,  no  doul't,  arising  from  the  in- 
Huence  of  tlie  Goths),  such  as  AlbUaula  for  Alha  Bocilia, 
Vintimilium  for  AlUntemeUum,  Mostaccini  for  Mous 
Station  is* 

Tlie  dialects  of  Upper  Italy,  harsh  in  sound  and 
abounding  in  consonants  and  qnaint  contracticms,  have 
preserved  nothing  of  the  sonorous  harmony  of  the  raagni- 
ticent  Romance  language,  which,  had  it  not  been  for  the 
chance  of  political  events,  might  have  become  tlie  language 
of  France. 

Komance  is  limited  in  thi3  present  day  to  the  territory 
comprised  between  the  Alps  and  the  Pyrenees,  and  here  it 
is  spoken  almost  in  its  original  purity  ;  perhaps,  indeed,  it 
is  amongst  the  mountains  of  the  '*  County  "  of  Nice  that  the 
language  of  tlie  Troubadours  has  experienced  the  least 
change. 

Here  are  some  siiecimens  of  the  Nifois  dialect,  and  it  is 
interesting  to  remark  the  harmony  this  patois  i)rcsents 
with  those  verses  in  the  Komance  tongue  reproduced  a 
few  pages  back  : 

*  It  is  customary  to  say  ii  torre  dei  Mostaccini^  but  it  wuuU  be  iiiDro  in 
harmuiiv  with  the  urii^iu  of  the  mime  tu  use  the  biugular — dd  Mostaccini. 


DIALECT. 


189 


**La  filona  vi<Til:mta  non  va  mai  senza  camia. 

«  Si  coucciJl  (ie  biionVa  et  si  leva  de  buon  matin,  procura  sanita, 

fortiina  e  saojessa.  n    ^  r    i« 

«  Se  ainias  la  vida  non  prodighes  lo  temp  ;  car  lo  temp  es  1  estofa  de 

la  vi»la. 

"  Coiira  lo  iwns  cs  sec  si  conoisse  la  valour  de  Taiga. 

»  Acheu   die   va   serck   un   che  U  preste,  si  va  serca  nna  mortifi- 


cassion. 


»» 


IMost  of  the  above   are   very   fiimiliar   to   us   in  their 

English  form : 

"  The  indiistrions  seamstress  never  lacks  clothes. 

«  Early  to  bed  and  early  to  rise,  makes  a  man  healthy,  wealthy,  and 

"wise.  .       1    i.  ^•c 

"  If  yon  care  for  life,  don't  waste  your  time ;  for  time  is  what  hfe  is 

made  of.  .  , 

"  When  the  well  runs  dry,  one  Icams  what  \vater  is  wortn. 

"  He  who  goes  a  borrowing  goes  a  sorrowing." 

The  Genoese  dialect,  spoken  thronghout  the  territory 
which  formed  the  Lignrian  Republic  of  1797,  is  a  parti- 
cularly rich  and  sonorous  one ;  for,  quite  opposed  to  that 
of  the  Piedmontese  (which  slurs  over  the  vowels  and 
strongly  accente  the  consonants),  it  suppresses  the  latter 
and  dmibles  the  former.  This  tendency  exists  above  all  m 
Western  Liguria,  where  the  diphthongs,  contracted  into  one 
sound  by  ihe  Genoese,  preserve  their  pronunciation  as  two 
distinct  vowels,  strongly  accentuated.  I  give  a  few 
examples:  aiga  for  mgua,  faeto  hrfmto,  and  andaeto  for 

andseto.  •    j    o  • 

The  following  verses,  extracted  from  the  Lunajo  do  bcto 
Tocca,  will  give  the  reader  an  idea  of  the  modern  patois  of 
the  Genoese  : 


190 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


A  MEIXIXXA. 

SUNETTO. 

"  Cut  bono  Vnvte  medica  in  sostansa  ? 
I  marotti  a  txiiari  con  estenuali. 
Qua^  son  de  questa  i  fruti  priiiripali  ? 
Clie  con  ciu  a  ia  teorie,  meiin  a  s'avmisn. 

Qnffi  son  i  mefjjio  fra  i  iiiediciuali? 
^giia  cada,  riiMsn  e  teiuperansa. 
De  salute  qua?  son  i  vei  segnali  ? 
Testa  fresca,  ]»e  cadi  e  netta  a  jtansa. 

Perche  i  meglii  lian  ])e-o  ciii  tan  to  siissiego? 
Perche  6  nobile  e  6  rieco  o  sjtera  in  lo. 
Clu  lia  ciii  l)on  a  8cami>h  nn  sec.>lo  intiviio? 

Clii  o  >|H/Ja  no  freqnenta,  ne  o  flotto. 

CV»se  giia<;na  clii  in  <;isa  ha  M-iiiprc  C>  nicgo? 
lTan<lasene  ciu  \nvMi >  aj-v  ScLair-." 


CHAPTER  XVL 

THE    RIVIERA    IN    OLDEN     DAYS. 
BY    ALFRED   C.    DOWSON. 

Travellings  in  the  Middle  Ages — Difficulties  oftcast  j.ath — Noteworthy 
travellers  :  Dante— St.  Catherine  of  Siena— Lady  Blessington's 
imitressioTw  .,f  Liguria — Ottening  of  the  Cornice  Road  in  1828 — 
Mules  sui't..-.  >.cil  by  diligence  and  pust-cliaise— Extract  from  'Miss 
Angel.' 

In  previous  chapters  an  endeavour  has  been  made  to  give 
some  idea  of  Bordighera  from  its  earliest  liistoric  days 
up  to  tliose  of  our  own,  its  first  development,  its  various 
struggles  and  sufferings,  its  long  dependence  on  Venti- 
miglia,  its  hardly  earned  freedom,  and,  finally,  its  con- 
dition  as  we  see  it  now,— a  rapidly  rising  \\intering  place. 


THE   RIVIERA   IN    OLDEN   DAYS. 


191 


The  history  of  some  of  the  adjacent  towns  of  interest  has 
also  been  slightly  touched  upon,  and  it  has  been  shown 
that   with   many   of  them   their  fortunes  and   those   of 
Bordighera  were  identical.     It  may  not,  then,  be  unin- 
teresting, before  passing  to  other  aspects  of  the  place,  to 
endeavour  to  recall  a  few  of  tiie  noteworthy  travellers 
who  have  journeyed  by  these  lovely,  if  rugged  shores ;  to 
give  some  idea  of  the  perils  and  discomforts  which  were 
associate.!  with  travelling  in  the  Middle  xVges  along  the 
Ligurian  coast  (and  not  then  only,  but  until  the  com- 
pletion of  the  Cornice  Road  in  1828)  ;  and  reproduce  some 
of  the  feelings  which  passed  their  minds  as  they  first 
gazed  on  the  same  blue  sky  and  sea,  and  the  same  glo- 
rious mountains  which  now  delight  us.     And  one  cannot 
help  wondering,  en  lyassant,  how  many  of  the  thousands  of 
modern  travellers  who  yearly  visit  this  coast— travelling 
from  Paris,  or  perhaps,  even  from  Calais,  in  a  luxurious 
cowpe  lit,  and  whose  greatest  discomfort  has  been  a  broken 
ni<>-ht's  rest  and  the  custom-house  at  Ventimiglia— ever 
cast  a  thought  as  to  how  travellers  fared  in  bygone  days, 
not  ten  or  twenty  years  ago,  when  tliere  was  neither  rail- 
way nor  ''Ba])ide''\  but  any  time  within  the  past  eight 
hundred  years,  before  the  existence  of  the  Cornice,  when 
the  only  means  of  transit  was  by  a  small  sailing  craft,  or 
on  mules  along  a  narrow  path  as  steep  as  it  was  dangerous. 
But  there  were  travellers  in  those  days,  and  even  before 
them.     For,  without  going  back  to  the  time  when  the 
Roman  Empire  extended  "  from  the  greater  to  the  lesser 
sea,"  let  us  think  for  a  moment  of  the  Papacy  in  its  most 
brilliant  period,  when  embassies,  missions  and  pilgrimages, 
soldiers  and    priests,   envoys,   monks    and  troubadours, 
passed  continually  along  the  coast;  when  Provence  was 


192 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


not,  as  now,  a  grographfenl  expression,  but  an  inipcrtiitit 
State,  and  the  dangers  from  corsair  and  tempest  rendered 
a  land  journey,  perilons  as  tbat  was,  at  least  safer  than 
one  by  sea. 

And  first  of  all  we  will  turn  to  one  of  tbe  greatest  wbo 
ever  passed  along  tliese  sbores :  no  less  a  one  tban  tbe  poet 
Dante,  wbo  must  bave  toiled  along  tbe  winding  coast 
patb — tbe  snrvival  of  tlie  older  Anrelian  Way — wbieb,  as 
he  says,  "led  from  Spezia  to  Turbia."  many  times  in  bis 
varied  wanderings;  and  we  can  well  imagine  bow  bis 
poetic  imagination  must  bave  been  cbarmed  as  tbe  various 
beauties  of  tbe  coast  opened  tbem selves  out  before  bim. 
We  have  seen  in  tbe  stanzas  quoted  on  page  59,  bow 
tbe  steepness  and  rugged ness  of  this  stony  and  winding 
track  suggested  to  bim  an  image  of  tbe  road  out  of  Pur- 
gatory ;  and  we  know  tbat  it  was  not  from  bis  imagination, 
wonderful  as  it  was,  tbat  lie  drew  tbe  graphic  picture,  but 
from  actual  and  painful  experience  of  tbe  roughness  and 
badness  of  tlie  road  in  question. 

Mrs.  01ii)hant,  in  her  most  cbarming  book,  '*  The  Makers 
of  Florence,"  gives  us  a  toucliing  picture  of  the  beart-sick 
and  weary  poet  on  one  of  tbese  journeys. 

It  is  a  letter  from  tbe  Prior  of  the  Convent  of  Santa 
Croce,  wbieb  was  *•  situated  on  tbe  bills  overlooking  tbe 
lovely  bay  of  Spezin,"  to  a  friend,  tilling  him  of  a  visit 
from  Dante,  wbo,  turned  back  again  from  tbe  gates  of  his 
beloved  Florence,  sought  and  found  iu  tbe  quiet  and 
soothing  atmosphere  of  tbe  monastery  a  temporary  rest- 
ing-place before  starting,  most  probably  on  foot,  for  the 
north :  possibly  for  Paris,  or  to  study  iit  Oxford,  as  some 
historians  believe.  Tbe  letter  is  too  long  for  insertion 
here,  simple  and  pathetic  as  it  is ;  but  I  cannot  forbear 


THE   RIVIERA   IN   OLDEN   DAYS. 


193 


1^ 


quoting  a  few  lines  from  it,  and  also  tbe  translator's  com- 
ments on  the  same ;  as  they  illustrate  tbe  subject  of  this 
chapter,  and  give  us  a  poetic  if  somewhat  imaginative 
picture  of  tbe  lonely  and  exiled  poet  as  be  sadly  wanders 
westward  along  tbe  rocky  coast  road  of  Liguria. 

The  letter  opens  with  an  account  of  tbe  poet  wearily 
standing,  waiting  for  admittance,  outside  the  monastery 
gates.  It  was,  as  far  as  it  is  possible  to  judge,  about  the 
year  1310,  and,  as  I  have  mentioned,  just  after  Dante 
bad  made  a  third  unsuccessful  attempt  to  return  to  Flo- 
rence ;  "  and  sick  at  heart,  the  poet  was  probably  at  this 
moment  on  his  way  to  tbe  northern  side  of  tbe  Alps,  and 
to  tbe  alien  world  far  from  Italy,  or  perhaps  to  one  of  the 
castles  upon  tbe  sunny  bills  above  tbe  eastern  Kiviera  of 
tbat  Malaspina  who  was  one  of  Dante's  protectors."  He 
appears  to  bave  been  anxious  to  leave  some  work  be  had 
lately  completed  with  the  good  prior  "  before  he  wended  bis 
way  into  those  strange  and  barbarous  countries,  whither 
be  went  in  exile  and  poverty  and  something  like  despair." 
Fra  Ilario  continues :  "  His  intention  being  to  travel  into 
ultramontane  regions,  be  passed  through  the  Diocese  of 
Luiui,  and  either  from  devotion  to  the  place  or  from  some 
other  cause,  came  to  this  monastery.  As  be  was  un- 
known to  me  and  my  brethren,  I  asked,  when  I  saw  him, 
'What  would  you?'  And  he  answering  not  a  word, 
but  gazing  at  the  building,  I  asked  him  again  what  he 
sought.  He  then,  looking  round  upon  me,  answered 
*  Peace.'  .  .  .  And  then  the  translator  continues, — 

"  This  vivid  and  touching  glimpse  of  the  wandering  poet,  already  so 
well  known  that  the  eager  monk  could  see  at  once  what  manner  of  man 
he  was,  and  recognised  him  as  soon  as  he  had  talked  to  him,  disperses 
the  shadows  for  one  brief  moment,  and  lights  up  the  gloom  in  which 
the  wanderer  was  almost  lost  to  us.     Who  could  it  have  been  but 


194 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


Dante?  straying  abstracted  by  the  convent  walls,  looking  at  the 
building  while  the  curious  friars  surrounded  him  with  their  questions, 
saying  out  of  his  deep,  weary,  melancholy  soul  the  one  word  '  Peace,* 
when  they  asked  him  what  he  wanted.  Alas!  that  was  the  thing  he 
was  not  to  have  any  more  than  the  rest  of  the  world.  .  .  . 

"  Only  for  a  moment,  however,  is  such  a  glimpse  of  the  great  way- 
farer i)ermitted  to  us.    Very  soon   he  has  to  resume  his  journey, 
leaving  the  sheltering  convent,   where  the  kind  prior  admired  and 
wondered  over  his  great  work,  solitary  and  sad,  yet  noting  with 
glowing,  abstracted  eyes  every  natural  feature  of  the  way,  transplanting 
the  *  wild  and  broken  paths '  between  Lerici  and  Turbia  into  his  Pur- 
gatory, and  receiving  into  his  heart  the  music  of  the  sea  and  the  winds. 
Gazing  wistfully  from  those  heights  over  that  loveliest  of  sea  lines, 
perhaps  hearing  softly  behind  him,  as  he  went  forth,  tlie  sound  of  Fra 
llario's  convent  bells,  what  softening  moisture  must  have  stolen  into 
the  poet's  eyes  as  the  magical  momentary  lUalian  twilight  grew  dim 
over  the  shining  water  between  night  and  day.  .  .  .  Not  on  so  ixjaceful 
a  sea  as  the  Mediterranean  was  Dante's  voyage,  but  as  he  gazed  over 
the  resplendent  waters  and  listened  to  the  distant  bell,  and  saw  the  soft 
day  die  before  lum,  drawing  a  sudden  veil  over  her  sunset  glories, 
what  a  touch  of  tender  sadness  was  that  wliich  made  him  think  of  the 
navigantl,  the  parting  sailors  who  had  that  day  bidden  sweet  friends 
farewell  !    He  too  was  saying  farewell  to  sweet  friends,  to  dear  hopes, 
to  Italy,  while  yet  one  of  the  fairest  of  landscapes  held  him,  and  the 
soft  dying  cadence  of  the  religious  bell  pu relied  him  like  a  recalling 
voice." 

With  one  more  quotation,  but  this  time  from  another 
source  (viz.  Euskin's  *  Modern  Painters')  T  will  leave 
Dante  and  pass  to  others  who  followed  in  his  footsteps. 
It  is  in  reference  to  the  same  subject,  however,  the  steep- 
ness of  the  Ligurian  coast-path,  and  the  suitableness  of 
the  similes  Dante  draws  from  it,  that  Mr.  Euskin  writes : 
but  how  true  are  his  words,  only  those  know  who  have 
either  on  foot  or  by  carriage  followed  the  Cornice  between 
the  two  points  named  in  the  stanzas  referred  to. 

"  The  similes  "  (says  Mr.  Ruskin)  "  in  vol.  iii.  of  the  above-mentioned 
work,  "  with  which  Dante  illustrates  the  steepness  of  that  ascent  (viz. 


THE   RIVIERA   IN   OLDEN   DAYS. 


195 


from  Purgatory),  are  all  taken  from  the  Riviera  of  Genoa,  now  traversed 
by  a  good  carriage-road  under  the  name  of  the  Cornice  ;  but  as  the  road 
did  not  exist  in  Dante's  time,  and  the  steep  precipices  and  promontories 
were  then  probably  traversed  by  footpaths,  which,  as  they  necessarily 
passed  in  many  places  over  crumbling  and  slippery  limestone,  were 
doubtless  not  a  little  dangerous :  and  as  in  a  manner  they  command 
the  bays  of  the  sea  below  and  lie  exposed  to  the  full  blaze  of  the 
south-eastern  sun,  they  corresix)nded  precisely  to  the  situation  of 
the  path  by  which  he  ascended  from  the  Purgatorial  sea,  the  image 
could  not  possibly  have  been  taken  from  a  better  source  for  the  fully 
conveying  his  idea  to  the  reader;  nor,  by  the  way,  is  there  reason 
to  discredit  in  this  place  his  powers  of  climbing ;  for  with  his  usual 
accuracy,  he  has  taken  the  angle  of  the  path  for  us,  saying  it  was  con- 
siderably more  than  45.  Now  a  continuous  mountain  slope  of  45  is 
already  quite  unsafe  either  for  ascent  or  descent,  except  by  iiig-zag 
paths,  and  a  greater  slojx}  than  this  could  not  be  climbed  straight- 
forward by  the  help  of  crevices  or  jags  in  the  rocks  and  physical 
exertion  besides." 

But  let  us  pass  on  towards  the  end  of  the  century,  and 
we  shall  come  upon  another  and  hardly  less  distinguished 
traveller  journeying  along  the  Kiviera,  though  on  this 
occasion  it  is  a  woman  with  a  small  escort  on  mules  or 
horses,  not  a  solitary  pedestrian,  who  attracts  our  notice ; 
no  less  a  personage,  indeed,  than  Catherine  of  Siena  on 
her  noble  errand  of  bringing  back  the  Papal  court  to 
Eome :  the  only  means  of  restoring  peace  and  order  in 
her  beloved  Italy.  And  apart  from  the  historic  and  senti- 
mental interest  of  this  celebrated  journey  and  the  noble 
picture  it  presents  us  of  a  woman's  courage  and  deter- 
mination overcoming  all  difficulties  (of  which  physical 
weakness  was  not  the  least),  there  are  two  points  brought 
out  by  it  bearing  on  the  subject  of  this  chapter,  viz. :  the 
time  it  occupied  and  the  state  of  the  coast-path.  For  we 
find,  first,  that  the  journey  from  Florence  to  Avignon, 
which,  thanks  to  the  railway,  now  takes  less  than  twenty- 
four  hours,  was  then  a  question  of  weeks ;  and,  secondly. 

0  2 


196 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


H 


that  no  improvement  whatever  had  taken  place  in  this, 
the  onit/  coast  road  between  Provence  and  Italy,  during 
the  sixty  or  seventy  years  which  had  elapsed  since  Dante's 
account  of  it;  and  that  the  same  difficulties  and  dangers, 
the  same  sharp  turns  and  steep  and  stony  descents,  were 
still  to  be  found  there.  The  fact  also  of  this  journey  of 
St.  Catherine  and  her  escort  having  been  such  a  lengthy 
one,  gives  us  a  very  good  idea  of  the  time  consumed  in 
travelling  in  those  days ;  for  we  know  that  hers  was  one 
where  speed  was  of  the  greatest  importance,  and  her 
party  being  only  small,  and  well  mounted,  would  naturally 
push  forward  with  fewer  delays  than  usual.  But  what  do 
we  find  ?  That  with  all  her  anxiety  to  reach  her  destina- 
tion quickly,  it  took  Catherine  nearly  three  weeks  to  travel 
from  Florence  to  Avignon ! 

"  She  left,"  we  are  told,  "  the  former  city  as  Ambas- 
sador of  the  Florentines  to  Pope  Gregory,  in  the  summer 
of  1376,  in  the  early  days  of  June ; "  and  though  suffering 
in  health,  her  illness  being  aggravated  by  the  heat  and 
the  fatigues  of  the  journey,  she  travelled  with  as  great  a 
speed  as  was  possible.     Her  journey  for  the  first  few  days 
would  pass  smoothly  enough  along  the  valley  of  the  Arno 
and  across  the  flat  country  lying  at  the  foot  of  the  Carrara 
Mountains,  until  she  arrived  at  Spezia.     Here,  however, 
the  road  almost  immediat*  ly  elianges  in  character,  and 
becomes,  as  we  have  just  seen  it  described,  steep,  rocky, 
and  dangerous,  as  it  winds  around  or  across  the  many 
headlands  lying  between  Spezia  and  Cleuoa;   and  then 
again,  after  a  day's  journey  of  smoother  travelling,  re- 
sumes  its  better  known  and    wilder  features  until  it 
crosses  the  Var.    To  quote  tlie  words  of  Mrs.  Butler  in  her 
charming  life  of  this  saint,  "We  can  only  imagine  what 


THE   RIVIERA   IN   OLDEN   DAYS. 


197 


wt 


1 


the  toils,  or  indeed  the  pleasures  of  this  journey  may  have 
been,  along  the  beautiful  Kiviera,  passing  beyond  the 
Maritime  Alps  and  the  Esterel,  by  Frejus  and  Toulon,  to 
IMarseilles,  and  thence  through  the  flat  and  desolate  por- 
tions of  the  department  of  the  Boiiches  du  Bhone,  entering 
the  sunny  and  verdant  lands  of  Provence.*'  *  " Catherine," 
she  tells  us,  "lost  no  time  on  her  way,  being  impatient  to 
reach  her  destination,"  and  yet  it  was  not  until  the  18th 
of  June  that  this  long  and  most  exhausting  journey  came 
to  an  end,  and  the  little  party  entered  the  gates  of  the 
old  Provencal  city.  And  only  tho^Q  forestieri  who  have 
remained  on  the  Riviera  as  late  as  the  date  mentioned 
will  be  able  to  form  any  idea  of  what  fatigue  and  suffering 
this  delicate  but  determined  woman  must  have  gone 
through,  riding  continually  for  so  many  days  along  this 
rugged  path,  exposed  to  the  full  force  of  an  almost  tropical 
sun.  Indeed,  to  show  with  what  feelings  such  a  journey 
was  viewed  in  those  days,  and  how  grave  were  considered 
the  perils  of  all  kinds  which  encompassed  it,  it  is  only 
needful  to  make  a  quotation  from  the  Bull  for  the  Cano- 
nization of  Catherine,  issued  by  Pius  II.  in  1461,  wherein 
were  set  forth  the  various  acts  entitling  her  to  that 
honour:  and  amongst  which  we  find  it  specially  stated, 
"  that,  to  reconcile  the  Florentines  and  the  Church,  she 
did  not  hesitate  even  to  cross  the  Apennines  and  the  Alps 
in  order  to  reach  Gregory  our  predecessor." 

I  have  not  here  space  to  refer  to  other  noteworthy 
travellers  who,  during  the  Middle  Ages,  journeyed  through 
Liguria,  but  will  leap  at  once  over  several  centuries  and 
see  what   an  English  lady,  and  she   an  authoress  too ! 

*  Mrs.  Butler  appears  to  forget  that  Catherine  had  entered  Provence  on 
crossing  the  Var. — A.  C.  D. 


198 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


thouglit  of  this  coast-road  at  the  commencement  of  the 
present  century. 

The  individual  in  question  was  the  well-known  Lady 
Blessington,  the  friend  of  Byron;  and  the  work  from 
which  I  have  gained  tlie  information  I  now  place  before 
the  reader  is  her  •  Idler  in  Italy,'  which,  though  rarely 
opened  in  the  present  day,  met  with  a  great  success  on  its 
first  appearance ;  although  in  looking  through  it  now,  and 
remembering  that  the  work  in  question  passed  through 
several  editions,  one  is  filled  with  wonder  that  readers 
could  have  borne  the  moralisings  which  occur  in  every 
page,  without  throwing  it  aside  in  absolute  weariness. 

But  for  us  it  has  an  especial  interest,  as  it  contains  an 
account  of  a  coast  journey  from  Nice  to  Savona  prior  to  the 
opening  of  the  Cornice ;  and  we  learn  from  it  that  the  path 
was  still  a  mule  track,  and  as  rough  and  stony  as  when 
Dante  and  St.  Catherine  passed  over  it,  four  centuries 
before  ;  and  that  unless  a  traveller  was  prepared  to  rough 
it,  be  he  lord  or  pedler,  he  had  better  stay  at  home. 

We  will  make  our  acquaintance  with  her  ladyship  and 
party  at  Nice,  at  which  town  we  find  them,  like  most 
travellers  who  arrived  at  that  point  of  the  journey,  debat- 
ing as  to  the  manner  of  proceeding ;  for  they  were  bound 
to  Florence,  where  they  proposed  to  spend  the  spring. 

"The  usual  route  by  land,"  she  tells  us,  "is  over  the  Col  di  Teiida 
and  via  Turin,  Imt  this  being  impracticable,  owing  to  snow  (the  date  is 
March  21st),  and  as  we  had  a  strong  objection  to  a  voyage  in  d,  felucca, 
we  determined  to  proceed  to  Genoa  by  the  route  of  the  Cornice,  which 
admits  of  but  two  modes  of  conveyance,  a  chaise  a  porttttrs  or  on  horse- 
back, or  rather  on  mule-back." 

Think  of  this,  luxurious  traveller  of  the  present  day  ! 
You  who,  leaving  Nice  by  the  4.40  p.m.  express,  grumble 


THE   RIVIERA   IN  OLDEN  DAYS. 


199 


m 


violently  if  you  are  not  deposited  punctually  in  the 
brightly  lit  station  at  Genoa  by  11 .  20 ;  and  yet  the  state 
of  locomotion  just  referred  to  was  barely  seventy  years 
ago! 

But  to  return  to  her  ladyship. 

The  Cornice  Eoad,  as  has  been  previously  mentioned, 
was  commenced  by  Napoleon  some  years  before  his  fall, 
and  at  the  time  we  are  speaking  of  was  partially  opened ; 
but  evidently  that  portion  where  wheels  could  pass  was  in 
a  most  incomplete  state,  for  the  writer  mentions,  **  We 
were  enabled,  as  far  as  Mentone,  to  use  one  of  the  light 
carriages  of  the  country,  but  here  we  must  have  recourse 
to  mules,  which  our  courier  is  now  busily  examining."  Of 
course  she  falls  into  ecstasies  over  the  views,  "which  sur- 
passed our  expectations,*'  and  in  a  less  degree  over  the  road, 
"  which  is  remarkably  good  and  bears  indelible  mark  of 
him  who  planned  it;  boldly  designed  and  solidly  con- 
structed, with  a  disregard  to  difficulties  or  a  complete 
triumph  over  them,  it  reminds  one  of  that  daring  man  who 
said  he  disbelieved  in  impossibilities," — and  so  on  for  half  a 
page.  The  village  of  Turbia  and  the  ruin  next  attract  her 
attention,  and  she  w^as  naturally  anxious  to  obtain  some 
information  as  to  the  latter's  history,  but  the  custom- 
house officer — for  it  is  the  Monaco  frontier — could  only  in- 
form her  "  in  a  very  pompous  manner, '  that  it  was  a  very 
fine  and  ancient  ruin,  well  worthy  of  the  attention  of 
travellers.' "  Soon  afterwards  the  first  view  of  Monaco 
fills  her  with  delight.  "  It  looked  at  a  distance  like  a  town 
built  by  children,  and  its  pigmy  white  houses,  peeping  out 
from  groves  of  olive,  orange,  and  lemon  trees,  have  a 
beautiful  appearance."  Another  page  of  rapture  must  be 
imagined,  in  which  occurs  this  somewhat  peculiar  sen- 


fl 


200 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


THE   RIVIERA   IN   OLDEN   DAYS. 


201 


teDce:  "At  each  step  some  new  and  attractive  view  fills  us 
with  admiration,  and  begets  the  desire  of  fixing  upon  some 
one  of  the  various  beautiful  sights  (sic)  for  a  resi- 
dence ! " 

A  house  built  upon  a  "  sight "  would  prove,  one  would 
imagine,  a  veritable  Chateau  mEsfagml 

At  Mentone,  she  tells  us,  she  went  to  the  Hotel  de  Turin, 
"  which  was  in  a  state  of  primitive  simplicity ;  for  it  did 
not  even  possess  a  tea-pot !  Tlie  landlady  indeed  had  pos- 
sessed one,  the  only  one  in  the  town,  and  that  given  her 
by  Lady  Bute,  but  in  an  evil  hour  it  had  been  broken  by 
having  been  placed  on  the  fire  to  boil  water ; "  a  some- 
what dissimilar  state  of  things  to  Mentone  as  we  know  it 
now. 

Here  the  party  mounted  mules,  and  evidently  mule-back 
was  not  so  conducive  to  moralising  as  sitting  in  a  carriage, 
for  the  authoress  is  much  more  practical  during  this  portion 
of  the  journey  than  previously.  She  mentions  the  bridge 
of  St.  Louis  being  then  finished,  but  oddly  enough  places  it 
"  about  six  miles  from  Mentone,"  and  then  refers  to  the 
dilatory  way  in  which  the  works  for  the  Cornice  were 
being  carried  on,  "some  eight  or  ten  labourers  being  em- 
ployed where  one  hundred  ought  to  be."  They  slept  at 
Ventimiglia,  "  the  inn  being  extremely  bad  in  every  re- 
spect, except  not  being  unclean ; "  and  Lady  Blessington 
adds  that  she  was  very  much  struck  during  the  whole 
length  of  this  mule  journey,  a  ride  in  fact  from  one  end 
of  Liguria  to  the  other,  *'  with  the  wonderful  attention  paid 
to  cleanliness,  for  nowhere  have  we  seen  ought  approach- 
in;;  to  the  untidiness  and  dirt  we  had  so  much  reason  to 
complain  of  in  France."  And  so  day  by  day  the  little 
party  jogged  onwards,  and  it  will  perhaps  give  a  better 


\ 


n 


idea  of  the  mode  of  travelling  on  this  coast,  prior  to  the 
opening  of  the  Cornice,  if  I  insert  her  account  of  it. 

"  There  cannot  be  a  more  agreeable  mode  of  travelling  than  on  mules ; 
their  pace,  which  is  an  amble,  a  movement  between  a  quick  walk  and 
a  trot,  is  not  fatiguing ;  and  the  animals  are  so  sure-footed  they  seldom 
make  a  false  step  even  on  the  worst  roads.  Our  party  consists  of 
thirteen  persons,  and  to  these  two  muleteers  are  allotted,  whose  duty 
it  is  to  whip  on  the  mules  and  to  lead  them  over  those  i^ortions  of  the 
road  which  are  considered  dangerous.  It  is  distressing  to  see  these 
l)Oor  men  trotting  along,  covered  with  dust,  and  half  dissolved  beneath 
the  rays  of  the  sun,  which  is  really  scorching,  though  we  are  only  at 
the  end  of  March.*  .  .  .  The  saddles  on  which  women  ride  here 
resemble  the  pillions  used  in  Ireland,  except  that  they  have  backs  and 
sides  formed  of  leather  and  stuffed  with  hair.  The  rider  sits  side-ways 
with  her  feet  supix)rted  by  a  band,  which  is  suspended  like  a  stirrup. 
The  route  sometimes  diverges  from  the  sea-side  and  passes  through 

ravines  thickly  wooded,  but  the  sea  is  seldom  lost  sight  of  for  more 
than  fifteen  or  sixteen  minutes,  and  the  return  to  it  always  gives 
])leasure.  Sonictinies  our  route,  if  route  it  may  be  called,— for  in  many 
places  it  is  but  a  wild  track,— passes  over  the  ledge  of  rocks  hundreds  of 
feet  above  the  sea,  which  is  on  our  right,  while  the  rocks  themselves 
rise  so  high  above  the  track  to  the  left,  that  nothing  but  the  heavens 
and  the  azure  mirror  which  reflects  them  is  visible.  The  heat,  during 
the  time  occupied  in  travelling  along  such  parts,  is  very  great,  for  the 
high  barrier  of  rocks  that  towers  above  it  intercepts  the  air,  and  reflects 
the  rays  of  the  sun  like  a  burning  glass.  The  track  often  descends  to 
the  sandy  beach  on  whicli  a  very  narrow  iX)rtion  is  left  uncovered  by 
the  sea  that  bathes  tlie  feet  of  the  mules,  two  only  of  which  can  pass 
abreast  on  the  sand." 

In  this  manner  the  cavalcade  worked  its  way  slowly 
along  the  narrow  coast-path  with  apparently  no  more  ex- 
citing incident  t  than  that  caused  by  a  human  skull  being 

♦  If  this  was  Lady  Blessington's  experience  in  March,  we  may  infer  what 
St.  Catherine  suffered  in  June  I 

t  Lady  Blessington  seems  to  have  been  more  fortunate  than  some  other 
English  travellers  who  passed  along  the  same  path  a  few  years  before— two 
Encrlish  ladies  and  their  brother;  (ox  in  crossing  one  of  the  torrents  they  were 


I  I 


':  i' 


202 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


rolled  by  the  waves  at  the  feet  of  the  authoress,  or  her 
n.ule  ratU  which  gives  an  opportunity,  too  tempting  to  be 
thrown  away,  for  two  pages  of  fine  writing !  However, 
they  arrive  at  Savona  on  the  evening  of  the  sixth  day  after 
leaving  Mentone,  at  which  town  the  journey  on  mule- 
back  commenced ;  and  in  spite  of  her  ladyship's  enthusiasm 
for  this  even  then  old-fashioned  mode  of  travelling,  it  is 
difficult  to  believe  she  was  sorry  to  find  again  a  carriage- 
road  and  *'  proceed  to  Genoa  in  coaches  of  the  country." 

Such  then  was  travelling  in  Liguria  up  to  the  opening 
of  the  Cornice  in  1828,  at  which  period  the  heavy  travel- 
ling carriage  of  Milord  Anglais,  and  the  still  heavier 
diligence,  were  enabled  to  pass  on  a  good  road  the  entire 
distance  between  Marseilles  and  Genoa.  Grand  days 
these,  not  only  for  the  Vetturino  and  all  his  numerous  kin, 
but  for  all  travellers  who  really  cared  to  see  something  of 
the  country  through  which  they  passed,  and  to  whom 
neither  time  nor  money  were  important. 

But  in  1873  the  railway  was  opened  throughout  between 
the  same  two  important  towns,  and  another  and  still  more 
remarkable  change  took  place.  For  the  Rapide  now 
brought  the  impatient  tourist  in  thirty  hours  from  Paris  to 
the  frontier,  where,  after  half-an-hour's  delay  and  the  dis- 
comforts of  the  Douane,  another  express  train  in  four 
hours  would  land  him  at  Genoa ;  a  hasty  glimpse  between 
countless  tunnels,  of  blue  sea  and  wonderful  capes  on  one 
side,  and  grey  mountains,  pine  and  olive-clad  hills,  and 
now  and  then  an  orange  or  lemon  valley  on  the  other, 


THE   mVIEBA  IN   OLDEN   DAYS. 


203 


nearly  swept  awaj,  and  only  saved  with  difficulty.  One  of  these  ladies  also 
kept  a  diary,  and  published  it  in  1817,  but  it  does  not  appear  to  have  met 
with  the  same  success  as  that  from  which  J  have  been  (luoting. 


being  his  confused  recollection  of  the  Riviera  !  Alas !  both 
the  time  and  the  men  have  changed,  and,  to  quote  the 
words  of  a  modern  author :  * 

«  Not  for  them  the  joyous  assembling  on  the  Mediterranean  shore, 
where  Nice  lies  basking  in  the  sun,  like  pink  surf  thrown  up  by  the 
waves.  Not  for  them  the  packing  of  the  great  carriages,  and  the 
swinging  away  of  the  four  horses  with  their  jingling  bells,  and  the  slow 
climbing  of  the  Cornice,  the  road  twisting  up  the  face  of  the  prey 
mountains,  through  perpetual  lemon  groves,  with  far  below  the  ribbed 
blue  sea.  Not  for  them  the  leisurely  trotting  all  day  long  through  the 
luxuriant  beauty  of  the  Riviera,— the  sun  hot  on  the  ruddy  cliffs  of 
granite  and  on  the  terraces  of  figs  and  vines  and  spreading  palms  [no 
doubt,  here  he  has  Bordighera  in  his  mind],  nor  rattling  through  the 
narrow  streets  of  old  walled  towns,  with  scarlet-capped  men  and 
swarthy-visaged  women  shrinking  into  door-ways  as  the  horses  clatter 
by  ;  nor  the  quiet  evenings  in  the  hotel  garden,  with  the  moon  rising 
over  the  murnmring  sea  and  the  air  sweet  with  the  perfume  of  the 
south." 

I  cannot  conclude  this  chapter  more  fitly  than  by  trans- 
ferring to  it  a  bright  little  sketch  of  Bordighera  by  Miss 
Thackeray,  in  her— but  slightly  idealised— life  of  Angelica 
Kauffman,  entitled ''  Miss  Angel '' ;  especially  as  it  refers  to 
a  rest  made  by  some  travellers  along  this  coast  in  the 
eighteenth  century  ;  and  the  few  clever  touches  in  which 
she  gives  her  impression  of  the  place,  "the  sunshine 
everywhere,  the  avenue  of  lemons  and  olives,  the  shepherd 
followed  by  his  goats,  and  they  by  the  two  children  in 
their  goat-skin  coats  [how  well  one  knows  them  !  wander- 
ing  up  and  down  the  Via  Bomana,  the  half-starved  flock, 
nibbling  at  the  scanty  herbage  beneath  the  olives],  the 
ivy- grown  wall,  &c.  &c.,"— all  these  cannot  fail  to  bring 
back  Bordighera  to  those  who  have  once  visited  it. 

She  has,  however,  been  guilty  oi'  an  amusiug  anachron- 

*  W.  Black  :  the  .quotation  is  from  Sunrise, 


m 


204 


LOCAL  TIISTOllY. 


ism,  wliich  I  daresay  has  escaped  tlie  notice  of  the  hirger 
number  of  those  who  have  read  the  book.  It  consists 
in  making  the  heavy  travelling  carriage,  which  con- 
tains Miss  Angel  and  the  Ambassador's  party,  change 
horses  at  Bordighera  !  The  journey  in  question,  however, 
is  supposed  to  take  place  in  the  middle  of  the  last  century 
(about  the  year  1765),  when — alas !  for  Miss  Thackeray's 
unities— there  was,  as  we  have  seen,  nothing  but  a  mule- 
path  existing  between  Savona  and  Nice. 

But  now  for  the  extract. 

After  describing  the  journey  througli  the  plains  of 
Lombardy,  **  in  their  beauty  and  tranquillity,"  and  then 
the  siglit  of  the  Mediterranean  "  with  its  long  rolling 
breakers,  its  bordering  groves  and  hills,  where  olives  climb 
the  steep  declivities,  and  from  their  smoking  pyre  rise 
white  villages,  like  flames  bursting  from  the  summits," 
she  continues— 


C( 


Tliey  stopjied  to  change  horses  at  a  little  place  called  Bordighera, 
on  the  Mediterranean.  .  .  .  Here  tlie  sun  came  out  and  the  clouds 
disap}>eared  :  a  sort  of  dimmed  brightness  was  everywhere.  It  lay  on 
the  sea,  on  the  village,  in  a  little  smiling  grove  beyond  a  wall,  where  a 
small  gate  hung  on  its  hinges.  Miss  Aii;^m1  went  up  a  little  way  along 
an  avenue  of  lemon  and  of  olives,  and  breathed  tlie  sweet  morning 
pastoral  silence.  She  came  tu  an  old  ivy-grown  well,  as  she  walked 
aud  sat  down,  resting  upon  its  in;uii,iM.  The  pretty  i>eiLsive  figure 
itself  was  not  unsuggestive,  looking  thoughtfully  down  into  the  water. 
Her  heart  beat  with  hojie,  with  a  sort  of  rumaiitic  delight  and  sweet 
absurdity.  Some  jieasants  i>assed  :  a  woman  carrying  a  load  of  leaves 
and  tendrils  of  vines,  and  driving  a  beautiful  white  cow  with  long 
arched  horns.  Then  came  a  sliejdierd  fullow^ed  by  some  goats  trotting 
with  tinkling  bells,  and  lastly,  two  little  children  with  goat-skin  coats  ; 
one  had  her  hands  full  of  leaves  and  olives.  The  youngest  was 
carrying  something  held  carefully  against  its  little  breast.  The  child 
looked  with  two  wild  eyes  at  the  jiretty  lady  leaning  against  the  old 
iron  clank  of  the  well.  Something  in  her  look  invited  confidence,  and 
he  held  up  a  little  dead  bird  as  he  i>assed. 


1 


BRITISH  OPERATIONS  IN  THE  18tH  CENTURY.   205 

" '  What  are  you  going  to  do  with  it  ? '  Angel  asked  kindly. 
" '  We  are  going  to  dig  a  grave,'  said  the  child.  *  It  is  dead : '  and  the 
little  thing  walked  on  wdth  careful  steps." 

Where  can  we  find  a  prettier  picture  ?  The  graceful 
girl  in  the  becoming  dress  of  that  period,  which  Leslie's 
canvases  have  made  us  all  familiar  with,  resting  on  the 
ivy-grown  well;  around  and  behind,  lemons  and  olives 
forming  a  background,  and  rising  beyond  again,  the  white 
houses  of  the  old  town,  glistening  in  the  sunshine,  and  in 
front  the  two  dark-eyed  children  in  their  rough  goatskins, 
looking  up  into  Angel's  face.  And  yet,  charming  as  it  is, 
not  a  more  suggestive  subject  for  an  artist's  brush  than 
may  be  seen,  not  once  but  many  times,  even  in  the  present 
day,  by  all  who  journey  with  their  eyes  open  along  these 
Ligurian  shores. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

BRITISH    OPERATIONS   ON    THE   RIVIERA   IN   THE 
EIGHTEENTH   CENTURY. 

BY     ALFRED    C.     DOW  SON. 

Origin  of  the  Spanish  war  of  1737^Captain  Jenkins  and  his  ear- 
Admiral  Mattliews  ap])ointed  to  command  of  British  fleet — Com- 
I)laints  as  to  the  inefficiency  of  sliips— Captures  French  troops- 
Fortifies  Turbia  and  Villa  Franca— Spanish  agents  collecting  sup- 
lilies  of  grain,  &c.,  at  Ventimiglia— Letters  giving  particulars  of 
same— Order  to  Captain  Martin  to  destroy  them— What  actually 
took  place— Tobias  Smollett  aud  the  Young  Pretender. 

Towards  the  conclusion  of  Chapter  XL,  in  that  portion 
which  treats  of  the  vicissitudes  of  Ventimiglia,  the  reader 
may  have  been  struck  by  the  mention,  quite  incidentally, 
of  the  taking  and  sacking  of  that  town  by  the  English, 


I 


206 


locaIj  history. 


under  Admiral  Matthews.  He  may  perhaps  have  won- 
dered what  brought  the  fleet  into  the  neighbourhood,  and 
why  80  extreme  and  savage  a  proceedino;  was  necessary. 
Such  at  least  was  the  feeling  of  tlie  writer  of  the  present 
chapter ;  and  as  no  information  reerardinor  it  was  to  be 
found  in  the  naval  histories  of  that  period,  and  having  a 
strong  impression  that  local  tradition  had  greatly  exag- 
gerated what  really  occurred,  he  obtained  permission  to 
examine  the  Admiralty  records  of  the  year  when  the 
attack  was  said  to  have  taken  place.  The  result  was  as  he 
had  expected ;  but  as  the  search  opened  up  a  new  phase 
of  English  naval  history  to  him,  he  has  thought  that  other 
visitors  to  the  Eiviera,  even  if  not  sharing  liis  ignorance, 
might  yet  care  to  know  something  of  the  causes  which  led 
to  the  English  appearing  as  belligerents  on  the  Ligurian 
coast,  and  also  details  of  the  operations  against  Venti- 
miglia  which  had  given  rise  to  the  tradition  just 
referred  to. 

Before,  however,  I  take  notice  of  the  special  operations 
carried  on  in  this  neighbourhood  by  Admiral  Matthews 
during  the  years  1742-43,  a  few  words  as  to  the  origin  of 
the  war,  the  cause  of  its  extending  to  this  coast,  and  the 
reason  of  our  taking  part  in  it,  may  not  be  uncalled  for ; 
for  why,  if  we  were  at  war  with  iSpain  (as  the  reader  may 
remember  was  the  case),  were  we  blockading  the  coast  of 
Liguria  and  Provence  from  Genoa  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Khone  ?  The  answer  is  a  long  one,  but  I  will  endeavour 
to  give  it  in  as  few  words  as  possible. 

For  the  past  hundred  years — indeed,  since  the  reign  of 
Elizabeth  —  the  efforts  of  the  English  to  trade  with 
the  Spanish  South  American  colonies,  and  the  determina- 
tion of  the  latter  Government  to  put  a  stop  to  this  trading. 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   THE   18tH   CENTURY.       207 

had  led  to  endless  conflicts ;  for,  whether  there  was  war  or 
peace  in  Europe,  it  was  always  war  south  of  the  Equator. 
And  this  mutual  irritation,  year  by  year  increasing,  was 
fanned  in  England  by  the  claim  of  the  Spanish  cruisers  to 
search  all  English  vessels  in  those  seas,  and  brought  to  a 
white  heat  by  an  incident  which,  though  occurring  some 
years  previously,  only  became  generally  known  in  Eng- 
land about  a  year  or  eighteen  months  before  the  declara- 
tion of  war. 

This  was  the  mutilation  of  an  English  sailor  (Jenkins 
by  name)  by  cutting  off  his  ear;  and  this  comparatively 
trivial  incident,  like  the  quarrel  for  the  possession  of  the 
key  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  in  1853,  had  the  gravest  possible 
results,  one  of  the  minor  ones  of  which  was  the  blockade 
of  the  Ligurian  coast,  the  subject  of  this  chapter.  The 
mutilation  took  place  in  the  Gulf  of  Florida  in  1731,  and 
for  seven  years  Captain  Jenkins,  with  liis  countrymen's 
tenacity,  kept  his  precious  relic  "  wrapped  up  in  cotton 
wool,"  showing  it  to  all  he  came  across  as  an  instance  of 
the  indignities  we  were  experiencing  at  the  hands  of 
Spain  and  her  cruisers.  "And  he,  a  peaceful  trader, 
too ! " 

Of  course  much  correspondence  took  place  between  the 
two  Governments :  conferences  were  held,  and  conventions, 
to  settle  the  above-mentioned  question  of  trading,  were 
prepared.  But  the  English  nation,  in  spite  of  Walpole, 
was  determined  upon  war ;  a  Committee  of  the  House  of 
Commons  was  appointed  to  go  into  the  whole  question, 
especially  the  alleged  cruelties.  Jenkins,  naturally  being 
called  before  it,  appeared  in  triumph  at  the  bar  of  the 
House  with  his  ear  in  his  hand,  and,  adds  Carlyle,  "gave 
a  graphic  account  of  his  sufferings." 


208 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


BRITLSH   OrERATIONS    IN   THE    18tH   CENTURY.       209 


Walpole's  obstinacy  was,  however,  great,  and  war  was 
not  finally  declared  until  November  1737,  but  then  amid 
great  rejoicings :  even  the  church  bells  being  rung,  which 
act  led  to  the  great  statesman's  bitter  remark,  *'  You  are 
ringing  your  bells  now ;  before  long  you  will  be  wringing 
your  hands ! "  With  the  varying  fortunes  of  the  war,  so 
far  as  the  expeditions  to  Soutli  America  are  concerned,  we 
have  nothing  to  do  here,  but  only  with  certain  operations 
in  the  Mediterranean,  which  are  interesting  to  recall  now 
that  the  Riviera  is  so  well  known,  physically  at  least,  to 
the  modern  English  traveller. 

The  English  fleet  in  the  Mediterranean  at  this  time  was 
under  the  command  of  Admiral  Haddock,  who  received 
orders  to  blockade  the  chief  ports  of  Spain  without  delay. 
But  the  death  of  Charles  of  Austria  in  the  foUowiog  year, 
and  the  general  scramble  that  took  place  immediately  for 
a  share  of  his  possessions,  gave  the  war  a  much  more  com- 
plicated character;  and,  so  far  as  the  south  of  Europe 
was  concerned,  divided  the  belligerents  into  two  parties- 
Spain,  with  France  as  a  secret  ally,  opposed  to  England 
and  the  King  of  Sardinia. 

The  relations  of  England  and  France,  however,  during 
the  earlier  years  of  this  long  struggle,  were  most  extra- 
ordinary ;  for,  though  we  were  actively  engaged  against 
each  other,  we  were  still  theoretically  at  peace !  a  state  of 
things  almost  as  difficult  to  understand  as  if  one  was  told 
'•  that  a  door  was  neither  shut  nor  open." 

It  18  true  that  a  powerful  English  fleet  blockaded  the 
French  coast  from  the  Var  to  the  mouths  of  the  Khone 
from  the  commencement  of  1740,  and  that  an  English 
army,  with  its  Dutch  and  Austrian  allies,  had  been 
manoeuvring    against    the   French    forces   in  Germany 


during  the  whole  of  1742 ;  it  is  true,  furtlier,  that  we 
fought  a  battle  against  the  French  in  tlie  following 
summer,  with  an  English  king  as  commander-in-chief,  and 
that  in  February  1744  the  blockading  fleet  just  mentioned 
engaged  the  French  and  Spanish  fleets  off  Toulon;  but 
yet,  strange  as  it  may  sound,  war  was  not  finally  declared 
by  France  against  England  until  a  month  later  than  the 
last-mentioned  encounter,  viz.  in  March  of  the  same  year ! 
A  pro2)os  to  which,  Carlyle  remarks,  "Not  yet  at  war 
then,  after  so  much  killing?"  Oh,  no!  reader,  mere 
"  allies  of  belligerents  hitherto !  " 

But  now,  to  turn  more  particularly  to  the  British  fleet, 
and  see  what  it  had  been  about  during  the  two  or  three 
previous  years,  when,  so  far  as  France  was  concerned,  war 
had  not  been  declared !  For  some  months  it  was  engaged 
in  the  dreary  work  of  keeping  the  Spanish  ports  blockaded, 
and  nothing  of  interest  is  to  be  found  in  its  proceedings. 
The  Spanish  Court,  or  the  Queen  Mother  rather,  who  was 
the  ruling  spirit,  was  anxious  enough  to  get  to  work,  and 
for  that  purpose  had  collected  15,000  men  at  Barcelona. 
But,  unfortunately  for  her,  though  the  ine^i  were  at 
Barcelona,  the  transports  and  Spanish  fleet  were  at  Cadiz, 
and  that  port  strictly  blockaded  by  a  powerful  British 
fleet,  still  under  the  command  of  Haddock.  So  for  some 
months  any  embarkation  was  impossible.  However,  about 
the  middle  of  October,  to  every  one's  great  surprise,  the 
English  Admiral  withdrew  the  blockading  fleet  to  Gib- 
raltar to  refit,  without,  strange  to  say,  leaving  a  single 
ship  to  watch  the  imprisoned  Spaniards.  Need  we  add, 
the  latter  seized  the  opportunity;  the  transports  and 
convoy  slipped  out  and  round  to  Barcelona ;  the  troops, 
assisted  hy  the  Freiich  (note  this  !)  were  speedily  embarked, 

P 


210 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


and  by  the  middle  of  December  landed  on  the  Genoese 
coast;*  the  English,  who  here  tnrned  up,  "feebly  op- 
posing." So  decided  a  step  at  once  compelled  Charles 
Emmanuel,  who  had  hitherto  temporised  with  both  parties, 
to  declare  openly  against  Spain ;  indeed,  Carlyle  states 
that  the  sudden  withdrawal  of  the  fleet  from  Cadiz  was 
believed  by  many  to  have  been  au  adroit  and  diplomatic 
act,  in  order  that,  by  allowing  the  Spanish  troops  to  land 
on  Italian  territory,  this  decision,  so  anxiously  desired, 
might  no  longer  be  delayed. 

However,  neither   witli    the  war    in   Lombardy   and 
Piedmont,  any  more  than   the  war  in  South  America, 
have  we  anything  to  do  ;  it  is  to  the  English  fleet,  now 
scattered  along  the  Provenqal  and  Ligurian  coast  and 
blockading,  or  rather  endeavouring  to  blockade  it,  to 
which  we  must  turn  our  attention.    And  even  here,  I 
must  leave  unnoticed  the  various  operations,  interesting 
as  many  were,  which  were  carried  out  during  this  period 
westward  of  the  Var ;  and  content  myself  with  noticing 
some  of  those  which  occurred  in  the  more  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood of  Bordighera,  soon  after  Admiral  Matthews' 

appointment. 

Matthews  appears  to  have  been  appointed  to  the  com- 
mand of  the  British  Mediterranean  fleet,  some  time 
prior  to  March  24th,  1742  ;  as  we  find  from  the  oflScial 
correspondence  of  the  Admiralty,  that  he  sailed  from 
Portsmouth  early  in  April,  in  the  flagship  mmwr,  to  take 
up  this  important  post.    The  new   commauder-in-chief 

•  Carlyle  especially  mentions  the  Genoese  coast ;  but,  as  we  find  not  long 
afterwards  an  army  of  20,000  Spaniards  at  Antibes,  and  no  mention  of  another 
at  any  other  place  on  the  coast,  it  is  difficult  not  to  believe  it  was  the  same. 
See  also  Matthews'  reply  to  Count  Cleerine,  when,  in  reference  to  the  same 
army,  he  says,  "part  of  which  m>  transported  in  French  vessels. 


I  L 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   THE    18TH   CENTURY.      211 

liad  evidently  been,  for  some  cause  or  other,  on  the  retired 
list,  for  in  the  letter  informing  Admiral  Haddock  of  his 
successor's  appointment,  it  is  stated  that  his  Majesty  has 
been  pleased  to  restore  Mr.  Matthews  to  his  rank  in  the 
Navy,  and  make  him  Vice- Admiral  of  the  Ked." 

Why  Matthews  was  chosen  for  a  position  as  difficult 
as  it  was  important,  where  an  able  diplomatist  was 
almost  more  necessary  than  a  gallant  sailor,  it  is  hard 
to  discover ;  perhaps  the  same  want  of  judgment  which 
gave  Vernon  the  command  of  a  powerful  fleet  and  sent 
Anson  away  with  three  small  vessels !  For  we  find  the 
new  commander,  from  the  very  first,  seems  to  take  a  de- 
sponding view  of  the  situation  and  the  insufficiency  of  the 
means  placed  at  his  disposal  for  the  end  in  view :  no  less 
indeed — as  we  read  from  his  instructions — than  **  to  destroy 
the  Spanish  Ships  and  Embarkations  (?)  and  the  combined 
Spanish  and  French  fleets,  when  they  can  be  met  with  ; 
and  to  assist,  protect  and  defend  the  States  and  Dominions 
in  Italy  belonging  to  the  Queen  of  Hungary  and  the 
Great  (sic)  Duke  (of  Tuscany),  his  Majesty's  allies."  As 
early  as  the  date  just  mentioned  (March  24th),  whilst  still 
in  London  and  probably  immediately  after  his  appointment, 
we  find  him  writing  the  first  of  his  long  series  of  entreating 
or  complaining  letters  to  "  My  Lords " ;  which  give  a 
painful  insight  into  the  mismanagement  of  the  Navy  at 
that  time,  and  I  fear  for  many  years  afterwards. 

After  the  usual  formula  of  his  desire,  to  the  utmost  of 
his  capacity,  to  execute  all  such  orders  as  his  grace  (the 
Duke  of  Newcastle)  judges  proper  to  honour  him  with, 
he  continues :  "  I  am  greatly  apprehensive  from  what  I 
know  of  the  condition  of  His  Majesty's  Squadron  in  the 
Mediterranean,  and  the  verry  (sic)  few  ships  at  present 

p  2 


212 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


designed  to  reinforce  it,  that  I  shall  not  be  able  to 
answer  His  Majesty's  expectations."  And  in  this  style, 
week  after  week,  our  poor  Admiral  continues  to  pour  the 
same  melancholy  tale  iuto  my  Lords'  unwilling  ears,  and 
apparently  with  hardly  any  results  whatever.  Indeed,  it 
half  of  what  Matthews  states  was  true  (and  I  shall,  later 
on,  give  some  particulars  of  his  complaints),  our  wonder  is, 
northat  he  did  so  little  on  the  Ligurian  coast,  but  that 

he  did  anything  at  all ! 

However,  in  spite  of  his  despondency,  ho  began  ener- 
getically enough,  by  strictly  blockading  the  coast  from 
Ventimiglia  westward,  and  so  capturing  and  preventing 
the  disembarkation  of  30O  French  troops,  who  were  on 
their  way  to  reinforce  the  French  garrison  at  Monaco ;  a 
proceeding  naturally  enough  objected  to  by  the  Com- 
mander of  King  Louis's  forces,  then  at  Antibes :   a  M. 
Cleerine,  who  takes  the  line,  as  one  might  expect  him 
to  do,  that  England  and   France  being  then  at  i^eace, 
the  act  was  a  most  unusual  one.    But  Matthews  is  ready 
with  his  reply,  that  though  what  M.  Cleerine  states  is 
perfectly  true,  the  acts  of  the  French  Government  are  not 
in  harmony  with  that  position— indeed,  are  most  opposed 
to  it ;  and  instances,  amongst  other  facts  of  a  suspicious 
nature,  that  at  that  moment  there  is  lying  at  Antibes  a 
Spanish  Army  of  20,000  men,  with  a  Prince  of  Spain,  Don 
Philip,  at  their  head,"  part  of  which  army  was  transported 
in  French  vessels,  as  also  the  necessaries  for  its  support." 
In  spite  of  which,  and  a  good  deal  more  all  bearing  on  the 
same  point,   the   English   Admiral,  with   great  fairness, 
offers  "  to  release  the  said  troops  if  it  can  be  proved  tliat 
they  are  not  in  the  pay  of  the  King  of  Spain  but  honafide 
those  of  the  King  of  France."    I    have   not  space  to 


BUITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   THE    18tH   CENTURA.       213 

give  any  extracts  from  the  lengthy  correspondence  which 
this  capture  brought  about,  but  it  ended  by  the  release  of 
the  troops,  some  days  later,  on  their  giving  their  j)aroZe  to 
return  to  Antibes ;  and  it  would  hardly  have  been  worth 
noticing  here,  except  as  another  illustration  of  the  peculiar 
relations  existing  at  that  time  between  the  two  countries. 
This  indeed  is  brought  out  very  strikingly  by  another 
incident  which  was  actually  taking  place,  whilst  the  Admiral 
and  the  Commandant  were  engaged  in  settling  the  question 
just  referred  to,  and  the  latter  expressing  his  horror  that 
such  a  breach  of  neutrality  should  have  occurred !  It  was 
the  news  of  the  safe  arrival  in  Toulon  of  thirty  French 
and  Catalan  vessels  (not  very  creditable  this  to  the  English 
blockading  squadron !)  "  with  cannon,  powder,  ball,  &c., 
and  barley  and  straw  for  the  Spanish  army  at  Antibes ; 
and  also  that  twelve  cannon  had  been  landed  at  Mar- 
seilles and  would  be  sent  hy  land  to  the  same  destination." 
— (Dispatch  to  the  DuJce  of  Newcastle) 

From  the  same  dispatch  we  also  gain  a  good  deal  of 
information  as  to  the  actual  state  of  affairs  on  the  coast 
and  the  situation  and  numbers  of  the  opposing  forces. 
The  Spaniards,  as  we  have  seen,  were  at  Antibes,  no  less 
than  20,000  strong,  and  endeavouring,  by  the  collection  of 
stores  at  that  place,  and  all  along  the  coast,  to  complete 
their  arrangements  for  a  move  into  Liguria.  The  French 
were  garrisoning  Monaco,  with  the  idea,  no  doubt,  of  cover- 
ing the  Spanish  advance  immediately  it  commenced ;  for 
Nice  was  still  held  by  the  Sardinian  troops  and  also  Villa 
Franca,  where  Admiral  Matthews  was  at  anchor  with  some 
of  his  ships.  This  last  place,  with  its  defences  in  decay 
and  an  inadequate  garrison,  was  in  daily  expectation  of  an 
attack  from  the  Spanish  advanced  guard.   Indeed,  so  grave 


214 


LOCAL   HISTOUY. 


\  f 


was  the  state  of  affairs  from  these  two  caua.  s,  that  tho 
Sardiuian  commander  begged  for  English  marines  to  assist 
him  in  the  expected  attack ;  and  Matthews,  fully  impressed 
with  the  danger  of  such  an  important  post  falling  into  the 
enemy's  hands,  not  only  supplied  him  with  twelve  small 
guns,  but  undertook  to  land  200  marines  from  the  fleet  to 

assist  in  working  them. 

The   admiral   refers  especially   to  the   importance  oi 
strengthening  the  Castle  of  Montalban,  which  covered  Ins 
anchorage,  and  which  •'  if  taken,"  he  adds,  «  would  compel 
me  to  quit  the  harbour  and  prove  of  very  bad  consequence.' 
But  he  evidently  has  but  a  poor  opinion  either  of  the 
sincerity  or  energy  of  his  Sardinian  ally,  for  he  concludes  a 
letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Admiralty  by  saying :    "  On 
the  whole,  I  do  not  find  the  Governor  has  any  inclination 
to  secure  the  harbour,  for  which  reason,  the  moment  the 
Spaniards  begin  their  march  from  Antibes,  I  shall  get 
under  sa»7  to  prevent  His  Majesty's  flag  being  aponted 
without  any  Probability  of  my  taking  Revenge ! "     An 
example  of  the  gallant  (?)  admiral's  discretion,  which  un- 
fortunately, a  few  years  later,  was  to  bring  him  to  grief  and 
dismissal  from  His  Majesty's  service.      We  can  hardly 
imagine  a  Nelson  or  CoUingwood  expressing  their  inten- 
tion of  getting  under  weigh  and  retiring  the  moment  the 
enemy    appeared   in   sight.     With   the   same  letter,   he 
encloses  a  list  of  ships  under  his  command ;  from  which  we 
gather  that  in  addition  to  his  own  flagship,  the  Namur, 
which  he  brought  out  from  England,  and  including  galleys 
and  fireships,  he  had  between  thirty  and  forty  vessels ; 
whilst  from  another  document  we  learn  that  the  Spanish 
and  French  fleets,  either  ready  or  fitting  for  sea  in  Toulon 
harbour,  amounted  to  thirty-two  vessels,  but  none  were 


' 


BBITISH  OPERATIONS  IN  THE   18tH  CENTURY.      215 

fitted  with   less  than   50  guns,  and  the  majority  were 
larger. 

However,  Matthews,  on  paper  at  least,  was  not  going  to 
let  the  Spaniards  have  an  uninterrupted  march  into  Sar- 
dinian territory  ;  and  turns  his  attention  seriously  to  endea- 
vour to  stop  them,  by  "  the  erection  of  works  in  the  passes 
behind  Villa  Franca,  especially  at  Turhia"  And  his  ener- 
getic remonstrances  appear  at  last  to  have  had  the  effect 
ofcorapelling  the  Sardinian  authorities  to  take  steps 
towards  erecting  fortifications  better  fitted  to  oppose  the 
Spanish  advance,  with  some  prospect  of  success,  than  those 
hitherto  existing;  for  we  find  the  admiral,  who  seems  never 
so  happy  as  when  writing  florid  accounts  of  his  proceed- 
ings to  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  informing  his  Grace,  on 
July  25,  that  he  had  left  four  detachments  of  soldiers,  who 
had  been  put  on  board  the  squadron  as  marines,  at  Villa 
Franca  and  made  all  the  necessary  dispositions  for  supply- 
the  batteries  at  Montalban,  for  defending  the  passes  to 
Villa  Franca,  and  the  important  post  of  La  Turhia,  "  the 
whole  being  under  the  command  of  Captain  Vincent  of 
the  Boyal  Oalc," 

Additional  orders  were  given,  that  all  Marines  were  to 
be  landed  in  case  of  necessity,  and  that  gunners  were  to 
be  sent  from  the  fleet  to  manage  the  sights  of  the  guns 
already  landed  and  placed  in  position  "  on  some  batteries 
which  I  had  prevailed  with  the  Governor-General  at  Nice 
to  be  erected,"  (not  very  cordial  co-operation  this)  "  and 
with  them  ammuuition,&e."  And  we  discover  immediately 
that  these  preparations  were  not  made  an  hour  too  soon, 
for  on  the  very  same  day  the  Spanish  General  at  Antibes, 
the  Count  of  Clunes,  sent  a  formal  notice  to  the  Sardinian 
Commander  at  Villa  Franca,  informing  him  that  he  had 


216 


LOCAL   IIISTOKY. 


received  orders  to  niarcli  into  Lombardy,  and  asking  for 
«  a  pass  tliroiigli  the  territories  of  the  King  of  Sardinia," 
and  offering  "to  pay  for  all  provisions  and  storage  in 
ready  money."     In  fact,  nothing  could  be  more  courteous 
than  the  entire  letter.     However,  we  may  infer  that  the 
Count  received  no  reply  to  his  cool  demand  or  a  decided 
negative,  for  the  forward  march  of  the  Spanish  forces  was 
for  the  moment  suspended.     Just  at  this  time  Admiral 
Matthews  writes  another  urgent  letter  to  the  Admiralty 
Board,  calling  attention  to  the  frightful  state  of  the  ships 
now  in  the  Mediterranean  ;  and  anything  more  disgraceful 
to  the  authorities  at  home,  or  unsatisfactory  to  the  officers 
in  command,  is  impossible  to  imagine.     I  wish  I  had  space 
to  transcribe  it  in  full,  for  it  is  a  picture  as  shameful  as 
humiliating.      Want  of    medical   stores,   and    want    of 
ordinary   stores,  and   as   a  consequence  the  ships  little 
better  than  fever  dens  ;  on  board  Vice-Admiral  Lestock's 
ship,  no  less  than  eighty  men  on  the  sick  list,  and  on 
others  not  far  short  of  a  third  of  their  crew  in  a  similar 
state.    The  ships  foul  and  dirty,  from  the  length  of  time 
they  had  been  cruising  off  the  coast,  some  barely  able  to 
beat  to  windward,  and  no  chance  of  sending  them  to  Port 
Mahon  to  refit,  owing  to  tlie  absence  of  fresh  vessels  from 
England  to  replace  them ;   the  gear  and  running  rigging 
(braces,  &c.)  so  worn  out,  that  to  keep  even  a  respectable 
squadron  cruising  off  Toulon  and  Nice,  the  Admiral  had 
to  denude  some  of  the  most  inefficient  of  the  little  they 
kad,  and  leave  them,  incapable  of  moving,  at  anchor  in 
one  of  the  securest  harbours  on  the  coast !  .  .  .  . 
But  let  us  return  to  the  preparations  at  Turbia. 
Those  who  have  driven  along  the  lliviera  by  Vetturino, 
and  remember  the  wonderful  curves  and  twists  of  the 


\ 


\ 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   THE    18tH   CENTURY.       217 

Cornice  Road  when  it  leaves  Nice  and  winds  upwards  to 
Turbia,  can  well  understand  what  a  strong  position  that 
village  might  be  made,  as  a  defence  to  the  country  behind ; 
and  how  the  passage  of  a   considerable  army  might  be 
barred  by  a  few  well-placed  batteries,  manned  by  highly 
organised  troops,  and  led  by  an  officer  capable  of  infect- 
ing   with   enthusiasm  those  under  his  command.      How 
much  stronger  then  must  have  been  this  position,  when 
instead  of  a  broad  and  wide  road,  as  now  exists,  there  was 
nothing  but  a  steep  and  rugged  mule-path,  which  only 
enabled  those  journeying  along  it  to  ascend  slowly,  and 
with  difficulty,  and  above  all,  in  single  file.     No  doubt  at 
this  date  (the  end  of  July),  the  Spanish  authorities  were 
making  the  greatest  efforts  to  move  their  troops  forward ; 
for  we  read  in  another  letter  from  Marseilles  (intercepted 
probably  in  a  vessel  attempting  to  run  the  blockade),  that 
a  large  number  of  mules  had  been  collected  for  baggage 
purposes  and  were  being  sent  down  to  the  headquarters  at 
Antibes.     Indeed,  as  a  preliminary,  a  portion  of  the  army 
was  moved  forward  to  Digne  and  Barcelonnette,  but  for 
sjme  cause  or  other,  either  from  want  of  transport  or  un- 
certainty as  to  the  support  they  would  receive  from  the 
French,  there  they  remained  for  some  weeks. 

The  chief  fear  which  seems  to  have  haunted  Matthews 
at  this  time,  was  that  the  united  French  and  Spanish  fleets 
would  suddenly  break  out  of  Toulon,  either  evade  or  crush 
his  blockading  squadron,  weakened  by  sickness  and  barely 
seaworthy,  and  transport  the  Spanish  troops  at  Antibes,  to 
Genoa,  or  some  other  point  on  the  Ligurian  coast  (Savona 
perhaps),  which  would  best  suit  the  latter's  purpose  of 
striking  at  the  Piedmontese  army.  And  so  in  pitiful 
iteration,  we  see  week  after  week,  entreating  letters  from 


218 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


the  English  admiral  to  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  for  more 
ships  of  all  sorts.  Ships  he  must  have,  if  he  is  to  carry 
out  the  programme  that  has  been  laid  down  for  him  in 
these  waters.  '*  I  again  acquaint  your  Grace,  that  the 
different  services  required  cannot  be  performed  with  the 
sliips  under  my  command  and  most  of  them  in  a  bad 
condition,  weakly  manned  and  sickly ;  and  that  keeping 
the  sea  both  winter  and  summer  must  inevitably  destroy 
both    ships  and  men;"  and   much   more  to   the   same 

effect. 

But  the  energetic  step  he  had  taken  in  landing  guns  and 
marines,  and  placing  Turbia  in  a  state  of  defence,  appears 
to  have  frightened  him ;  for  a  few  days  later,  he  withdrew 
them,  on  the  plea  that  the  "allied  fleets"  (i.  e.  of  France  and 
Spain)  "  were  really  moving  " ;  much  to  the  disgust,  we  may 
believe,  of  the  Sardinian  commander,  who  no  doubt  had 
felt  increased  hopefulness  in  delaying,  if  not  checking  the 
Spanish  advance,  when  an  addition  of  a  couple  of  hundred 
English  marines  and  a  detachment  of  naval  gunners  had 
been  added  to  his  little  force. 

It  was  at  this  moment,  when  poor  Matthews  seemed 
hardly  to  know  whirh  to  do  first  of  tlu^  many  things  expected 
of  him,  that  he  received  news  of  a  great  accumulation  of 
stores  of  various  kinds,  straw  and  grain  especially,  by 
Spanish  agents  at  Ventimiglia :  preparations,  in  fact,  for 
the  forward  marrh  of  that  army  into  Liguria.  The  letter 
which  ffave  the  information  was  a  peculiar  one ;  it  contained 
no  signature,  and  was  only  addressed,  **  Dearest  Uncle," 
and  besides  was  written  in  a  very  guarded  manner.  I  wish 
I  could  insert  it  here,  but  my  limited  space  prevents  my 
doing  so.  The  writer  began  by  stating  that  great  quantities 
of  straw,  &c.,  were  being  collected  in  the  town,  undoubtedly 
for  the  Spanish  cavalry,  and  evidently  sliowing  an  intention 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS  IN   THE    18tH   CENTURY.       219 

to  cross  the  river  at  that  point :  that  they  were  being  pur- 
chased  by  a  Genoese,  a  Signor  Montebruno,  and  by  a  citizen 
of  Ventimiglia,  "  from  the  country  inland,  and  along  the 
coast  as  far  as  San  Kemo,"  and  further  that  these  gentle- 
men "  have  also  been  taking  note  of  any  stores  of  straw 
belonging  to   private  houses,  in  order  to  seize  them  by 
force,°should  the  owners  refuse  to  sell  them,  which,  unless 
they  did  it  hj  order  of  the  Repuhlic,  would  be  utter  ruin  to 
them."     At  the  time  of  writing,  both  Signor  Montebruno 
and   his   colleague   were   away   at   San    Remo   for    this 
purpose,  and  were  expected  to  return  to  Ventimiglia  "  in 
five  days,  with  all  the  straw  and  forage  they  can  collect, 
some  of  which  I  understand "  (and  this  evidently  shocks 
him,)  "  has  even  been  brought  from  the  lands  and  castles 
of  H.M.  the  King  of  Sardinia." 

Apart  from  the  information  it  contained,  which  later  on 
was  proved  to  be  perfectly  correct,  the  letter  is  interesting 
as  corroborating  the  complaint  which  had  been  frequently 
made  by  the  English  admiral  that  the  Genoese  republic 
C*  unless  they  did  it  hy  the  order  of  the  Bepuhlic;')  and  the 
inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Liguria,  far  from  being  opposed 
to  the  Spaniards,  gave  them  help  and  information  when- 
ever possible;  and  a  couple  of  incidents  which  I  shall 
presently  quote  even  more  markedly  prove  it. 

The  anonymous  writer,  after  referring  to  the  great 
risks  he  runs  by  giving  this  intelligence,  which  again  shows 
the  direction  of  popular  sympathy,  asks  whether  the  straw, 
&c.  might  not  be  transported  to  Bordiguera  (sic)  or  San 
Remo,  and  some  given  to  a  M.  de  Bruel,  who  acted  both  as 
Dutch  and  English  consul,  and  was  living  at  the  latter 
town.  On  receipt  of  this  letter  the  English  Admiral  writes 
at  once  (as  I  infer  by  the  rest  of  the  correspondence),  to 
inform  the  Governor  of  Ventimiglia  of  what  was  going  on, 


220 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


and  tliat  such  proceedings  could  not  be  allowed ;  and 
somewliat  later— on  the  12tli  of  August— we  may  suppose, 
as  tliat  gentleman  pleaded  ignorance  of  the  facts  or  his  in- 
ability to  interfere,  sends  an  order  to  Capt.  Martin,  of  the 
"Ipswich,"  who  was  in  command  of  a  division  of  the 
blockading  fleet, "  to  make  arrangements  to  land  and  destroy 
all  such  collections  of  grain,  straw,  fodder,  &c.,  which  it 
could  be  shown  were  belonging  to  the  Spaniards  or  their 
agents  in  that  town." 

It  is  difficult  to  understand,  at  tliis  distance  of  time  and 
with  nothing  but  official  documents  to  fall  back  upon, 
why,  not  only  the  Genoese  Republic,  but  the  inhabitants  of 
the  Li^urian  coast  towns  were  partisans,  more  or  less 
markedly,  of  the  French  and  Spaniards,  and  opposed  to 
their  Italian  fellow  countrymen  and  their  English  allies. 
Yet  such  was  evidently  the  case  ;  and  the  few  facts  which 
are  incidentally  mentioned  having  reference  to  the  feel- 
ings and  behaviour  of  those  residing  in  towns  like  Venti- 
miglia  and  San  Remo,  or  even  in  villages  like  Bordighera, 
all  point  unmistakably  in  the  same  direction.  One  would 
have  thought  that  the  townsfolk  of  Ventimiglia  would 
have  been  singularly  indifferent  to  the  success  of  any  one  of 
tlie  four  belligerents,  for  they  at  least  had  suffered  at  tlie 
hands  of  each  ;  and  their  town,  during  the  past  three 
Imndred  years,  had  been  taken  and  sacked  by  the  French, 
Spaniards,  Sardinians  and  Genoese  in  turn.  Yet  now  these 
four,  or  three  at  least,  were  divided  into  two  opposite 
camps,  the  inhabitants  of  that  unfortunate  town  were  un- 
doubtedly in  favour  of  the  advancing  Spaniards,  aliens  as 
they  were  and  speaking  a  strange  tongue,  and  hostile  to 
the  Sardinian  and  Piedmontese  troops,  who  were  almost 
their  kinsfolk.     Two  incidents  I  may  cite  as  illustrating 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS    IN   THE    18tH    CENTURY.      221 

this,  both  occurring  within  the  next  week  or  so.     They  are 
mentioned  in  a  letter  addressed  to  Admiral  Matthews  by 
the  commander  of  a  frigate  cruising  off  this  part  of  the 
coast,  who  states  that  he  is   ''  sending  as  a  prisoner,  an 
English-speaking  barber  from  San  Remo,  who  has  brought 
news  to  the  English  authorities  of  the  continued  accumu- 
lation of  straw,  corn,  &e.,   at  Yentimiglia  by  the  Span- 
iards ;  "  from  which  we  can  only  infer  that  this  individual, 
anxious  to  assist  the  English  (perhaps  having  lived  in 
England,  as  he  spoke  that  language),  preferred  the  nominal 
position  of  a  prisoner  in  their  hands  to  returning  to  San 
Remo,   where   the   knowledge   that   he   had   given   this 
information  would  probably  be  dangerous  to  him.     Whilst 
in  conclusion.  Captain  Goodlake  (the  officer  in  question), 
has  also  to  report,  ''  that  the  loeoi)le  of  Bordighera  have 
quite  recently  warned  a  large  Spanish  roivhoat " — no  doubt, 
an  armed  galley—'*  and  so  saved  her  from  capture  hj  the 
English  blockading  squadron."     So  we  see  that  even  the 
fishermen  of  the  little  village  which  has  so  special  an  inter- 
est for  us  appear  to  have  held  decided  views  in  favour  of 
the  strangers  who  were  now  about  to  invade  their  territory. 
It  may  therefore  have  been  the  case,  that  the  English 
Admiral,  finding  how  general  was  this  feeling  along  the 
coast,  and  that  no  aid  but  rather  opposition  was  to  be 
expected  from  the   inhabitants,  determined   to   make  a 
demonstration,  for  the  double  purpose  of  showing  that  the 
Eno^lish  were  not   to  be  despised,  and  also  to  overawe 
those   whose   partisanship  for  the   Spaniards   was  daily 
more  openly  displayed.     For  we  find  that  a  formal  letter 
was  sent  to  the  Governor  of  Ventimiglia,*  ordering  him  at 

*  1  infer  that  there  must  have  been  some  previous  communication,  as  the 
letter  ordering  Captain  Martin  to  make  arrangements  for  landing  is  dated 
Aucrust  12th,  and  this  to  the  Governor  on  the  18th  of  the  same  month ! 


•immlltmm 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


once  to  destroy  all  stores  of  straw  and  grain,  and  threaten- 
ing that  if  it  was  not  done,  the  admiral  would  be  compelled 
to  land  and  do  it  himself ! 

Previous  to  this,  however,  not  having  gunboats  of  a  light 
draft  of  water — a  class  of  vessel  poor  Mattliews  has  been 
vainly  urging  the  English  Admiralty  to  send  out  to  him 
as  necessary  for  an  effective  blockade  of  the  shallower 
portions  of  the  coast — the  admiral  determines  to  buy  one 
of  the  large  armed  galleys,  which  appear  even  then  to 
have  been  common  tliroughout  the  Mediterranean.  So 
first  of  all  he  tries  to  purchase  from  the  Genoese  Kepublic, 
but  is  courteously  but  decidedly  refused ;  which  causes  him 
to  write  a  long  and  angry  dispatch  to  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle, complaining  of  the  great  favour  shown  by  that 
Republic  to  Spain,  and  its  hostile  attitude  to  himself  and 
those  under  him.  Then  he  appears  to  have  tried  at  the 
various  important  towns  along  the  coast,  and  finally 
obtains  what  he  is  seeking  from  a  Count  Eicardo  of 
Oneglia,  who  sells  him  a  "  row-boat "  as  it  is  called,  for  the 
sum  of  3334  livres  or  about  185Z.  She  was  no  doubt  a  large 
galley,  similar,  we  may  believe,  to  that  Spanish  one  which 
had  been  saved  from  capture  by  the  timely  warning  of  the 
Bordighera  fisher-folk.  Her  dimensions  were :  length 
56  feet,  breadth  1 1  feet ;  and  she  was  propelled  by  28 
large  oars,  *'  and  manned " — so  continues  the  dispatch 
announcing  the  particulars — *'  by  forty-nine  subjects  of  the 
King  of  Sardinia."  Perhaps  the  English  Admiral  had 
this  vessel  in  his  mind  when  he  decided  to  land  men  from 
the  fleet  and  destroy  the  magazines  of  straw,  &c.  for  she 
appears  to  have  been  delivered  only  a  few  days  before  his 
ultimatum  to  the  Governor.  And  as  Ventimiglia  was  a 
strongly  fortified  town,  he  might  have  hesitated  to  employ 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   THE    IStH   CENTUEY.      223 

the  small  boats  of  the  squadron  to  disembark  his  sailors 
and  marines  ;  as  in  the  event  of  the  garrison  opening  fire 
there  would  be  nothing  but  the  muskets  of  the  latter  with 
which  to  reply  to  them.  The  fleet  too,  owing  to  the 
shallowness  of  the  water,  would  not  probably  be  able  to 
cover  the  boats'  advance,  beyond  a  certain  distance. 

I  have  not  been  able  to  discover  if  any  reply  was  made 
to  Admiral  Matthews'  ultimatum ;  perhaps  the  Governor 
treated  it  with  silent  contempt ;  perhaps  his  position  was 
a  difficult  one,  and  he  thought  silence  the  safest  policy ; 
or  his  sympathies,  like  those  of  his  fellow  townsmen,  were 
in  favour  of  the  Spaniards.  But  if  any  reply  was  made, 
it  was  unsatisfactory :  for  on  the  31st  of  August,  nearly  a 
fortnight  later,  the  English  blockading  squadron,  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Martin,  in  the  "  Ipswich,"  appeared 
off  the  old  fortress,  which  had  had  so  many  and  varied 
experiences,  and  shortly  after  came  to  anchor.  The  men 
appointed,  "  with  an  officer  from  each  ship,  under  com- 
mand of  Captain  de  L' Angle"  (it  is  curious,  such  an 
unmistakably  French  name  occurring  at  this  juncture), 
were  embarked  on  board  the  new  galley,  which,  judging 
from  the  models  in  the  naval  museum  at  the  Louvre, 
would  carry  a  large  carronade  on  her  forecastle,  or  pos- 
sibly two.  The  view  at  this  moment  must  have  been  as 
striking  as  it  was  beautiful.  The  frigates  and  line-of- 
battle  ships  swinging  at  anchor,  probably  in  two  lines,  with 
their  lofty  spars  and  white  sails,  the  latter  still  hanging 
from  the  yards,  whilst  below  rows  of  black-muzzled  guns 
peered  through  the  open  ports,  the  long  galley  meantime 
moving  swiftly  toward  the  mouth  of  the  river,  with  its 
pointed  prow  and  graceful  lateen  rig;  and  its  tier  of  brightly- 
painted  oars  at  which  laboured  the  hardy  Sardinian  crew. 


I 


l',!' 


\ 


224 


LOCAL   HISTORY. 


In  tlie  after  part,  or  perhaps  mingled  amongst  the  rowers, 
the  marines  and  bliie-jaclvets,  and  the  little  knot  of  ofTicers 
grouped  together  on  tlie  raised  poop,  which  as  a  rule  these 
vessels  were  provided  with.  Jn  front  the  old  town  and 
fortress,  "compassed  by  the  everlasting  hills,'*  and  above 
and  below  the  deep  blue  of  a  Mediterranean  sky  and  sea : 
a  scene  which  all  those  who  have  visited  the  Riviera, 
and  this  spot  in  particular,  will  have  no  difficulty  in 

picturing. 

However,  to  the  surprise,  no  doubt,  of  all  on  board,— 
if  we  remember  the  hostile  feeling  of  the  inhabitants, 
—no  attempt  to  open  fire  was  made  on  the  advancing 
galley;   neither  did  the  garrison   oppose  their  landing, 
but  the  Governor— awed,  we  may  believe,  by  the  sight  of 
tlie  squadron  almost  within  gunshot— actually  sent  down 
some  officers  to  receive  them  and  to  point  out  where  the 
ma"-azines   were   situated.     Four,   containing   barley,   it 
appears,  were  entirely  destroyed,  and  tlieir  contents  ihnv;^ 
into  the  sea,  and  then  Cai)tain  K Angle  and  the  English 
officers,  under  the  same  guidance,  "  visited  every  part  of  the 
town,  and  had  all  private  magazines  opened  for  their  inspec- 
tion wherever  corn,  straw,  or  any  sort  of  grain  was  stored." 
It  is  not  stated  that  "the  inspection  concluded,   the 
whole  party  returned  to  the  Governor's  to  luncli,  and  that 
the  healths  of  His  Majesty  King  George  and  the  Doge  of 
Genoa  were  proposed  and  drunk  with  enthusiasm."    But, 
considering  the  courtesy  shown  throughout  by  the  latter's 
representative,  and  we  may  believe  reciprocated  by  the 
British  officers,  it  would   certainly  have  been  a  fitting 
conclusion  to  so  unique  a  proceeding.    The  officers  and 
men  then  re-embarked  (one  cannot  help  wondering,  by 
the  bye,  at  what  point  of  the  old  town  the  landing  and 


1 


BRITISH   OPERATIONS   IN   TIJE    18tH   CENTURY.      225 

embarkation  took  place),  the  ponderous  oars  of  the  galley 
once  more  moved,  and  they  are  before  long  on  board  their 
own  vessels ;  and  the  latter,  making  sail,  resume  once  more 
the  dreary  routine  of  a  blockading  squadron.  The  next 
morning  Captain  Martin  writes  a  brief  dispatch  to  Admiral 
Matthews,  headed,  "  H.M.  Frigate  *  Ipswich,'  in  the  Roads 
of  Araiche,  1st  September,  1742;"  which  the  Admiral 
weaves  into  one  of  his  long  and  melancholy  epistles  to  my 
Lords,  as  an  instance  of  the  vigour  and  energy  with 
which  he  is  prosecuting  hostilities. 

Such  then  are  the  details  of  this  very  unromantic  and 
harmless  operation,  where  no  life  w^as  lost,  where  no  gun 
even  was  fired,  but  which  local  tradition,  with  the  marvellous 
mngnifying  propensities  peculiar  to  it  all  over  the  world, 
now  refers  to  as  a  homlardment  and  a  sack  Well  indeed 
would  it  be  for  humanity,  if  every  sack  and  every  siege 
could  be  proved  to  rest  on  as  slender  a  basis,  to  have  been 
as  bloodless,  and  to  have  been  attended  with  as  little 
suffering  to  all  taking  part  in  it,  as  the  bombardment  and 
capture  of  Ventimiglia  by  Admiral  Matthews  in  1742. 

Two  other  facts,  though  not  actually  coming  under  the 
heading  of  this  chapter,  T  cannot  help  just  mentioning,  as 
being  of  interest  to  English  and  Scotch  readers.  The 
first  is,  that  it  is  almost  certain  that  Tobias  Smollett  was 
an  assistant-surgeon  on  board  this  identical  squadron ;  for 
Carlyle  speaks  of  him  as  being,  from  the  evidence  of 
his  own  books,  under  the  same  Captain  Martin  (then 
Commodore),  when  the  latter  appeared  off  Naples  with  his 
celebrated  ultimatum  a  little  later  on ;  whilst  there  is  no 
doubt  that  it  was  during  his  service  in  these  parts,  that  he 
was  finding  materials  for  those  wonderful  sketches  of  naval 
life  and  its  miseries  which  are  to  be  found  in  his  novels. 

Q 


226 


LOCAL  HISTOBY. 


CHRONOLOGY. 


227 


The  other  point  I  wished  to  notice  is  in  reference  to 
a  very  different  individual,  Charles  Edward,  the  young 
Pretender,  who  about  eighteen  months  later  embarked 
in  a  small  sailing  craft  at  Genoa,  under  the   name  of 
Count  di  Spinelli ;  and  having  in  some  wonderful  manner 
escaped  the    English    blockading   squadron,    landed    at 
Antibes  in  January  1744,  from  whence  he  hastened  to 
Paris     This  was    prior  to  the    attempted    invasion  of 
England  from  Dunkirk,  where  15,000  French  troops  were 
collected  under  Marshal  de  Saxe ;  an  invasion  which  was 
only  prevented  (the  troops  and  fleet  having  actualhj  started) 
by  a  very  violent  storm,  which  dispersed  the  fleet  of 
transports,  and  wrecked  many  of  the  vessels  of  which  it 
was  composed. 


B.C. 


CHAPTER  XVIIL 

CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE  OF   THE  HISTORY   OF   LIGURIA. 

In  this  table  the  events  which  especially  relate  to  the 
History  of  Bordighera  are  indicated  by  Norman  type  = 

Norman. 

A  certain  number  of  noteworthy  events,  but  rehiting  to 

other  countries,  are  indicated  in  small  capitals  =  small 
CAPITALS,  in  order  to  aid  the  reader  in  connecting  the 
history  of  Liguria  with  that  of  the  rest  of  Europe. 

The  Counts  and  Dukes  of  Savoy  and  Kings  of  Sardinia 
are  indicated  by  capitals  =  CAPITALS. 

536  Foundation  of  Nice,  according  to  some  by  a  Phocaean 

©migration  from  Corsica. 
534  Tarquin  the  Proud,  king  of  Kome. 


)j 


j» 


520  Return  of  the  Jews  to  Jerusalem  under  Esdras. 

480  Xkbxes  invades  Greece. 

350  Foundation  of  Nice,  according  to  other  authorities  by  the 

Phocacans  from  Marseilles. 
218  Second  Punic  War. 
210  Scipio  Africanus,  on  his  way  to  Spain,  puts  into  Portus 

HercuHs,  i.  e.  Monaco  or  Villa  Franca. 
204  Genoa  sacked  hy  the  Carthaginians. 

Mago  establishes  his  head-quarters  at  Savo  (Savona). 
Albingaunum  (Albenga)  attacked  by  the  Carthaginians. 
202  Genoa  rebuilt  by  the  Romans. 

200  War  waged  by  the  Romans  against  the  Ligurian  tribes. 
„     Appius  Claudius,   Consul,  builds   the   Castel  d'Appio  at 
Ventimiglia. 
163  Submission  of  the  Ligurians. 
146  Carthage  taken  by  the  Romans. 
118  Annexation  of  Liguria  as  a  Roman  Province. 
„    Probable  Opening  of  the  Aurelian  Way. 
102  Victory  of  Carbo  at  Aix  (Provence)  over  the  Cimbrcs  and 
Teutons. 
55  Julius  CiESAR  invades  Britain. 
49  Foundation  of  Frejus. 
31  Battle  of  Actium  (September  2). 

27  Augustus  receives  the  homage  of  the  Senate  and  the  title 
of  Emperor. 
The  Monument  of  Turbia  is  supposed  to  have  been  erected 

at  this  period. 
The  town  of   Cemenelium   increases   greatly   under   the 
a.d.     patronage  of  Augustus. 
54  Nero  grants  the  Jus   Latium  to  the  inhabitants  of  the 

Ligurian  Provinces. 
79  Destruction  of  PoMrEii  by  Mount  Vesuvius. 
400  Alaric  invades  Italy. 
405  Nice  destroyed  by  the  Goths. 

410  Probable  foundation  of  the  Abbey  of  Lerins  by  St.  Ilonorat. 
„     Sack  of  Rome  by  Alaric. 

411  Arrival  of  St.  Ampelio  at  the  Cape  of  Bordighera. 

<^  2 


)» 


n 


228 


LOCAL  HISTORY. 


428  Death  of  St.  AmpeUo  in  the  Hermitage  on  the 

Cape. 
448  The  Huns  under  Attila  invade  Italy. 
455  Taking  of  Rome  by  the  Vandals. 
481  Clovis,  King  of  France. 

568  Conquest  of  Italy  by  the  Lombards  under  Alboin. 
574  Cimiez  {Cemenelium)  destroyed  by  the  Lombards. 
578  Nice  grows  in  importance,  owing  to  tbe  immigration  of 

the  inhabitants  of  Cimiez. 
584  Nice  conquered  by  Chilbcrt,  King  of  France. 

617  Nice  joins  the  Genoese  league  against  the  Barbarians. 

618  Epidemic  of  leprosy  at  Nice. 
622  Era  of  the  Hegika. 

639  Nice  throws  off  the  yoke  of  France,  and  puts  herscit 

under  the  protection  of  Genoa. 
641  Destruction  of  Matuta  (San  Rome)  by  the  Lombards  under 

Rotharis. 
670  Arrival  of  Romulus  at  Matuta. 

Destruction  of  Genoa  by  the  Lombards. 
The  Saracens  commence  to  scour  the  Mediterranean. 
730  Destruction  of  the  Abbey  of  Lerins  by  the  Saracens. 
741  Nice  accepts  peaceably  French  authority  (annexation  to 

France). 
795  Genoa  taken  by  Charlemagne,  who  installs  Count  Ademar 

as  Governor. 

800  Coronation  of  Charlemagne  by  Pope  Leo  III. 

838  San  Romulus    (San    Remo)  taken    and   sacked   by   the 
Saracens. 

872  Alfred  the  Great,  King  of  England. 

879  Nice  transferred  to  the  rule  of  the  Counts  of  Aries. 

931  Genoa  ineffectually  besieged  by  the  Saracens. 

934  Genoa  and  San  Romulus  taken  and  sacked  by  the  Saracens. 

936  Genoa  again  sacked  by  the  same. 

954  Guy,  Count  of  Ventimiglia,  commencing  a  war  against 
the  Saracens,  and  desiring  to  secure  his  entry  to  Para- 
dise, bequeaths  the  Fief  of  Seborga  to  the  Abbey  of 
Lerins  (doubtful  fact). 


)» 


»» 


CHRONOLOGY. 


229 


a.d. 

958 

972 

1002 
1011 

1022 

1027 
1032 

1041 

1048 
1060 
lOGG 
1072 
1080 

1095 
j» 

1103 
1115 

1140 

1148 
1152 
1158 

1162 


1167 


Bcrenger  II.,  King  of  Italy  and  Aries,  allows  Genoa  the 

privilege  of  self-government. 
William,  Count  of  Provence,  drives  the  Saracens  from 

these  coasts. 
Henry  II.,  Emperor. 
Independent  municipalities  begin  to  spring  up  in  Provence, 

owing  to  the  indifference  of  the  Counts  of  Aries. 
Reconstruction  of  the  Abbey  of  Lerins  by  St.  Odilon, 

Abbe  of  Cluny. 
HUMBERT  I.  {WJiite  Hands),  first  Count  of  Savoy. 
Count  Conrad  of  Ventimiglia  cedes  his  rights  over  San 

Romulus  to  the  Bishopric  of  Genoa. 
Presentation  of  the  I\lonastery  of  St.  Michael  at  Venti- 
miglia by  Count  Otho  to  the  Abbey  of  Lerins. 
AMADEUS  I.,  Count  of  Savoy. 
AMADEUS  II.,  Count  of  Savoy. 
William  the  Conqueror,  King  of  England. 
HUMBERT  II.  {The  Strong),  Count  of  Savoy. 
Construction  of  the  Church  of  Monaco  by  the  inhabitants 

of  the  village  of  Turbia. 
The  First  Crusade. 
Great  prosperity  of  Genoa,  resulting  from  its  becoming 

the  point  of  departure  for  the  Crusaders. 
AMADEUS  III.,  Count  of  Savoy. 
Alliance  between  Nice  and  Pisa  against  Count  Raymond- 

Berenger  III.  of  Provence. 
Ventimiglia  besieged  and  taken  by  Genoa  and  her  allies. 
The  body  of  St.  Ampelio  removed  to  San  Remo. 
HUMBERT  III.  (The  Saint),  Count  of  Savoy. 
Frederick  Barbarossa,  Emperor. 

Genoa  preserves  her  independence  by  payment  of  an  in- 
demnity to  the  Emperor. 
Frederick  grants  Monaco  to  Genoa,  and  authorises  the 

Republic  to  occupy  all  the  coast  between  Monaco  and 

Porto  Venere. 
Alphonso  II.  of  Arragon  succeeds  Raymond-Berenger  III. 

of  Provence. 


230 


LOCAL  lUSTOriV. 


A.B. 

117G 

1185 

1186 

1188 
1190 
1191 

1215 

ft 


»> 


1219 

1226 
1228 
1230 

1232 
1233 

1238 

1246 

1251 

1253 
1258 

1263 


1266 
1268 
1285 


Alplionso  besieges  Nice,  wliich  capitulates,  but  retains  its 

liberties  by  the  payment  of  a  heavy  iudemuity. 
Civil   war   in  Ventimiglia :    sieges    of   Dolceacqua   an.l 

St.  Agnese. 
Siege  of  Ventimiglia  by  Count  Otbo  and  the  Genoese. 
THOMAS,  Count  of  Savoy. 
Henry  VI.,  Emperor  of  Germany. 
Henry  grants  Monaco  definitely  to  Genoa,  making  tlic 

latter  a  fief  of  tlie  empire. 
The  Genoese  take  possession  of  Monaco. 
Contest  between  the  Grimaldi  and  tbe  Si»iuoIa  family  for 

tbe  possession  of  Monaco,  wbicb  bad  become  a  robber 

Btrongbold. 
Genoa  baving  sought  to  subdue  Nice,  that  town  proclaiuiK 

its  independence. 
Revolt  of  Ventimiglia,  which  is  later  on  besieged  by 

Genoa,  and  captured  in  the  year  1221. 
Saint  Louis,  King  of  France. 
Nice  taken  by  Kaymond  IV.  of  Provence. 
Eaymond-Berenger  confirms  the  liberties 

commences  the  building  of  tbe  Castle. 
Guelf  league  directed  by  Genoa  against  Frederick  II. 
AMADEUS  IV.,  Count  of  Savoy. 
Savona,  Albenga,  Porto  Maurizio,  and  Ventimiglia  revolt 

at  the  instigation  of  Frederick. 
Marriage  of  Charles  of  Anjou  with  Princess  Beatrice  of 

Savoy,  and  union  of  their  dominions. 
Siege  of  Ventimiglia  by  Genoese,  and  rout  of  the  Venti- 

miglians  on  the  Cape  of  St.  Ampelio. 
BONIFACE,  Count  of  Savoy. 
Translation  of  the  ashes  of  St.  Ampelio  from  Sau 

Eemo  to  tbe  Church  of  St.  Stephen  at  Genoa. 
PIERRE  (sumamed   the  ''Little   Charlemagne"),   Count 

of  Savoy. 
Charles  of  Anjou  cedes  Ventimiglia  to  Genoa. 
PHILIP,  Count  of  Savoy. 
AMADEOS  V.  (sumamed  "  The  Grmt  "),  Count  (4Savi»y. 


of  Nice,  and 


CHRONOLOGY. 


231 


A.D. 

1297 

1306 
1308 
1310 

1311 

1323 
1329 
1330 
1338 
1343 

1348 
1350 
1383 

1388 

1391 
1402 

1409 


jj 


1410 


1436 
1440 
1453 

1461 
1465 


Sale  of  San  Remo  by  the  Archbishop  of  Genoa  to  Hubert 

D'Oria  and  George  De  Mari. 
Opizzino  Spinola  comes  into  power  at  Genoa. 
HENRY  VIL,  Emperor  of  Germany. 
Fall  of  Opizzino  Spinola,  followed  by  his  imprisonment 

in  the  Castle  of  Monaco. 
Visit  of  Henry  VII.  to  Genoa,  to  whom  is  granted  the 

supreme  authority  for  twenty  years. 
EDWARD,  surnamed  the  "  Liberal;'  Count  of  Savoy. 
AIMON,  surnamed  the  "  Peaceful;'  Count  of  Savoy. 
San  Remo  taken  by  Antonio  D'Oria. 
Charles  Grimaldi  takes  possession  of  Monaco. 
AMADEUS   VI.,    surnamed   the  ''Green  Count;'  Count 

of  Savoy. 
Great  Plague  at  Ventimiglia. 
Sale  of  San  Remo  to  Genoa  by  Antonio  D'Oria. 
AMADEUS  VII.,  sumamed  the  "Bed  Count;'  Count  of 

Savoy. 
Nice  places  herself  under  the  protection  of  Amadeus. 
Unsuccessful  siege  of  Ventimiglia  by  Amadeus. 
AMADEUS  VIII.,  Duke  of  Savoy. 
Nice  granted  absolutely  to  Amadeus  by   Louis  III.   of 

Anjou. 
Genoa,  under  the  protectorate  of  France,  revolts  against 

Charles  VI.    Amadeus  joins  with  the  latter,  offering  the 

"  County  "  of  Ventimiglia  in  exchange. 
Treaty  of  peace.     Charles  of  Anjou  renounces  his  pre- 
tensions to  Nice. 
Taking    of   Ventimiglia,    after  being   besieged    by   the 

Genoese  and  defended  by  the  French. 
Serious  outbreak  of  plague  in  Liguria. 
Birth  of  Christopher  Columbus  at  Cogoleto. 
LOUIS,  Count  of  Savoy. 
Constantinople  taken  by  the  Turks  :  end  of  the  Eastern 

Empire. 
Louis  XL  of  France. 
AMADEUS  IX.,  Duke  of  Savoy. 


A.D. 

1466 

1468 
1470 
1477 
1482 
1483 
1489 
1492 
1496 
1497 
1499 
1500 

1504 
1509 
1513 
1514 
1515 
1519 
1525 

1527 


1528 
1530 

1533 
1536 
1538 
1543 


1550 

1558 
1559 


IJK'AL    HISTOKY. 

Monaco,  held  by  Prioce  Laml>ert  of  (irimaldi,  is  besieged 

by  Sforza,  Duke  of  Milan. 
The  plague  again  commits  great  ravages. 
Foundation  of  Bordighera. 

PHILIBEKT  I.,  surnamed  tlie  *'  Hunter;'  Duke  of  Savoy. 
CHARLES  I.,  surnamed  the  "  Warrior^'  Duke  of  Savoy. 
Charles  VIII.,  King  of  France. 
CHARLES  IL,  Duke  of  Savoy. 
DiscovEEY  of  America. 
PHILIP  II.,  Duke  of  Savoy. 

PHILIBERT  II..  Duke  of  Savoy,  surnamed  The  Beautiful 
Renewed  outbreak  of  plague,  which  ravages  Liguria. 
The  Knights  of  St.  John,  about  this  time,  establish  them- 
selves at  Ospcdaletti. 
CHARLES  III.,  surnamed  Tfie  Good,  Duke  of  Savoy. 
Henry  VIII.  of  ExXGland. 
Leo  X.  elected  to  the  Papacy. 

Cession  of  Ventimiglia  to  the  Banco  di  San  Giorgio. 
Francis  L,  King  of  France. 
Charles  V.,  Emperor  of  Spain  and  Germany. 
Sack   of  Ventimiglia   by    the   troops   of  the   Constable 

de  Bourbon. 
The  Knights  of  St.  John  establish  themselves  at  Nice  and 
Villafranca,  by  treaty  with  Charles,  Duke  of  Savoy, 
in  order  to  exterminate  the  pimtes. 
Revolution  at  Genoa  headed  by  Andrea  Doria. 
Charles  V.  cedes  the  Island  of  Malta  to  the  Knights,  who 

retire  from  Villafmnea. 
EMMANUEL  PHILIBERT,  Duke  of  Savoy. 
Capture  of  Lerins  Islands  by  Andrea  Doria. 
Treaty  of  Nice  between  Charles  V.  and  Francis  I. 
Nice  besieged  by  the  Turks,  allied  with  Francis  I.,  under 
Hariadan  Barbarossa  and  the  Due  d'Enghien.    Episode 
of  Catharine  Segurane.     Nice  capitulates. 
Further  outbreaks  of  the  Plague. 
Elizabeth,  Queen  of  England. 

TltKATY  of  CaTEAU-CaMBRESIS. 


CHRONOLOGY. 


233 


A.D. 

15G4 
1576 

1580 

1581 

1585 
1586 

1589 
1600 

1) 
1617 

1625 
it 

1626 
1635 

1637 

1638 
1641 


1643 
1660 
1662 

1672 


Great  Eaithtj^uake  in  Liguria. 

Sale  of  the  princii)ality  of  Oneglia  by  Emmanuel-Philibert 
of  Savoy  to  the  D'Oria  family. 

CHAELES  EMMANUEL,  surnamed  The  Great,  Duke 
of  Savoy. 

The  Plague  renews  its  ravages. 

Sale  of  the  County  of  Tenda  by  Emmanuel-Philibert  to 
the  Lascari  family. 

SiXTUS  V.  elected  Pope. 

Sixtus  grants  to  the  Bresca  family  of  San  Remo 
the  privilege  of  furnishing  Palms  to  Rome. 

Henry  IV.,  King  of  France. 

Nice  is  ca^jtured  by  the  Proveu9aux  under  Guise. 

Commencement  of  the  Oratory  of  Saint  Bartho- 
lomew at  Bordighera. 

The  Bishop  (Spinola)  of  Ventimiglia  lays  the  first 
stone  of  the  Parish  Church  at  Bordighera. 

Charles  I.  of  England. 

Ventimiglia,  invested  by  Prince  Victor  of  Savoy,  capitu- 
lates in  April,  but  returns  to  the  jurisdiction  of  Genoa  in 
September. 

Charles  Emmanuel  grants  the  privilege  of  a  free  Port  to 
Nice. 

VICTOE  AMADEUS,  Duke  of  Savoy. 

The  Lerins  Islands  captured  by  the  Spaniards. 

FRANCIS  HYACINTH,  Duke  of  Savoy. 

CHARLES  EMMANUEL  IL,  Duke  of  Savoy. 

Monaco  accepts  the  Protectorate  of  France,  the  treaty 
being  signed  by  Louis  XIII.  ou  one  side,  and  the  Prin- 
cipality on  the  other. 

Louis  XIV.,  King  of  France. 

Charles  II.,  King  of  England. 

Genoa  repurchases  Ventimiglia  from  the  Bank  of  San 
Giorgio. 

Nice  declares  war  against  Genoa,  owing  to  the  construc- 
tion by  the  latter  power  of  a  road  from  Piedmont  to 
Oneulia. 


1 1 


231 

A.B, 

1675 
1683 

1686 


1696 
1697 

1705 
1706 
1713 

1714 
1715 
1720 

n 

1730 
1742 

II 

)» 

1744 

If 
1* 
1745 

1746 
i» 

»» 


LOCAL  HISTOItY. 

VICTOR  AMADEUS  II.,  Duke  of  Savoy. 
February  11.    Emancipation  of  the  Eight  Com- 
munes, which  fonned  the  Villce  Vintimilienses. 
April  30.    The  Community  of  the  Eight  Towns 

signs  its  act  of  federation. 
Suppression  of  the  Mint  of  Seborga  by  Louis  XIV. 
Siege  of  Nice  by  the  French  under  Catinat :  explosion  of 

magazine  and  taking  of  the  town. 
Treaty  of  Turin.     Nice  returns  to  the  Throne  of  Savoy 
Sale  of  Seborga  by   the  Abbey  of  Lerins  to  Victor 

Amadous  of  Savoy. 
Siege  of  Nice  by  the  French  under  hi  FeuiUade. 
Destruction  of  the  Castle  of  Nice  by  tlie  Duke  of  Berwick. 
Nice  evacuated  by  the  Proven^aux  under  the  Treaty  of 

Utrecht. 
George  I.,  King  of  England. 
Louis  XV.,  King  of  France. 
Victor  Amadeus  II.  exchanges  Sicily  for  Sardinia,  and 

takes  the  title  of  King  of  Sardinia. 
Great  outbreak  of  the  Plague  in  Marseilles  and  in  Pro- 
vence, but  not  crossing  the  Var. 
CHAKLES  EMMANUEL  III.,  King  of  Sardinia. 
Blockade  of  the  Ligurian  coast  by  the  English  Fleet,  and 

great  stores  of  grain  destroyed  by  them  at  Ventimiglia. 
Nice  captured  by  the  French. 
Monaco  occupied  by  the  Spaniards. 
Capture  of  Villa  Franca  by  French  and  Spaniards,  and 

retreat  of  Charles  Emmanuel. 
Ventimiglia  and  Porto  Maurizio  occupied  by  the  French. 
December  25.     Peace  of  Dresden. 
The  same  towns  occupied  by  the  Spaniards. 
Capture  of  Genoa  by  the  Troops  of  the  Queen  of  Hungary. 
Kevolt  of  Genoa  against  the  Austrians,  and  expulsion  of 

the  latter. 
The  Spaniards  evacuate  Nice. 


,. 


CHRONOLOGY. 


235 


A.D. 


1747  And  also  Ventimiglia. 

1748  Peace  of  Aix-la-Chapelle. 

„     Nice  restored  to  the  Kingdom  of  Sardinia. 
1750  Conversion  of  the  Tower  (avisiim)  of  Bordighera 
into  a  Belfry. 
„    Removal  of  the  Drawbridges  at  Bordighera. 

1773  VICTOR  AMADEUS  III.,  King  of  Sardinia. 

1774  Louis  XVI.,  King  of  France. 

1776  Declaration  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States 
of  America. 

1780  Opening  of  the  Porta  della  Maddalena  at  Bor- 
dighera. 

1783  Construction  of  the  Fountain  and  Aqueduct  at 
Bordighera. 

1792  September  21.     Abolition  of  the  Monarchy  in  France. 
„     September  30.     Occupation  of  Nice  by  the  French. 

1793  February   15.     Occupation  of  Ventimiglia,  and   succes- 

sively the  whole  of  Western  Liguria,  by  the  French. 
„     Annexation  of  the  Principality  of  Monaco  to  the  French 
Republic. 

1796  March  15.     Annexation  of  the  "  County  "  of  Nice  to  the 

French  Republic. 
„     CHARLES  EMMANUEL  IV.,  King  of  Sardinia. 

1797  Revolution  at  Genoa.  Proclamation  of  the  Ligurian 
Republic. 

May.     Siege  of  Genoa  by  the  English  Fleet,  and  occupa- 
tion of  Ventimiglia  by  the  Austrians. 

June  14.     Battle  of  Marengo.     Evacuation  of  Liguria  by 
the  Austrians. 
1802  Victor  Emmanuel  I.,  King  of  Sardinia. 

1804  May  20.     Proclamation  of  the  First  Empire. 
Commencement  of  the  Cornice  Road  between  Nice  and 

Mentone. 

1805  December  2.     Battle  of  Austerlitz. 

December  26.     Treaty  of  Presbourg.     Annexation  of  Li- 
guria to  the  French  Empire. 


»f 


»» 


236 

A.D. 

1810 
1814 

»» 
1817 

1821 
1823 

1828 
1830 
1831 

1832 

1837 
1846 
1848 
»» 

n 
»» 

1849 
»> 

1869 


It 


LOCAL   HISTOUY. 

Work  begun  on  tbe  road  between  Mentono  and  Genoa. 
April  13.    Abdication  of  Napoleon  at  Fontainebleau. 
May  30.     Treaty  of  Paris.    Incorporation  of  Liguria  with 

tlie  Kingdom  of  Sardinia. 
Treaty  of  protection  between  the  Principality  of  Monaco 

and  the  Sardinian  Government. 
March  16.     CHAKLES  FELIX,  King  of  Sardinia. 
Opening  ol  the  Cornice  Road  through  the  Canton 

of  Bordighera. 
Completion  of  the  Cornice  Road. 
Louis  Philippe,  King  of  the  Frcncli. 
CHAELES  ALBERT,  King  of  Sardinia. 

Earthquake  in  Liguria. 

Victoria,  Queen  of  England. 

Pius  IX.,  Pope. 

Fehruary.     Agitation  in  Italy. 

February  24.     Revolution  in  Paris. 

March  4.     Charles  Albert  grants  the  Constitution  of  the 

Sardinian  States. 
March  21.     Declaration  of  Independence  by  Mentuiic  and 

Roquebrune. 
March  23.     Charles  Albert  dcchircs  War  against  Austria. 
May  29.     Capture  of  Peschiera  by  Charles  Albert. 
July  25.     Defeat  of  Custoza. 
Aufnist  9.     Armistice  of  Salasco. 
Marcli  12.     Rupture  of  the  Armistice. 
March  23.     Great  defeat  at  No  vara,  and  abdication  of 

Charles  Albert. 
March  24.    VICTOR  EMMANUEL  IL,  King  of  Sardinia. 
June  30.     Entry  of  the  French  into  Rome. 
April  26.     War  between  France  and  Piedmont  against 

Austria. 
June  24.     Battle  of  Solferino. 
July  12.     Peace  of  Villa  Franca. 
J  une  12.     Annexation  of  the  "  County  "  of  Nice  and  Savoy 

to  France. 


CHRONOLOGY. 


237 


A.D. 

1861 
1866 
1867 

1870 


1873 


1878 


»» 


March  16.  Proclamation  of  the  Kingdom  of  Italy. 
January  1.  Publication  of  the  Italian  Civil  Code. 
Opening  of  the  Carriage-road  across  the  Cape  at 

Bordighera. 
September  4.     Fall  of  Napoleon  III.     Proclamation  of 

the  Republic  at  Paris. 
September  20.     Taking  of  Rome  by  the  Italians. 
Opening  of  the  Railway  between  Genoa  and  Ven- 

timiglia. 
January  9.     Death  of  Victor  Emmanuel  II. 
HUMBERT  I.,  King  of  Italy. 


M 


11 


(    238    ) 


PA  T?  T    Tir 
'■■II  Mill    JL-w     '-M.  -Ik.  JL-.  Ml  • 

THE   CLIMATE  OF  BOKDIGHEUA 
SCIENTIFICALLY  CONSIDERED. 


NORTH   AND   SOUTH. 


239 


it 


CHAPTER  T. 


NOETH   AND   SOUTH. 


»» 


Importance  of  a  scientific  study  of  climates— Tlie  siib-tropical  zone  of 
Europe — Principal  meteorological  diflcrenci  '  ween  the  Northern 
and  Southern  jjortions  of  the  Continent — System  to  be  followed  in 
the  comparison  of  climate. 

The  study  of  climate  lias  only  within  the  last  few  yen  is 
become  a  science.  At  the  commencement  of  the  century, 
invalids  from  the  north  of  Europe,  anxious  to  escnpe  the 
frosts  and  fogs  of  their  own  country,  had  alrciul y  begun  to 
migrate  south  and  to  winter  indifierently  anywhere,  when 
once  they  had  entered  the  region  of  the  orange  and 
olive :  a  region  to  whicli  certain  meteorologists  have  given 
the  name  of  the  suh-iropical  zone  of  Europe* 

But  in  the  present  day  physicians  are  not  content  with 
merely  ordering  their  patients  to  the  south,  but  go  so  far 

♦  The  northern  limit  of  this  zone  touches  our  continent  at  the  Pvrenn's, 
crosses  France  at  the  latitude  of  the  Departnunt  of  the  Drome.  turii>  to  the 
south  as  it  meets  the  Alps,  follows  the  erest  of  those  mountains  an.l  tlie 
Apennines  as  for  as  the  latitu*!"  f*"  Rome,  from  whence  it  stretches  nway  to 
the  Levant  ;  its  climate  is  eharavUii.Mvl  hy  drv  winters  ami  smiinins,  tlie  rain 
falling  almost  entirely  in  the  intermp<li;it.'  vM-..ns. 


as  to  specify  not  only  the  town,  but  even  that  quarter  of 
it  which  is  most  suited  to  different  maladies. 

This  elaborate  investigation  into  the  character  of  the 
climates  of  the  Kivieran  wintering-places  has  in  fact  become 
an  important  branch  of  modern  medicine,  but  as  a  science 
it  is  still  in  its  infancy,  and  its  present  position  far  from 
justifying  the  conclusions,  often  from  very  incomplete  data, 
whicli  its  professors  place  before  us.  So  w^ithout  disputing 
the  utility  of  medical  climatology,  it  is  impossible  not  to 
regret  the  subtile  distinctions  raised  betw^een  the  climates 
of  neighbouring  localities  and  the  rash  judgments  as  to 
their  effects  which  one  meets  with  in  certain  w^orks  of  this 
class. 

IMoreover,  the  authors  rarely  agree  with  each  other. 
Thus,  to  speak  only  of  the  place  to  which  I  am  especially 
referring,  we  read  in  one  of  these  works  that  "  the  climate 
of  Bordighera  is  drtj,  hracing,  and  stimulating ;  "  whilst  from 
another  author  we  learn  that  it  is  "  moist  and  enervating.^' 

These  absurd  contradictions  can  only  be  explained  by 
the  incomplete  and  insufficient  data  and  observations, 
upon  which  authors  too  frequently  found  their  con- 
clusions. The  exaggerated  praise  of  zealous  partisans, 
although  made  no  doubt  in  good  faith,  is  perhaps  more 
injurious  to  the  interests  of  the  locality  they  wish  to  serve 
than  they  have  any  idea  of.  There  is  nothing  indeed  so 
damaging  to  the  progress  of  any  place  desirous  of  attract- 
ing a  foreign  colony,  as  exaggeration  of  its  merits  and  the 
beneficial  effects  of  its  climate;  the  result  is  only  to 
disgust  those  who  have  been  tempted  to  visit  it,  and  to 
convince  its  injudicious  supporters  that  here,  as  elsewhere, 
falsehood  ever  harms  most  those  who  make  use  of  it. 
The  following  figures  will  give  an  idea  of  the  radical 


!i 


240 


METEOROLOGY. 


difference  which  exists  between  the  climates  of  the  north 
and  south  of  Europe.  The  mean  temperature  of  our 
region  during  the  six  winter  months  is  (Nice)  *  51°  2' 
Fahr.,  whilst  tliat  of  London  is  43°  Fahr.,  the  difference 
being  more  than  9°  1'  Fahr. 

The  mean  temperature  of  tlie  English  Cliannel  is  49^ 
Fahr. ;  that  of  the  Mediterranean  on  our  coast  57°  Fahr , 
a  difference  of  8°  Fahr. 

The  mean  of  the  rainfall  for  the  six  mouths  at  Nice  is 
20  inches ;  in  the  north  of  Europe  from  11  to  12  inches. 

From  this  we  see  that  there  is  a  greater  rainitiU  in 
these  parts  than  in  the  north,  but  on  the  otlier  hand  the 
number  of  wet  daijs  is  less ;  tlie  mean  at  Nice  being  only 
36,  but  in  Northern  Europe  it  is  from  90  to  100. 

But  to  appreciate  the  meteoroloirif^al  character  and  the 
medical  effects  of  any  one  of  these  places,  in  so  fiir  as  its 
climate  differs  from  those  of  its  neighbours,  it  is  necessary 
to  have  before  us  the  observations  of  a  considerable 
number  of  years  and  to  examine  the  results  obtained  by 
the  resident  physicians,  in  their  treatment  of  the  principal 
forms  of  illness,  during  many  winter  seasons.  But  we  are 
far  off  as  yet,  as  regards  meteorology,  at  least  in  the 
greater  number  of  our  winter  stations,  from  possessing 
the  necessary  elements  to  enable  us  to  apply  the  test  with 
any  satisfactory  result.  And  this  apjilies  to  Bordighera 
especially,  for  the  daily  variations  of  the  thermometer  have 
only  been  registered  there  for  the  last  seven  years,  neither 
did  a  rain-gauge  exist  prior  to  January  1st,  1879. 

It  is  therefore  impossible  at  present  to  offer  to  the 

♦  I  have  used  the  figures  of  Nice  for  the  general  comparison  of  the  southern 
climate  with  that  of  the  north,  as  it  is  the  only  place  on  the  coast  where  the 
means  hare  been  based  on  a  very  lon^^  sfvip^i  of  obsfrvntions. 


TEMPERATURE. 


241 


public  complete  and  authentic  information  as  to  the 
especial  features  which  distinguish  the  climate  of  this 
town.  All  that  we  can  do  is  to  state  the  facts  which  have 
been  observed,  and  to  indicate  to  a  certain  extent,  the 
conclusions  to  which  these  facts  would  seem  to  lead. 

And  it  is  to  this  point  I  have  endeavoured  to  confine 
myself  in  the  following  pages. 


CHAPTEK   II. 


TEMPERATURE. 


Observations  at  Bordighera  since  1876— Comparison  with  Nice,  Cannes, 
and  Mcntonc— Result  justified  by  the  configuration  of  the  coast- 
Summer  temperature— Effect  of  nocturnal  radiation. 

The  question  then  to  which  we  have  to  give  an  answer  is, 
*'Is  Bordighera  warmer  or  colder  in  winter  than  its 
neighbours  along  the  Eiviera  ?  '' 

The  answer  will  be  found,  so  far  as  it  is  possible  to  dis- 
cover it,  by  comparing  the  following  observations  of  the 
thermometer,  made  at  that  place,  with  those  obtained  at 
other  towns. 

Temperatures  of  the  winter  months  at  Bordighera, 
January,    February,    March,    October,    November,    and 

December : 

Maxima. 


Years. 

1876 

1877 
1878 
1879 
1880 
1881 
1882 


Fahr. 
80° 

75° 

84° 

75° 

78° 

80° 


TOO 


R 


i 


242  METEOROLOGY. 

Minima. 

Years.  Vahr. 

1876      ^^^ 

1877     ^^ 

1878     ^^l 

1879     ^^l 

1880  ..      ..      ^^l 

1881      ^^l 

1882     ^^° 

Mea^:- 
Years.                                                                        _   _ 
1870 '- 

rio 

1877     ^\ 

1878     •'      '•     ^^° 

1879      ^^^ 

1880     ^^° 

1881     •      ••      ••     "^^ 

1882     _^ 

General  mean        52° 

But  if  we  compare  these  meaDS  witli  a  table  of  the 

winter  temperatures  of  Cannes,  Nice,  and  Mentone,  given 

by  Dr.  Sparks  in  his  work  on  *  The  Kiviera,'  we  find  as  a 

result  that  the  mean  temperature  of  the  winter  season  at 

Bordighera  is  practically  identical  with  that  of  Nice,  lower 

by  nearly  one  degree  Fahr.  than  that  of  Cannes,  and  by 

nearly  one  degree  and  three  quarters  Fahr.  than  that  of 

Mentone,  which  is  the  highest  of  all    But  on  examining 

the  details  of  the  table,  we  discover  a  somewhat  dififerent 

result,  viz.  that  Bordighera  is  warmer  than  her  neighbours 

in   mid-winter,   but   cooler  in  the   spring  and   autumn. 

Practically,  the  highest  means  are,  for 

November     )      ^^      ^^     Mentone. 
December     ) 

January       )      ^^      ^^     Bordighera. 
February      j 

Marcb  \     ^      ,,     Mentone. 

April  J 


TEMPERATURE. 


243 


On  the  other  hand,  the  lowest  means  are : 


November 

Docci  liber 

Januiiry 

Fel)ruary 

March 

April 


1 

I 


Bordighera. 


Nice. 


Bordighera. 


These  n^sults  bring  us  to  the  conclusion  that  taking  one 
thing  with  another,  the  climate  of  Bordighera  does  not  differ 
sensibly,  so  far  as  its  temperature  is  concerned,  from  those 
of  the  towns  on  the  French  coast,  except  in  the  fact  that 
it  is  more  equable  :  that  is  to  say  (but  only  in  insignificant 
proportions,  however),  it  is  probably  somewhat  warmer  in 
winter  and  cooler  in  summer. 

The  configuration  of  the  coast  also  bears  out  this 
opinion.  Islands,  it  is  well  known,  have  generally  a  more 
equable  climate  than  the  interior  of  continents ;  that  is  to 
say,  the  extreme  temperatures  of  winter  and  summer  differ 
less  from  the  general  mean  of  the  year. 

Now  the  projecting  position  of  Bordighera,  the  unusual 
depth  of  the  sea  close  in  shore,  and  the  complete  shelter 
it  receives  from  the  mountains,  constitute  almost  an 
insular  situation  compared  with  that  of  Nice,  Cannes, 
and  Mentone,  which  are  placed  in  bays,  where  the  sea  is 
much  shallower,  and  which,  owing  to  their  wide  valleys, 
are  exposed  to  the  influence  of  strong  inland  winds, 
blowing  direct  from  the  snowy  mountains. 

The  materials  are  not  at  hand  to  enable  us  to  compare, 
with  any  satisfactory  result,  the  summer  temperatures  of 
Bordighera  with  those  of  the  neighbouring  towns;  but 
below  are  given  those  of  our  little  town  for  the  last  seven 
years,  from  May  to  September : 

R  2 


244 


TEMPERATURE. 


245 


METEOROLOGY. 

Years,,. 
1876 

Maxima  . 

Fatir, 
..     84° 

1,877 

..     89° 

1878 

..     86° 

1879 

. .     93° 

1880 

..     89° 

ISSl 

. .      . .      . .      •  ■      . . 

..     87° 

1^^:: 

..     87° 

Ib.b 

Minima, 

Frthr. 

..      48° 

1877 

..     44° 

1878 

. .     50° 

1870 

..      41° 

1880 

..       18° 

1881 

. .      53° 

1882 

..     48° 

Years. 
1876 

Me,' 

Fahr. 

..     67° 

1877 

..     69° 

1878 

..     71° 

1879 

. .      flS  •  5° 

1880 

..      08*5° 

1881 

..      68° 

1882 

Geoeral  mean 

..      68° 

..      68-5° 

I  cannot  leaye  this  subject  of  temperature  without 
saying  a  word  as  to  the  remarkable  phenomena  which  are 
occasioned  by  radiation  during  the  still  nights  of  winter. 

Not  unfrequently  I  have  been  asked  tlie  following 
question : 

"  How  do  you  explain  the  fact,  tliat  often  on  a  day  when  your 
minimum  lias  shown  three,  four,  or  even  five  degrees  above  freezing, 
any  one  going  out  early  enough  would  find  tlie  hoar  frost  on  the  grass 
and  ice  on  the  little  puddles  and  pools  of  water  ?  " 


I  answer : 


"  The  minima  which  I  register  are  marked  by  a  themiometer  placed 
under  the  roof  of  a  Belvedere  about  fifty  feet  from  the  ground,  but 
o]»eu  to  the  north  and  exposed  to  winds  from  every  quarter.  Now  the 
temperatures  which  affect  a  thermometer  under  these  circumstances 
are  necessarily  very  different  from  those  registered  by  one  placed  on 
the  crrass  and  under  the  influence  of  the  nocturnal  radiation  ;  and  it  is 
the  former,  and  not  the  latter,  which  it  is  necessary  to  observe  to  gain  a 
true  idea  of  the  climate." 

And  tliis  is  the  reason :  a  thermometer  placed  on  the 
grass,  and  unprotected  by  any  covering,  such  as  a  roof  or 
the  boughs  of  a  tree,  receives  tlie  full  effects  of  the  direct 
radiation  between  earth  and  sky,  and  the  following  pheno- 
mena take  place.  Hardly  has  the  sun  set,  than  the  heat 
which  its  rays  have  thrown  out  in  the  atmosphere  dis- 
perses itself  in  space.  This  sudden  chill  immediately 
causes  the  condensation  of  the  watery  vapours  existing  in 
the  air,  which  fall  to  the  earth's  surface  in  the  form  of 
dew.  During  this  process  the  temperature  on  the  grass 
falls  considerably,  and  in  a  few  minutes  it  attains  almost 
the  minimum  which  will  be  marked  during  the  whole  of 
the  night  by  the  thermometer  in  the  Belvedere. 

But  now  that  the  first  and  chief  fall  of  dew  has  taken 
place,  the  radiation  from  the  heat  which  has  penetrated 
the  earth's  surface  during  the  past  day  begins  to  make 
itself  felt,  and  the  temperature,  still  on  the  grass,  rises 
several  degrees.  This  state  of  things  lasts  for  some  hours ; 
but  little  by  little  the  provision  of  heat  existing  below  the 
surface  becomes  exhausted,  and  the  temperature  in  conse- 
quence sinks  once  more.  This  decrease  of  temperature 
continues  steadily  until  sunrise  ;  that  is,  until  the  moment 
when  the  sun's  rays,  striking  the  atmosphere  transversely, 
begin  to  spread  heat  through  the  air.     The  result  of  these 


i» 


t'L 


246 


METEOROLOGY. 


alternations  being  that  the  night  gives  us  two  minima 
temperatures :  one  early  in  the  evening,  about  an  hour 
after  sunset ;  and  a  second,  which  is  the  true  minimum  of 
the  night,  in  the  early  morning,  about  an  hour  before 

sunrise. 

But  these  extreme  temperatures,  taken  on  the  grass 
bathed  in  dew,  have  but  little  influence  on  human  beings, 
and  are  therefore  without  interest  to  our  winter  visitors. 

Tlie  sudden  cold  in  the  early  morning,  however,  is  but 
a   passing  and   limited   phenomenon.     To  take   it   into 
account  in  observations  especially  prepared  to  give  a  true 
idea  of  our  climate,  would  be  but  to  lead  the  reader  into 
error ;  for  this  temperature  is  never  experienced  by  those 
who  enter  their  houses  at  ten  or  eleven  at  night,  neither 
can  it  penetrate  their  windows  and  reach  them  in  their 
apartment.    Eaise  yourself  ten  or  fifteen  feet  from  the 
ground,  or  place  yourself  against  the  wall  of  a  house,  and 
this  sudden  chill  will  have  no  effect  upon  you ;  there  the 
first  minimum  of  the  evening,  of  which  I  have  already 
spoken,  remains  perceptibly  the  whole  of  the  night.    It  is 
this  minimum,  then,  which  it  is  necessary  for  us  to  register 
when  commencing  our  observations ;  the  other  may  offer 
a  certain  amount  of  interest  to  the  horticulturist  and  the 
florist,  but  only  to  them,  and  has  no  bearing  whatever  on 
the  climate  of  a  wintering  place  medically  considered. 
However,  this  sudden  fall  of  temperature,  which,  I  may 
add,  never  takes  place  unless  the  weather  is  extremely 
fine,  is  not  without  its  advantages:  it  is  the  forerunner 
and  infallible  sign  of  a  warm  and  beautiful  day. 

The  Meteorological  Congress  has  laid  down  a  rule  that 
the  position  for  a  thermometer  is  under  the  shelter  of  a 
louvre-screened  cage,  about  four  f*ei  from  the  ground. 


TEMPERATURE. 


247 


m 


But  we  must  not  forget  that  this  rule  has  only  been 
established  for  a  purely  scientific  end,  and  has  nothing 
whatever  to  do  with  giving  an  approximate  idea  of  the 
climate  of  a  place ;  and,  for  the  reasons  given  above,  I 
think  my  observations,  from  a  practical  point  of  v?ew, 
more  useful  than  those  taken  so  near  the  ground.  How- 
ever, in  order  to  conform  to  this  rule,  and  place  my  obser- 
vations for  the  future  on.  exactly  the  same  basis  as  those 
of  the  neighbouring  towns,  I  intend  shortly  putting  up  a 
second  thermometer  in  the  position  laid  down   by  the 


congress. 


Next  to  the  radiation,  the  land  wind,  or  wind  blowing 
from  the  mountains,  is  the  chief  factor  in  the  low  night 
temperature.  The  irregular  variations  registered  by  ther- 
mometers placed  in  elevated  situations  are,  without  doubt, 
due  to  its  presence,  its  temperature,  or  its  absence.  Blow- 
ino^  in  a  strai^iht  line  from  the  mountains,  it  brings  with  it 
the  temperature  which  prevails  there ;  and  this  fact,  more 
than  any  other,  explains  tlie  capricious  variableness  which 
our  winters  frequently  present  from  one  year  to  another, 
and  also  between  one  place  and  another. 

The  Alps  act  as  a  complete  barrier  between  our  meteor- 
oloo-ical  zone  and  that  which  lies  immediately  to  the 
north  ;  consequently,  we  are  but  very  slightly  influenced  by 
the  state  of  the  weather  in  the  plains  of  Northern  Italy. 
But  we  are  affected,  at  night,  by  the  land  wind,  blowing 
southwards  from  the  mountains.  For  the  snow  falls  very 
irregularly  each  winter  along  the  coast.  One  season, 
perhaps  there  may  be  enormous  masses  to  the  north  of 
Mentone,  and  little  on  the  mountains  behind  Bordighera, 
or  vice  versa,  and  the  winds  blowing  from  thence  south- 
wards will  be  more  or  less  cold  in  consequence. 


\i 


248 


METEOIIOLOGY. 


CHAPTER  III. 


RAINFALL. 


Difference  of  rainfall  in  tlie  same  district— Conclusion  suggested  by 
the  position  of  Bordighera— Statistics  of  rainfall— Comparisons  with 
other  towns— Influence  of  the  various  winds  on  rain 'all — Character 
of  rains — The  Baroineter. 

The  quantity  of  rain  which  falls  during  the  year  on  the 
surface  of  the  globe  varies  according  to  latitude ;  its  maxi- 
mum is  oil  the  equator,  and  it  decreases  towards  the  pole ; 
but  the  number  of  rainy  days  is  in  an  inverse  proportion. 

But  this  rule  is  subject  to  important  exceptions. 

The  nature  and  physical  configuration  of  the  district, 
its  elevation  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  the  nature  of 
the  prevailing  winds,  are  causes  which  have  an  important 
and  modifying  effect  on  the  question  of  rainfall.  Thus,  in 
the  tropical  zone,  we  find  every  possible  variation  in  the 
amount  of  rain  received  during  the  year,  from  zero  on  the 
western  face  of  the  Cordilleras,  up  to  a  total  of  48  feet  in 
certain  portions  of  Hindostan. 

There  is  therefore  nothing  astonishing  that  our  own 
district,  varied  in  character  as  it  is,  should  oifer  some  re- 
markable differences  as  regards  its  annual  rainfall,  even 
indeed  between  those  places  which  are  closely  adjacent  to 
each  other. 

The  position  of  Bordighera,  however,  is  of  a  nature 
to  lead  us  to  infer  that  it  would  liave  a  somewhat  smaller 
rainfall  than  other  places  on  the  coast. 

A  headland  projecting  into  the  sea,  not  only  far  beyond 
the  general  line  of  the  coast,  but  more  than  any  other 


BAINFALL. 


249 


cape  in  Liguria,  with  a  massive  mountain  range  rising 
northwards,  unpierced  by  any  broad  valley,  ought  neces- 
sarily to  offer  a  situation  far  more  sheltered  from  cold  and 
frequent  rains  than  those  towns  situated  at  the  mouths  of 
deep  valleys  like  Nice  and  Mentone. 

This  hypothesis  is  probably  true,  so  far  at  least  as 
regards  those  rains  brought  by  the  winds  from  the  interior, 
but  it  is  not  possible  at  present  to  say  anything  definite  on 
this  point.  Observations  as  to  rainfall  having  only  been 
made  at  Bordighera  since  January  1,  1879,  it  is  difficult 
to  give  any  trustworthy  mean. 

Below  I  append  a  summary  of  these  observations : 


Year?. 

1879 

1881 
1882 


Inches. 

371 

20| 

29| 
301 


Total  for  4  years 
Mean 


118f 
29| 


The  yearly  mean  of  Genoa  is  52  inches,  that  of  Nice 
32  inches,  and  that  of  Hyeres  29 1  inches. 

Now  Genoa,  owing  to  its  position  at  the  junction  of  the 
two  broad  valleys  of  Polcevera  and  Bisagno,  which  run  up 
to  the  very  crest  of  the  Apennines,  is  much  more  exposed 
to  the  action  of  the  mountain  winds  than  Nice,  which 
again  is  much  more  exposed  than  Hyeres. 

These  observations  tend  then  to  establish  the  position 
that  Bordighera,  thanks  to  the  solid  mountain  range 
sheltering  it  from  the  north  and  its  projecting  situation, 
receives  less  rain  than  its  neighbours  on  the  coast.  It 
will,  however,  only  be  possible  to  settle  this  question  with 


11 


250 


METEOROLOGY. 


any  degree  of  certainty  when  we  are  in  possession  of  the 
means  for  a  considerable  number  of  years. 

I  am  sorry  that  I  am  unable  to  give  the  means  for 
Cannes,  Mentone,  and  Siin  Remo,  but  observations  have 
not  been  carried  out  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time  in 
those  localities  to  make  it  worth  while  to  do  so.  I  may 
add,  however,  in  support  of  the  position  taken  up,  that  the 
rainfall  at  Mentone  during  the  year  1879  amounted  to 
38J  inches,  and  at  Bordighera  to  STJ  inches :  thus  showing 
that  even  during  this  period  of  excessive  rain  we  had  less 
by  I  inch  than  a  place  barely  nine  miles  distant. 

This  reasoning,  based  on  a  comparison  of  the  observa- 
tions made  at  Bordighera  with  those  of  tlie  winter  resorts 
near  it,  appears  at  first  siglit  to  be  upset  by  the  fact  that 
the  rainfall  at  Nice  during  the  same  year  was  only 
32tif  inches ;  in  other  words,  Sflj  inches  less  than  fell  at 
the  former  place. 

But  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  mean  of  Nice  is 
32  inches,  and  that  consequently  the  increase  fur  the  year 
referred  to  was  but  of  insignificant  proportions.  A  rainfall 
80  much  above  the  average,  tlien,  both  at  Bordighera  and 
Mentone,  must  have  had  an  explanation,  and  we  have  no 
difficulty  in  finding  it.  It  was  caused  by  the  violent 
storms  of  rain  which  those  towns  received  from  the  west 
and  south-west;  and  as  the  continuous  rains  from  the 
mountains  failed,  it  is  easy  to  understand  that  no  increase 
took  place  at  Nice ;  for  the  heavy  rain-squalls  have  a  ten- 
dency to  pass  seawards  of  tliat  place,  leaving  it  to  be 
influenced  only  by  the  mountains  behind  it. 

The  fine  and  persistent  rains,  giving  but  a  small  amount 
of  water,  but  continuing  for  a  lengthened  period,  which 
cliaracterise  the  climates  of  northern  and  central  Europe, 


EAINFALL. 


251 


are  rare  in  this  district ;  for  ours  are  of  a  tropical  nature, 
and  were  especially  so  in  1879 ;  the  great  excess  for  that 
year  proceeding  entirely  from  violent  and  extraordinary 
rain-storms  from  the  south-west.  As  an  instance,  I  may 
mention  one  which  took  place  about  sunrise  on  the  26th 
of  September  in  that  year,  and  broke  over  the  district  of 
Bordighera,  when  nearly  an  inch  and  a  quarter fellin  less 
than  an  hour  I  This  was  the  heaviest  rainfall  of  the  year, 
but  it  was  almost  equalled  by  several  heavy  showers  in  the 
month  of  April. 

As  to  the  direction  and  character  of  the  various  rains 
which  fall  on  this  part  of  the  coast,  we  may  divide  them 
into  three  classes,  as  follows : 

1.  Fine  rains,  but  of  long  duration,  and  with  tempera- 
ture varying  from  35°  to  45°  Fahr. ;  these  are  generally 
brought  by  a  light  wind  from  the  north,  although  the 
upper  current  is  generally  from  north-east.  These  rains 
sometimes  change  into  snow ;  they  last  for  some  days,  and 
visit  us  perhaps  two  or  three  times  during  the  winter, 
during  the  months  of  November,  December,  January,  and 
February. 

2.  Eciins  of  a  heavier  character  than  the  foregoing,  but 
of  equal  duration  ;  their  temperature  is  somewhat  higher, 
and  they  come  with  strong  and  moderate  winds  from  the 
east.  They  are  experienced  at  all  periods  of  the  year, 
except  the  height  of  summer. 

3.  Violent  showers,  but  quickly  over,  often  accompanied 
with  thunder  and  lightning,  and  changing  frequently  into 
hail ;  these  are  brought  to  our  coast  by  squalls  from  the 
west  and  south-west,  and  chiefly  take  place  in  spring  and 
autumn — September,  October,  March,  and  April — rarely 
in  the  winter,  never  in  the  middle  of  the  summer. 


252 


METEOROLOGY. 


Snow  seldom  visits  Bordighera,  and  its  fall  is  generally 
followed  by  a  sudden  clearing  of  the  sky,  during  wliicli  it 
rapidly  melts. 

The  observations  of  the  barometer  offer  but  little  in- 
terest in  reports.  It  is  very  important,  however,  to 
remember  that  the  barometer  does  not  occupy  the  same 
position  as  a  weather  guide  in  these  regions  as  in  the 
north ;  its  variations  are  not  only  much  less  in  the  south 
than  the  north,  but  appear  to  have  little  to  do  with 
meteorological  phenomena.  Here  it  may  rain  when  the 
barometer  is  very  higli,  and  has  not  fallen  a  single  fraction  ; 
and  on  the  other  hand,  during  our  long  periods  of  fine 
weather,  the  barometer  will  fall  considerably  and  rise 
again,  without  a  cloud  showing  itself  on  the  horizon. 

The  thermometer,  then,  furnishes  us  with  surer  indica- 
tions of  a  cliaiige  in  tlie  weather,  at  least  during  the 
settled  periods  of  the  summer  and  winter;  for  a  sudden 
rise  of  temperature  in  winter,  and  a  sudden  fall  in 
summer,  are  certain  signs  of  approaching  rain. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


WINDS. 

Tlie  iiiviilid's  (^featcst  tneniy — xVveriige  niiiiiljer  of  days  of  violent 
wind — Tlie  Mkind — The  true  /-  ^'  -  '"  and  the  Genoese  tramoittfUKi 
The  Schvcco — The  L/'hfCch—'l'lix:  >ra  breeze — Lund  winds. 

If  the  position  of  Bordighera,  with  regard  to  tlie  sea  and 
the  mountains,  leads  us  ()  priori  to  the  conclusion  that  it 
receives  less  rain  than  either  Nice  or  Mentone,  does  not 
that  position,  from  its  very  nature,  cause  it  to  suffer  more 


WINDS. 


253 


acutely  from  winds  of  a  violent  character  than  those 
places  situated  in  deep  bays  and  protected  by  lofty 
promontories  ? 

This  question  deserves  a  very  serious  examination,  for 
the  force  and  frequency  of  the  wind,  no  less  than  its 
direction,  is  an  important  element  in  the  estimation  of  a 
climate,  when  viewed  from  a  medical  standpoint. 

Wind  is,  without  doubt,  the  invalid's  greatest  enemy  on 
our  coast.  Even  the  most  beautiful  mornings,  opening 
with  a  cloudless  sunrise  and  warm  and  still  atmosphere, 
are  spoilt,  as  the  day  advances,  by  sudden  gusts  of 
merciless  and  violent  winds,  which  raise  clouds  of  dust, 
and  render  impossible  that  daily  constitutional  to  which 
the  invalid  looks  forward  so  eagerly. 

But  this  fault  of  our  climate  is  not  confined  to  any  one 
place  on  the  coast ;  it  is,  alas  !  common  to  all,  and  a 
wintering  place  entirely  free  from  strong  winds  is  one  of 
the  perfect  things  in  this  life  yet  to  be  discovered. 

Dr.  Sparks  writes  very  sensibly  on  this  subject : 

"...  It  may  be  stated  with  confidence,  that  no  climate  exists 
where  storms  and  violent  gales  are  unknown.  It  does  not  require  a 
very  large  acquaintance  with  climatological  literature  to  know  how 
many  would-be  tropical  and  sub- tropical  Paradises  are  at  certain 
seasons  ravaged  by  winds.  This  is  true  of  Australia,  New  Zealand,  and 
the  Cape,  without  prolonging  the  enumeration  further." 

The  wind  being,  then,  an  inevitable  evil,  the  question 
which  we  now  have  to  settle  is,  whether  Bordighera  is 
more  exposed  to  it  than  its  neighbours ;  for  the  old  proverb 
tells  us,  *'  Of  two  evils  choose  the  least." 

Now  it  is  more  difficult  to  discover  a  trustworthy  com- 
parison of  wind  than  of  rain,  owing  to  the  manner  in 
which  observations  are  made.    Anemometers  are  almost 


254 


METEOROLOGY. 


unknown  in  most  of  our  observatories,  and  every  one 
registers  an  approximate  value  to  the  force  of  the  wind 
according  to  his  own  judgment  and  by  a  table  prepared  by 
himself.  It  is  evident,  therefore,  that  we  can  accord  but 
a  relative  importance  to  results  so  obtained,  and  that  the 
only  valuable  information  they  give  us  is  the  direction,  not 
the  force  of  the  winds. 

In  my  observations  at  Bordighera  I  have  classed  the 
winds  under  four  headings— s^row^/,  moderate,  light,  and 

calm. 

Below  is  a  table  in  reference  to  the  winds  which  are  siiffi- 

ciently  strong  to  cause  discomfort  to  invalids  : 


Years  1879-82. 

No.  of  dayi. 

January     15 

February 

March         

April 

May 

June 

July 

August       

September 13 

October       17 

November 13 

December H 


22 
13 
19 

16 
19 
14 
13 


Mean. 
3*25 

5-50 

3-25 

4-75 

4- 

4*75 

3-50 

3-25 

3-25 

4-25 

3-25 

2-25 


From  the  above  figures  we  learn,  (1)  that  the  month 
of  February  gives  us  the  highest  mean  of  strong  winds, 
and  that  December,  on  the  other  hand,  is  the  calmest 
month  of  the  year ;  and  (2),  that  during  the  six  months 
of  winter  (say  182  days)  the  number  of  days  upon  which 
winds  blow  strong  enough  to  cause  inconvenience  to  invalids 
is  on  the  average  twenty-two  days,  or  in  the  proportion 


WINDS. 


255 


of  twelve  per  cent.  Is  this  proportion,  then,  an  exces- 
sive one?  Is  it  higher  than  that  experienced  by  our 
neighbours  on  either  side  ?    I  doubt  it. 

Besides,  it  is  worthy  of  remark  that  our  days  of  abso- 
lute calm  during  the  same  period  are  in  the  proportion  of 
sixty  per  cent.  However,  high  as  this  proportion  may 
appear  to  us,  it  is  probably  less  than  we  should  find  in 
those  places  which  are  sheltered  by  headlands,  where 
the  sea-breeze  is  less  felt  than  at  Bordighera.  But  if 
it  is  true  that  our  position  causes  us  to  experience  a 
greater  amount  of  wind,  this  can  of  course  only  apply 
to  those  which  are  light  and  moderate.  The  stronger 
winds,  coming  from  a  distance  and  sweeping  over  a  wide 
expanse  of  country,  are  almost  equally  felt  by  all ;  though 
it  is  true,  no  doubt,  that  in  places  like  Nice  and  Mentone, 
situated  at  the  entrances  of  valleys,  some  parts  of  these 
towns  are  more  or  less  protected  from  certain  winds,  in  a 
manner  which  is  not  the  case  with  the  outlying  portions 
of  Bordighera. 

The  plain  of  the  Borgo  Marina  and  the  hill-sides  which 
bound  it  to  the  north  are  more  or  less  protected  by  the 
Cape  from  the  easterly  winds,  which  it  is  probable  are  felt 
less  in  that  part  of  the  place  than  either  at  San  Kemo  or 
Mentone ;  but  no  doubt  the  weak  point  of  Bordighera  is 
its  complete  exposure  to  winds  blowing  from  the  west  and 
south-west. 

But  does  this  fact  constitute  an  advantage  for  the 
neighbouring  places  ?  If  I  did  not  fear  the  accusation  of 
seeking  everywhere  and  at  any  cost  for  arguments  in 
favour  of  our  climate,  I  might  reply  that  an  open  enemy, 
attacking  without  concealment,  is  far  preferable  to  one 
who  hides  himself,  that  he  may  assail  at  the  most  favour- 


256 


METEOROLOGY. 


able  opportunity  the  unsuspicious  pedestrian,  and  when  lie 
is  least  prepared  to  repulse  him. 

To  sum  up  the  position,  it  is  most  probable  that  at 
Bordighera  we  have  nearly  the  same  number  of  days  of 
strong  winds  as  our  neighbours,  and  perhaps  a  few  less 
when  it  is  absolutely  calm. 

The  winds  which  prevail  on  our  coast  divide  themselves 
into  two  classes:  light  winds  haviii.i;  a  local  origin,  and 
those  of  a  more  or  less  violent  cliaracter  which  come  from 
a  distance.  These  latter,  whatever  may  be  their  original 
direction,  have  a  tendency  to  follow  the  configuration  of 
the  coast  and  mountains,  and  to  blow  east  and  west  at 

Bordighera. 

The  eaderhj  wind  is  that  which  is  generally  accom- 
panied by  rain ;  that  from  the  west,  which  U  the  mistral 
of  Provence  deviated  from  its  original  course,  is,  above  all 
others,  the  wind  of  fine  weather,  for  it  will  not  tolerate  a 
single  cloud  in  the  sky. 

The  7nistral  or  maestrah  of  the  Italian  Compass  Card  has 
an  origin  analogous  to  the  trade  winds  of  the  Tropics,  and 
follows  their  variations  on  a  small  scale.  The  gradual 
heating  of  the  atmosphere  on  the  Mediteiraucan  coast 
causes  a  current  of  cold  air  to  move  from  the  north,  whicli, 
encountering  the  chain  of  the  Alps  and  seeking  a  means 
of  escape,  turns  to  the  west,  and  rushes  south,  by  the 
opening  offered  it  by  the  valley  of  the  Khone.  Arrived 
south  of  the  mountains,  it  swerves  to  the  east,  attracted  by 
the  southern  face  of  the  Maritime  Alps,  where,  owing  to 
the  sun's  rays  striking  on  a  vast  extent  of  barren  moun- 
tains, there  is  a  great  rarefaction  of  the  air. 

In  Provence  and  at  Nice  the  midml  is  a  north-westerly 


WINDS. 


257 


wind,  but  at  Bordighera,  and  indeed  everywhere  to  the 
east  of  the  point  of  Monaco,  the  massive  mountain  range 
formed  by  the  Tete-de-chien,  the  Agel,  the  Bres,  and 
Grammont  turn  it  to  the  west,  and  force  it  to  pass  over 
the  sea,  which  modifies  considerably  the  cold  and  dry 
character  it  originally  possessed. 

The  easterly  winds  may  be  divided  into  two  classes. 
The  true  Italian  levante,  a  light  or  moderate  wind,  greatly 
charged  with  moisture,  which  comes  to  us  direct  from  the 
marshy  plains  of  Tuscany.  Originally  this  wind  is  a  sciroceo 
or  south-east  w  ind,  deflected  from  its  original  direction  by 
the  chain  of  the  Apennines :  on  our  coast  it  is  the  wind 
which  not  only  brings  us  the  worst  weather,  but  that 
which  has  also  the  longest  duration.  The  other  easterly 
wind  is  never  accompanied  by  wet  weather,  though  it  is 
often  the  precursor  of  it:  it  is  merely  a  cold  Genoese 
tramontana  drawn  to  the  west  by  the  sun's  action  on  this 
part  of  our  coast. 

We  might  almost  call  it  an  easterly  mistral,  so  analo- 
gous are  the  origins  of  the  two  winds;  and,  like  its 
relative,  it  is  cold,  strong,  and  blows  tempestuously 
beneath  a  perfectly  cloudless  sky  for  periods  extending 
from  some  hours  to  several  days :  this  is  the  worst  wind 
from  which  the  district  suffers. 

As  a  third  violent  wind  we  must  mention  the  south-west 
or  libeccio,  as  it  is  called  in  Italy.  This  wind  visits  us  in 
the  form  of  gales,  lasting  from  one  to  three  days,  often 
accompanied  by  storms  of  tropical  rain.  It  is  easily 
recognised,  in  opposition  to  the  mistral,  by  the  large, 
dense  cumidi  with  which  it  covers  the  sky. 

The  light  winds,  of  local  origin,  are  the  sea  and  land 
breezes,  and  these  are  only  experienced  when  the  weather 

s 


258 


METEOROLOGY. 


is  very  fine  and  settled,  tlie  sky  cloudless,  and  no  other 
winds  are  troubling  the  atmosphere.  Their  origin  is 
analogous  to  that  of  the  mistral  The  sun,  during  the 
earlier  portion  of  the  day,  heats  the  eartli  more  than  the 
sea,  and  towards  midday  a  movement  of  air  commences 
towards  the  land,  in  order  to  replace  the  rarefied  air  which 
has  ascended  to  the  higher  regions.  After  sunset  exactly 
the  opposite  takes  place;  the  chill  produced  by  radiation 
is  greater  on  land  than  on  sea,  and  the  current  ot  air  is 
now  reversed,  and  travels  from  the  land  seawards. 

Many  authors  state  that  this  land  breeze  blows  rt'gularly 
from  sunset  to  sunrise,  but  this  is  incorrect.  I  have 
already  shown  that  the  cloudless  nights  give  us  two  dis- 
tinct minima  of  temperature,  and  it  is  a  fact  that  the  land 
wind  follows  faithfully  the  variations  of  the  thermometer  ; 
it  springs  up  with  the  first  minimim  of  the  evening,  which 
coincides  with  the  fall  of  the  dew,  and  dying  away  almost 
to  nothing  during  the  relatively  wanner  hours  of  the 
middle  of  the  night,  revives  again  with  fresh  intensity 
towards  morning,  when  the  thermometer  flills  once  more. 
But  not  imfrequently,  and  especially  during  the  height 
of  the  summer,  during  the  warmer  period  referred  to,  a 
current  of  air  blows  from  tlie  sea  landwards. 

The  ordinary  sea  breeze  rises  generally  from  the  south- 
east about  10.30  A.M.,  and  veering  steadily  to  the  southward 
and  westward,  finishes  off  towards  sunset  by  blowing  from  a 
south-westerly  direction.  No  sufficient  explanation  of  the 
cause  of  this  phenomenon  has  yet  been  proposed.  Certain 
meteorologists  have  indeed  attributed  this  peculiarity  to 
the  sun  successively  heating  the  different  slopes  of  the 
mountains  which  face  towards  the  sea.  But  this  ex- 
planation is  hardly  admissible,  when  one  bears  in  mind  the 


THE   ATMOSPHERE. 


259 


undulating  irregularity  of  our  coast  line ;  and,  further, 
that  the  phenomenon  in  question  is  found  to  exist  along 
the  whole  leno:th  of  the  Riviera. 

I  venture,  however,  to  suggest  the  following  as  a  more 
probable  theory : 

This  wind  being  due  to  a  current  of  cold  air  produced 
by  the  action  of  the  sun's  rays  upon  the  mountains,  the  air 
which  supplies  this  current  is  necessarily  drawn  from  the 
coldest  point  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood.  Now,  this 
point  we  know  is  neither  beneath  the  sun  nor  behind  him, 
but  well  in  front  of  his  course,  where  the  atmosphere  has 
not  yet  felt  liis  full  power. 


CHAPTER  V. 


THE    ATMOSPHERE. 


The  southern  sun — Effect  of  light  upon  the  respiration  of  animal  and 
vegetable  life — Mean  of  cloudless  and  cloudy  days — Hygrometrical 
observations — Views  of  Corsica — The  parhelion  of  1882. 

The  glorious  southern  sunshine  and  heavenly  blue  of  the 
Mediterranean  constitute,  far  more  than  a  high  tempera- 
ture, the  especial  charm  of  the  Riviera,  and  it  is  fine 
weather,  more  even  than  warmth,  which  tempts  strangers 
from  the  sunless  north  to  visit  our  shores. 

This  is  a  fact  which  is  not  sufficiently  recognised. 

Many  visitors,  strangers  to  the  Riviera,  and  arriving 
there  perhaps  just  as  summer  is  turning  gently  into 
autumn,  suffer  a  cruel  disappointment,  and  feel  almost  as 
if  some  deception  had  been  practised  upon  them,  when 

s  2 


260 


METEOROLOGY. 


they   experience   the    cold    weather    of   December    and 

January. 

Deceived  by  the  poetic  and  exa*r,ii:erate<l  descrif»tions  of 
a  southern  climate  which  have  reached  them  in  the  North, 
and  encouraged  in  this  error  by  the  appearance  of  tlie  suh- 
tropical  vegetation  tliey  fmd  in  the  gard(>ns  after  the 
glorious  summer  of  the  South,  they  h)ok  forward  to  passing 
a  winter  which  shall  be  but  a  perpetual  spring. 

Forests  of  grey  olive.^  cover  the  hill-sides  everywhere  ; 
oranges  and  lemons  around  them  are  ripening  in  the  open 
air ;  violets  may  be  plucked  in  the  woods  in  Decemher, 
and  anemones  in  January  ;  the  date-palm  and  eucalyptus 
are  in  the  public  walks,  whilst  in  the  gardens  the  banana, 
the  fan-palm,  tlie  guava,  and  a  profusion  of  otlier  sub- 
tropical, nay,  even  tropical  plants,  pass  the  winter  out  of 
doors ;  everythinsr  suggesting  at  first  sight  a  climate  many 
degrees  warmer  than  is  really  the  case. 

But,  in  truth,  the  vegetation  in  these  parts  is  even  less 
to  be  relied  upon  than  are  the  i>oets, 

Tlie  olive  is  an  extremely  hardy  tree  ;  it  grows  liigh  up 
in  our  mouutaio  valleys,  where  the  climate  in  no  degree 
presents  a  southern  tenipirature,  and  the  date-palm  i)os- 
sesses  these  characteristics  to  even  a  greater  extent; 
whilst  with  regard  to  the  banana,  ev-  n  if  it  manages  to 
survive  our  winters,  it  bears  no  fruit,  or  none  worth 
speaking  of  IndeeJ,  to  get  satisfactory  results  froui  this 
latter,  a  far  warmer  climate  than  that  of  the  Riviera  is 
required,  and  it  is  well  known  that  even  at  Algiers  the 
fruit  never  arrives  at  perfection. 

So,  though  no  doubt  our  climate,  and  that  of  this 
portion  of  the  Mediterranean  coast,  is  much  superior  to 
those  of  Northern  Europe,  its  chief  characteristics  consist 


THE   ATMOSPHERE. 


261 


in  the  intense  brilliancy  and  perpetual  sunshine  which  a 
constantly  unclouded  sun  disperses  through  the  atmosphere. 
Both  animal  and  vegetable  life  alike  profit  by  this  excess 
of  sunshine,  but  we  know  that  the  respiration  of  each  is 
exactly  the  reverse  of  the  other ;  that  plants  exposed  to 
the  influence  of  light  absorb  carbonic  acid,  and  exhale 
oxygen,  and  animals  do  precisely  the  opposite  ;  and  that 
these  actions  of  the  respiratory  organs  liave  an  activity 
proportionate  to  the  intensity  of  the  light. 

Now,  the  sunsliine  in  the  South,  being  infinitely  more 
intense  than  in  the  cloudy  countries  of  the  North,  it 
results  that  the  respiration  not  only  of  animals,  but  also  of 
plants,  takes  place  under  far  more  favourable  conditions 
in  the  former  than  the  latter.  This,  then,  is  the  real 
secret  of  the  brilliant  vegetation  of  our  coast ;  and  this 
also  is,  without  doubt,  the  cause  why  so  many  serious 
complaints  are  benefited  and  not  unfrequently  cured  by  a 
residence  at  a  Rivieran  winter  resort.  But  the  tem- 
perature often  falls  considerably  in  these  parts,  and  the 
air  becomes  quite  cold  enough  to  render  an  overcoat  or 
shawl  no  less  necessary  at  Nice  or  Bordighera  than  at 
Paris  or  London. 

The  real  difi'erence  between  the  two  meteorological 
zones  consists  in  the  contrast  presented  by  the  clouds  of 
the  former  and  the  fogs  of  the  latter  town  to  our  blue  and 
cloudless  sky,  and  to  those  sunny  days  which  frequently, 
in  some  winters,  follow  each  other  month  by  month,  with 
scarcely  an  interruption. 

The  whole  of  the  Mediterranean  basin  has  the  good 
fortune  to  enjoy  the  great  privilege  of  a  cloudless  sky 
more  than  any  other  region  with  an  equally  temperate 
climate :  more  so  indeed  than  most  of  the  tropical  ones. 


I 


262 


METEOBOLOOY. 


But  all  the  coast  does  not  possess  it  to  the  same  extent, 
and  none  probably  to  so  great  a  degree,  if  we  except 
some  parts  of  the  Levant,  as  the  amphitheatre  formed  by 
the  union  of  the  gulfs  of  Genoa  and  Lyons. 

The  meteorological  influences  which  combine  to  produce 
such  a  state  of  things  are  not  difficult  to  point  out.  Tlie 
two  powerful  winds  from  beyond  the  Alps,  the  inistral, 
which  blows  from  the  west,  and  the  Genoese  tramontana 
from  the  east,  are  indefatigable  in  clearing  the  sky  of 
clouds,  whilst  the  enormous  radiation  which  takes  place 
during  the  winter  nights  plays  a  nut  unimportant  part,  as 
it  prevents  the  watery  vapours  collecting  in  the  upi)er  air. 
These  causes  combined  give  us  a  state  of  sky  exactly  the 
opposite  of  that  of  Northern  Europe,  viz.  that  the  number 
of  our  chudy  days  is  about  equal  to  the  total  of  their  fine 
ones,  and  vice  versd. 

The  follov\ing  table  shows  that  the  mean  during  the  six 
winter  months  was  81  perfectly  cloudless  days  at  Bordig- 
hera.  The  average  at  Nice  during  the  same  period  was 
60,  and  at  London  12. 

Years  1879-82. 


Perfectly  Cloudless  Days. 

Bitys. 
January     57 

February 48 


March 
April  .. 
May  . . 
June  .. 
July  .. 
August 
SeptemlKjr  .. 
October 
November  .. 


61 

Q9 

54 
69 
oo 
65 
62 
40 
64 


Deceml)er 67 


Average. 
14-2 

12- 

12-7 

8- 

13-5 

17-2 

13-7 
13- 
10- 
16- 

16-7 


Mean  per  month 


14 


THE    ATMOSPHERE. 


263 


Days  completely  Overcast. 


January 
February    . . 
March 

Days. 

..     20 
..     19 
..      11 

April 

May 

June 

..     16 

..     20 

8 

July 

August 

0 
1 

September  .. 
October 

..     10 
..     19 

November  .. 

..     20 

December   .. 

..     14 

Mean  per 

month 

Average. 

5 


4 
2 
4 
5 
2 
0 
0 
2 
4 
5 
3 


25 
5 

7 


3-3 


We  may  remark  that  it  is  not  in  mid-winter,  but  well 
forward  in  spring  and  autumn,  viz.  the  months  of  April 
and  October,  that  give  us  the  lowest  means  of  cloudless 
days ;  and  the  month  of  December  is,  of  the  winter  months, 
that  which  has  the  lowest  number  of  those  days  which  are 
completely  overcast. 

If  we  take  out  from  the  foregoing  table  the  particulars 
for  the  six  winter  months  (from  October  to  March),  we 
obtain  the  following  results  : 


Perfectly  Fine  Days, 

January 

February 
March 
October 
Nuvcniber 


December 


Total 

Mean  per  month 


14 

2 

12- 

12- 

7 

10- 

16- 

16 

•7 

81- 

6 

13' 

6 

Being  24 '7  per  cent,  of  the  182  days  composing  the  six 
months. 


264 


METEOROLOGY. 

Days  entirki.y  Ovekcast, 

January 

February 

March       

Octoter 

Novenil>er        

Decemter •• 

Total        

Mean  icr  moiitli 


4-f» 


J-  » 


4-7 

5- 

3-5 

4 -'A 


Thus  giving  7*8  per  cent,  for  the  182  days  as  above. 

Hygrometrical  observatioDS  have  not  been  made  at  Bor- 
dighera  either  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time,  or  with 
sufficient  reguhirity  during  the  year,  to  be  of  any  value.  ^ 

1  can  only  place  before  the  reader,  interested  in  this 
subject,  the  results  of  a  series  of  observations  made  by  one 
of  our  winter  residents  during  the  season  of  1881-82  by 
means  of  the  wet  and  dry  bulb  thermometer  (Mason's 
hygrometer),  in  a  garden  close  to  the  beach.  The  tlier- 
mometers  were  placed  under  cover,  in  a  Stevenson's  louvre- 
screened  cage,  at  the  height  of  about  four  feet  from  the 
groimd,  and  at  a  suitable  distance  from  houses  and  trees. 

Here  then  is  the  result  of  these  observations  as  to  the 
relative    moisture;    saturation    being   considered    equal 

to  100 : 

Observations  at  8  a.m. 


November  1881 
December      „ 
January  1882 
Februarv 
March 
April 


)» 


»» 


»» 


1  HEKt 

OMKIfclt. 

Relative 

Dry  Bulb. 

Wet  Bulb. 

Humidity. 

54 

49 

74 

46 

42 

73 

44 

42 

76 

48 

42 

65 

54 

48 

64 

59 

53 

GO 

Mean 


68-6 


i 


^1 


THE    ATMOSPHERE. 


Observations  at  2  p.m. 


265 


Thermometer. 

Relative 

Dry  Bulb. 

Wet  Bulb. 

Humidity. 

NovemlKT 

1881       . 

.       ..      61 

55 

68 

December 

»» 

.       ..      54 

48 

58 

January  1882 

.        ..      57 

51 

64 

Februarv 

>» 

.      ..     58 

49 

52 

March 

»» 

.      ..     62 

55 

59 

April 

j» 

.       ..      03 

of) 

57 

Mean 

•             *  • 

..      59-6 

'« 

Genei 

al 

mean 

..      64-1 

The  usual  mean  of  the  relative  moisture  at  Bordigbera 
daring  the  winter  months  will  then  be  64  •  1.     This  indi- 
cates an  extraordinary  dryness,  if  we  compare  it  with  that 
either  of  Paris  or  London.     In  northern  climates,   the 
moisture  of  the  atmosphere  is  almost  always  correlative  of 
the  state  of  the  sky  and  the  existing  weatlier ;  an  increase 
of  moisture  indicating  approaching  rain  or  vice  versa.    On 
the  Ligurian  coast  it  is  otherwise.    The  rain-clouds  do  not 
form  themselves  above  our  heads,  but  they  are  brought  by 
the  various  winds  from  far  off,  and,  as  we  may  say,  dis- 
charge their  contents  in  passing,  and  frequently  from  a 
great  height.     It  then  frequently  happens  that  rain  falls 
when  the  atmosphere  on  the  earth's  surface  is  at  the 
maximum  of  drNuess. 

The  view  of  the  mountains  of  Corsica,  which  we  'obtain 
from  time  to  time,  is  always  a  point  of  great  interest  to 
strangers,  as  it  only  occurs  at  intervals  and  under  very 
exceptional  circumstances.  If  the  Corsican  mountains 
were  visible  on  each  occasion  when  the  weather  is  clear 
to  the  south-west,  the  fact  would  be  of  no  greater  import- 
ance than  a  similar  view  of  the  other  distant  mountains 
which  rise  above  the  horizon,  such  as  the  Cape  Roux  of 
the  Esterel  for  instance,  which  may  be  always  seen.     But 


i 


\ 


METEOROLOOr. 

Corsica  is  not  always  visible,  not  even  in  the  clearest 

weather. 

We  may  sometimes  look  for  it  on  a  winter's  clay,  a  clay 
following  rain  even,  when  the  atmosi.liere  is  wonderfully 
clear,  and  search  the  horizon  with  a  telescope,  without  being 
uble  to  discover  any  signs  of  it ;  whilst  on  another,  in  the 
afternoon  perhaps,  when  tlie  atmosphere  may  be  thick  and 
hazy  all  round,  you  may  distinguish  its  peculiar  outline, 
traced  indistinctly   in   the  distance.     But   it  is  in  the 
autumn  especially,  and  in  the  early  morning  a  few  moments 
before  sunrise,  that  this  phenomenon  presents  itself  in  its 
siDgular  beauty.  Then  it  is  that  Corsica  appears  strangely 
nea^r  and   enlarged,  and  the  outlines  of  the  mountains 
delineated  with  astonishing  clearness :  all  their  irregulari- 
ties are  visible,  and  it  seems  almost  as  if  we  could  make  out 
the  houses  and  trees,  whilst  it  is  difficult  to  believe  that 
anything  more  than  a  few  hours   row  now  separates  us 

from  them. 

To  find  out  the  explanation  of  these  apparent  contradic- 
tions, there  are  two  things  we  must  take  account  of:  the 
heigJd  of  these  Corsican  mountains  and  their  distance  from 

this  coast. 

Now  the  summits  which  are  seen  from  Bordiglicra  are 
those  of  the  lofty  mountain  range  which  runs  across  the 
north-west  portion  of  the  island,  between  Calvi  and  St. 
Florent.  This  chain  contains  Monte  Rotondo,  tlie  highest 
mountain  in  Corsica,  whose  peak  rises  8768  feet  above 

the  level  of  the  sea. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  distance  of  our  shores  from  the 
coast  of  Corsica  is  just  100  miles,  and  from  Monte  Rotondo 
about  136  miles. 

Now  it  is  well  known  that  distant  objects  viewed  across 


THE   ATMOSPHERE. 


267 


the  sea  are  partially  hidden  by  it ;  that  anyone  watching 
a  ship  sailing  away  from  him  loses  sight  first  of  all  of  the 
deck,  then  of  the  lower  masts,  and  so  on  ;  the  disappear- 
ance being  gradual,  until  finally  even  her  trucks  disappear 

from  view. 

Arguing  then  from  these  facts,  we  arrive  scientifically  at 
the  conclusion  that  an  observer  standing  at  Bordighera 
about  300  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  looking 
straight  before  him,  would  see  nothing  more  than  the  top- 
most peak  of  the  mountain. 

But  we  see  far  more  tlian  this,  even  from  the  level  of 
the  sea ;  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  examine  the  outline 
of  Corsica  carefully  on  a  fine  autumn  morning,  to  convince 
oneself  that  we  can  see  nearly,  if  not  quite  indeed,  as  far 

down  as  the  shore. 

It  is  therefore  evident  that  it  is  owing  to  refraction  or 
mirage  that  we  enjoy  so  complete  a  view  of  this  island. 

Now  it  is  a  scientific  fact  that  rays  of  light  have  the  pro- 
perty of  refracting  themselves— that  is  to  say,  of  deviating 
from  a  straight  line— when  passing  obliquely  from  one  tran- 
sparent medium  to  another  more  or  less  refringent  than 
the  first.  And  further,  that  the  greater  be  the  difference 
in  density  between  the  two  mediums,  the  greater  in 
proportion  will  be  the  refraction  ;  whilst  if  this  passage 
takes  place  from  a  less  refringent  medium  to  another  which 
is  more  so,  the  deflection  will  be  towards  the  observer ;  in 
the  contrary  case,  the  opposite  will  take  place.  Thus,  if  a 
stick  be  plunged  obliquely  into  water,  it  will  appear  to 
bend  at  the  point  of  immersion  and  the  other  end  will 
seem  nearer  to  the  observer  than  it  is  in  reality. 

To  apply  these  data  to  the  phenomenon  which  we  are 
considering,  it  is  necessary  to  imagine  the  following  state 


.1 


1 


268 


METEOROLOGY. 


of  things :  over  Corsica  an  atmosphere  so  clear  that  the 
niountrins  are  strongly  lit  up,  and  which  is  also  so  exceed- 
ingly dry  that  the  air  is  but  slightly  refringeiit ;  over  the 
sea  an  atmosphere  greatly  charged  with  moisture,  and 
consequently  highly  refringent. 

The  results  being  that  the  luminous  rays  leaving  Corsica 
meet  a  denser  and  more  refringent  medium,  which  has  the 
effect  of  deflecting  the  image  of  the  island  towards  the 
earth,  and  thus  enabling  us  to  see  that  which  is  really 
below  the  horizon.     And  this  also  explains  how  it  is  that 
we  can  sometimes  see  Corsica  even  in  liazy  or  foggy  weather. 
But  if  we  imagine  an  exactly  opposite  state  of  things, 
viz.  a  moist  atmospliere  over  Corsica  and  a  dry  one  over 
the  sea,  it  is  clear  that  exactly  the  reverse  will  take  place  ; 
the  luminous  rays  meeting  a  less  refringent  medium  will  be 
deflected   upwards,  and  however  clear  the  horizon  may 
appear,  we  shall  see  nothing. 

I  cannot  conclude  this  chapter  without  speaking  of  two 
very  remarkable  phenomena,  showing  an  abnormal  state 
of  atmosphere,  which  were  witnessed  at  Bordighera  at  the 
commencement  of  the  year  1882. 

The  barometrical  pressures  were  extraordinary  over  the 
whole  of  Europe;  tlie  maximum  of  30-434  which  was 
reached  in  Ireland  had  not  been  observed  witliin  the 
memory  of  man,  and  at  Bordighera  the  height  for  several 
weeks  had  averaged  30  *  355. 

The  results  of  such  an  nnparalleled  state  of  things,  viz. 
so  extraordinarily  heavy  an  atmosphere,  were  as  curious 

as  they  were  varied. 

To  begin  with,  the  weather  was  extremely  beautiful ;  we 
had  at  Bordighera,  during  the  period  in  question,  nine- 


THE    ATMOSPHERE. 


269 


teen  days,  following  each  other,  absolutely  cloudless  from 
morning  till  night. 

But  the  effect  of  such  an  abnormal  pressure  of  atmos- 
phere, added  to  an  extreme  dryness,  was  not  only  entirely 
to  clear  the  sky  of  clouds ;  it  produced  phenomena  very 
rarely  seen  in  these  latitudes,  and  influenced  both  animate 
and  inanimate  nature  in  a  very  remarkable  manner. 
People  of  a  nervous  temperament  felt  ill  and  depressed,  tlie 
insane  became  violent,  certain  complaints  became  aggra- 
vated, whilst  others  were  benefited.  Inanimate  nature 
offered  phenomena  hardly  less  singular :  the  influence  of 
the  atmospheric  pressure  was  felt  to  the  depths  of  the 
earth:  the  water  in  wells  rose  without  rain,  fountains 
gushed  more  abundantly,  and  the  fire-damp  in  collieries 
threatened  explosion. 

Two  very  interesting  and  unusual  phenomena  were 
noticed  on  this  coast  during  the  period  in  question. 

On  the  20th  of  January,  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon, 
a  thick  fog  of  remarkable  dryness,  whose  presence  so  near 
the  ground  it  was  difiicult  to  explain,  spread  itself  all  over 
the  country ;  it  was  brought  by  a  south-east  wind  and 
consequently  from  the  direction  of  Corsica.  The  same 
phenomenon  was  observed  at  Nice  a  few  days  previously. 

These  dry  and  dense  fogs  advancing  in  narrow  columns 
—for  whilst  that  which  visited  Nice  was  not  experienced 
at  Bordighera,  ours  of  the  20th  was  not  observed  in  that 
town  or  further  east  than  Oneglia— are  peculiarly  cha- 
racteristic of  the  Polar  Eegions.  For  the  same  causes 
produce  the  same  effects.  The  barometrical  pressure 
rendering  the  presence  of  watery  vapours  in  the  atmos- 
phere impossible,  produces  an  extraordinary  dryness; 
an  exactly  similar   result    being   brought  about  by  the 


270 


METEOROLOGY. 


(    271     ) 


intense  cold  of  the  Arctic  regions,  and  this  dryness,  for 
reasons  of  which  we  know  little,  causes  a  variety  of  inter- 
esting and  peculiar  phenomena. 

Amongst  the  most  curious  of  these  is  the  parhelion,  a 
very  beautiful  specimen  of  which  was  seen  at  Bordighera 
on  the  27th  of  January.  Towards  one  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon,  a  fog  similar  to  that  of  the  20th,  but  at  a  much 
greater  altitude,  spread  itself  over  the  sky,  and  soon  a  wide 
and  luminous  circle  was  formed  some  distance  around  the 
sun ;  a  few  moments  later  two  moch  suns  (jmrhelia),  coloured 
like  the  rainbow,  appeared  on  the  outer  side  of  the  circle, 
on  a  line  witli  the  sun,  and  to  tlie  east  and  west  of  it. 
This  striking  phenomenon  lasted  for  more  than  an  hour. 
At  one  time  it  was  possible  to  see  an  arc  of  the  counter 
circle  above,  which  is  a  detail  of  great  rarity  in  parhelia, 
even  in  those  regions  where  they  frequently  occur. 


PART  IV. 


NATUEAL    HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  I. 


LOCAL    OEOLOGY. 


GL'<»'(>;^icnl  history  of  Tiiguria — Tlie  Niiiinrmlitic  Sea — Formation  of 
deltas — Fossililerous  clays — Levels  of  tlie  various  upheavals — Plio- 
cene fossils — Stratification  of  the  plain  of  Bordighera — Porosity  of 
the  soil — Mineral  s]n-in;j;s. 

The  geological  history  of  the  narrow  strip  of  land  which 
stretches  between  the  chain  of  the  Maritime  Alps  and  the 
sea,  goes  back  to  the  end  of  the  Cretaceous  period. 

This  belt  of  country,  composed  of  a  mass  of  secondary 
mountains  singularly  ragged  and  furrowed  by  deep  valleys, 
is  essentially  tertiary,  from  the  great  fault  at  the  shore 
up  to  the  crystalline  rocks  of  the  crest  of  the  Alps  and 
Apennines  ;  it  does  not  offer,  however,  except  very  rarely, 
any  signs  of  other  formations  more  ancient  than  the 
eocene. 

But  on  the  other  hand,  all  geologists  are  agreed  in 
acknowledging  that  it  is  impossible  to  study  the  tertiary 
formations  and  their  admirable  fossils,  anywhere  so  well 
as  in  Western  Liguria,  where  nature  has  brought  them 
together  in  a  narrow  space,  like  specimens  in  a  museum. 


272 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


From  the  period  of  the  Nummulitic  sea,  which  covered 
the  whole  of  the  country  towards  tlie  end  of  the  Jurassic 
period,  this  coast  has  been  the  theatre  of  repeated  depres- 
sions and  upheavals,  which  however  did  not  alter  its  topo- 
graphical character  in  any  important  degree. 

The  ridges  which  separate  the  valleys,  and  the  water- 
courses which  the  mountain  streams  have  worn  between 
them,  have  maintained  their  present  position  through 
every  geological  vicissitude. 

The  result  of  which  has  been  tliat  the  streams  at  certain 
times  rushing  towards  the  sea  as  mountain  torrents, 
during  periods  of  upheaval,  at  others,  thrown  back  so  as 
to  form  slow  flowing  rivers  with  deep  estuaries,  thanks  to 
subsidences  of  the  soil— liave  deposited  upon  their  deltas, 
at  different  epochs,  shingle,  sand  and  clay. 

The  whole  of  the  liills  which  border  the  torrents 
between  the  valley  of  Borglietto  and  the  crest  of  the 
Berceau,  contain  deposits  of  Pliocene  clay,  rich  in  fossils, 
belonging  to  the  tertiary  beds  called  ''  sub-apennine,"  as 
they  are  met  with  on  all  the  hill  sides  of  Liguria  and  the 
Apennines,  from  Antibes  far  into  the  south  of  Italy  and  in 

Sicily. 

The  upheaval  which  produced  these  hills,  which  is 
believed  to  be  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  the  Pliocene 
formations,  has  its  culminating  point  not  far  from  Venti- 
miglia,  where  the  fossiliferous  clay  is  found  about  950 
feet  above  tlie  level  of  the  sea ;  whilst  at  Genoa  it  does 
not  rise  much  above  20  feet,  at  Savona  about  150  feet,  and 
at  Albenga  to  about  220  feet.  This  upheaval  indeed 
is  said  to  be  the  earliest  of  which  Italy  has  been  the 
theatre,  as  tlie  Pliocene  fossils  of  these  regions  and  Upper 
Italy  generally  show  no  less  than  76  per  cent,  of  extinct 


LOCAL  GEOLOGY. 


273 


1 

1' 


species.  This  proportion  regularly  diminishes  as  we  go 
South,  until  the  lowest  percentage  of  barely  30  is  reached 
in  Calabria  and  Sicily. 

The  Pliocene  clays  generally  rest  on  beds  of  gravelly 
conglomerate,  rich  in  bivalve  shells,  and  these  again,  as 
one  mav  see  at  the  Cima  cli  Monte,  on  a  conglomerate 
{'pudding-stone)  with  very  large  pebbles,  the  composition 
of  which  clearly  sliows  that  it  has  been  formed  by  a  sea 
so  violent  in  its  nature  as  to  be  almost  impossible  to 
conceive  in  the  present  epoch. 

This  conglomerate  rests  in  its  turn  upon  the  black  lime- 
stone which  crops  out  on  the  hill  sides  of  the  Borglietto 
valley,  where  it  is  used  for  the  manufacture  of  hydraulic 
lime,  and  side  by  side  with  the  sandstone  on  the  lower 
slopes  of  Monte  Nero, 

Some  traces  of  the  volcanic  action  by  which  these 
upheavals  have  been  brought  about,  are  met  with  here 
and  there  in  the  veins  of  p)orpyhry  which  have  penetrated 
to  the  surface  through  crevasses  in  the  strata  above  them : 
an  example  of  this  may  be  found  between  Monaco  and 

Eza.* 

The  lover  of  fossils  will  be  struck  when  hunting  for  them 
in  the  Pliocene  clays,  not  only  by  the  remarkable  number 
of  species  represented  (more  than  70  indeed  have  been 
tabulated),  but  by  the  admirable  state  of  preservation 
which  the  shells  are  in.  Anyone  who  will  take  the 
trouble  to  visit  the  valleys  of  Borghetto,  Vallecrosia, 
or  Nervia,  can  find  for  himself  specimens  superior  to  most 
which  are  found  in  the  Geological  museums.  Dr.  Good- 
child,  the  English  physician  practising  at  Bordighera,  has 
presented  the  British   Museum    with  no   less   than  415 

*  Chambrun  de  Rosement — Etvdes  geologiques  sur  le  Var  et  le  Rhom. 

T 


274 


NATURAL   HLSTOKY. 


LOCAL    GEOLOGY. 


275 


specimens   of  Pliocene  fossils  collected   by  him   in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Bordigherii  and  Vallecrosia. 

The  cape  at  Mortola  also  offers  a  rich  deposit  of 
nummulites  of  Eocene  origin  wliich  may  be  followed  up  the 
slopes  of  the  Berceau  to  a  height  of  between  900  and 
1000  feet. 

The  fine  plain  which  stretches  from  the  cape  of  Bordig- 
hera  as  far  as  the  riglit  bank  of  the  Nervia,  the  eastern 
portion  of  which  is  destined  to  receive  the  Bordighera  of 
the  future,  is  entirely  of  recent  formation  :  its  existence  does 
not  even  extend  beyond  historic  times.     It  is  to  a  certain 
extent  a  delta,  formed  by  the  alluvium  of  the  torrents 
which  have  brought  down  gravel,  sand,  and  mud,  by  dehns 
from  the  hills,  which  hfive  added  to  all  this  deposits  of 
conglomerate  and  clay  ;  and  lastly,  by  the  constant  action 
of  a  current  which  sets  along  the  coast  from  west  to  east, 
and  which  has  thrown  up  the  detritus  of  the  various  rivers, 
and  thus  completely  succeeded  in  effacing  the  bend  or 
elbow  which  originally  formed  the  creek  or  hordigue  of 
St.  Ampelio. 

It  may  strike  some  readers  as  strange  that  I  should 
speak  of  a  current  setting  from  west  to  east  along  the 
Ligurian  coast,  since  it  is  a  well-known  fact  that  the  great 
current  of  the  Mediterranean  flows  from  east  to  west  in 
the  gulf  of  Genoa ;  hence  an  explanation  of  this  apparent 
anomaly,  and  a  few  words  on  the  general  question  of 
currents  and  tides  in  the  Mediterranean,  will  not  here  be 

out  of  place. 

It  is  often  said  that  the  Mediterranean  is  a  tideless  sea ; 
and  such  is  indeed  the  case,  practically  speaking.     The 


/ 


\ 


H 


shallowness  of  its  waters,  its  limited  extent,  and  the  large 
promontories  and  islands  wliich  crowd  its  surface, 
dividing  it  into  a  series  of  narrow  channels  and  deep  gulfs, 
are  all  circnmstances  eahulated  to  preclude  the  formation 
of  a  tidal  wave.  Still,  the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  are 
not  motionless  like  those  of  a  stagnant  pond.  The  whole- 
some purifying  effects  wliich  tides  produce  on  the  sea- 
boards where  they  occur,  by  continually  changing  the 
water  which  bathes  the  coast,  are  provided  for  in  a 
different  way  in  this  land-locked  sea. 

The  level  of  the  IMediterranean  is  considerably  lower 
than  that  of  the  Atlantic :  a  fact  caused  entirely  by  the 
enormous  evaporation  inherent  to  a  shallow  sea  under  a 
hot  sun  and  a  cloudless  sky. 

To  form  an  idea  of  this  astonishing  amount  of  evapo- 
ration, one  has  only  to  remember  that  besides  the 
strong  current  wldch  the  difference  of  level  causes  to 
flow  in  by  the  strait  of  Gibraltar,  the  Mediterranean 
absorbs— in  common  with  the  Black  Sea,  which  forms 
part  of  its  system— the  waters  of  all  the  greatest  rivers  of 
Europe,  excepting  only  the  Ilhine  and  the  Volga;  and 
to  this  enormous  mass  of  fresh  \^ater  we  must  add  that 
contributed  by  one  of  the  most  important  rivers  of  Africa, 

the  Nile. 

The  chief  effect  of  this  great  influx  of  fresh  water  is,  no 
doubt,  to  temper  the  excessive  saltness  which  the  sea 
would  acquire,  were  the  difference  of  level  compensated  by 
the  inflow  at  Gibraltar  alone,  seeing  that  the  evaporation 
leaves  the  salt  behind  ;  as  it  is,  the  Mediterranean  is  but 
slightly  Salter  than  the  Atlantic. 

Still,  it  maybe  asked  why  the  saltness  of  the  Mediter- 

T  2 


1 


276 


KATUBAL   HISTORY. 


ranean  does  not  continue  regnlarly  increasing,  since  sea- 
water  is  constantly  pouring  into  it,  and  the  answer  to  this 
question  is  well  worth  a  few  lines,  as  it  elucidates  one  of 
the  prettiest  phenomena  in  nature. 

{Strong  brine  is  heavier  than  ordinary  sea-water;  conse- 
quently the  current  which  enters  by  the  strait  of  Gibraltar 
spreads  itself  on  the  surface  of  the  .AltMlitci ranean,  the 
brine  left  by  evaporation  sinking  to  the  bottom,  and 
thence,  in  obedience  to  the  law  of  the  equilibrium  of  li- 
quids of  different  densities,  flowing  out  into  the  AU  an  tic 
as  an  under-current.  And  tliis  outflow  necessarily  takes 
place  in  greater  or  less  quantity,  exactly  in  proportion  to 
the  strength  and  depth  of  the  brine  wliich  forms  the  sub- 
stratum of  the  Mediterranean,  the  saltness  of  whose  waters 
is  thus  maintained  at  a  certain  degree  and  regulated  with 
the  greatest  nicety. 

The  same  phenomenon  occurs  under  still  more  striking 
circumstances  in  the  Eed  Sea,  the  level  of  which,  owing 
to  evaporation,  is  identical  with  that  of  the  Mediterranean, 
as  is  practically  demonstrated  by  the  absence  of  any  cur- 
rent in  the  Suez  canal  But  the  Red  Sea  receives  no 
important  rivers;  consequently,  the  loss  of  water  from 
evaporation  is  entirely  compensated  by  tlie  current  which 
sets  in  through  the  strait  of  Bab  el  ]\Iandeb,  the  brine  flow- 
ing out  at  the  bottom,  as  at  Gibraltar,  and  thus  maintain- 
ing the  Mater  but  little,  if  at  all,  Salter  than  that  of  the 
Mediterranean. 

But,  to  return  to  the  question  of  tides  and  currents : 
The  compensation  for  evaporation  supplied  by  rivers, 
however  great  it  may  be,  would  prove  totally  insuflScient 
without  the  help  of  the  volume  of  water  which  pours  in  at 
Gibraltar,  forming  a  system  of  currents  the  effects  of 


i 


\ 


LOCAL  GEOLOGY. 


277 


wliich  are  perceptible  throughout    the    Mediterranean. 
From  tlie  strait  of  Gibraltar  the  current  proceeds  east- 
ward, along  the  north  coast  of  Africa ;  on  meeting  the 
island  of  Skily,  it  divides  into  two  branches,  one  flowing 
towards  the  Levant  by  the  Malta  channel,  the  other  turn- 
ing north  along  the  east  coasts  of  Sardinia  and  Corsica, 
then  deflecting  westward,  after  doubling  Cape  Corse,  so  as 
to  strike  the  coast  of  France  at  the  bottom  of  the  gulf  of 
Lyons.     Here  its  main  body  again  swerves   to  the  west 
and  proceeds  to  disperse  itself  along  the  coast  of  Spain ; 
but  at  the  same  time  a  small  counter-current  turns  east- 
ward and  comes  along  the  sea-board   of  Provence   and 
Liguria,  and  it  is  owing  to  this  particular  fact  that  we 
have  a  current  from  west  to  east,  which,  although  almost 
imperceptible  elsewhere,  is  easily  recognisable  at  Bordi- 
ghera,  owing  to  the  projecting  configuration  of  the  coast, 
which  forms,  so  to  speak,  a  strait  between  the  land  and 
the  main  current  flowing  in  the  opposite  direction  at  sea, 
and  through  which   the   counter-current   is  compelled  to 

force  its  w^ay. 

But  this  system  of  currents  of  the  Mediterranean  is 
necessarily  affected  by  the  tidal  wave  of  the  Atlantic. 
When  it  is  high-water  outside  the  straits  of  Gibraltar,  the 
inflow  naturally  takes  place  in  greater  quantity  than  at 
low-water.  Hence  the  currents  of  the  Mediterranean  are 
constantly  receiving  a  series  of  impulses,  at  regular  inter- 
vals, which  are,  in  fact,  secondary  tidal  ivaves,  and  which 
produce  small  tides  throughout  the  system.  These  are, 
however,  so  slight  on  our  coast,  that  any  disturbing  influ- 
ence, such  as  winds  blowing  from  the  sea  or  the  shore,  or 
a  heavy  swell,  suffice  to  render  them  imperceptible;  but 
in  calm  weather,  a  tide  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  may  be 


if 


278 


NATURAL   HISTOKY. 


recognised  on  this  coast.  In  deep  gulfs,  on  tlie  other 
hand,  they  are  more  apparent :  at  Venice  tliere  is  a  tide 
of  several  feet. 

The  following  table  will  show  tlie  order  of  the  various 
beds  which  form  the  soil  of  the  delta  of  Bordighera  in  the 
upper  parts,  towards  the  commencement  of  the  hills  : 


Humus. 


^mvly  clay  or  sand  with  recent  shells. 


G  ravell y  [xnldi  iig-stoiie. 
.  ,  .  Sea  level.  .  .  . 


Hiinl  fussiliferous  irndding-stoue. 


Fossiliferous  saiidstoiie, 


Black  limestone. 


rriiiiitive  rocks.  (?) 

Nearer  the  sea  the  clay  disappears,  the  sand  and  gra- 
vel resting  directly  on  the  conglomerate. 

The  soil  of  this  phiin  has  an  extraordinary  porosity ; 
the  rainfall  passes  through  it  with  marvellous  rapidity, 
and  in  spite  of  the  neiglibourhood  of  the  hills,  the  fresh- 
water level  which  feeds  tlie  wells  is  never  sensibly  liigher 
than  the  surface  of  the  Mediterninean. 

The  water  from  the  wells  and  springs  which  we  are 
compelled  to  use  at  Bordighera  and  San  Kenio,  pending 
the  construction  of  the  aqueduct  (a  work  greatly  to  be  . 
desired),  which  is  to  bring  us  the  abundant  and  delicious 
water  of  the  lioya  or  the  ^\*rvia — is  of  an  excellent  quality 
for  drinking,  although  strongly  impregnated  with  calcareous 
salts,  drawn  witliout  doubt  from  the  bed  of  gravelly  con- 


I 


iS 


i 


1 


LOCAL  GEOLOGY.  ^79 

glomerate.  Indeed,  of  mineral  waters  Liguria  possesses 
none,  save  a  few  sulphurous  springs.  These  springs,  often 
warm  ou  the  northern  face  of  the  Alps  and  the 
Apennines,  as  at  Valdieri  and  at  Acqui,  are  uniformly 
cold  or  nearly  so  on  the  southern.  The  valleys  of  the 
Vesubie  and  the  Borreon,  as  well  as  those  of  the  Roya 
and  the  Nervia,  contain  a  large  number  of  sulphur  springs, 
but  the  flow  is  too  insignificant,  and  the  sulphurous  matter 
in  solution  too  small  in  quantity,  to  make  it  practicable 
to  turn  them  to  any  account. 

I  give  below  an  analysis  made  in  1820  by  Signer  Mojon, 
the  analytical  chemist  of  Genoa,  ns  to  the  properties  con- 
taiued  in  the  water  of  the  springs  of  Giunchetto,  which 
flow  from  the  side  of  Montenero,  close  to  the  Madomia 
della  Ruota : 

Sulphate  of  Ume         00*003 

Chloride  of  calcium 00 '001 

Chloride  of  sudium      00*004 

Sulpho-carbonate  of  lime 00*003 

Water 09*989 

10*000 


280 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


CHAPTER  11. 


THE   FAUNA   OF    LIGURIA. 


Poverty  of  tlie  South  as  rei^ards  animnl  life— Mammalia — Birds  of 
passage — Featliered  game — Reptile.-,  aim  i-.n  lacliiaris,  ^ItHliterraoeao 
fish — Insects  :  the  seoritiou,  the  tire-liy,  the  ciijole — Le[)itlt>i>tera. 

The  fauna  of  tbe  Mediterranean  coast  is  as  poor  as  its 
flora  is  rich. 

Whilst  in  Northern  Europe  the  woods  and  forests  re- 
echo in  the  spring  with  the  carols  of  innumerable  birds, 
the  marshes  swarm  with  wild  fowl  and  the  rivers  witli  tish, 
in  this  district  tlie  naturalist  is  painfully  struck  by  the 
absence  of  animal  life  of  everv  kind. 

m 

The  causes  of  this  absence,  which  is  found  throughout 
the  whole  of  Southern  Europe,  are  not  difficult  to  discover. 
One's  first  thoughts  would  naturally  be,  that  in  so  lovely  a 
climate,  so  especially  suited  to  open-air  life,  wild  animals 
would  exist  under  extraordinary  favourable  conditions ; 
that  they  would  be  attracted  in  great  numbers  to  a  region 
where  they  would  escape  not  only  from  the  frosts,  but 
from  the  damp  of  the  countries  of  the  North. 

But  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  summer  Itads  to  an 
opposite  result.  Tlie  small  earnivora  are  rare  because 
their  prey,  the  birds  and  larg(3  insects,  disappear  during 
part  of  the  year ;  whilst  the  herbivora,  sucli  as  tlie  rabbit 
and  liare,  have  difficulty  in  finding  food  on  the  scorched 
hills  of  Liguria  during  the  months  of  July  and  August. 
And  the  case  is  almost  similar  with  tlie  birds;  for  in  the 
summer  the  extreme  dryness  of  the  country  drives  away 
the  insects,  thus  forcing  tlie  inseetivora  to  migrate  else- 


FAUNA. 


281 


\ 


where,  whilst  the  granivora  find  but  little  to  satisfy 
their  hunger  in  a  country  covered  with  olive  plantations. 
And  as  if  this  was  not  sufficient,  man  steps  in  to  make 
desolation  complete.  "  La  Chasse"  carried  on  as  it  is  in 
the  South,  has  no  doubt  contributed  enormously  to  diminish 
the  number  of  the  smaller  birds,  and  this  wanton  massacre 
is  to  be  regretted  from  more  than  one  point  of  view.  But 
what  else  can  be  the  result,  when  everyone  is  anxious  to  be 
a  sportsman,  and  game  does  not  exist  ?  It  is  but  natural, 
under  such  circumstances,  to  fall  back  upon  anything  that 
has  wings,  and  not  even   to   spare  the  tomtits  and  the 

wrens  ! 

The  Mammalia  of  this  district  in  the  present  day  are  en- 
tirely devoid  of  interest.  The  brown  bear  of  the  Alps,  the 
wolf  and  the  lynx,  formerly  abounded  in  these  mountains; 
the  two  last  still  existed  at  the  commencement  of  this 
century  in  tlie  woods  of  Montenero  above  Bordighera,  but 
they  have  entirely  disapiteared  for  a  long  time  past. 

The  small  birds  which  are  found  are  the  chaffinch,  the 
siskin,  the  goldfinch,  the  warblers,  the  water-wagtails, 
the  thrushes,  and  others;  these  which  in  nortliern  countries 
remain  the  whole  of  the  year,  pass  over  this  coast  in  the 
spring  on  their  journey  to  the  extreme  north  of  Europe, 
returning  again  in  the  autumn,  en  route  to  their  winter 
quarters  in  Centi  al  Africa.  Spring  time,  always  delightful 
in  the  south  of  Europe,  owes  at  least  one  of  its  attractions 
to  these  songsters,  especially  the  nightingales  and  chaf- 
finches, who  fill  the  olive  woods  with  their  melodies  during 
the  months  of  April  and  May. 

Amongst  the  birds  of  passage  of  an  interesting  character 
we  may  notice  the  golden-oriole  {Oriolis  galbula),  the 
hoopoe  {Uiwpa  epops),  several  herons,  and  amongst  others 


282 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


which  do  not  migrate,  the  bhie  thrush  {Turdus  cijamus\ 
who  biiihl  their  iiests  even  in  the  roofs  of  inhabited  houses, 
the  serecch-owl  {Buho  maximus),  tlic  hirgest  of  European 
owls,  and  wliich  is  coiunioniii  the  mountains,  mnny  falcons, 
amongst  others  the  bee-eater  (Penm  a])ivorus),  and  the 
royal  eagle  (Aquila  fidva). 

Winged  game  is  neither  varied  nor  abundant,  except 
quails,  which  in  certain  years  on  their  fliglit  (coming  from 
or  returning  to  Africa,)  settle  in  enormous  numbers  along 
the  whole  length  cf  the  coast.  The  wild  duck,  the  black 
diver,  the  teal,  sliow  themselves  from  time  to  time  at  the 
mouths  of  the  torrents,  and  a  f<nv  red-legged  partridges 
still  exist  in  the  moorland  amongst  the  hills.  The  heath- 
cock,  who  is  a  perfect  epicure  for  wliurtlc-berries,  is 
occasionally  met  with  in  tlie  high  valleys  of  the  Maritime 

Alps. 

Among  the  reptiles  it  isliardly  ne<  -  iry  to  mention  the 
beautiful  lizards  {Lacerta  viridis),  so  well  known  to  all 
visitors  to  the  Suuth  of  Europe,  sometimes  eighti  en  inches 
in  length,  which  are  found  among  the  brushwood  on  the 
hills,  the  common  wall-lizard  {Lacerla  uufralis),  several 
handsome  snake^,  <  specially  Zamenis  rh'ilijiavus  and  the 
viper,  common  in  the  mountains.  The  <  J  reek  tortoise  is 
indigenous  in  Liguria  as  throughout  the  whole  of 
Southern  and  Central  Italy,  but  it  is  at  the  present  time 
rarely  found  in  a  wild  state.  Placed  at  liberty  in  a 
garden  it  thrives  well,  and  breeds  freely  without  any  look- 
ing after. 

The  Batraehians  are  repres  nted  by  the  graceful  sala- 
man.ler  {Salarmndra  maculosa)  which  lives  in  the  rocks 
an  I  in  the  crevices  of  old  walls,  and  whicli  the  commou 
people    erroneously    tliink    venomous;    but    still    more 


FAUNA, 


283 


markedly  by  the  pretty  little  green  tree  frog  (Hyla 
viridis),  the  peculiar  croaking  of  which  will  not  fail  to  at- 
tract the  attention  of  the  freshly  arrived  visitor,  especially 
in  the  summer  months ;  and  it  is  one  of  the  signs  of 
spring,  well  known  to  all  who  have  wintered  on  the  Kiviera, 
when  the  harsh  "  croak,  croak  "  is  first  heard  on  a  March 
or  April  evening.* 

The  JMediterranean  is  far  from  containing  as  much  fish 
as  the  seas  of  Northern  Europe,  although,  on  the  other 
hand,  it  presents  us  with  a  larger  number  of  species. 
Several  sharks,  the  sword-fish  and  the  tunny  fish  are 
amongst  the  largest  that  swim  in  its  waters,  but  they  are 
not  met  with  to  any  great  extent  in  either  the  Gulf  of 
Lyons  or  of  Genoa.  Amongst  the  small  fish,  suitable  for 
tlie  table,  are  the  anchovy  and  the  sardine,  which  take  the 
first  place  ;  following  them  are  the  loii}),  the  dorade,  and 
red  and  white  mullets,  &c.,  but  all  are  not  only  inferior  in 
size  but  in  quality,  when  compared  with  those  caught 
either  in  the  Atlantic  or  English  Channel. 

The  class  of  insects  ofters  a  far  more  interesting  field  to 
the  naturalist  than  any  other  division  of  the  animal 
kingdom.  The  European  scorpion  is  very  common,  but 
his   sting,   although    very    painful,   is  not   dangerous  or 

fatal. 

The  Coleoptera  are  richly  rt  presented :  amongst  the 
most  interesting  species  I  may  mention  the  Sacred  Beetle 
of  ancient  Egypt  (Ateuehus  sarer),  wliich  one  sees  on  every 
road  during  the  spring,  hard  at  work  rolling  his  bull  of 
manure. 

♦  It  was  to  silence  this  croaking  (something  terrible  when  a  large  number 
arP  collected  together)  that  the  old  feudal  nobles,  prior  to  the  Revolution  of 
1788,  kept  the  peasants  the  whole  night  through  beating  the  marshes  around 
their  chateaux. — A.  C.  D. 


284 


NATURAL   HISTOIIY. 


FAUNA. 


285 


III  ii|i 


The  Firefly  or  "luciole"  (Phosphoenus  hemipterm), 
appears  in  extraordiiiaiy  numbers  io  the  mouth  of  Ai)ril, 
disappearing  again  at  the  end  of  l^Iay,  and  notliiug  strikes 
a  stranger  so  much,  or  leaves  so  Listing  an  impression  on 
his  mind  "  of  the  simny  soutli,"  as  an  hour  i)assed  some 
lovely  spring  evening  in  a  Ligurian  garden. 


t( 


.  .  .  Wliere  the  flower  of  tlie  oran2:e  Ii1«a\s, 

Jind  the  fire-flies  gUuice  throiit^h  tht-  niMtl.'  1.  >n.'L<." 


The  Cigale  is  another  characteristic  insect  of  the 
south;  it  sings  on  every  tree  during  miilsummer,  but  it 
is  only  lieard  during  the  hottest  hours  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful days. 

"  Sole  sul)  ardent i  irsoiimit  ;irl>nst;i  cicndis." 
"  Under  the  buniing  siui,  tlie  woods  it'-i-cn*.  witii  the  ci^rdc's  sonir/' 

Virgil. 

The  order  of  Lepidoptera  will  afford  a  rich  harvest  to 
the  collector  in  tlie  gardens  and  on  the  hills  of  Lii>uria 
during  tlie  months  of  April,  31ay,  and  June. 

The  motlis,  however,  an'  not  particularly  interesting, 
the  most  remarkable  being  the  g\^iix\i\Q  Bomhjx  pavonia 
major  and  Bomhyx  2)roeessionaria,  whose  caterpillars  live 
in  colonies  of  thousands  together  on  tlic  branches  of  the 
Maritime  Pine.  But  the  diurnal  and  crepuscular  Lepi- 
doptera are  well  w^orthy  of  tlie  attention  of  all  admirers  of 
this  attractive  division  of  the  animal  kin-dom.  I  there- 
foresubioin  an  annotated  cataloirneof  the  n.ost  intorostin'^ 
species  peculiar  to  the  south,  which  the  ainateiir  aurelian 
may  expect  to  take  on  the  Kivieni.  An  asterisk  dis- 
tinguishes those  rarer  British  sp(  ci(  s  which  I  have 
thouglit  advisable  to  mention. 


PAPILIONIDiE. 

Pajnlio  Fo'IaliriiL^,  (*)  Linn.,  Scarce  Swallow-tail. 
Machcion,  (*)  Linn.,  Common  Swallow-tail. 
„       Al€xa7wr,  Esj)er. 

Podalirius  and  Machao)i  are  abundant  everywhere 
throughout  the  summer.  Alexanor  is  a  small  species 
very  Timilar  to  Machaon,  abundant  in  the  French  depart- 
ments of  the  Hautes  and  Basses  Alpes,  Probably  occurs 
among  our  mountains. 

Thais  hupsipile,  Fabricius. 
„      7nedi8io(stu,  Godart. 

An  exclusively  Mediterranean  genus.  The  strange  and 
brilliant  marking  of  the  wings  gives  the  insect  a  peculiarly 
tropical  appearance.  Eypdpile  is  fond  of  marshy  woods, 
and  is  abundant  in  those  along  the  coast  near  Pisa. 
Medisicasta  frequents  upland  valleys. 

Parnasius  Apollo  of  authors. 

Mnemosyne  of  authors. 

Apollo  is  a  doubtful  British  species,  but  common  in  most 
alpine  regions,  the  caterpillar  feeding  on  saxifrage  and 
Crassulacem,  Mnemosyne  is  a  smaller  species  without  the 
ocelli  of  Apollo ;  will  probably  be  found  in  the  mountains. 

Gonepterix  rhamrn  {*)  of  authors,  Brimstone  Butterfly. 
„         Cleopatra  of  authors. 

Both  common  in  the  early  spring. 

CoUas  edusa,  (*)  Linn.,  Clouded  Yellow. 
„    htjale,  (*)  Linn.,  Pale  Clouded  Yellow. 

Common  in  autumn. 


286 


i|i 


NATURAL    niSTUlJY. 


NYMPHALIDiE. 


FAUNA. 


287 


All  the  British  Frifillan'es  are  probably  to  be  met  with 
on  the  coast,  as  also  the  handsome  and  exclusively 
soutliern  A,  DdpJine,  roinnioii  ou  the  nioiuitaius  near 
Toulon. 

All  the  British  spet-ies  of  the  g*'nii.s  Vanessc  -.m^ 
abundant  on  tht;  Itiviera.  V.  Aidiopu  and  Atalarda  (lied 
Admiral)  may  often  be  noticed  on  tlie  wing  in  wintir. 


Ct/nthia  ciiidui,  {*)  !''i>  i'i"i 


rain  ted  Lady. 


ij 


The  Painted  Lady,  so  remarkable  for  its  migratory 
habits  and  world-wide  habitat,  may  always  be  taken 
plentifully  on  the  Eiviera ;  but  from  time  to  time  it 
appears  in  spring  in  enormous  numbers,  and  may  be 
noticed  in  swarms  on  the  waste  lands,  where  there  are 
plants  of  Tijrimmis  hucograflms.  It  has  been  asserted 
that  these  flights  of  butterflies  come  over  from  Africa,  but 
the  assertion  requires  proof.  At  any  rate,  the  wings  of 
the  individuals  that  compose  them  are  generally  sufti- 
ciently  damaged  to  justify  the  idea.  (7.  Levana  is  a 
soutliern  species. 

Liminitis  Camilla  (*)  of  authors.     White  Admiral. 
„         Syhilla,  Linn. 

The  latter  probably  in  the  valley  of  the  Nervia  and 
similar  localities.  The  Wh'te  Admiral  is  not  rare  in 
gardens. 

Xepfis  Luciliaf  Fabricius. 

A  tropical  type.  Not  rare  in  Piedmont;  probably  in 
our  inland  valleys  such  as  the  neighbourhood  of  Albenga. 


Apatura  h  is  (*)  of  antliors.     riiri)le  Emperor. 
„        ///'/,  Fabricius. 

These  splendid   insects  are  perhaps  less  rare  than  is 
commonly  supposed,  from  their  habit  of  flying  high. 

Nuiiiphalis  JaslnSj  Fabricius. 

TLe  .-  -ropiJ  .y,»  o<  ...  E„o,.«n  Le,.id,pte,.. 

The  caterpillar  feeds  ou  the  Ar-hutus  unedo.  This  mag- 
nificent butterfly  is  common  in  Provence,  and  especially 
at  Hyeres.  It  may  probably  occur  on  our  Montenero, 
which,  like  the  hills  of  llyeres,  is  covered  with  arbutus. 

The  vast  group  of  butterflies  composing  the  tribe  of  the 
Satyriclm,  genera  Satyrus,  Erehia,  Eipimrchia,  &c.,  distin- 
guished by  eye-like  spots  on  the  wings  and  sober  colours, 
forms  alone  more  than  one-third  of  the  diurnal  Lepidoptera 
of  Europe.  They  are  neither  peculiarly  interesting  nor 
very  abundant  in  this  region,  their  favourite  habitats 
being   damp   and  shady   woods  or  alpine  meadows   and 

heaths. 

The  following  species  belong  to  the  south  of  Europe : 

Erebia  ceto,  Hubner. 

„       epistygne  „ 
Satyrus  adcea,  Esper. 

cordidciy  Fabricius. 
fidkiy  Linn. 
Circe^  Fab. 
eudora  „ 
Jda,  Esi^er. 
Fasqjhae  ,, 


» 


Erycinid^. 
This  family  is  composed  of  small  but  richly  coloured 
butterflies,  the  Blues,  Coppers,  and  Eair-strealcs  of  the 


288 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


FAUNA. 


289 


n 
n 


English  aureliaiis.     The  following  species  may  be  quoted 
as  belonging  to  tlie  ]\Ie(literranean  region : 

Lycmna  td'i'^"u>'^,  IIerl»st. 
aha 6,  i  aU. 
melanopfij  Pxtisiluval. 
mekii'j*  i\  Ks|.er. 
Joh(8f  i  Uliseiilieimer. 

haft  us,  Fa  I). 
eiimedony  Esper. 
Thecia  wscidi,  Hiibiier. 
„     evqypus,  Hliger. 
Folyormnafus  hallm,  Fab. 


HESPERIDiE. 

The  Shippers  are  a  small  group  of  insects  which  many- 
authors  have  considered  as  a  connecting  link  between  the 
true  butterflies  and  the  Sphinges  or  hawk-motlis.  The 
following  belong  to  the  region : 

Jksperis  nosfmdamus,  Fab. 
tyyrichtus  &ida>.  Fab. 

saoy  Huliiicr. 

proto,  Ochseiiheimer. 


»» 


»» 


Sesii. 

A  remarkable  family,  on  account  of  the  resemblance  its 
members  bear  to  hymenopterous  insects.  Indeed,  most 
of  the  Sesii,  when  on  the  wing,  may  be  taken  for  large 
wasps,  hornets,  or  wild  bees.  The  following  are  indicated 
as  peculiar  to  the  ]M  editor  ran  ean  coast : 

Sesia  hrosifoniiis,  Hubner, 
meUiniformia,  Laspeyre. 
rhingiceformisj  Hubner. 


Sphinges. 

The  magnificent  family  of  the  Hawk-moths  is  nowhere 
more  richly  represented  than  in  the  gardens  of  Liguria, 
where  in  the  short  twilight  of  summer  evenings  they  may 
be  noticed  poising  their  graceful  forms  over  every  flower. 
Besides  the  well-known  British  species,  including  the 
Death's  Head,  Acherontia  atropos,  whose  caterpillars  may 
be  found  in  every  potato  field,  I  may  note  the  following 
as  interesting  insects : 

Macroglossa  steUatarum,  (*)  Linn.,  Humming  Bird. 

A  rare  British  Sphinx,  of  diurnal  habits.  Abundant  all 
over  the   south  of  Europe,  where  it  often  survives  the 

winter. 

Deilejphila  Nicma,  Depruner. 

„         eupJiorhice,  Linn. 

Two  very  fine  insects ;  caterpillars  on  various  Euphorbim, 
especially  E.  dendroides  on  the  mountains  near  Nice. 

DeUephila  esvloe,  Boisduval. 
Common,  especially  in  Tuscany. 

Deilephila  vespertilio,  Fab. 
„         celeriSy  Linn. 

Mountains  of  the  South  of  France. 


u 


(    290    ) 


FLORA. 


291 


CHAPTEK  III. 

THE  FLORA  OF   LIGUEIA. 

Difference  between  the  Flora  of  Northern  an<l  Southern  Eurore- 
Richness  of  the  Ligurian  Flora-Depreciations  by  collectors  and 
^i,itors-Extinct  siiecies-Gardening  in  Liguria- Annotated  cata- 
logue of  interesting  plants. 

The  flora  of  Southern  Europe  is  distinguished  from  those 
of  the  north  by  the  larger  proportion  of  herbaceous  plants. 
Whilst  in  the  northern  countries,  subject  as  they  are  to 
frost  and  extreme  cold,  shrubs  and  trees,  and  these  mostly 
deciduous,  are  in  the  majority,  in  the  tropics  the  contrary 
is  the  case.  This  modification  of  the  character  of  the 
vegetation,  which  continues  regularly  as  we  journey  from 
north  to  south,  is  already  very  apparent  in  these  latitudes, 
for  our  shrubs  and  trees,  almost  all  evergreens,  form  but 
a  small  proportion  of  the  flora  of  the  coast. 

So  it  is  amongst  the  herbaceous  plants  that  the  pedes- 
trians of  our  winter  colony  who  love  flowers  will  find  the 
richest  harvest,  will  discover  those  which  are  most  brilliant 
and  perhaps  most  strange  to  them  : 

"Those  stars,  which  on  earth's  finnanient  do  sliine." 

It  is  the  anemones,  the  tulips,  the  narcissi,  and  the 
orchids  of  our  valleys  which  will  especially  delight  visitors 
ani  cause  them  to  realise,  as  never  before,  the  words  of 
our  Lord :  «  Consider  the  lilies  of  the  field  ;  for  I  say  unto 
you  that  even  Solomon  in  all  his  glory  was  not  arrayed 

like  one  of  these." 

Few  countries  ofi'er  to  the  botanist  and  lover  of  flowers 


a  field  of  research  so  rich  as  Liguria,  and  I  may  mention  a 
striking  illustration  of  this. 

According  to  MM.  Gilly  and  Magne,  the  flora  of  France 
is  composed  of  about  5600  species  of  vascular  plants,  which 
gives  a  mean  of  about  1300  species  to  each  department. 
In  order,  however,  to  meet  with  these  5600  plants  of 
France,  it  is  necessary  to  traverse  the  whole  length  and 
breadth  of  that  extensive  country,  from  the  Alps  to  the 
Pyrenees,  from  the  English  Channel  to  the  Mediterranean. 
But  the  large  valleys  of  Liguria,  owing  to  their  peculiar 
topographical  position,  give  us  an  opportunity  of  passing 
in  a  few  hours  from  a  region  almost  sub-tropical  to  one 
lying  amongst  the  glaciers,  and  collecting  on  our  way  as 
many  as  2500  different  species,  which  succeed  each  other 
as  we  pass  upwards  from  the  sea  to  the  mountains,  in 
exactly  the  same  order  as  that  which  characterises  the 
transition,  district  by  district,  of  the  flora  of  the  south  to 
that  of  the  north.  It  is  thus  possible  to  gather  in  the 
mornmg  palm  leaves  on  the  scorched  rocks  of  the  coast, 
and  in  the  evening  of  the  same  day,  the  Edelweiss  on  the 
Col  di  Tenda.  * 

This  wonderful  richness  of  the  Ligurian  flora  becomes 
still  more  striking  if  we  compare  it  with  that  of  the 
British  Islands.  Notwithstanding  the  length  of  Great 
Britain  and  the  considerable  difference  of  climate  which 
exists  between  the  south  of  England  and  the  north  of 
Scotland,  the  most  diligent  collector,  were  he  to  travel 
from  the  Land's  End  to  John  o'Groat's  House,  would  fail 

*  The  dwarf  palm  (Chamcerops  humilis),  the  only  indigenous  representative 
of  the  palm  family  in  Europe,  still  grew  but  a  few  years  ago  on  the  steep  cliffs 
of  the  coast,  and  especially  at  Villa  Franca,  but  the  gardeners  and  florists  have 
completely  exterminated  it ! 

u  2 


FLORA. 


293 


292 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


in  meeting  with  more  tl.an  1708  species  ami  that 
according  to  the  highest  estimation,  Babington  s  Manual , 
whereas  other  authors  reduce  the  number  considerably : 
Hooker  and  Arnott's  Flora  contains  only  1571  flowering 
plants,  a  figure  not  equal  to  two-thirds  of  the  flora  of  this 

favoured  strip  of  country.  ,       ,     ^ 

But  this  flora,  so  rich,  so  beautiful,  and  so  abundant, 
is  unhappily  in  a  fair  way  to  lose  its  chief  attractions, 
owin-  to  the  ravages  of  our  winter  visitors,  especially  the 
plant"  collectors  and  botanists.  It  is  almost  impossible 
to  enumerate  the  number  of  species  which  have  either 
become  rare  or  entirely  disappeared  during^  the  last  few 
Years,  owing  to  this  mania  for  "  collecting."  * 

Besides  the  Dwarf  Palm  and  the  Peony,  once  so  common 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nice,  but  which  now  are  nothing 
but  memories,  the  beautiful  Tulipa  clusiana  is  becoming 
rare,  even  in  the  vicinity  of  Bordighcra,  and  has  already 
disappeared  from  the  fields  and  woods  around  Nice  and 
Mentone ;  the  magnificent  Pancratium  maritimum,  which 
once  covered  the  sandhills  of  this  neighbourhood,  no  longer 
exists  on  our  coast,  save  in  isolated  tufts ;  and  our  liliaceous 
plants,  our  orchids,  and  even  our  anemones,  the  dellata  and 

,  •  «  „=«£.r.i"allv    ire  becoming  more  and  more 

the  pavomna  especially,  art-  uei-ummj, 

difiicult  to  discover. 

This  rapid  extermination  of  rare  and  beautiful  wi  d 
flowers,  which  one  cannot  sufiiciently  deplore,  is  mainly 

.  This  selfish  custom,  an.l  the  result  which  follows,  is  not,  alas,  P^™''"  '■> 
the  Kiv  ra  The  vcar  of  a  country  ,,arish  in  North  Devon  tells  me  that  the 
^  .  rLautifu.  a.,-ns,  which  were  formerly  found  in  -ry  lane   -  e, 

/.    .  J.  .,.;^,,  fi-Am  PTactlv  a  sim  lar  caHse.     During  the  montnsoi 

irone  or  fast  disappearing,  from  exacuy  a  »»"'  ,    -   ,-      vu  ^.r^torintr 

Zj  and  Augustle  visitors  to  the  neighbouring  town  (.  n.sh.onabh=  wate.  ng 
pUce)  sweep  the  lanes  a„,l  wood,  of  the  district  l.ke  locusts,  and  w.th  the 
8ftm«  result. — A.  C.  D. 


\ 


due  to  the  habit  of  those  seeking  flowers  of  pulling  them 
up  by  the  roots.  By  all  means  pluck  the  flowers  which 
adorn  our  woods  and  fields :  you  have  every  right  to  do 
so,  for  it  is  for  you  they  open  their  gorgeous  blossoms ;  but 
in  the  name  of  that  consideration  which  each  of  us  owes  to 
Hs  neighbour,  respect  the  roots  which  do  not  belong  to  you. 
Do  not  wantonly  destroy  that  which  is  useless  to  your- 
self, but  is  one  of  the  chief  attractions  possessed  by 
Liguria  in  the  eyes  of  all  lovers  of  Nature. 

But  if  the  botanist  is  filled  with  wonder  and  delight 
by  the  richness  of  the  Ligurian  flora,  the  agriculturist  of 
the  north,  who  comes  for  the  first  time  to  our  coast,  is  no 
less  struck  by  the  manner  in  which  the  cultivation  of  the 

soil  is  carried  on. 

The  division  of  the  land  into  extensive  farms,  with  large 
ploughed  fields,  protected  from  the  north  wind  by  thick 
hedges  and  copses,  so  characteristic  of  the  landscape  of 
Grett  Britain,  gives  place  in  Liguria  to  forests  of  olive 
woods  (which  deck  the  hills  with  a  mantle  of  greyish 
green),  and  to  groves  of  lemon  and  orange  trees. 

In  the  market  gardens,  too,  the  same  difference  may  be 
noticed  :  the  tomato,  the  egg  plant,  the  gourd,  the  prickly 
artichoke,  take  to  a  great  extent  the  place  of  the  familiar 
vegetables  of  the  north ;  whilst  the  dog  mercury,  the 
capuchin  arum,  several  peculiar  sedges,  the  narcissus  and 
the  wild  garlics  over-run  and  choke  our  crops,  instead  of 
the  groundsel,  the  dock,  and  the  nettle. 

The  peculiar  fruit  and  vegetables  which  characterise  the 
gardens  of  the  Mediterranean  region  in  autumn,  and  the 
abundance  of  certain  flowering  plants  difficult  to  cultivate 
in  the  north,  but  which  grow  like  weeds  on  this  coast, 
frequently  mislead  visitors  into  the  idea  that  gardening 


FLORA. 


295 


294 


NATUBAL  HISTORY. 


must  be  cbikrs  play  in  so  fine  a  climate.    This  is,  how- 
ever, a  serious  mistake. 

The  coast  of  the  gulfs  of  Genoa  and  Lyons  in  general, 
and  the  neighbourhood  of  Bordighera  in  particular,  are 
certainly  exempt  from  the  late  frosts  and  rainy  summers 
which  often  render  horticulture  so  unsatisfactory  in  the 
north ;  but  the  southern  gardener  has  to  contend  with 
other  and  by  no  means  less  serious  difficulties,  first  and 
foremost  among  which  stand  the  burning  sun  and  the 
dry  summer.  Continual  and  often  expensive  watering  is 
necessary ;  and  this  combination  of  sun  and  water  has 
naturally  the  effect  of  pushing  vegetation  on  too  rapidly. 
All  plants  show  a  tendency  to  flower  and  go  to  seed  before 
they  have  attained  the  development  necessary  to  insure  an 

abundant  crop. 

This  is  especially  true  of  those  annual  vegetables  wliich 
belong  properly  to  northern  countries,  such  as  all  the 
varieties  of  cabbage  and  cauliflower,  the  pea,  bean,  &c. 
These  are  cultivated  in  Liguria  under  difficulties  just  as 
great,  only  of  a  different  kind,  as  tliose  which  attend  the 
raising  of  the  tomato,  the  custard  apple,  and  other  southern 
delicacies  in  northern  climates.  Perennials,  such  as  the 
artichoke,  asparagus.  Sec,  do  better,  on  account  of  the 
advantage  afforded  by  their  permanent  root-stocks ;  but 
vegetables  of  both  these  classes  can  be  obtained  (with  the 
exception  of  the  French  bean),  only  in  winter  and  early 

spring. 

The  summer  vegetables  which  are  peculiar  to  the  south, 
Buch  as  the  tomato,  the  auhergine  or  egg-plant,  and  the 
numerous  varieties  of  custard-apple  and  pumpkin,  grow 
luxuriantly  and  produce  abundantly  where  well  watered, 


\l 


but  are  nevertheless  subject  to  many  mishaps,  the  most 
dangerous  of  which  is  exposure  to  the  burning  sun  when 
wet.  Hence  it  is  necessary,  for  the  tomato  especially,  to 
irrigate  the  plants  by  conducting  the  water  to  their  roots 
in  rivulets,  with  the  greatest  care  not  to  wet  the  stems  or 
leaves.  Rain  in  summer  is  extremely  prejudicial  on  this 
account.  I  have  known  whole  crops  of  the  tomato  de- 
stroyed in  half-an-hour  by  a  thunder  shower  on  a  hot  day 

in  June.  ,         <•  n 

The  fruit  of  Liguria  may  be  enumerated  as  tollows : 
The  vine,  which,  however,  and  probably  on  account  of  the 
vicinity  of  the  sea,  does  not  thrive  as  well  as  in  the  inland 
provinces;  the  peach,  which  thrives  to  perfection  and  may 
be  reckoned  the  finest  fruit  of  the  country,  although  wmter 
visitors  never  see  it  to  advantage,  as  the  best  varieties 
ripen  in  August.   Tlie  cherry  bears  freely ;  the  apricot  and 
the  plum  more  sparingly  ;  apples  are  a  failure,  the  drought 
causin-  the  fruit  to  fall  before  maturity ;  pears,  the  winter 
varieties  especially,  do  fairly.  The  Japan  medlar  (Mesj^ilm 
jafonica),  introduced  some  thirty  years  ago,  now  grows 
like  an  indigenous  tree  all  over  the  South  of  Europe,  and 
its  juicy  fruit  are  highly  appreciated  in  June.    But  the 
really  characteristic  fruit  of  Liguria,  after  the  orange  tribe 
mentioned  further  on,  is  the  fig,  the  endless  varieties  of 
which,  fresh  in  autumn,  dried  in  winter,  form  a  staple 
article  of  food  for  the  lower  classes.    Small  fruit,  such  as 
the  strawberry,  raspberry,  currants,  &c.,  are  difficult  to 
cultivate  except  in  shady  valleys. 

Flower  gardening  is  subject  to  the  same  difficulties  as 
the  cultivation  of  vegetables.  Many  of  the  familiar 
herbaceous  flowering  plants  of  northern  gardens  will  not 


\\ 


296 


MATURAL   HISTORY. 


grow  at  all,  and  those  that  will,  go  to  seed  with  despairing 
rapidity.  A  few  annuals,  such  as  EschoUzia  calif ornica, 
Linum  grandiflorwn,  Maholmia  maritima,  and  some 
others,  if  sown  in  September,  will  make  a  g.)0(l  show  in 
March  and  April,  but  they  are  inevitably  burnt  up  by  the 
sun  of  May  and  June.  Indeed,  from  the  middle  of  June  to 
the  beginning  of  September,  planting  and  sowing  is  next 
to  impossible,  the  most  a  gardener  can  do  being  to  keep 
his  plants  alive  by  abundant  watering. 

The  operation  of  "bedding  out,"  with  geraniums  and 
verbenas  so  familiar  to  northern  horticulturists,  is  im- 
practicable in  this  climate.  The  geranium  of  all  varieties 
grows  like  a  weed,  and  the  plants  attain  an  enormous 
size.  The  verbena  flowers  freely,  but  however  ricldy 
coloured  be  the  varieties  planted,  they  will  inevitably 
return  under  the  action  of  the  sun,  and  sometimes  even 
during  the  first  summer,  to  the  original  pink  of  the  wild 
flower.  The  verbena  is  also  extremely  sensitive  to  water 
on  the  leaves,  a  shower  followed  by  hot  sunshine  being 
generally  fatal  to  the  plants. 

The  anemone  and  its  congeners,  and  all  liliaceous  plants 
thrive  and  flower  freely,  but  they  degenerate  rapidly. 

The  reader  will  easily  gather  from  what  precedes,  that 
between  the  constant  care  and  watering  and  the  frequent 
renewal  of  plants  necessary  to  insure  a  show  of  flowers, 
anything  like  an  attempt  at  high-class  gardening  becomes 
an  expensive  undertaking.  Hence  it  follows  that  pro- 
prietors of  moderate  means,  or  who  do  not  care  to  take 
much  trouble  with  their  gardens,  should  limit  their  atten- 
tion principally  to  flowering  shrubs  and  herbaceous 
perennials,  especially  those  introduced  from  Japan,  Poly- 
nesia,   South    Africa,  Mexico,  and    other   intermediate 


FLORA. 


297 


climates.      These  give  but    little   trouble,  and  if  well 
disposed  will  produce  a  fine  sub-tropical  effect. 

Those  who  wish  to  study  in  detail  the  very  interesting 
flora  of  this  coast,  will  find  a  large  number  of  excellent 
works  to  aid  them,  of  which  I  may  especially  mention  the 
Flore  Frangaise  of  MM.  GiUy  and  blague,  and  the  Flore 
des  Alpes  Maritimes  of  M.  H.  Ardoino  of  Mentone.     I  will 
therefore  only  place  before  my  readers  a  list,  with  a  few 
remarks   subjoined,  of  the  plants,  wild  and   cultivated, 
which  I  think  likely  to  interest  the  majority  of  our  winter 
visitors      But  this  list  does  not  by  any  means  claim  to  be 
a  complete  catalogue  of  the  flora  of  the  district ;  it  is 
merelv  a  resumS,  and  a  very  simple  and  condensed  one,  of 
those 'flowers  which  the  botanist  and  pedestrian  may  not 
only  look  for,  but  hope  to  find. 

Ranunculace^,  the  Ranunculus  Family. 
This  beautiful  family,  the  varied  character  of  which  has 
caused  it  to  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  vegetable  series, 
is  nowhere  more  richly  represented  than  in  the  south  of 

Europe. 

However,  the  true  ranumuU  or  Mea^low  Buttercups 

offer  no  point  of  interest  in  this  neighbourhood. 

Seventeen  different  species  are  found ;  they  abound  in 
the  marshv  fields  near  the  mouths  of  the  torrents,  the 
Banmculus  lulhosus  or  Bulbous  Crowfoot  being  the  com- 
monest. 

Adonis  cBstivalis,  Pheasant's  Eye. 

This  little  flower  is  only  remarkable  for  the  brilliant 
scarlet  of  its  petals,  its  extremely  finely  lanceolate  leaves, 
^vhich  are  marked  like  a  finely  plaited  thong,  and  for  its 


298 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


FLORA. 


299 


being  one  of  the  rare  flowers  to  be  found  (luring  the 
height  of  summer. 

Clematis  vitalha*  Old  Man's  Beard. 
„       flammula. 

These  two  species  of  the  Clematis  are  common;  the 
former  abounds  in  the  hedges  and  amongst  the  brush- 
wood in  shady  places,  and  the  latter  on  the  rocks 
and  cliffs.  This  last  has  a  fragrant  scent.  May  and 
June. 

An^none  core naria, 
cyanea. 
jmvonina. 
hortensis. 
stdlata. 


1* 


ft 


The  anemones  are  one  of  the  glories  of  our  southern 
flora;  they  flower  from  January  to  March.  I  have 
noticed  five  species,  although  most  writers  on  this  subject 
reduce  them  to  four.  The  A.  cyanea  is  generally  consi- 
dered a  variety  of  the  A,  coronaria,  but  the  distinctive 
characteristics  are  constant,  and  the  two  species  never 
mingle.  The  four  first  abound  in  our  neighbourhood,  but 
the  hortensis,  though  common  in  the  environs  of  Nice,  is 
rare  east  of  Monaco.  The  A.  alpina,  var.  sulfurea,  abounds 
on  the  mountain  pastures  above  a  height  of  3000  feet,  and 
blossoms  in  May.  The  A  stellata  is  only  met  with  in  the 
valley  of  the  Nervia. 

Hepatica  triloba.  Blue  Hepatica. 

The  blue  variety  only,  and  that  rare. 

*  This  will  be  most  familiar  to  English  readers  ai  the  "  wild  clematis."— 

A.  \j»  ■L'. 


\ 
I 


»» 


>f 


»» 


nellebonis  niger,  Christmas  Rose. 
„        foetidus,  Bear V foot. 

The  E.  niger  or  Christmas  Rose  was  formerly  found  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Nice;  the  K  foetidus  or  "Fetid 
Hellebore,"  of  classic  memory,  is  common  in  the  beds  of 
torrents  :  flower  in  winter. 

Ni'jilhi  damascena,  Love  in  a  Mist,  or  Devil  in  a  Bush. 

This  plant,  remarkable  for  the  curious  shape  of  its 
blossom,  resembles  the  allspice  in  its  cultivated  state :  it 
flowers  in  June,  on  cultivated  ground. 

Aconltum  Napcllus,  Common  Monkshood. 
panicuhdtim. 
anthora. 
lycoctonum. 

The  Aconites  do  not  form  part  of  the  coast  flora,  but 
those  visitors  remaining  well  into  the  summer,  to  July, 
and  making  excursions  high  up  in  the  Apennines,  will 
find  the  four  species  I  have  enumerated. 

Pceonia  officimdls,  Common  Peony. 
The  peony  grew  formerly  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Nice, 
and  is  probably  now  found  in  our  secluded  valleys  :  flower 
in  summer. 

Papaverace^,  the  Poppy  Family. 

Paftaver  rhceasy  Common  Poppy. 

In  ploughed  land :  May  and  June. 

Papaver  setigerum. 
This  beautiful  species,  whose  large  violet-tinted  flowers 
give  it  a  resemblance  to  the  oriental  poppy  (P.  somni- 


300 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


ferMm),  has  not  been  noticed  in  the  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  Bordigliera,  but  it  is  common  on  other  points  of 
the  coast,  especially  at  Hyeres  and  Alassio. 

aiaucluni  luteum,  Yellow-horned  Poppy. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers  of  the  seacoast,  re- 
calling the  EsehoUzia  of  the  English  gardens:  spring  and 
autumn. 

FuMARiACEiE,  the  Fumitory  Family. 

Fumari  ifn,  Spiked  Fumitory. 

The  fumitories,  to  the  number  of  seven  or  eight  species, 
infest  the  fields  under  cultivation,  and  choke  the  crops. 

The  species  mentioned  above  is  one  of  the  finest,  and  is 
peculiar  to  the  south. 

CRUCiFERif],  the  Cnicifer  Family. 

Matthiola  trkuspidata,  Sea  Stock. 
A  pretty  gilly-flower,  with  lilac  blossoms  and  a  fragrant 
smell :  is  found  on  the  sands  and  beach  in  the  summer. 

Alyssnm  maritimum.  Sweet  Al3ssnin. 
A  pretty  little  sweet-smelling  plant,  with  white  blos- 
soms ;  it  is  found  everywhere  under  the  olive-wood,  and 
throughout  almost  the  whole  of  the  year. 

Capparide^,  the  Caper  Family. 

Capparis  sjpinosa,  Common  Caper. 

The  Caper  plant  is  not  a  native  of  Europe;  it  has 
been  brought  from  the  East,  like  so  many  of  the  alimen- 


FLORA. 


301 


m 


fary  plants,  probably  on  the  return  from  the  Crusades.  It 
is  cultivated  throughout  the  whole  of  the  south,  for  the 
sake  of  the  capers,  which  are  the  flower-buds  preserved  in 
vine-ar.  It  is  naturalised  all  over  Liguria,  but  is  not 
found  in  any  abundance  except  in  the  district  of  Koque- 
brune  between  Monaco  and  Mentone,  where  the  lofty 
walls  are  covered  with  its  beautiful  tufts.  The  flower  is 
remarkable  for  the  exceptional  length  of  the  stamens. 

The  Cistos  Family. 

Cistus  ulhidus.  Pink-leaved  Cistus. 

saloifolius,  Sage-leaved  Cistus. 

A  dozen  varieties  of  the  Cistus  family  are  included  in 
the  flora  of  the  Riviera,  but  the  two  indicated  above  are 
the  onlv  ones  which  are  found  to  any  extent  in  our 
neighbourhood.  The  C.  allidus,  or  Pink  Cistus,  with  its 
purple-pink  flowers,  grows  upon  the  barren  hillsides, 
flowering  in  May ;  the  C.  salvifolms,  or  White  Cistus, 
covers  the  beds  of  the  torrents  in  June,  with  its  milk- 
white  blossoms. 

Violace.t;,  the  Violet  Family. 

Viola  oihnitii,  Sweet  Violet. 
Is  it  necessary  to  describe  the  Violet,  which  carpets  the 
moist  places  under  the  olives,  and  scents  the  air  with  its 
sweet  perfume  as  early  as  December  ?  The  variety  with 
double  blossoms  (known  as  the  Parma  Violet)  is  cultivated 
for  perfumery  by  some  of  the  proprietors  of  Bordighera. 
The  Yellow  Violet  (Viola  lutea),  is  common  in  the  higher 
valleys  of  the  Apennines. 


302 


NATUBAL  HISTORY. 


FLORA. 


303 


RESEDACE.E,  Mignoncttes. 

Reseda  phyteuma. 

The  first  of  these  species  resembles  the  garden  Migno- 
nette in  all  except  the  scent ;  the  second  differs  consider- 
ably, and  the  flower  is  slightly  fragrant. 


Cabyophyllace^e,  the  Pink  Family. 

Bilene  hifl'da,  Bladder  Campion. 

These  two  species  abound  in  all  our  valleys,  but  the 
flora  of  our  coast  contains  no  less  than  twenty-two. 

Diantlms  cmihubianoru m . 

A  dozen  species  of  Wild  Pink  flourish  almost  all  the 
year  round  on  the  barren  hills. 

Saponaria  ocymoides.  Soap-wort. 

This  pretty  Soap-wort  is  rare  in  the  neighbourhood,  but 
it  abounds  at  Alassio  and  Nice. 


LINACE.E,  the  Flax  Family. 

Linum  gcklUcum. 

The  Wild  Flax,  of  which  there  are  about  twelve  species 
on  this  coast,  do  not  call  for  any  especial  remark ;  I  have, 
however,  mentioned  the  Linum  gallicum,  which  abounds 
in  the  neighbourhood,  as  it  is  considered  one  of  the  rarest 
of  French  flora. 


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j> 


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)5 


Malvaceae,  the  Mallow  Family. 

Lavatera  cretica. 
This   beautiful  mallow  covers  the   ground   under   the 
olives  with  its  pretty  pink  blossoms,  during  the  height  of 
the  summer. 

Hesperide^,  the  Citron  Family. 

Citrus  vulgaris.      Bitter  Orange-tree. 
aurantium,  Common 
myrti/oUa,  Mandarin 
sinensis,       Chinese 
limoniam,  Lemon-tree. 
limetta,  Bergamot. 
medica.  Citron-tree. 

The  orange  has  been  cultivated  from  the  very  earliest 
times  The  three  daughters  of  Atlas  and  Hesperis  had 
a  beautiful  garden  in  Mauritania  full  of  golden  apples, 
placed  under  the  guardianship  of  a  dragon  with  a 
hundred  heads.  Hercules,  by  the  order  of  Eurystheus, 
kin.^  of  Argos,  journeyed  to  the  garden  of  the  Hesperides, 
killed  the  dragon  and  carried  the  golden  apples  back  to 

This  classic  myth  is  interesting  as  showing  how  highly 
this  fruit  was  prized  even  in  the  earliest  times. 

In  more  modern  days,  the  Portuguese  appear  to  have 
brought  it  from  India  or  China,  and  from  this  cause  it  is 
now  not  unfrequently  called  Por^o^aWo  in  W  of  he 
Italian  provinces,  whilst  the  extract  which  >«  distiUed 
from  the  peel  in  France  is  even  yet  known  as  Essence  de 

^'Ftlm  the  Iberian  peninsula  it  spread  quickly  to  Italy: 


I 


304 


NATUBAI,   HISTORY. 


that  is,  to  the  two  Sicilies  and  Ligiiria,  and  the  merchant 
prinocs  of  Genoa  were  the  first  to  adorn  their  gardens  with 
its  golden  fruit.  There  was,  however,  one  solitary  orange- 
tree  in  France  in  the  year  1500,  which  had  been  brought 
from  Pampeluna,  the  capital  of  Navarre  ;  it  is  still  hvmg 
in  the  orangery  at  Versailles,  where  it  takes  the  highest 
rank  for  its  size  and  beauty  under  the  name  of  the  Grand 
cmnetahle  de  Bourbon.  Since  that  date  orangeries  have 
become  very  numerous  in  the  suburbs  around  Pans,  where 
the  most  beautiful  in  the  world  are  now  to  be  found, 
amongst  which  may  be  mentioned  those  of  Ferrieres  and 

The  beauty  of  the  orange-tree,  the  delicacy  of  its  foliage, 
the  grace  and  sweetness  of  its  flowers,  the  perfume  and 
beneficent  qualities  of  its  fruit,  cause  it  to  be  one  of  the 
most  valuable  as  well  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the 
floral  ornaments  of  our  globe.  ^    ^ 

The  orange-tree  lias  some  very  distinct  varieties:   we 
may  mention  the  Blood,  or  Maltese  orange,  so  called  from 
the  fact  that  its  juice  is  of  the  colour  of  blood :   and  also 
one  which  is  known  in  Italy  under  the  name  of  Aramw 
di  Leece,  which  has  the  peculiarity  that  the  oranges  are 
sweet  even  when  they  are  still  green.    This  variety,  though 
little  cultivated  at  present,  has  the  advantage  of  giving  us 
yery  early  oranges.     But  the  most   remarkable  variety, 
however,  of  this  superb  tree,  is  without  doubt  that  of  the 
Mandarin ;    its   shape,   its   foliage,  its  blossoms   and   its 
fruit  are  all  smaller  than  its  cougeners,  but  the  precocity  of 
this  variety  (which  ripens  about  the  commencement  of 
the  autumn),  its  sweetness,  its  delicacy,  and  the  ease  wjth 
which  its  peel  can  be  removed,  which  again  has  even  a 
sweeter  scent  than  that  of  the  common  orange,  causes  its 


FLORA. 


305 


cultivation  to  be  a  very  profitable  business.  The  Mandarin 
was  originally  brought  by  the  English  from  China,  where 
it  was  only  cultivated  in  the  gardens  of  the  great  digni- 
taries of  that  vast  empire.  The  first  attempt  at  cultivation 
took  place  at  Malta  and  resulted  in  a  great  success,  whilst 
in  Sicily  it  will  before  long  become  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant horticultural  industries  in  the  island. 

However,  even  in  1848,  this  fruit  was  far  from  common 
in  Europe:  it  was  only  at  the  chief  fruiterers  in  Paris  and 
London,  and  at  an  extremely  high  price,  that  it  was  to  be 

obtained. 

About  this  time  a  horticulturist  of  Marseilles  imported 
some  plants  of  this  beautiful  tree,  one  of  which  was  brought 
to  Bordighera,  from  which  place  it  passed  to  San  Eemo, 
to  Ventimiglia,  and  finally  to  Nice.     In  our  own  locality 
there  are  several  gardens  where  it  is  especially  and  scien- 
tifically cultivated,  and  where  it  has  attained  a  height  of 
over  12  feet,  and  bears  not  less  than  1000  oranges.     It  is 
however  necessary,  in  order  to  produce  thoroughly  satis- 
factory results  and  crops  of  a  first-rate  quality,  to  have 
considerable  depth  of  soil,  plenty  of  light  and  air— indeed, 
full  exposure  to  the  sun  is  most  necessary,  and  above  all 
plenty  of  water  during  the  extreme  heat  of  the  summer. 
We  may  add  also,  that  perhaps  there  is  no  place  in 
Europe  where  the  orange-tree  flourishes  more  satisfactorily 
than  at  Bordighera,  the  neighbourhood  of  which  requires 
but  little  to  transform  it  into  a  veritable  garden  of  Hespe- 
rides,  where  the  happy  Eurystheus  of  tlie  present  day 
could    pluck  these    luscious   fruits,  inhale   their  sweet 
perfume,  or  even  raise  a  glorious  palace  surrounded  by 
trees  laden  with  their  golden  burden.    It  is  impossible  for 
us  to  urge  too  strongly  upon  proprietors   in  this  beau- 


306 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


tiful  country  the  cultivation  of  the  common  orange-tree 
or  some  of  its  rarer  varieties,  and  we  trust  that  each 
year  a  larger  area  of   land  may   be   devoted  to  this 

purpose. 

The  stranger  first  arriving  amongst  us  m  the  month  ot 
November  and  December,  having  left  behind  him  regions 
already  enveloped  in  ice  and  snow,  finds  indeed  a  surprise 
in  store  for  him,  as,  brought  out  perchance  by  a  through 
carriage  from  Calais,  he  first  sees,  as  if  raised  by  Aladdin's 
lamp,  these  groves  of  golden  fruit. 

The  common  Orange-tree  will  bear  an  amount  of  cold 
equal  to  about  28^  to  29°  Fahr;  but  the  fruit  of  the 
mandarin  is  far  more  sensitive  of  frost,  though  even  they 
have  never  suffered  in  this  climate. 

The  Lemon-tree  is  not  only  more  delicate,  but  at  the 
same  time  gives  larger  profits  than  the  orange ;  it  is  this 
reason  which  causes  the  former  to  be  cultivated  more  gene- 
rally, and  also  with  much  greater  care,  than  the  latter ; 
it  is  also  without  doubt,  after  the  olive,  and  because  of  the 
importance  of  its  produce,  the  most  interesting  tree  under 
cultivation  in  this  part  of  the  Riviera  of  Genoa,  which 
extends  from  Monaco  to  Mentone,  from  Ventimiglia  to 
Bordighera,andasfaras  SanRemo  and  its  neighbourhood. 
There  are  also  some  other  parts  of  Liguria  where  this 
beautiful  plant  is  cultivated,  but  only  as  a  wall-fruit,  or  if 
in  other  ways,  it  is  in  certain  spots  especially  sheltered  by 
the  formation  of  the  coast  or  otherwise.    This  is  the  case 

both  at  Nice  and  Cannes. 

In  his  *  Voyage  aux  Alpes  Mariiimes;  Fodere  states  the 
fact,  and  adds  :^"  The  reason  of  this  is  that  the  winter  is 
milder  not  only  at  Mentone  and  San  Remo,  but  also  at 


FLORA. 


307 


the  other  places  where  the  lemon-tree  is  grown  in  the 

open  country." 

The  portion  of  the  coast  where  this  especially  mild 
climate  prevails  is  a  strip  of  about  twenty-five  miles,  ex- 
tending from  Monaco  to  San  Remo,  of  which  Bordighera 
is  the°centre,  and  it  might  fitly  be  called  the  "home  of 
the  lemon-tree."  It  is  there  only  that  it  is  cultivated  to 
any  great  extent,  and  completely  resists  even  the  most 

rigorous  w^inters. 

For,  of  all  the  varieties  of  this  noble  family  {Auran- 
tiacem),  the  lemon-tree  is  by  far  the  most  delicate  ;  it  is 
this  which  shudders  most  at  the  sudden  variations  of  tem- 
perature and  at  the  icy  winds  which  blow  down  from  the 
mountains  after  the  cold  rains  of  winter,  and  the  slightest 
frost,  in  certain  cases,  may  even  prove  fatal  to  it.    It  is 
necessary  then,  in  order  that  it  should  be  a  success,  to 
have  three  things :  (1)  a  warm  and  (2)  even  climate,  and  (3) 
a  sMtered  situation.     Where,  then,   are  such  conditions 
most  perfectly  to  be  found  ?     Surely  nowhere,  if  not  at 
Bordighera,  the  whole  neighbourhood  of  which  is  specially 
suited  for  such  a  purpose.     The  hills,  which  the  want  of 
water  has  hitherto  prevented  from  being  brought  into 
cultivation,  offer  the  most  favourable  sites,  and  the  experi- 
ments of  some  years  past  have  proved  conclusively  that 
the   fruit   there  grown  is  even  finer  than  usual.      Our 
mountain,  Montenero,  is  also  capable,  to  a  great  extent,  of 
being  covered  with  lemon-trees. 

On  the  western  side  of  this  noble  mountain,  on  a  hill 
adjoining,  one  of  our  ablest  agriculturists  lias  followed  the 
example  of  the  Spanish  Moors,  and  dammed  a  rushing 
torrent  with  a  solid  dyke  of  masonry,  which  not  only  pre- 

X  2 


308 


NATUBAL  HISTORY. 


serves  the  low4ying  lands  from  inundations,  but  also,  by 
retaining  a  portion  of  the  water,  has  enabled  him  to  turn 
bis  pine  woods  into  lemon-groves.  Already  the  acres  so 
planted  give  him  a  first-rate  profit,  and  each  year  he  in- 
creases the  area  under  cultivation. 

The  Lemon-tree,  originally  a  native  of  India,  was  intro- 
duced into  Europe  during  the  Crusades,  and  is  divided 
into  two  distinct  varieties,  the  SeriescJii  and  the  Bignete  ; 
the  fruit  of  the  latter  having  a  much  thinner  skin  and 
larger  amount  of  juice  than  the  former.    This  tree,  the 
most  remarkable  in  the  world,  has  this  striking  pecu- 
liarity, that  it  bears  fruit  continuously ;  and  this  is  the 
cause  of  its  extreme  sensitiveness  to  the  slightest  frost. 
It  is  possible  to  count  on  a  well-cultivated  tree  eight,  ten, 
or  even  twelve  successive  crops  of  fruit.    At  first  the  little 
buds  show  themselves  at  the  joints  of  the  leaves,  like  tlie 
tips  of  a  violet  rose ;  then  the  larger  buds  appear,  which 
only  require  a  few  of  those  warm  days,  so  numerous  with 
us  in  the  winter,  to  open  out  and  fill  the  air  with  a 
perfume,  which  is  tlie   more  acceptable   as  the  sweet- 
scented  flowers  are  rare  at  that  season. 

For,  apart  from  the  fact  that  the  lemon  is  one  of  the 
most  profitable  of  fruits,  and  returns  the  largest  crops  in  our 
district,  the  tree  itself  would  be  grown  because  of  its  ex- 
traordinary fecundity,  which  presents  to  us  the  appearance 
of  a  perpetual  spring ;  a  continual  succession  of  fruit  ap- 
pearing on  its  branches,  from  those  as  small  as  an  olive  to 
the  very  largest  kind,  whose  yellow  jackets  tell  us  they 
have  arrived  at  ripeness  and  maturity. 

The  lemons  are  classed  under  five  or  six  varieties  :— 
(1)  the  graniti  which  are  gathered  in  the  spring ;  (2)  the 
verdami  or  summer  lemons;    (3)   the  primijiori,  which 


FLORA. 


309 


are  plucked  in  the  autumn ;  (4)  the  auiunni,  with  their 
thick  peel,  which,  when  they  have  arrived  at  full  maturity, 
are  great  favourites,  being  eaten  with  a  knife  like  apples ; 
the  young  girls  of  the  district  having  an  especial  fondness 
for  them.    As  a  rule,  the  lemon-tree  has  even  a  fifth  quality 
of  fruit,  which  is  known  as  the  testasse,  but  this  is  gene- 
rally considered  a  bastard  fruit,  whilst  some  produce  yet 
a  sixth  variety,  which  goes  by  the  name  of  the  maraviglie, 
and  takes  the  most  peculiar  shapes ;  this  is  owing  to  the 
wounds  which  the  lemons  receive  from  insects  when  just 
emerging  from  the  flower. 

In  Corsica,  Naples,  and  above  all  in  Sicily,  the  lemon  is 
much  cultivated,  but  in  those  countries  the  trees  produce 
but  one  crop  during  the  season,  which,  commencing  in 
September,  ends  in  March.     For  the  remainder  of  the 
year,  that  is,  during  the  whole  of  the  spring  and  summer, 
there  is  no  sign  of  fruit  whatever.     It  is  only  in  Liguria, 
where  the  climate  is  more  equable,  the  winters  milder, 
the  summers  less  parching,  that  we  see  the  lemon-tree 
always  loaded  with  fruit.    Experience  also  has  shown  that 
lemons  from  this  district  are  better  suited  for  a  long 
voyage  than  any  others,  especially  for  exportation  to  the 
United  States,  where  our  fruit  is  always  considered  the 
finest  which  enters  their  markets.* 

OxALiDACEiE,  thc  Wood  Sorrcls. 

Oxalis  comicidata,  Yellow-wood  Sorrel. 
„      lyhica,  African  Sorrel. 

The  Yellow-wood  Sorrel  (0.  corniculata)  is  very  common 
on  every  side ;  the  other  species,  which  originally  came 

*  This  paper  is  a  reproduction  of  an  anonymous  article  which  appeared 
in  the  Voce  di  Bordvjhera  on  June  13th  and  July  1st,  1875. 


310 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


from  South  Africa,  has  a  much  larger  flower.  In  the 
present  clay  it  grows  spontaneously  over  the  whole  of 
Liguria. 

EHAMNACE.E,  the  Buckthorns, 

Bkamnus  alatei'ims. 

One  of  the  commonest  shrubs  in  these  parts ;  it  grows 
wild  in  the  sliacly  valleys  and  is  remarkable  for  its  bunches 
of  red  fruit,  which  turn  black  as  they  become  ripe. 


TEllEBINTHACEiE. 

Pi&tada  lentiscum,  the  Mastic  Tin'. 
terehiiithHS. 
vera,  the  Pistiicbio  Tree. 


The  Lentisk  covers  the  barren  hills  with  its  pretty 
bushes.  Owing  to  certain  strengtliening  properties  which 
the  wood  of  this  tree  was  supposed  to  possess,  it  was  used 
in  ancient  times  for  the  manufacture  of  tooth-picks.* 

*'  Lentiscum  melius, 
seti  si  tibi  frondea  cuspis  defuerit 
dentes  penna  levare  potest." 

The  Terebinth  is  one  of  the  finest  forest  trees  of  Asia 
Minor,  and  although  it  is  not  found  in  Europe  larger  than 
a  stunted  shrub,  we  may  naturally  expect  that  it  \vould 
be  mentioned  in  Scripture,  and  so  it  is,  although  only  in 
the  Old  Testament.  The  Hebrew  word  alah,  which  un- 
doubtedly designates  this  tree,  since  the  Scptuagint  uni- 
formly renders  it  by  repefiivOo^i,  appears  to  have  puzzled 
the  early  translators  of  the  Bible,  and  not  being  acquainted 
with  the  tree,  as  it  does  not  belong  to  the  flora  of  Northern 

•  The  celebrated  lentisk  tree  in  Signor  Adolfo  Garibaldi's  garden  is  well 
worth  a  visit. — A.  C.  D. 


FLORA. 


311 


Europe,  they  use,  apparently  at  random,  a  variety  of 
words.  Thus,  in  the  authorised  English  version,  it  is  ren- 
dered oah  in  Gen.  xxxv.  4  ;  teil  in  Isaiah  vi.  13  ;  elm  in 

Hosea  iv.  13. 

The  Pistachio  is  cultivated   as  a  fruit-tree  in  many 

gardens  at  Nice. 

Papilionace^  or  LEGUMiNACEiE,  the  Pea-flower 

Family. 

Ceratonia  siUqua,  the  Locust  Tree;  Fr.  Carouhier. 

The  Carouba  or  Locust  Bean  Tree  came  originally  from 
the  East,  but  it  has  been  acclimatized  throughout  the 
whole  of  the  Mediterranean  coast.     Its  long  beans,  which 
have  a  sweet  flavour,  form  an  admirable  food  for  horses. 
The  tree  is  only  cultivated  on  a  large  scale  in  the  Levant, 
on  the  African  coast,  and  in  the  island  of  Corsica,  whence 
the   locust  beans  are  exported  in  large  quantities.     On 
this  coast  it  has  sprung  up  spontaneously  at  Eza  and  on 
the  territory  of  Monaco,  but  Bordighera  possesses  only  a 
few  specimens  of  any  size.     According  to  a  tradition  pre- 
served  by  the  Eastern  Church,  the  locust  beans  were  the 
food  of  St.  John  the  Baptist  in  the  desert ;  from  which 
the  Germans  give  the  tree  the  name  of  Johanishrodhaum. 
If,  however,  this  was  the  fact,  it  would  be  necessary  to 
alter  the   word  locusts  into   locust  leans  in   the    English 
version  of  the  New  Testament,  and  to  change  sauterelles 
in  the  French  translations  into  carouhes.     However,  the 
word  uKpl^  which  is  used  by  the  Evangelists,  most  clearly 
means  locusts,  whilst  at  the  same  time  we  know  that  the 
true  name  of  the  Carouba  or  Locust-tree  Bean,  Keparia, 
(which  Linne  has  turned  into  Ceratonia),  was  familiar  to 
them,  as  we  find  it  used  in  Luke  xv.  13,  in  the  parable  of 


312 


"W  A  T'TTTJ  A  T       'OTO'TT^UV 

PlAiUxvAJL     JtllolUlti. 


the  Prodigal  Son :  "  the  shells  or  husks  which  the  swine 
did  eat."  However,  the  word  uKpk  which  is  derived  from 
dfcpo^,  sharpf  pointed,  may  have  been  applied  to  the  Locust 
on  account  of  its  angular  members,  and  it  is  not  impossible 
that  for  a  similar  reason,  and  in  a  country  where  Greek 
was  but  imperfectly  known,  the  same  word  was  employed 
to  designate  the  Locust  or  Carouha  Bean. 

Sjmrtlmn  junceum^  Spanish  Broom. 

This  beautiful  species,  with  rush-like  branches,  impro- 
perly called  "  Spanish  Broom,"  abounds  on  all  the  burnt- 
up  hills  in  the  spring. 

Genista  Bispanica,  Thorny  Broom. 

A  small  shrub,  very  thick  and  thorny,  w^hich  grows  in 
great  quantities  on  the  hills.    Yellow  flowers  in  the  spring. 

Cytisus  sessUifolius. 

„       laburnum f  the  Yellow  Laburnum. 

Several  Cytisi  are  found  in  the  shady  and  secluded 
valleys,  but  hardly  ever  near  the  shore. 


Ononis  nimosissmaj  the  Rest  Harrow. 
„      spinosa. 

Seven  species  of  Ononis  belong  to  the  flora  of  this  coast, 
but  the  two  mentioned  above  are  the  only  ones  which 
exist  in  any  numbers  on  the  beach  in  this  neighbourhood. 

Psoralia  hituminom. 

This  handsome  plant  is  very  easily  distinguished  by  its 
strong  odour  of  bitumen ;  it  is  common  under  the  olives 
and  on  the  slopes  of  the  railway  embankments ;  flower  in 
May, 


FLORA. 


313 


Coronilla  scorpioides. 

A  remarkable  herbaceous  species,  but  rare  ;  May. 

C.  emerus. 

Several  sub-ligneous  kinds  are  met  along  with  Cytisi  in 
the  shady  valleys  in  May. 

Lathy rus  latifoUtis,  Everlasting  Pea. 
„        setifoUus. 

Two  beautiful  kinds,  the  former  especially,  with  large 
flowers  in  terminal  bunches,  found  amongst  the  olives  in 
May. 

EosACE^,  the  Rose  Family. 

Agrimonia  eupataria.  Agrimony. 

Yellow  flowers  in  one  long  vertical  spike,  found  under 
the  olives. 

PuNiOACE^,  the  Pomegranate  Family. 

Punka  granatunif  Pomegranate  Tree ;  Fr.  Orenadier. 

It  is  generally  believed  that  this  tree,  the  modern  French 
name  of  which  so  well  describes  the  form  of  the  fruit,  was 
introduced  into  Italy  from  Africa  by  the  Komans  during 
the  Punic  wars,  from  whence  may  have  arisen  its  Latin 
name.  The  Pomegranate  is  sufficiently  hardy  to  with- 
stand cold  northern  climates,  but  the  fruit  does  but  imper- 
fectly ripen  even  on  this  coast. 

MYRTACE.E,  the  Myrtle  Family. 

Myrtus  communis^  Common  Myrtle. 
The  myrtle  is  found  along  the  whole  of  the  Riviera  and 
in  all  our  valleys.     It  is  in  full  bloom  in  May. 


314 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


FLORA. 


315 


Eumlyptus  globulus,  the  Blue  Gum  Tree. 

The  Blue  Gum  Tree  of  Australia,  introduced  into  Europe 
about  twenty  years  ago,  is  at  the  present  day,  of  all  purely 
ornamental  trees,  the  one  which  is  most  generally  found 
in  these  parts.  Its  graceful  shape,  its  peculiar  leaf  and 
strong  scent,  and  the  extraordinary  rapidity  of  its  growth, 
have  made  its  adoption  universal  by  those  who  are  anxious, 
in  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  to  obtain  plantations  of  full- 
grown  trees.  But  in  taking  a  just  account  of  this  inter- 
esting tree,  we  must  not  fail  to  recognise  its  faults.  The 
Blue  Gum  is  singularly  greedy,  particularly  of  water, 
which  its  wide-spreading  roots  absorb  in  enormous  quan- 
tities, exhausting  the  soil  and  rendering  difficult  the 
cultivation  of  anything  around  it,  and  its  presence  in  our 
gardens  causes  all  sorts  of  inconveniences,  but  the  very 
strong  camphor  perfume  thrown  out  by  its  leaves,  and  the 
extraordinary  property  of  absorption  its  roots  possess,  make 
it  nevertheless  a  valuable  instrument  in  draining  marsh 
kinds,*  whilst  a  preparation  from  its  leaves  has  been  used 

*  Those  who  take  an  interest  in  the  reclamation  of  ua^tc  lands,  and  better 
still,  in  seeing  a  whole  district,  for  centuries  dcsei-ted  l»y  iiKin,  once  more 
rendered  healthy  and  habitable,  mi«;ht  do  worse  than  vi.sit  the  monastery, 
farms  and  gardens  of  the  Trappists,  at  the  Tre  Fontaiia,  about  four  miles 
from  Rome.  Here  they  will  see  what  hkuvcIs  this  tree,  wisely  and  ex- 
tensively cultivated,  is  capable  of  performing.  The  convent,  long  deserted, 
was  given  by  the  Pope  Pius  IX.  to  some  French  Trappists  in  ISOS,  who  began 
by  spending  the  winter  in  their  new  home,  brin-ing  it  into  repair,  and  planting 
hundreds,  nay  thousamls,  of  the  E.  ,jMm!us,  but  returning  to  Rome  when  the 
summer  heats  began.  This  went  on  for  three  or  four  years,  until  the  trees 
were  sufHciently  grown  to  enable  the  monks  to  venture  on  remaining  the 
summer;  fortifying  themselves  for  this  ordeal  by  taking  daily  a  certain  (juan- 
tity  of  the  preiKiration  referred  to.  When  visited  by  the  present  writer  in 
1876,  the  monks  had  been  settled  there  for  some  years,  cases  of  fever  were 
rare,  and  never  fatal,  a  large  number  of  acres  had  been  reclaimed  and  were 
under  cultivation,  the  farm  labourers   were  returning,  and  livin--,  like  the 


with  considerable  effect  in  cases  of  malaria  fever.  The 
wood,  which  is  greatly  valued  in  Australia  for  its  toughness 
and  durability,  has  not,  however,  up  to  the  present  time, 
been  found  to  possess  the  same  characteristics  in  Europe ; 
neither  will  it  serve  for  fuel,  as  it  is  nearly  incombus- 
tible. The  want  of  appreciation  which  it  has  so  far  expe- 
rienced in  this  continent  may  perhaps  be  explained  by 
the  fact,  that  the  E.  globulus  is  not  the  species  which  is 
most  thought  of  in  its  native  country:  in  addition  to 
which,  to  obtain  wood  really  tough  and  hard,  even  in 
Australia,  it  is  necessary  for  the  trees  to  be  of  great  age. 

The  genus  Eucalyptus  contains  a  large  number  of 
species.  Thirty  at  least  have  been  tried  during  the  last 
few  years  on  the  Eiviera,  but  the  only  one  which  appears 
to  merit  serious  attention  from  amateur  gardeners  is  the 
Eucalyptus  tremula,  the  foliage  and  beautiful  shape  of  which, 
somewhat  resembling  the  birch-tree  of  the  North  of  Europe, 
have  given  it  a  prominent  place  among  the  ornamental 
trees  suitable  to  our  coast. 

CucuRBiTACE^,  the  Cucumbsr  Family. 

Ecabalium  elaterium,  Squirting  Cucumber ;  Fr.  Momordique. 

The  Squirting  Cucumber  affects  chiefly  the  cultivated 
land,  not  very  far  from  the  shore.  The  fruit  from  two  to 
three  inches  long  falls  when  perfectly  ripe,  throwing  its 
seed  with  great  force  to  a  considerable  distance  on  every 
side. 

Trappists,  on  the  spot,  who  were  still  hard  at  work  rearing  and  planting  the 
eucalyptus.  There  was  this  beneficent  shrub  in  the  large  convent  garden, 
in  rows  and  rows,  in  thousands  of  every  size,  from  those  a  few^  inches  high  in 
pots,  just  springing  up  from  seed,  to  those  5  or  6  feet  high,  ready  for  planting 
in  those  fields  even  yet  a  prey  to  the  once  all-powerful  malaria. — A.  C.  D. 


316 


NATtlRAL  HISTORY. 


Tamaricace^,  the  Tamarisk  Family. 

Tamarix  Africana,  Tamarisk . 

The  African  Tamarisk  abounds  on  the  sand-hills  of  the 
sea-shore ;  its  shape  is  that  of  a  straggling  bush. 

CRAssuLACEiE,  the  Stone-Crop  Family. 

Sedum  reflexum. 

The  most  remarkable  of  twenty  species  of  the  genus 
and  one  of  the  most  beautiful  flowers  of  midsummer. 

Umbellifer^,  the  UmbeUiferous  Family. 

Crithmum  maritimum,  St.  Peter's  Herb,  or  Samphire. 

A  thick  juicy  plant  which  grows  on  the  rocks  of  the 
sea-shore  ;  the  leaves  are  edible  and  resemble  in  taste 
the  Angelica  {Angeliea  sylvestris). 

Eryngium  maritimum,  Sea  Holly. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  of  the  plants  growing  on 
the  sea-shore ;  leaves  outspread  and  thorny ;  flowers  prickly 
and  of  a  pinkish  white  colour.     Blossoms  in  June. 


CAPRiFOLiACEiE,  the  Woodbine  or  Honeysuckle 

Family. 

Lonicera  implexa. 

This  beautiful  species,  which  is  in  every  respect  a  much 
handsomer  and  larger  plant  than  tlie  ordinary  honey- 
suckle (Lmiicera  perieli/menum)  of  North  Europe,  abounds 
on  the  uncultivated  land  in  May. 


FLORA. 


317 


KuBiACEiE,  the  Madder  Family. 

Oalium  Utigiosum. 

Many  varieties  of  bedstraw  overrun  the  cultivated  land 
on  all  sides ;  the  G.  Utigiosum  is  peculiar  to  the  south. 

VALERIANACE.E,  the  Valerian  Family. 

Ccntranthus  rubra j  Red  Valerian. 

Abounds  on  old  walls,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  beautiful 
red  flowers  in  a  terminal  corymb ;  found  nearly  all  the 
year  round. 


CoMPOSiTiE,  the  Composite  Family. 

Tyrimn us  leucographus. 

The  most  remarkable  of  the  southern  thistles.  This 
gigantic  weed  is  common  on  all  wild  or  waste  lands  in 
June. 

Calendula  arvensisj  Wild  Marigold. 

The  Wild  Marigold  is  found  in  great  numbers  in  May 
on  the  ploughed  fields. 

Inula  viscosa. 

A  sticky  plant  with  strong  aromatic  perfume,  found  on 
the  bare  hills  in  June;  mentioned  by  Dr.  Antonio  as 
a  defence  against  mosquitoes  and  flies, 

Eelichrysum  Stoeclias,  Wild  Immortelle. 

The  Wild  Immortelle  covers  all  our  hills  in  May  with 
its  sweet  yellow  flowers  ;  its  leaves  of  a  whitish  tone  have 
a  strong  perfume. 


318 


NATUKAL   HISTORY. 


FLORA. 


319 


Diotis  candidi'ssima, 

A  pretty  little  white  flower  found  on  the  sea-shore  in 
July,  but  rare. 

Chrysanthemum  segetum,  the  Corn  Marigold. 
This  beautiful  species  does  not  appear  originally  to 
have  belonged  to  our  flora ;  but  is  found  at  the  present 
time  in  great  quantities  on  the  railway  embankments 
between  Bordighera  and  Ventimiglia,  its  seeds  having 
probably  been  brought  in  the  ballast  used  for  making 
them. 

Cineraria  7naritima,  Wild  Cineraria. 

The  Wild  Cineraria  is  not  found  in  our  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood, but  it  covers  the  rocks  on  the  sea-coast  east  of 
San  Kemo  with  its  great  tufts  in  the  month  of  July. 

Uellis  sylvestris,  the  Wood  Daisy. 
This  variety  has  large  flowers,  reddish  on  the  outside, 
and  must  not  be  confused   with  the  common  daisy   (B, 
permnis).     It  is  only  met  with  under  the  olive  woods  on 
the  plain  and  in  the  valleys  ;  autumn. 

Scolymus  macuiatus. 

One  of  the  finest  flowers  of  the  beach,  resembling  a 
yellow  thistle. 

Urospermum  Dalcchampii, 

A  large  yellow  flower,  having  its  ligulate  flowerets  tipped 
with  brown  ;  found  in  the  fields  and  meadows  in  June. 

Arnica  montana. 

The  Mountain  or  Common  Arnica.  This  is  common  on 
the  mountains,  close  to  the  line  of  perpetual  snow ;  found 
in  the  summer. 


Tussilago farfara,  Yellow  Coltsfoot;  Fr.  Pas  d'dne. 
The  Coltsfoot,  one  may  say,  is  the  first  flower  of  spring ; 
it  appears  in  the  torrent  beds  in  January. 

Leontopodiiim  alpinum,  Edehveiss;  Fr.  Pied  de  Lion. 
The  Edelweiss,  the  discovery  of  which  gives  such  delight 
to  Alpine  travellers,  is  very  rare  in  our  mountains.    It 
has,  however,  been  found  on  the  Col  di  Tenda  and  on  some 
of  the  heights  of  the  valley  of  the  Vesubie. 

Ericaceae,  the  Heath  Family. 

Erica  arhm^ea,  Large  Heath,  or  Mediterranean  Heath. 
Gro\NS  abundantly  on  Monte  Nero  in  !March. 

Arbutus  unedo,  Strawberry  Tree,  or  Red  Arbutus. 
Found  also  on  Monte  Nero ;  two  other  species,  the  A. 
alfiiia  or  Alpine  Bear-berry  and  the  Uva-ursi  or  Common 
Bear-berry,  exist  amongst  the  mountains. 

Kliododendronferrugineum. 

This  is  often,  but  wrongly,  called  the  Alpine  Kose. 
Found  on  the  north  slope  of  the  Alps  in  June. 

Apocynace^,  the  Periwinkle  Family. 

Nerium  oleander^  Oleander ;  Fr.  Laurier  rose. 

Abounds  in  the  beds  of  the  torrents,  in  that  of  the  Nervia 
especially.  The  variety  with  white  blossoms  is  found  upon 
the  hill  of  the  Madonna  delta  Guardia,  to  the  east  of  San 
Kemo. 

Vinca  acutiflora^  Periwinkle ;  Fr.  Pervenche. 

This  is  the  only  one  of  the  three  species  of  the  genus 
which  grows  at  Bordighera,  and  it  is  only  found  in  any 


320 


FLORA. 


321 


quantity  on  one  spot :  the  valley  of  the  Fontana  Vecchia 
and  its  immediate  neighbourhood. 

Jasminace^,  the  Jasmine  Family. 

Olea  Eiirop(ea,  the  Olive-tree. 

The  Olive-tree  has  been  known  from  the  most  remote 
times.  We  read  in  the  Old  Testament,  how  the  dove, 
after  it  had  been  set  at  liberty  by  Noah  during  the 
deluge,  returned  to  the  ark,  bearing  a  branch  of  the  olive- 
tree  in  its  beak,  and  many  have  attributed  to  this  cliarming 
incident  the  adoption  of  tliis  tree  as  the  symbol  of  peace 
by  all  the  peoples  of  antiquity  : 

"  Pacifercxque  manii  ramiira  protendit  olivas." 

According  to  some  authorities,  Cecrops  brought  the 
olive  from  Egypt  to  Greece  about  the  year  1580  B.C.; 
according  to  others,  Hercules,  on  his  return  from  one  of 
his  expeditions,  planted  it  upon  Mount  Olympus.  What 
is  most  probable,  however,  is  that  it  was  introduced  by 
the  Phocaeans  to  these  parts  about  the  year  600  B.C. 
Pliny  states  that  at  the  time  of  Tarquin  the  Elder,  there 
were  none  to  be  found  either  on  the  African  coast  or  in 
Europe. 

The  Olive  blossoms  in  the  spring,  and  its  fruits  ripen 
during  the  winter ;  the  olives  are  sharp  and  bitter  to  the 
taste ;  the  oil  from  them,  which  is  known  all  over  the 
world,  is  obtained  by  crushing  them  in  powerful  presses. 

The  traveller  journeying  towards  the  soutli  of  Europe 
first  meets  them  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Marseilles, 
but  they  are  few  and  far  between  and  of  small  size. 
The  real  olive  woods,  containing  trees  which  have  stood 


for  centuries,  are  to  be  found  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Cannes,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Esterel  Mountains,  and 
they  stretch  away  to  the  cold  plains  of  the  Serchio  and  the 
Arno  in  Tuscany.  There  is  no  district  along  the 
Riviera  where  this  tree  is  more  extensively  cultivated, 
than  in  the  neiglibourhood  of  Bordighera  ;  but  the  visitor 
must  not  conclude  from  the  immense  number  of  trees 
which  he  sees  on  every  side,  that  its  culture  is  a  source  of 
wealth  to  those  countries  which  possess  it. 

On  the  slopes  of  the  hills,  where  the  lemon,  orange,  and 
other  valuable  plants  will  not  grow,  owing  to  the  difficulty 
or  impossibility  of  obtaining  a  sufficient  supply  of  water, 
the  cultivation  of  the  olive  may  still  be  a  profitable  in- 
vestment; but  in  the  flat  parts,  especially  over  the  whole 
area  of  the  extensive  plain  which  stretches  from  Bordi- 
ghera up  to  the  Nervia,  anything  else,  whether  it  be 
wheat,  or  Italian  rye-grass,  or  vegetables,  would  give 
infinitely  more  remunerative  results. 

During  the  long  wars  of  the  first  Empire,  a  strict 
blockade  prevented  the  oils  of  the  Levant  from  entering 
the  French  markets;  consequently,  olive  oil  rose  to  an 
exorbitant  price,  and  the  inhabitants  of  Liguria  (that 
province  having  been  annexed  to  France)  were  led  to 
plant  these  trees  in  great  quantities. 

But  the  exaggerated  rates  of  bygone  days  are  no 
longer  maintained ;  *  whilst  at  the  same  time,  the  increased 

*  There  is  another  reason  also,  I  think,  for  the  decreased  demand  for  these 
oils  and  the  consequent  fall  in  price,  viz.  the  discovery  and  extraordinary 
popularity  of  the  mineral  oils  of  America,  which,  for  the  purposes  of  illumina- 
tion and  owing  to  their  wonderful  cheapness,  have  practically  driven  the  olive 
oil  from  the  market.  There  is  hardly  a  cottage  in  England,  not  to  mention 
great  part  of  Europe,  in  which  the  lamp  is  not  now  fed  by  petroleum,  or  one 
of  its  sister  oils. — A.  C.  D. 


t 

III 


oJLA 


NATUEAL   HISTORY. 


dryness  which  has  characterised  the  past  decades  (pro- 
duced, no  doubt,  by  the  reckless  way  the  woods  and 
mountain  forests  have  been  cut  down),  has  caused  a 
partial  failure  of  the  crops;  for  the  olive  needs  great 
quantities  of  water,  and  since  it  has  failed  to  obtain  it,  its 
crops  have  become  smaller  and  smaller. 

The  produce  of  an  olive-tree  varies  enormously,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  tree,  the  manner  of  its  cultivation, 
and  its  position. 

Left  to  itself,  unpruned  and  unmanured,  its  produce 
gradually  dwindles  until  it  reaches  zero.  On  the  other 
hand,  when  it  is  carefully  pruned  from  infancy,  watered 
abundantly,  and  well  manured  with  substances  strongly 
impregnate  with  azote  and  especially  horny  matter,  such 
as  woollen  rags,  a  fine  tree  ought  to  give  about  44  lbs.  of 
oil,  or  in  other  words,  a  net  profit  of  about  30  francs. 

During  the  whole  of  the  winter  the  peasants  employ 
themselves  in  picking  up  the  ripe  olives  which  fall  beneath 
the  trees,  and  as  spring  draws  to  an  end  they  beat  the 
branches  with  long  canes,  to  bring  down  all  those  which 
have  not  already  fallen. 

The  operation  of  extracting  the  oil  is  effected  by  two 
distinct  processes ;  first  of  all,  the  olives  are  crushed  in  a 
frantoio^  that  is,  a  mill-stone  revolving  on  its  edge  round 
a  vertical  axis.  From  thence  the  olives  are  carried  to  a 
powerful  press,  tlie  flow  of  oil  from  which  is  often  hastened 
by  the  help  of  warm  water ;  this,  however,  does  not  im- 
prove the  quality  of  the  oil.  The  dregs  which  are  left 
behind  then  undergo  a  further  process ;  the  oil  resulting 
from  which  goes  by  the  name  of  ressanse. 


FLORA. 


323 


GENTIANACE.E,  the  Gentian  Family. 

Chlora  acuminata.  Yellow  Wort ;  Fr.  Chlorette. 

Erythrcea  centaurium,  Common  Centaury. 
The  species  mentioned  above  are  the  only  two  members 
of  the  Gentian  family   which  are  found  in  our  valleys ; 
the  true  gentians  are  only  to  be  met  on  mountains  of  a 
considerable  height. 

PoLYGALACE^,  the  Milkwort  Family. 

Polygala  comosa. 
„       nicceensis. 

Seven  species  of  the  pretty  Milkwort  family  are  found 
amongst  our  flora;  but  the  P.  comosa  with  its  pink 
flowers,  and  the  nicmensis  with  its  blue,  are  the  only  ones 
which  exist  in  any  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood. 

CoNVOLVULACE^,  the  Bindweed  Family. 

Convolvulus  sepium,  Large  Bindweed. 
„  cantahrica. 

The  Large  Bindweed,  white  with  flowers,  abounds  in 
our  valleys;  the  Biscayan  Bindweed  (cantahrica),  with 
pink  flowers  and  prostrate  stem,  affects  the  dried-up  hills : 
it  is  found  in  May. 

BoRAGiNACE^,  the  Borage  Family. 

Cerinthe  aspera,  Fr.  Melinet. 

This  is  somewhat  rare,  but  is  found  in  the  valley  of 
Borghetto,  also  at  Ospedaletti  in  the  month  of  April. 

Anchusa  italica,  Bugloss,  or  Ycnus'  Looking-glass. 

It  abounds  near  the  sea  in  April. 

Y  2 


324 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


Lithospermiim  purpureo-coeruleumf  The  Millet. 

This  flower,  called  by  the  French  Gremil  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  of  flowers  of  the  south  ;  it  is  found  in  March, 
and  especially  under  the  olives. 


OROBANCHACEiE,  the  Broom-rape  Family. 

FMipoea  lavandulacea, 

„        mufsli. 
Orobanche  epithymum. 

„         concolor, 

„         speciosa. 

No  less  than  twenty  species  of  this  singular  family  are 
found  in  this  neighbourhood,  mainly  in  April. 


LABiATEiE,  the  Labiate  Family. 

Lavandula  officinalis^  Common  Lavender. 
„         stcechas. 

The  latter  a  fine  variety,  but  almost  without  perfume  ; 
found  on  Monte  Nero  in  March. 


VERBENACEiE,  the  Verbena  Family. 

Vitex  agmis-castuB,  Fr.  Gattilicr. 

One  of  the  prettiest  shrubs  in  the  country,  especially 
in  the  height  of  the  summer,  when  it  is  covered  with 
beautiful  blue  flowers,  in  terminal  spikes ;  flowers  in  the 
valleys  in  July. 

GLOBULARiACEiE,  the  Globulary  Family. 

Olobularia  vidgaris. 

The  Globularias  are  found  upon  the  sunburnt  hills, 


FLORA. 


325 


which  they  brighten  up  the  whole  of  winter  with  their 
pretty  blue  flowers. 

Phytolacce-e. 

Phytolacca  decandra. 
Ori-inallv  from  America,  but  at  the  present  day  natu- 
ralised over'  the  whole  of  the  south  of  Europe  ;  remark- 
able for  its  bunches  of  black  fruit ;  rather  rare. 

EuPHOEBiACE^,  the  Spruce  Pam  ily- 

Euphorbia  dendroides. 

No  less  than  twenty-nine  species  of  this  family  belong 
to  the  flora  of  the  coast.  The  E.  dendroides,  the  only 
ligneous  one,  is  very  common,  but  only  eastward  of  the 
French  frontier. 

Conifers,  the  Coniferous  Family. 

Larix  curopoa,  Common  Larch. 
Finns  Cemhro. 

„  stjluvdris,  Sylvester  Pine. 
Ahies  fectinata,  Scotch  Fir. 

„    cxcelsa.  Spruce  Fir. 

These  five  species  form  the  forests  of  the  Alps  ;  they  arc 
met  with  in  the  following  order :  above  4000  feet  the 
larch  {Europm)  and  the  P.  Ge^nhro ;  below  these,  the 
Spruce  Fir  (P.  exceha)  and  the  Scotch  Fir,  and  finally, 
near  the  coast,  the  Sylvester  Pine  (P.  sylvestris). 

Finns  maritima,  Chister  Piue. 
„     Jialepensis,  Aleppo  Piue. 
pinea,  Umbrella  Piue. 

The  Cluster  Piue  and  the  Aleppo  Pine  compose  the 
>voods  on  the  lower  or  secondary  range  of  mountains,  but 


326 


NATUEAL   HISTORY. 


tlie  P.  Finea  is  found  in  any  considerable  numbers  only 


in  the  neighbourhood  of  Cannes. 


LiLTACEJE,  the  Lily  Family. 

„       clusinna. 

The  large  Early  Tulip  {Fr.  TtiUpe  jprecoce)  has  red 
flowers  spotted  with  black  and  yellow  on  the  unguis,  and 
is  common  in  certain  parts  in  the  cultivated  lands  ;  flowers 
in  April.  The  tiny  but  most  charming  Tulipe  cle  Tecluse 
with  its  \\hite  and  pink  flowers  is  very  rare;  flowers  in 
April. 

Allium  iieajfolitanumj  Garlic. 

rosnim. 


FLORA. 


327 


)» 


)> 


»i 


suhliirsutu/n. 


trlijHtfrmii, 

These  four  beautiful  species  are  met  with  in  the  fields 
under  cultivation  ;  the  two  last  are  somewhat  rare ;  March 
to  May. 

OrnUhogalum  narhotienae,  Narbonne  Star  of  Bethlehem. 
Grows  in  shady  valleys  in  March ;  rather  rare. 

Erythroiiium  dens-can is^  DogVtooth  Violet. 
Found  high  up  in  the  mountains  in  April. 

Aluscari  cmnostiiH,  common  Grape  II}acinth. 
„       botryoides. 

Very  plentiful  in  the  gardens  and  cultivated  terraces. 

A n iher icum  Uliago, 

Shady  valleys,  not  rare. 

Frirdlariii  pyrmiaica^  Fritillary. 
Ill  the  high  mountains  in  April ;  rare. 


AsPARAGiNACEiE,  the  Asparagus  Family. 

Asparagus  acutifoUus,  Asparagus. 
The  pointed-leaved  asparagus  (Fr.  Asperge  a  feuilles 
aigues)  grows  wild   on  the  hills ;   its   young  shoots  are 

eatable.  _  .,, 

Smilax  aspera,  Sarsapanlla. 

The  SarsapariUa,  with  its  lovely  bunches  of  red  berries, 
is  in  spite  of  its  thorns,  one  of  the  most  pleasing  climbing 
plants  of  our  flora  ;  sheltered  valleys  ;  fruit  in  winter. 

Iridace^,  the  Iris  Family. 

Gladiolus  segetum,  Pink  Gladiolus. 
The  pink  gladiolus  plays  the  same  part  in  the  south  as 
the  corn-flower  does  in  the  north  of  Europe  ;  it  overruns 
the  arable  land  in  all  directions ;  May. 

Ilermodadylas  tuherosus,  the  Black  Iris. 

A  very  rare  plant ;  flowers  in  March. 

AMARYLLiDACEiE,  the  Daffodil  and  Snow-drop 

Family. 

Leucoiiwi  autumnale,  the  Snowflake. 

The  little  Snoivflahe  of  the  south  is  rare  everywhere,  and 
the  few  specimens  which  are  met  with  along  the  coast  are 
in  the  cracks  and  crevices  of  the  rocks  between  Monaco 
and  the  frontier ;  March. 

Narcissus  poeticus.  Narcissus. 

tazzetta. 

pat  id  us. 

italicus. 

incomparahiUs,  Garden  Daffodil. 

The  first-named  {Narcissus  podiciis)  is  as  rare  as  the 


jr 


f» 


J> 


» 


328 


NATURAL   HISTORY. 


N.  patulus  and   ifalicus,  wliicli  are,  it  id   probable,  but 
varieties  of  the  Tazzetia;  this  latter  abounds  everywhere. 

Fancratiurii  inuritimum. 

One  of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  flowers  of  the 
Eiviera,  but  rare  in  the  present  day  ;  flowers  in  July. 

ORCHiDACEiE,  the  Orchid  Family. 

Eplpuctis  anslfolhi. 

The  most  graceful  of  our  orchids  ;  white  flowers ;  shady 
valleys;  May. 

Liinudorum  ahoitivum. 

Valleys  and  rocks  in  May,  but  somewhat  rare. 

Ojthrys  arm,  if  em.  Spider  Orchis. 
scolopax. 

up  if  era,  Bee  Orclnn. 
I 

(ui(hroj>o2>hon(.  Green  Man  Orchis. 
„     fmca,  Lady  Orchis. 

Numerous  during  the  month  of  February  in  most  places, 
but  each  has  its  special  quarter,  the  different  species 
hardly  even  mingling.  The  0.  aranifera  and  authro- 
pophora  are  the  i*arest. 


w 
1) 
») 

•f 


Oiflti,- 


-I 


itCiuliS. 


This  is  the  only  species  with  yellow  flowers ;  it  is  found 
on  Mmite  Nero  in  March. 

Orchis  hifvU't. 

Found  in  the  high  lands  in  April,  but  rare. 

Orchis  laxiflora. 
„  variegata. 
„    gakata, 

„    pyrumidalis,  Pyramidical  Orchih. 
.,     tokojmuj  Fragrant  Orchi-s. 


FLORA. 


329 


Orchis  coriox»1iora,  Bug  Orchis. 
„      simiiij  Monkey  Orchis. 

All  tliese  are  very  numerous  in  the  valleys  and  meadows 
in  April  and  May.  _    ,     ., 

^  ''  0.  densifiora. 

The  only  orchis  which  flowers  in  the  autumn:  it  has 
white  flowers  ;  on  the  hills. 

Serapias  limjua. 
„        longipetala. 

Tliese  two  remarkable  species  are  common  near  springs 

in  the  valleys ;  April. 


Aroidace^e,  the  Arum  Family. 

Arum  italicum,  the  Capuchin. 


i» 


arimrum. 


These  two  species,  known  in  France  as  the  Gouet  d'ltalie 
and  the  Gouet  ca^puchoUy  are,  out  of  the  whole  number  of 
the  noxious  and  troublesome  herbs,  those  most  difficult  to 
destroy  and  exterminate.  The  larger  species  is  remark- 
able for  the  heat  which  is  radiated  by  its  pistil. 

Cyperace^,  the  Sedge  Family. 

Cyperus  schoenoides. 
A  beautiful  species  having  globular  heads,  growing  on 
the  sands  by  the  sea  ;  blooms  in  the  summer. 

Cyperus  rotundus. 
A  small  species,  having  a  triangular  stem;   it  grows 
everywhere  in  cultivated  land;  and  flowers  throughout 

the  year. 

The  Palm  Family. 

Charnarops  humilis^  the  Dwarf  Pahii. 

The  Dwarf  Palm  is  the  onlv  member  of  the  family 


330 


NATURAL   HISTOBY. 


whieli  belongs  to  the  European  flora,  but  in  the  present 
day  it  is  only  found  in  a  few  parts  of  Europe ;  those  in  fact 
which  are  not  overrun  as  completely  as  the  rest,  by  the 
amateur  botanist  and  specimen  collector;  such  as  the 
islands  of  Corsica  and  Sardinia.  It  formerly  grew  in  large 
numbers  on  the  Kiviera,  and  was  to  be  found  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  all  the  wintering  resorts,  and  especially 
at  the  bottom  of  the  Gulf  of  Villa  Franca,  where  it 
probably  marked  the  northern  limit  of  the  Palm  Family. 

Phoenix  dactylifera,  the  Date  Palm. 

The  Date  Palm  belongs  to  Northern  Africa  and  Asia 
Minor,  but  it  has  been  introduced  within  comparatively 
recent  days,  as  an  ornamental  tree,  in  all  those  parts  of 
Southern  Europe  where  the  climate  is  sufficiently  warm 
to  permit  its  cultivation.  But  in  our  relatively  cold  cli- 
mate, this  beautiful  tree  does  not  show  itself  to  the  same 
advantage  as  under  the  burning  suns  of  the  Sahara. 
Tliere,  it  is  multiplied  not  only  by  seed  but  also  by 
separating  the  young  suckers  from  the  roots  and  the  axils 
of  the  leaves.  This  last  mode  of  propagation  is  the  most 
advantageous,  the  plants  thus  obtained  being  all  females, 
that  is  to  say  fruit  bearers,  and  tliey  will  bear  fruit  at  an 
age  of  only  five  or  six  years,  wliilst  those  obtained  from 
seed  bear  no  dates  until  they  have  reached  an  age  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  years. 

In  the  oases  of  Southern  Algeria,  the  inhabitants  plant 
the  Date  Palm  in  the  proportion  of  100  trees  to 
the  hectare,  and  the  average  of  each  hectare  is  72 
quintals,  about  72  kilos,  or  1  cwt.  and  1  quarter,  re- 
presenting from  8  to  10  clusters  of  fruit,  each  weighing 
from  7  to  8  kilos,  or  15  Us.  to  16  lbs.  English  measure- 


FLOKA. 


331 


ment;  the  net  return  being  about  at  least  MOO  francs 
the  hectare.  No  cultivation  of  cereals,  however  success- 
fully carried  out,  could  produce  such  results. 

France  possesses  about  400  oases  in  Algeria  planted 
with  the  Palm  Tree ;  that  of  Biskra,  which  is  the  most  im- 
portant, containing  40,000  at  the  very  least ;  some  others 
but  a  few  hundreds;  the  average  probably  running  as 
high  as  10,000,  which  will  give  a  total  for  the  French 
oases  of  4,000,000  of  trees  and  a  revenue  of  60,000,000 

of  francs. 

With  us  at  Bordighera,  the  date  rarely  ripens,  for 
winter  coming  on  before  it  has  arrived  at  maturity,  the  fruit 
fails  to  acquire  the  flavour  and  sweetness  which  it  attains 
in  its  native  land.  Again,  at  Bordighera,  the  tree  is  not 
cultivated  for  its  fruit,  as  strangers  might  naturally 
imagine.  The  object  is  solely  to  obtain  the  white 
branches,  and  for  some  years  past  to  multiply,  by  means 
of  seeds,  the  plants  for  exportation,  as  an  ornament  for 
gardens  along  the  coast. 

Two  Date  palms  are  especially  cultivated  for  their 
leaves ;  the  first,  called  the  Palma  alia  romana,  having 
very  long  leaves,  their  leaflets  terminating  in  a  very 
solid  point;  the  other  known  as  the  Palma  aW  ehrea, 
whose    leaves    are    much    shorter    and    their    leaflets 

blunter. 

The  bleaching,  or  turning  the  Palm  leaves  into  a 
yellowish  white  colour,  is  produced  by  a  process  exactly 
similar  to  that  employed  by  the  market  gardeners  in  ob- 
taining the  white  centres  of  the  lettuces.  They  strongly 
tie  up  the  whole  of  the  branches  so  as  to  form  a  vertical 
roll,  in  the  centre  of  which  are  the  young  leaves,  which 
have  to  grow  as  best  they  may,  shut  off  from  both  light 


332 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


and  air.    This  operation  takes  places,  so  far  as  tlie  Palma 
alia  romana  is  concerned,  in  the  summer,  in  order  that 
the  white  leaves  may  be  ready  for  the  Palm  Sunday  ot 
the  following  year ;  and  for  the  alF  ehrea,  in  tlie  spring,  m 
view  of  the  Feast  of  Tabernacles  of  the  German  Jews. 
The  Talm  plantations  at  Bordighera  are  nearly  all  grouped 
around  the  old  village  ;  in  the  level  ground  of  the  Borgo 
Marina,  we  come  across  none,  except  the  magniticent  one 
of  M   Adolphe  Garibiddi,  which  stands  quite  alone.     The 
most  beautiful  specimens  of  the  Date  Palm  in  Bordighera 
however,  are  found  in  the  ganlen  of  the  Villa  Moreno ; 
some  of  these  indeed  cannot  be  less  than  from  six  to  eight 

hundred  years  old. 

But  it  is  to  the  east  of  the  old  town,  and  especially  on 
the  steep  slopes  which  form  the  entrance  to  the  valley, 
that  the  largest  palm  plantations  are  to  be  found,  which 
supply  the  enormous  quantities  of  leaves  despatched  from 
these  shores.  The  *'  eampanile  "  of  M.  Charles  Garuier's 
pretty  villa  gives  a  lovely  view  of  these  oriental  gardens, 
which  are  on  every  side  of  it. 

It  was  probably  the  Crusaders  who  introduced  the  date 
palm  into  Liguria  and  Provence  ;  and  especially  may  we 
infer  tliat  tliis  was  the  case  at  Hyeres,  whicli  was  one  of 
their  ports  of  embarkation  ;  but  the  cultivation  of  the  tree 
on  a  large  scale  at  Bordigliera  only  dates  back  to  the  end 
of  the  sixteenth  century,  and  owes  its  origin  to  an  incident 
which   occurred   in   Rome   on   the   10th   of    September, 

1586. 

The  great  basilica  of  St.  Peter  was  then  under  con- 

struction,   and   Sixtus   V.    had    ordered    the    architect, 

Domenico    Fontana,    to   place   in   front    of    the  fa^-ade 

of  that  church   an   Egyptian   obelisk   which   hud   been 


FLORA. 


333 


found  in  the  amphitheatre  of  Nero,  the  actual  site  of  the 

sacristy. 

This  operation,  which  modern  engineers  would  have 
found  a  perfectly  easy  one,  was  full  of  difficulties  to  those 
of  that  period ;  indeed,  it  was  looked  upon  as  one  of  an 
important  and  serious  character,  and  was  accompanied  by 
all  that  pomp  with  which  the  Papacy  habitually  surrounds 
its  great  functions. 

Sixtus  V.  said  a  solemn  mass,  and  gave  his  benediction 
to  the  workmen,  who  numbered  eight  hundred,  besides 
forty  horses,  and  then  adjourned  with  all  his  suite  to  the 
grand  balcony,  in  order  that  he  might  witness  the  opera- 
tion.    A  mass  of  people,  full  of  enthusiasm  for  art,  filled 
to  overflowing  the  vast  pVma,  and  perfect  silence  reigned 
throughout  the  immense  and  excited  crowd,  owing  to  a 
cruel  order  threatening  death  to  any  one  who  uttered  a 
cry.     Everything  went  well  until  the  moment  when  the 
enormous  block  of  granite  was  on  the  point  of  attaining  its 
upright  position,  but  at  this  critical  moment  the  ropes, 
stretching  under  the  excessive  strain,  began  to  slacken. 
Instantly  a  loud  voice  broke  the  silence,  and  in  spite  of 
the  penalty,  rang  through  the  air,  exclaiming,  "  Wet  the 
ropes!''     This  most  opportune  advice  was  immediately 
followed,  bringing  the  affair  safely  through  the  crisis  to  a 
successful  termination.     It  turned  out,  on  inquiry  being 
made,  that  the  speaker  was  a  certain  Bresca,  the  captain 
of  a  merchant  vessel  hailing  from  San  Kemo.     The  Pope 
ordered  the  gallant  sailor  to  be  brought  into  his  presence, 
and,  far  from  punishing  him,  presented  him  with  a  hand- 
some sw^ord,  and,  more  important  than  this,  granted  to 
his  family  the  privilege  of  supplying  palms  to  the  Vatican 
for  Palm  Sunday  and  the  Holy  Week  Services. 


334 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


GRAMiNACEiE,  the  Grass  Family. 


Laguriis  ova  t us. 

Brim  maxima^  Large  Quaking  Grass. 
„     minima^  Little  Quakmg  Grass. 
Stipa  pennata.  Feather  Grass. 

The  Grasses  of  this  iieigliboiirhood  offer  hardly  any  in- 
terest to  the  amateur  botanist,  for  they  do  not  differ 
sensibly  from  those  of  Northern  Europe.  The  Siipa  pen- 
nata,  with  its  long,  feathery  edges,  is  only  to  be  found  on 
the  higher  mountain  ranges. 

Ariindo  dmax,  tlie  Provencal  Cane. 

This  is  probably  a  native  of  Asia,  but  is  now  cultivated 
over  the  whole  of  the  Soutli  of  Europe. 

It  is  to  a  certain  extent  a  classic  plant,  for  from  it  were 
manufactured  the  first  musical  instruments ;  probably  it 
was  from  this  reed  the  great  god  Pan  cut  his  pipe,  and 
from  which  he  discoursed  such  strange  music.  Everyone 
is  conversant,  too,  with  the  line  in  Virgil : 

"  Agrestem  teniii  medi tabor  arundine  musam." 

FiLicES,  Ferns. 

Ceteruch  ojlcinariim. 
Asplenium  rutd-m uraria. 

,,  adifinttcni  nigrum, 

Folypod ill m  v uhjare. 

These  four  varieties  are  numerous  on  old  walls  in  all 
moist  and  sheltered  positions. 

Adiantum  capillus-  VmeriSy  Maiden  Hair. 

This  gem  of  the  flora  of  Southern  Europe  carpets  the 

rocks  in  some  especially  moist  situations,  and  particularly 

the  Vallm  Ohscur,  near  Nice ;  it  is  also  found  amongst 

the  crevices  of  the  stones  which  form  the  well-sides,  and 


H'LOEA. 


335 


in  the  fissures  of  the  rocks  from  whence  the  springs  emerge 
into  daylight ;  and  it  is  the  belief  of  the  peasantry  that 
the  presence  of  this  fern  is  a  sign  that  the  water  is  espe- 
cially pure. 

Pteris  aquilina^  Common  Brake. 
„      cretica. 

These  are  rather  rare,  but  found  occasionally  in  the 
damp  woods ;  the  latter  especially,  with  its  entire  fronds. 

Aspidium  fiUx-maSf  Male  Fern. 

The  only  large  fern  which  grows  low  down  near  the 
coast ;  it  is  fairly  common  in  our  valleys. 


(     336     ) 


P  A  17  T     V 

ARTISTIC  FEATURES  OF  BORDIGHERA.' 
By  M.  Charles  Garnier,  Architect. 


-tOt- 


Jl* 


To  Artists. 

We  may  take  it,  I  think,  as  a  general  rule,  tliat  artists  as 
a  body  do  not  care  to  have  subjects  either  for  sketches  or 
finished  works  pointed  out  to  them.  They  iniiuitely  prefer 
to  wander  hither  and  thither  at  will,  and  discover  for  them- 
selves those  picturesque  spots,  those  tempting  '*  bits " 
which  they  find  so  great  a  delight  in  transferring  to  their 
sketch-book  or  canvas.  If,  then,  it  always  happened  that 
the  artists  who  visited  Bordighera  came  there  intending 
to  make  a  long  stay,  I  at  least  should  be  the  last  to 
anticipate  their  impressions,  but  should  leave  them  to 
ramble  haphazard,  feeling  certain  tliat  their  artistic  in- 
stinct would  direct  them  to  all  the  interesting  points  of 
the  neighbourhood.  But  it  is  probable  that  some  of  the 
landscape  painters  and  amateur  artists  who  visit  this  spot 
do  little  more  (if  it  is  allowable  to  say  so)  than  take  a 

♦  This  interesting  description  of  Bordighera  considered  from  an  artistic 
point  of  view  has  already  been  published  in  two  successive  editions  of  my 
little  guide-book  :  Bordighera  in  gennaio,  Vaik-Mecum  del  Forestiere. 


TO   ARTISTS. 


337 


hasty  turn  round  ;  and  it  is  possible  therefore,  that,  in 
spite  of  their  innate  faculty  for  discovering  beautiful  "  sub- 
jects," they  may  pass  over  the  most  picturesque  spots 
and  lovely  and  characteristic  views,  without  being  aware 
of  their  existence.  Thus,  they  would  not  only  lose  the 
enjoyment  which  such  exquisite  views  would  give  them, 
but  also  fail  to  carry  away  a  just  recollection  of  Bordi- 
ghera :  a  result,  if  possible,  to  be  avoided. 

I  think,  therefore,  that  I  may  be  rendering  a  service  to 
those  artists  who  are  but  birds  of  passage,  and  to  all  lovers 
of  the  picturesque  who  have  but  a  short  time  to  stay  in 
this  lovely  corner  of  the  Riviera,  if  I  attempt  to  point  out 
some  of  the  places  they  ought  to  visit,  if  they  wish  to  fix 
on  their  minds,  if  not  on  their  canvasses  or  in  their  sketch- 
books, some  of  those  innumerable  subjects,  as  quaint  as 
characteristic,  which  make  Bordighera  unlike  any  other 
town  in  the  world. 

For  in  truth  Bordighera  is  far  less  Italy  than  Palestine, 
and  without  crossing  the  sea,  we  can  imagine,  if  so  inclined, 
as  we  wander  through  the  old  town  and  its  environs,  that 
we  have  been  transported  to  the  Holy  Land,  and,  in  one 
particular  spot,  even  to  the  kingdom  of  the  Pharaohs. 

But  it  is  not  my  wish  to  write  pages  of  description.  I  am 
only  anxious  to  be  of  use  to  those  who  have  but  little  time 
at  their  disposal ;  though  perhaps,  indeed,  some  of  the  in- 
formation I  am  able  to  give  may  prove  of  interest  even  to 
those  of  our  visitors  who  are  spending  some  time  at  Bor- 
dighera. 

In  the  following  pages  I  have  called  attention  to  some 
of  the  most  interesting  points  of  view  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. I  do  not  attempt  to  class  them  in  order  of  merit, 
for  each  has  its  especial  charm ;  but  I  have  grouped  them 

z 


338 


ARTISTIC  FEATURES. 


into  a  series  of  walks,  which  will  enable  the  tourist  to 
visit  the  spots  referred  to. 

11. 

The  Tower  of  Mostaccini. 

We   will   imagine  our  artist  starting   from   the   little 
Piazza  facing  the  church  steps  in  the  old  town.      Passing 
the  square  where  stands  tlie  fountain,  he  must  turn  to  the 
right,  then  to  the  left,  and  he  will  find  himself  in  the 
narrow  passage  leading  to  the  aqueduct,  where  all  the 
washerwomen  of  Bordighera  are  engaged  in  tlieir  work. 
Crossing  the  little  stream   wliich   renders   their  labours 
possible,  he  must  take  the  somewhat  steep  little  path 
on  the  other  side,  and  having  reached  the  extreme  point, 
turn  to  the  left ;  he  will  then  be  on  the  direct  path  to  the 
old  fountain  (Fontana  Veeehia),  and  cannot  fail  by  any 
chance  to  lose  his  way.     The  first  part  of  this  path  is  very 
beautiful,  as  indeed  are  all  in  this  part  of  the  Eiviera,  but 
it  possesses  no  special  character.     But  continue  the  walk, 
and  we  shall  soon  arrive  at  the  old  fountain,  a  little  spring 
situated    at    the    corner    of    the    road,    and    which    is 
decidedly  picturesque  in  appearance.     In  front  of  this 
fountain,  where  the  ground  shelves  suddenly  and  forms  a 
hollow,  is  a  very  shut  in  valley,  now  part  of  M.  Bischoff- 
sheim's   property,  which  is  quite  worth  spending  a  few 
minutes  in  visiting ;  but  it  will  be  best  at  present  if  we 
merely  content  ourselves  with  descending  a  few  steps,  and 
leaving  the  pretty  valley  to  be  explored  on  our  return. 
Any  way,  those  who  follow  it  through  its  whole  length 
will  find  charming  subjects  for  their  sketch-book,  already 
composed  for  them,  and  full  of  rich  colour.     But  we  must 


THE   TOWER   OF   MOSTACCINI. 


339 


still  follow  the  path,  and  after  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour's 

walking,  shall  arrive  at  the  upper  end  of  another  valley, 

which  we  must  examine  carefully  on  our  return,  for  it  is  a 

very  remarkable  one.    The  road  now  divides  ;  one  branch 

at  once  ascending,  and  the  other,  the  continuation  of  that 

we  have  so  far  followed,   turning  obliquely  to  the  left. 

Tliis  it  is,  along  which  we  must  still  pursue  our  walk :    it 

now  becomes  very  bad  and  stony,  and  leads  us  to  the 

bottom  of  the  massive  rocks  upon  which  is  built  the  tower 

of  Mostaccini.     At  this  point,  where  the  almost  vertical 

rock  towers  in  front  of  us,  dressed  in  its  robe  of  ivy  and 

wild  briar,  we  shall  find  two  or  three  grand  subjects,  full 

of  wildness  and  character.   This  superb  rock  to  the  left, 

in  front  of  us  the  sea,  to  our  right  the  French  mountains, 

the  whole  of  the  foreground  broken  up  by  the  masses  of 

olive  trees,  form  together  a  wonderful  picture,  offering 

magnificent  subjects  of  untamed  and  savage  nature. 

We  must  now  take  the  little  path  which  it  is  somewhat 
difficult  to  make  out,  so  slightly  marked  is  it,  which 
passes  below  the  rocks  upon  the  left,  and  follow  it  steadily 
until  it  passes  the  fragments  of  an  old  wall;  a  little 
beyond  tliis  we  shall  find  our  track  is  crossed  by  a  little 
path  which  winds  up  the  mountain  in  the  opposite  direction, 
and  shortly  we  arrive  at  what  appears  to  be  an  old  ruin, 
almost  hi(klen  by  masses  of  brambles.  It  is  at  this  point 
that  the  view  is  most  beautiful  and  most  extensive. 

I  have  no  intention  of  describing  it,  but  only  wish  to 
indicate  as  precisely  as  possible  the  exact  point  from 
which  it  is  to  be  obtained.  For  it  is  a  view,  I  do  not 
hesitate  to  say,  which  from  its  panoramic  character  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  the  world. 

We  can  now  proceed  to.  the  Tower,  either  by  taking  the 

z  2 


340 


AUTISTIC   FEATUTIES. 


little  path  on  our  left,  or  by  climbing  that  which  is  little 
better  than  an  apology  for  a  path,  which  we  find  to  the 
right:  butli  of  these  will  lead  us  to  our  destination, which 
is°now  barely  150  yards  distant.  Here  also  a  very  lovely 
view  is  to  be  obtained,  but  personally  1  much  prefer  the 

former. 

We  must  now  pass  by  the  stone  wall  raised  in  front 
of  the  tower,  and  turn  again  into  the  little  bridle-path 
which  descends  on   our   right,  and   by  which  we  shall 
arrive  almost  immediately  at  the  level  plateau,  where 
is  tlie  cluster  of  pines  whieli  crowns  that  portion  of  the 
summit.     Before  continuing  the  track  which  leads  us  back 
again  to  the  plain,  let  us  stop  for  a  few  moments  on  the 
pine  crest  and  turn  our  eyes  towards  the  left :  here  are  at 
least  four  or  five  delightful  subjects  for  our  sketch-books. 
which  seem  to  stand  out  from  their  surroundings,  as  if  only 
waiting  to  be  reproduced  on  canvas.     This  is  an  especially 
characteristic  corner  of  Bordighera,  and  one  which  is  not 
likely  to  be  soon  forgotten.     It  is  not  of  course  possible  to 
indicate  the  exact  spots  where  one  should  place  one's  self 
to  get  these  suggestive  subjects  in  the  best  possible  aspect : 
but  any  painter  or  sketcher  possessing  the  artistic  faculty, 
once  brought  to  this  place,  will  choose  for  himself,  and 
cannot  fail  to  choose  satisfactorily.     Let  us  now  descend 
the  path  (here  very  steep  and  badly  cut)  as  it  winds 
serpent-like  down  the  face  of  the  crumbling  hill,  and 
either  by  continuing  along  it,  or  by  taking  the  path  cut 
by  M.  Bischoffsheim  as  a  plan  for  a  road,  we  arrive  at  the 

bottom  of  the  hill. 

Then,  instead  of  following  the  road,  we  will  turn  to  the 
left,  for  the  path  is  sufficiently  marked  to  enable  us  to 
trace  it ;  besides,  it  has  the  further  attraction  that  it  creeps 


THE   TOWER   OF   MOSTACCINI. 


341 


along  the  right  bank  of  the  little  torrent,  almost  always 
dry,  which  forms  the  lower  part  of  the  valley  up  which  I 
am  anxious  we  should  wander.  It  is  in  this  valley  that  the 
landscape  painter  will  find  the  most  tempting  subjects 
imaginable,  with  powerful  lights  and  shadows ;  whilst  even 
the  ordinary  tourist,  who  chances  to  discover  tliis  spot,  will 
find  shade,  a  refreshing  breeze,  peaceful  solitude,  and  all 
those  hundred  and  one  charms  so  dear  to  the  tired  pedes- 
trian, longing  for  a  resting-place. 

When  sufficiently  rested,  we  will  again  move  forward, 
continuing  to  mount  the  torrent,  until  we  find  on  our  left 
some  rocks  rising  almost  perpendicularly  :  here  let  us  leave 
the  i»at]i  for  a  little,  and  wandering  hither  and  thither, 
enjoy  the  ever  fresh  and  always  charming  "  bits "  which 
continually  present  themselves  to  our  view.  Pass  across 
also,  if  you  are  inclined,  to  the  right  side  of  the  torrent, 
follow  the  bed  of  it  for  a  time  and  in  the  little  ecole 
huissonniere,  to  which  I  w^ould  guide  you,  you  will  find, 
amidst  periwinkles,  violets,  flags,  &e.,  a  path  which  will 
more  than  once  stop  you  short  with  the  longing  to  transfer 
some  of  its  beauties  to  the  sketch-book,  which  should  be 
your  constant  companion. 

If  we  follow  this  as  far  as  the  top  of  the  ravine,  we  can, 
if  so  inclined,  return  by  the  road  leading  to  the  Fontana 
Vecchia ;  but  this  is  rather  waste  of  time,  for  the  upper  jjart 
of  this  torrent  is  not  equal  to  the  lower.  So  it  is  prefer- 
able only  to  go  on,  until  on  our  right  hand  we  see  a  sort 
of  arched  glade,  flanked  by  a  large  vertical  rock  covered 
with  ivy  ;  cross  this  aperture  by  a  jump,  and  climb,  even 
though  it  may  cost  you  some  little  trouble,  towards  the 
right,  so  as  to  arrive  helow  the  rock  just  referred  to.  Here 
the  path  is  very  difficult  to  indicate ;  indeed,  it  may  be 


III 


342 


AUTISTIC    FExVTUKES. 


said  to  be  noii-existeiit,  and  what  does  exist  is  far  from 
being  horizontal :  it  follows  the  rows  of  olive  trees,  and  this 
necessitates  one's  passing  and  repassing,  as  one  progresses, 
close  to  some  of  the  finest  trees  it  is  possible  to  see,  some 
above,  some  below  us,  according  to  the  height  we  have 
reached.   Let  us  turn  our  backs  now  on  Bordighera  and  our 
steps  into  the  very  heart  of  this  lovely  forest,  where  many 
of  the  trees  are  centuries  old.     We  may  chance  here  to 
lose  ourselves,  but  it  will  be  nothing  serious.  Any  way,  we 
shall  most  probably  arrive  at  the  little  ravine  before  men- 
tioned, the  ravine  of  the  Fontana  Vecchia.     We  will  cross 
it  if  we  can,  or  rather  if  we  feel  inclined,  for  this  is  not 
anywhere  a  difficult  operation.   However,  I  wi^rn  you  that 
here  we  shall  be  trespassing  on  a  portion  of  the  grounds  of 
the  Villa  Bischoffsheim,  so  that  it  will  perhaps  be  prefer- 
able  to  enter   by  the  gate  which  opens  on  the  Strada 
Komam,     Besides,  we  can  see  the  villa  at  the  same  time, 
for  the  gate  is  always  open  to  all  who  care  to  enter ;  and 
if  I  am  not  able  to  say  a  good  word  for  it,  I  hope  you  at 
least  will  not  think  any  ill  of  it*     Then,  if  you  are  not 
knocked-up  with  seeing  so  many  beautiful  effects,  and  each 
as  characteristic  as  it  is  beautiful,  give  one  farewell  glance 
around  this  lovely  spot,  and  then  we  will  go  out  by  the  door 
which  opens  out  of  the  rustic  fence  dividing  the  garden 
from  the  olive  woods.     Here  we  re-emerge  on  the  path 
leading  to  the  Fontana    Vecehia,  but  are  compelled  to 
descend  several  of  the  terraces,  as  the  track  follows  the 
winding  of  the  fence.  Then,  continuing  our  walk,  we  very 
soon  arrive  at  a  bai'e  and  open  spot,  a  sort  of  clearing  on 

*  The  author  of  these  papers  is  also  the  architect  of  the  villa  in  question, 
one  of  the  handsomest  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  which  was  selected  for  the 
residence  of  the  Queen  of  Italy  m  tlic  spring  of  1880.-A.  V.  D. 


THE   TOWER   OF   MOSTACOINI. 


343 


the  hill  side,  where  is  a  little  white  building,  having  a 
black  cross  painted  above  the  door ;  this  is  the  point  which 
tells  us  that  a  good  path  is  close  at  hand.  We  pass  onwards, 
along  one  of  the  vine  terraces  below,  and  at  the  end  of 
that  which  has  an  enormous  fig-tree  growing  out  of  the 
supporting  wall,  we  shall  find  the  path  we  are  in  quest  of; 
it  is  a  capital  one,  and  will  lead  us  direct  to  Bordighera,  to 
the  very  point  from  whence  we  left  it.    Here  I  shall  bid 
you  farewell,  with  hope  that  the  excursion  we  have  just 
made  together  has  been  a  pleasant  one.     Only  one  thing 
I  must  ask  you  to  bear  in  mind,  in  taking  it  alone  or  intro- 
ducing it  to  a  new  comer,  that  it  should  always  be  made 
in  tlie  afternoon,  for  at  that  period  of  the  day  both  the 
mountains  and  valleys  have  a  better  light  upon  them. 

III. 

SiG.  Moreno's  Garden. 

It  is  unnecessary  for  mo  to  tell  you  how  to  find  this 
marvellous  garden,  the  pearl  of  Bordighera ;  anyone  will 
show  you  the  way.  Indeed,  I  am  almost  ashamed  to 
mention  this  garden,  for  it  is  almost  as  if  I  were  men- 
tioning the  sea !  Any  way  it  ought  not  to  be  neglected 
by  artists,  as,  apart  from  the  extremely  rare  and  interest- 
ing plants  and  shrubs  which  it  contains  in  great  numbers, 
there  are  certain  delightful  corners,  thoroughly  charac- 
teristic of  the  place  and  worthy  of  admiration  from  all  who 
love  nature  and  her  handiwork.  For  example,  this  large 
pool  or  reservoir,  surrounded  by  those  clumps  of  enormous 
palms,— can  anything  be  more  characteristic,  more  oriental 
or  more  suggestive  of  the  Arabian  Nights?  And  the 
lower  portion  of  the  garden  too ;  can  one  ever  visit  it  too 


344 


ARTISTIC   FEATUREP. 


often— with  its  twisted  palms,  creeping  everywhere,  and  all 
entangled  the  one  with  the  other?   At  each  step,  new  pic- 
tures, fresh  combinations  present  themselves  to  our  eyes,  and 
tlie  painter  is  only  embarrassed  by  the  variety  ready  to  his 
choice  :  embarrassed  very  greatly  indeed  in  this  enchanted 
garden  of  E  len  ;  but  can  a  stronger  proof  be  wanting  of 
the  number  and  variety  of  the  subjects  it  offers  for  our 
sketcli-book  ?    Do  not  delay  then,  0  painters  and  brotiiers 
of  the  brush,  to  visit  this  garden,  for   it   is  unique  in 
Europe:  study  those  clumps  of  Palm  trees,  the  Phoenix 
daetj/Iifera,  the  Chamoerops,  tlie  Latania,  mingled  with 
the  Bananas,  the  Oranges  of  every  variety ;  and  if  you  do 
not  reproduce  anything   on  your   canvas,  at   least  you 
will  have  added  to   the  storehouse  of  your   memory  a 
radiant  corner  of  the  East,  and  your  imagination  cannot 
fail  to  be  more  poetical,  by  contact  with  its  enchantment. 

jY 

The  Cape  of  St.  Abipelio. 

I  am  not  desirous  now  of  speaking  of  the  view  from  the 
Cape,  nor  of  the  Cape  itself,  as  a  place  for  a  stroll.  As 
such  it  is  the  first  place  which  should  be  visited  by  every 
stranger  on  his  arrival  at  Bordighera,  and  a  tourist  must 
indeed  be  hard  to  please  if  he  is  not  charmed  with  it.  But 
I  am  anxious  especially  to  call  attention  to  that  portion  of  it 
formed  by  the  jutting-out  rocks,  wliich  is  seen  from  the 
Cornice  Eoad,  at  the  point  where  stands  the  little  chapel 
of  St.  Ampelio.  Here  there  is  a  little  roofless  hut,  close 
to  which  is  a  winding  ascent  leading  to  a  rude  bastion, 
and  close  by  a  large  wooden  cross,  which  give  to  the 
whole  a  character,  if  we  may  use  the  term,  of  grandeur 


cape   ST.    AMPELIO. 


345 


and  simplicity  combined  which  is  unequalled  along  the 
Riviera.  The  soft  line  which  crowns  tlie  Cape,  the  roofs 
of  some  old  houses  which  rise  just  above,  two  or  three 
stunted  olives  lower  down  to  the  left,  and  the  gorgeous 
colouring  of  the  foreground,  make  this  corner  of  Bordi- 
ghera like  a  bit  of  the  East,  or  perhaps  rather  one  of  those 
subjects,  purely  oriental  in  character,  which  delight  the 
imagination,  and  to  which  our  memory  is  ever  ready  to 
return. 

Look  also  in  the  direction  of  the  entrance  to  the  rail- 
way  tunnel   with   the   deep  blue  of  the  Mediterranean 
forming  a  wonderful  background  !     What  a  picture  to  de- 
light an  artist's  eyes !   and  one  as  striking  as  typical ; 
and  I  vow,  that  so  far  as  I  personally  am  concerned,  I 
would  most  willingly  give  up  all  of  the  famous  promenades 
of  the  great  capitals  of  Europe  for  this  exquisite  little  bit 
of  the  East ;  the   characteristics   of  which  are   stamped 
around   us   in   all  their   fulness   and   beauty.     Ah!   my 
brother  artists,  look  well,  I  pray  you,  at  this  little  corner, 
with  its  rich  colouring  :  out  with  your  sketch-books  and 
your  canvasses ;  make  your  studies  and  pictures  whilst  it 
is  still  possible  to  do  so,  and  endeavour  to  reproduce  this 
exquisite   bit  of  this  most  beautiful  neighbourhood ;  for 
alas!   it   is   more   than  probable   this   striking   page   of 
nature's  book  is  destined  soon  to  disappear !     Bordighera 
has  taken,  like  so  many  places  along  the  Riviera,  a  great 
start  forwards,  and  is  entering  upon  a  new  existence :  it  is 
rapidly  becoming   a  town,  luxurious  if  not   fashionable, 
instead  of  a  simple  and  picturesque  village ;  and  it  is  not 
improbable,   therefore,  that    before  very   long,   perhaps 
sooner    than    many   think,   this    unique    cape    may   be 
transformed   into  the  conventional  square ;  if,  indeed,  it 


346 


ARTISTIC   FEATURES. 


may  not  have  erected  upon  it  an  ostentatious  Casino  with 
all  its  meritricious  accompaniments !  Then  farewell  fur 
ever  to  the  artistic  character  of  the  place !  For  the 
Eastern  surroundings  will  disappear  and  fjjive  place  to  the 
feeble  conventionalities  of  Western  civilisation,  and  those 
rich  and  picturesque  gifts,  which  nature,  time,  and  even 
the  poverty  of  the  country  have  combined  to  give  us,  will 
but  survive  in  tlie  recollection  of  tlie  past. 

I  beseech,  therefore,  all  those  having  authority  and  in- 
fhunce  in  our  little  community  to  preserve,  as  far  as 
possible,  the  three  great  features  of  Bordighera ;  viz.  the 
Old  Town,  the  eastern  side  of  the  Sassu  torrent,  and  the 
Ca[)('  facing  St.  Ampelio's  chapel.  We  must  think  of  the 
Artists,  as  much  as  we  do  of  the  winter  visitors ;  for  it  is 
the  former,  let  us  remember,  to  whom  the  reputation  of 
Bordighera  is  due.  Who  knows  that  in  the  future,  when 
our  visitors  may  have  departed  tootlicr  still  unmodernised 
towns,  tliat  it  will  not  be  to  the  painters,  we  shall  have  to 
go,  if  we  desire  to  bring  back  to  our  recollection  this  City 
of  Palm  Trees  ?  Do  not  let  us  then  allow  this  part  at 
least  to  be  transformed ;  let  the  west  side,  if  you  will, 
become  the  Iiome  of  our  winter  residents  and  visitors,  but, 
in  Heaven's  name,  stop  at  the  Cape  and  leave  its  natural 
picturesqueness  to  remain  just  as  Nature  has  presented 
it  to  us.  Whatever  happens,  let  us  not  add  a  touch  to  this 
roofless  cottage,  this  ruined  bastion,  this  zig-zag  path, 
the  rocks  which  blush  in  the  sunset,  or  the  little  olives, 
which  in  their  unpruned  luxuriousness  have  a  delicacy  of 
outline  most  graceful  and  ideally  beautiful. 

You  have  there,  Bordighesi,  in  truth,  a  rough  diamond ; 
do  not  try  and  make  a  too  costly  casket,  or  it  is  possible 
that  in  so  doing  you  may  chance  to  hide  your  gem. 


(     347     ) 


V. 


The  Old  Town. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  in  bygone  days  there  must  have 
existed  a  Good  Genius,  who  took  the  landscape  painter 
especially  under  his  protection.  This  Good  Genius  built 
all  the  narrow  and  winding  streets,  designed  the 
old  towns  which  are  perched  upon  the  hillsides,  sur- 
rounded tlie  cities  with  towers  and  ramparts,  and  above 
all,  threw  the  sunbeams  into  the  many  cracks  and  crevices 
and  allowed  the  moonlight  to  glisten  so  weirdly  on  the 
deep  gateways  and  lofty  CampaniU.  However,  in  the 
present  day,  this  kindly  Spirit  appears  to  be  somewhat 
exhausted  by  his  labours — " played  out"  the  Americans 
might  term  it— and  his  place  has  been  filled  by  the  Genius 
of  the  Civil  Engineer,  whose  idea  of  beauty  is  a  horizon- 
tal plane,  a  straight  line,  and  an  angle  of  90  degrees ! 
You  will  not  take  long  in  finding  out  what  pranks  the 
latter  has  been  playing  in  our  neighbourhood,  as  every- 
where else;  let  us  trust,  however,  that  he  may  be  so 
fatigued  by  his  journey,  as  at  least  to  leave  untouclied  the 
Old  Town,  to  some  of  the  picturesque  bits  of  which  I  now 
proposed  to  introduce  you.  For  all  true  artists  will  re- 
joice to  find  in  this  old  portion  of  Bordighera  one  of  the 
works  of  the  Good  Genius  just  referred  to;  here  they 
can  penetrate  into  thousands  of  little  corners,  in  each 
of  which  a  sul)ject  may  be  found,  as  characteristic  as 
picturesque. 

The  Via  Dritta,  which  leads  from  the  town  to  Signer 
Moreno's  Garden,  is  one  of  these  typical  bits:  or  two, 
rather ;  for  you  can  either  place  yourself  at  tlie  bottom  of 


348 


AUTISTIC   FEATURES. 


the  steep  declivity  with  the  old  Gateway  as  a  background  ; 
or,  better  still,  reverse  your  position  :  let  the  old  Town  Gate 
serve  as  a  border  and  foreground;  allowing  you  to  see 
through  the  arch  the  panorama  it  encloses,  standing  out 
in  full  relief.  The  composition  is  as  perfect  in  one  as  in  the 
other,  and  more  than  one  artist  of  my  acquaintance  has 
already  reproduced  them.  As  to  the  little  Piazza  in 
which  the  church  stands,  it  is  a  composition  which  is 
simply  perfect  in  its  details,  especially  \Nhen,  standing 
alongside  the  door  of  the  parish  church,  one  views  the 
Campanile  rising  from  the  curious  base  formed  by  the 
black-toned  arcades.  There  is  indeed,  in  the  Imrmoniuus 
effect  produced,  sometliing  which  reminds  one  of  Verona 
or  Vicenza,  and  une  is  compelled  to  admit,  that  under  all 
circumstances,  this  place,  so  viewed,  possesses  a  character 
which  is  essentially  Italian.  And,  if  you  will  believe  it 
possible,  they  have  actually  thought  of  pulling  down  these 
old  houses  in  order  to  open  up  a  communication  between 
this  piazza  and  the  Via  Lunga.  It  would  have  been 
nothing  less  than  an  act  of  the  most  horrible  vandalism, 
viewed  either  from  an  artistic  or  common-sense  point  of 
view.  Already  indeed,  the  authorities  have  gone  so  far  as 
to  colour  with  a  whitish  yellow  tint  the  rez-de-chaussee  of  the 
Portico  on  the  right,  which  was  formerly  so  harmonious  in 
its  neutral  tones  of  smoky  line.  But  after  all,  one  must 
not  expect  everything,  and  by  degrees  this  yello^v  wash 
will  return  again  to  the  more  harmonious  tints  of  the  past, 
but  this  will  not  apply  to  the  proposed  demolition  of  which 
I  spoke ;  for  time  in  that  case  would  be  powerless  to  cure 
the  evil,  should  it  ever  chance  to  take  place. 

If,  however,  the  authorities  of  Bordigliera  wisli  to  turn 
thi  ir  attention  to  this  curious  old  spot,  which  is  in  fact  the 


THE   OLD    TOWN. 


349 


most  interesting  point  of  the  town,  they  can  do  so,  not 
only  without  interfering  with  its  picturesque  character, 
but,  on  the  contrary,  by  carrying  out  an  improvement 
which  will  much  intensify  its  already  marked  individuality  : 
I  mean  by  replacing  the  sharply  pointed  and  painful 
stones  (boulders,  rather),  which  at  present  serve  for  pave- 
ment, by  flagstones  of  a  large  size,  which  we  see  now  in 
most  of  the  Italian  towns.  Nothing  is  pleasanter  to  the 
eye,  or  more  agreeable  and  quieter  to  walk  upon,  or  would 
better  contribute  to  give  a  sort  of  eomme  il  faxit  discret 
to  the  streets  and  piazzas,  making  them  both  attractive 
and  artistic.  This  it  is  which  artists  must  demand, 
and  when  the  fagade  of  the  old  church  has  to  a  certain 
extent  been  restored,  not  modernised  but  in  the 
Italian  style  of  its  date,  one  will  find  in  Bordighera  a  sort 
of  little  Forum,  which  will  not  be  the  least  interesting 
amongst  the  marvellous  camjyi  of  Italy.  However, 
whilst  we  are  waiting  to  see  these  wishes  realised,  there  is 
already  plenty  to  delight  and  occupy  the  eye  of  a  painter, 
and  the  circuit  of  the  old  ramparts,  both  inside  and  out, 
offers  to  him  at  once  only  one  of  a  number  of  subjects 
which,  added  to  those  I  have  already  mentioned,  are  suf- 
ficient to  show  that  the  artist  who  desires  to  reproduce  the 
characteristics  of  the  old  town  will  not  be  obliged  to  stand 
idle,  but  has  merely  to  select  from  subjects  which  are  as 
charming  as  they  are  varied. 

As  to  the  town  as  seen  from  the  exterior,  it  presents  on 
its  four  sides  four  different  aspects,  all  very  simple,  but 
of  most  harmonious  lines.  The  two  most  interesting  are : 
first,  that  looking  to  the  west  from  the  front  of  the 
Pension  A^iglaise,  and  which,  rising  as  it  does  from  the 
picturesque  rock,  has  a  very  striking  appearance;  and 


350 


AKTISTIC   FEATURES. 


secondly,  that  which  is  best  viewed  from  the  Camjjariile  of 
my  villa,  Tliere,  the  lines  are  botli  dignified  and  grace- 
ful, and  the  outline  of  the  bell  tower  of  the  commune 
crowns  to  perfection  this  collection  of  walls  and  of 
darkly  toned  houses,  whicli  stand  out  sharp  and  clear 
against  the  cloudless  sky,  all  coloured  as  it  is  by  the  rays 
of  the  setting  sun. 

VI. 

The  Villa  Charles  Gatinier. 

If  I  mention  this  villa,  I  must  beg  the  reader  to  under- 
stand that  I  do  not  do  so  to  praise  it,  or  to  call  attention 
to  any  artistic  features  it  may  chance  to  possess.  But  I 
have  thought  it  my  duty  not  to  pass  it  over  in  silence, 
because  from  its  terrar-es  and  its  Campanile  the  most 
lovely  view  can  be  obtained,  and  some  very  charming 
subjects,  suitable  to  the  landscape  painter,  are  to  be  found 
in  the  garden.  I  wish  above  all  to  make  it  clear  to  any 
stranger  who  may  visit  onr  town,  that  the  door  of  the' 
villa  stands  always  open  to  those  who  may  care  to  enter. 
I  am  not  perliaps  able  to  offer  them  any  great  attraction, 
but  I  am  at  least  anxious  to  adopt  to  strangers  thehos})i- 
tality  which  is  everywhere  found  in  Italy,  whose  inhabit- 
ants always  open  to  the  passer-by  not  oidy  their  public 
buildings,  but  even  their  private  houses  and  their  homes. 

VII. 

The  Sasso  Torrent. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  points  of  Bordighera, 
and  the  excursion  which  I  am  now  about  to  sketch  out  is 
one  of  those  which  every  lover  of  nature,  let  alone   an 


THE   SASSO   TORRENT. 


351 


artist,  should  not  fail  to  make  before  he  moves  forward. 
It  is  besides  both  a  short  and  a  pleasant  one,  and  can  be 
easily  made  without  the  aid  of  a  guide.  If,  then,  I  venture 
to  take  the  reader  by  the  hand,  as  we  take  this  walk  to- 
gether, it  is  more  for  the  sake  of  not  leaving  the  spot 
unmentioned,  than  because  I  think  I  can  be  of  real 
assistance  to  him.  For,  to  be  perfectly  honest,  there  is 
nothing  which  gives  me  greater  pleasure  tlian  to  take  this 
walk  as  often  as  I  can ;  so  perhaps  I  shall  be  allowed  the 
equal  pleasure  of  describing  it. 

We  must  then  turn  off  at  the  common  lavatory  (where 
the  washerwomen  ''most  do  congregate"),  of  which  I  have 
before  spoken,  on  the  road  to  the  Fontana  Vecchia,  but 
now  to  the  right,  and  follow  the  little  canal  which  conveys 
water  for  irrigation. 

Our  path  at  first  lies  along  the  covered  aqueduct  (this 
supplying  the  drinking  water  for  the  townspeople),  and  if 
the  road  is  not  very  broad,  it  is  at  least  nearly  horizontal, 
and  we  can  follow  it  without  the  least  fatigue.  After 
going  forward  for  some  time  along  a  sort  of  alley  formed 
by  the  higli  walls  of  various  private  gardens,  above  which 
we  notice  the  tufted  heads  of  some  very  beautiful  palm- 
trees,  we  arrive  at  some  patches  of  cultivated  land,  where 
are  some  magnificent  olive  trees,  growing  upon  terraces 
supported  by  massive  stone  walls,  which  are  wonderful  to 
look  upon,  and  form  a  glorious  foreground  to  the  masses  of 
trees  of  every  description.  At  each  step  we  take  the  view 
changes,  but  ever  presenting  the  same  character,  viz. 
Italy  and  especially  the  neighbourhood  of  Naples ;  and  it  is 
indeed  an  endless  delight  to  our  eyes,  a  veritable  pano- 
rama, only  broken  by  a  corner  here  and  there,  which  does 
but  give  to  each  picture  not  only  completeness,  but 
individualitv. 


352 


ARTISTIC   FEATURES. 


There  is  also  the  wood  below,  with  its  harmonious  tones, 
with  its  graceful  and  varied  foliage ;  these  alone  are  suffi- 
cient to  arrest  the  footsteps  of  all  artists  or  true  lovers  of 
nature  who  may  chance  to  wander  along  this  path. 

And  in  following  the  tiuy  canal  we  soon  skirt  a  piue- 
wood,  but  with  the  trees  still  young  and  thinly  planted, 
but  some  of  which,  nevertheless,  are  very  graceful  in 
form.  Then  at  the  turn  of  the  road  we  see  the  village 
of  Sasso,  perched  on  the  height  above,  Jind  standing  out 
boldly  and  picturesquely  in  the  midst  of  the  green  woods 
which  surround  it.  After  a  short  half-hour's  walk,  we 
at  length  arrive  at  a  large  aqueduct  wliieh  cros.sus  tlie 
torrent,  the  single  arch  of  wliieli  is  perfectly  graceful. 
We  may,  if  we  clioose,  continue  to  follow  the  smaller 
aqueduct,  and  clamber  for  some  little  distance  along  the 
bed  of  the  torrent ;  but  tliere  are  indeed  such  a  number  of 
interesting  features  in  this  excursion,  it  is  almost  better  for 
us  to  retrace  our  steps  and  return  by  the  torrent  itself. 

To  carry  this  idea  into  practice  we  will  take  the  little 
path  which  turns  off  at  the  end  of  the  aqueduct,  and 
which  leads  directly  to  the  bed  of  the  torrent.  I  will  add, 
in  parenthesis,  that  this  path  might  be  somewhat  less 
steep  and  more  convenient,  especially  towards  the  lower 
portion.  It  does  not,  however,  need  anytliing  but  a  few 
strokes  from  a  pickaxe,  and  I  will  undertake  to  say  that 
at  the  cost  of  a  few  francs  it  might  be  made  far  more 
pleasant  for  walking  than  at  present.  However,  we  must 
not  let  this  deter  us. 

The  descent  is  very  short,  and  we  arrive  before  long 
beneath  a  large  arch.  It  is  a  good  plan  at  this  point  to 
remount  again  some  dozen  yards  or  so  and  view  the  valley 
through  this  picturesque  arch,  which  forms  a  natural  and 
cliarming  frame.     This  done,  we  will  return  again  to  the 


THE   SASSO   TOREENT. 


353 


bed  of  the  torrent,  gathering  now  here,  now  there,  some 
of  the  many-coloured  anemones  which  flourish  even 
amongst  the  stones,  and,  passing  sometimes  along  a  track 
which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  distinguish,  sometimes 
climbing  across  the  stones  which  the  winter  floods  bring 
down  with  them,  we  shall  have  no  difficulty  in  following 
its  course.  This  path  has,  you  may  notice,  to  the  left  a 
graceful  little  spring,  which  trickles  in  the  midst  of 
maiden-hair  ferns,  and  by  enormous  barren  rocks,  and  by 
the  brilliant  oleanders  which  are  scattered  about  on  every 
side.  There  were  but  a  year  or  so  back  some  even  more 
beautiful  than  those  around  us,  but  those,  alas!  have 
been  cut  down.  However,  those  left  will  before  long 
throw  out  new  shoots,  and  the  ravages  we  have  noticed 
will  be  effaced. 

I  have  no  desire  to  describe  all  the  beauties,  charming 
as  they  are,  which  this  delightful  walk  presents  to  us,  but 
will  only  say.  Look  continually  before  you,  look  fre- 
quently behind,  and  at  every  step  you  take,  fresh  subjects 
for  your  sketch-book  will  arise  before  your  eyes. 

Then,  when  we  have  arrived  at  a  sort  of  dam  which  cuts 
the  torrent  bed  in  half,  from  which  the  water  is  directed 
to  a  little  watercourse  which  follows  the  left  bank  of  the 
torrent,  we  must  descend  by  a  little  smooth,  shelving 
slope  to  the  right  of  the  before-mentioned  barrier,  and 
continue  along  the  torrent's  bed  for  about  another 
200  feet. 

Here  we  shall  find  on  our  right  hand  the  broken  wall 
supporting  the  water-course,  and  must  climb  some  ten  or 
a  dozen  roughly-cut  steps,  in  order  that  we  may  follow  to 
our  right  the  most  tempting  little  path  which  passes  under 
the  shade  of  a  clump  of  palm-trees.     Here  they  are  even 

♦  2  a 


i 


oOa 


AKTISTIC   FEATURES. 


There  is  also  the  wood  below,  with  its  liarmonious  tones, 
with  its  graceful  and  varied  foliage ;  these  alone  are  suffi- 
cient to  arrest  the  footsteps  of  all  artists  or  true  lovers  of 
nature  who  may  chance  to  wander  along  this  path. 

And  in  following  the  tiny  canal  we  soon  skirt  a  pine- 
wood,  but  with  the  trees  still  young  and  thinly  planted, 
but  some  of  which,  nevertheless,  are  very  graceful  in 
form.  Then  at  the  turn  of  the  road  we  see  the  village 
of  Sasso,  perched  on  the  height  above,  and  standing  out 
boldly  and  picturesquely  in  the  midst  of  the  green  woods 
which  surround  it.  After  a  short  half-hour's  walk,  we 
at  lengtli  arrive  at  a  large  aquetluet  which  crosses  the 
torrent,  the  single  arch  of  whieli  is  perfrctly  graceful. 
We  mav,  if  we  choose,  continue  to  follow  the  smaHcr 
aqueduct,  and  clamber  for  some  little  distance  along  the 
bed  of  the  torrent ;  but  there  are  indeed  such  a  number  of 
interesting  features  in  this  excursion,  it  is  almost  better  for 
us  to  retrace  our  steps  and  return  by  the  torrent  itself. 

To  carry  this  idea  into  practice  we  will  take  the  little 
path  which  turns  off  at  the  end  of  the  aqueduct,  and 
which  leads  directly  to  the  bed  of  the  torrent.  I  will  add, 
in  parenthesis,  that  this  path  might  be  somewhat  less 
steep  and  more  convenient,  especially  towards  the  lower 
portion.  It  does  not,  however,  need  anything  but  a  few 
strokes  from  a  pickaxe,  and  I  will  undertake  to  say  that 
at  the  cost  of  a  few  francs  it  might  be  made  far  more 
pleasant  for  walking  than  at  present.  However,  we  must 
not  let  this  deter  us. 

The  descent  is  very  short,  and  we  arrive  before  long 
beneath  a  large  arch.  It  is  a  good  plan  at  this  point  to 
remount  again  some  dozen  yards  or  so  and  view  the  valley 
through  this  picturesque  arch,  which  forms  a  natural  and 
charming  frame.     This  done,  we  will  return  again  to  the 


THE   SASSO   TOREENT. 


353 


bed  of  the  torrent,  gathering  now  here,  now  there,  some 
of  the  many-coloured  anemones  which  flourish  even 
amongst  tlie  stones,  and,  passing  sometimes  along  a  track 
which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  distinguish,  sometimes 
climbing  across  the  stones  wliich  the  winter  floods  bring 
down  with  them,  we  shall  have  no  difficulty  in  following 
its  course.  This  path  has,  you  may  notice,  to  the  left  a 
graceful  little  spring,  which  trickles  in  the  midst  of 
maiden-hair  ferns,  and  by  enormous  barren  rocks,  and  by 
the  brilliant  oleanders  which  are  scattered  about  on  every 
side.  There  were  but  a  year  or  so  back  some  even  more 
beautiful  than  those  around  us,  but  those,  alas!  have 
been  cut  down.  However,  those  left  will  before  long 
throw  out  new  shoots,  and  the  ravages  we  have  noticed 
will  be  effiiced. 

I  have  no  desire  to  describe  all  the  beauties,  charming 
as  they  are,  which  this  delightful  walk  presents  to  us,  but 
will  only  say.  Look  continually  before  you,  look  fre- 
quently behind,  and  at  every  step  you  take,  fresh  subjects 
for  your  sketch-book  will  arise  before  your  eyes. 

Then,  when  we  have  arrived  at  a  sort  of  dam  which  cuts 
the  torrent  bed  in  half,  from  which  the  water  is  directed 
to  a  little  watercourse  which  follows  the  left  bank  of  the 
torrent,  we  must  descend  by  a  little  smooth,  shelving 
slope  to  the  right  of  the  before-mentioned  barrier,  and 
continue    along    the    torrent's    bed  for    about  another 

200  feet. 

Here  we  shall  find  on  our  right  hand  the  broken  wall 
supporting  the  water-course,  and  must  climb  some  ten  or 
a  dozen  roughly-cut  steps,  in  order  that  we  may  follow  to 
our  right  the  most  tempting  little  path  which  passes  under 
the  shade  of  a  clump  of  palm-trees.     Here  they  are  even 

*  2  a 


354 


ARTISTIC  FEATURES. 


more  beautiful  than  before,  and  are  planted  apparently  to 
present  the  appearance  of  magnificent  bouquets  or  macchie 
of  the  most  exquisite  outline. 

Still  following  this  winding  path,  with  the  soft  murmur 
of  the  stream  which  flows  at  its  side  as  an  accompaniment, 
we  shall  before  long  arrive  at  a  sort  of  little  aqueduct. 
We  must  stop  here,  for  we  shall  find  below  a  ravine,  which, 
though  not  of  any  great  size,  is  nevertheless  simply  foiry- 
like  in  its  beauty.     Are  there  not  here  the  golden  apples 
and  the  palm  trees  ?    Are  there  not  the  garlands  of  wild 
briars  and  clumps  of  laurels  ?    It  is  indeed  a  marvel  of 
beauty,  and  if  a  painter  would  find  it  difficult  to  reproduce 
a  subject  so  complicated  in  all  its  details,  there  will  always 
be  for  him  at  the  worst  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  how  well 
nature  knows  how  to  combine  her  subjects  and  to  vary  her 
charms. 

But  we  must  move  forward  again,  and  still  in  the  same 
track,  and  soon  shall  come  across  in  our  path  the  stump  of 
a  palm  tree  jutting  out  from  the  wall :  it  is  all  that 
remains  of  a  remarkably  curious  tree  which  has  been  cut 
down  by  the  owner  of  the  land  surrounding,  because  it 
proved  inconvenient  to  him  in  his  w  ork ! 

This  is,  however,  only  what  one  might  expect,  for  the 
peasant  all  the  world  over  has  ever  been  found  without 
artistic  sympathies  of  any  kind ;  aud  I  cannot  help  feeling 
regret  as  I  think  of  the  leaves  once  hanging  above  in  an 
undulating  cluster,  and  the  tree  raising  herself  gracefully 
to  spread  out  her  proud  tufts !  But  we  must  pass  on 
until  we  come  upon  a  large  reservoir ;  here  we  must  take 
the  path  which  descends,  and  which  is  formed  by  a  series 
of  steps  cut  in  the  rock :  then  at  the  bottom  of  these  steps 
cross  to  the  left,  and  pass  behind  some  new  palm  planta- 


THE  SASSO  TORRENT. 


355 


tions ;  and  after  taking  a  few  steps,  turn  round,  and  you 
will  have  before  your  eyes  a  picture  which  will  fairly  cap- 
tivate you  with  its  harmonious  composition,  colour,  and 
character :  a  little  house  close  to  a  broken-down  terrace, 
a  staircase  built  on  an  arch  of  bricks,  whilst  a  palm  tree 
laden  with  dates  towers  beside  them.  In  front,  forming 
the  foreground,  a  grand  clump  of  palm-trees  of  noble  shape, 
which  of  itself  forms  a  perfect  frame  to  the  cottage ; 
below  us  the  valley  which  presents  the  whole  of  its  left 
bank  to  our  view,  and  at  the  bottom  of  everything  the  bed 
of  the  torrent,  wild  and  stony  and  desolate.  It  is,  indeed, 
a  magnificent  scene.  It  is  Palestine  brought  back  to  us, 
and  we  might  cliristen  it,  not  the  Torrent  of  Sasso,  but 
the  Valleij  of  Kedron,  and  full  w^orthy  is  it  of  its  sacred 
name.  But  whether  we  call  it  the  one  or  the  other,  it  is 
a  very  lovely  valley  from  the  painter's  point  of  view,  and 
that,  after  all,  is  the  principal  one. 


We  cannot  now  do  better  than  return  to  Bordighera  by 
skirting  the  cemetery,  whicli,  to  tell  the  truth,  is  somewhat 
out  of  harmony  w^ith  the  wild  and  characteristic  aspect  of 
nature  whicli  surrounds  it. 

The  Memorial  Chapel  of  the  Moreno  family  is  a  monu- 
ment of  true  artistic  merit,  but  it  is  at  present  too  fresh 
and  bright  in  tone,  and  draws  our  attention  too  forcibly 
to  its  markedly  Gothic  character :  but  in  the  course  of 
time  the  stone  of  which  it  is  built  will  be  considerably 
modified  in  tone,  and  have  a  somewhat  less  glaring  ap- 
pearance, and  it  may  perhaps  be  set  down  as  a  bastard 
specimen  of  the  architecture  of  the  Crusaders  of  old 
in  Palestine.  It  will  then  be  somewhat  more  in  har- 
mony with  its  surroundings ;  besides,  it  is  necessary  that 

2  A  2 


-it 

i 


ARTISTIC   FEATURES. 

we  skould  think  of  tlie  visitors  and  endeavour  as  hf 
as  possible  to  hide  this  restiB-phice  irom  their  view,  or 
at  least  make  it  as  beautiful  as  possible.  And  to  do  so 
most  effectually  it  will  be  necessary  to  plant  a  mimber  of 
eyprus  trees,  which  will  only  allow  a  lew  white  stones  to  be 
seen  tlirongli  their  tall  and  shndtr  forms,  or  a  simple 
cross,  and  perchance  one  or  two  ornaments  upon  the 
pyrainid  of  the  chapel  referred  to. 

"  This  done,  the  cemetery  will  luive  an  appearance  f\ir 
more  subdued  and  reverent  in  character,  and  be  in  a  similar 
k.^y  to  its  settiii-s,  whilst  the  mass  of  deep-green  foliage 
will  not  only  conceal  it  under  its  dark  wing,  but  vmH  har- 
monise with  the  savntro  grandeur  of  the  Valley  ol 
Ivedron. 


VIII. 
The  ToiiKENT  of  ('Kriusi  s. 

I  am  ignorant  of  the  name  of  this  torrent;  no  duubt  I 
could  discover  it  if  I  desired  to  do  so,  but  I  inilnitcdy 
preft^r  tliat  wliieh  I  have  given  as  a  recollection  of  tlie 
spriii-^  of  Cepldsia,  ef  tlie  iorni  and  character  of  which  it 
greatly  reminds  m.'.  Let  us  put  it  down  then  as  the 
Cei^iims,  whieh  llous  through  Bordigheia,  Jind  allow  me 

to  conduct  you  to  it. 

When  you  have  passed  the  torrent  of  Sasso  on  the 
Cornice  Koad,  a  little  before  you  arrive  at  the  quarry, 
where  is  excavated  the  stone  from  Monte  Nero,  there  is  a 
tiny  cottage  built  of  rubble,  upon  the  right  side  of  a  httle 
spring.  Follow  this  spring  which  juts  out  at  the  moun- 
tain s  foot.    This  is  the  way  to  Ce2)hisus. 


THE  TORRENT  OF  CEPHISUS. 


357 


We  begin  to  mount  almost  immediately  at  this  point; 
but  before  starting  off  take  notice,  in  a  path  somewhat 
broader  than  that  you  are  following,  of  an  immense  palm- 
tree  wliich  there  rears  itself,  its  head  slightly  bending. 
You  will  find  in  this  new  road  a  beautiful  view,  and  should 
you  chance  to  have  your  sketch-book  with  you,  you  will 
most  certainly  feel  tempted  to  stop  and  sketch  it.    Whilst 
in  this  path,  continue  to  follow  it  until  you  arrive  at  the 
torrent:   there  you  will  see  a  ruined  house,  which  has 
nothing  remarkable  so  far  as  its  exterior  is  concerned ; 
but  cross  the  torrent  on  the  stepping-stones  and  enter 
into  this  tumble-down  building,  and  if  you  have,  even  in 
the  smallest  degree,  the  artistic  faculty,  I  promise  you  a 
grand  treat  as  you  penetrate  this  weather-stained  ruin. 
It  must  once,  I  think,  have  been  an  oil  mill,  but  for  many 
years  abandoned ;  some  old  vats  to  the  left,  at  the  bottom 
a  wheel  with  wooden  cogs,  empty  holes  here  and  there, 
nothing  very  particular  in  the  arrangement,  but  things 
which,  though    essentially   common   in    themselves,   by 
studying  their  composition,  by  following  the  light  which 
comes  in  at  the  door,  in  fact,  by  taking  in  the  decay 
into  which  everything  has  fallen,  will  be  found  to  possess 
a  marvellous  wildness  and  savageness,  almost  incredible. 

It  is  here,  as  before,  that  the  historic  scenes  of  the  Bible 
are  again  presented  to  us ;  sometimes  under  one  aspect, 
sometimes  under  another. 

This  is  the  history  of  Samson;  for  it  is  not  difficult 
to  imagine  that  here,  in  this  retired  little  nook,  he 
toiled  at  the  millstone.  And  truly  a  painter  of  genre 
—  we  might  even  add,  an  historical  painter  —  could 
hardly  find  a  better  bit  of  scenery  to  form  a  back- 
ground  to    some   such   composition,    than    this  sombre 


58 


ARTISTIC    FEATURES. 


dungeon  affords.  Decamp  himself,  if  he  had  known  it, 
wonld  without  doubt  have  employed  it  in  the  grand 
pages  of  liis  liistory  of  that  great  patriot.  It  is  pos- 
sible, that  to  be  especially  affected  by  the  charms  of  this 
original  spot,  one's  mind  should  be  cast  in  a  peculiar 
mould,  and  all  my  readers  perhaps  may  not  be  able  to 
feel  exactly  as  I  do  about  it.  However,  whether  or  not, 
make  a  point  of  visiting  this  ancient  mill ;  that  will  be  a 
good  criterion,  for  if  you  are  of  my  opinion,  you  will  be 
one  of  tlie  privileged  ones  of  the  world :  since  it  will  prove 
you  to  be  endowed  with   imagination   and   the  artistic 

faculty. 

This  having  been  accomplished,  return  a  little  on  your 
path  and  clamber   up  a  short   slope;   this  will  quickly 
enable  you  to  regain  the  first  path  of  which  I  spoke. 
Follow  this  then  as  it  passes  across  a  rock,  which  is  partly 
buried  in  tlie  ground ;  and  sometimes  ascending,  some- 
times descending,  you  will  arrive  exactly  opposite  a  tiny, 
a  remarkably  tiny,  house— a  sort  of  doll's  house  indeed, 
which  stands  on  the  extreme  edge  of  the  torrent's  bank.    I 
infer  that  you  will  see  this  quaint  cottage  a  little  below 
you ;  if  you  do  not  find  the  path  conducts  you  exactly 
opposite,  descend,  as  well  as  you  can,  tlie  terraces  which 
separate  you,  and  you  will  have  reached  the  bed  of  the 
Cephisus.     By  this  tiny  cottage,  both  to  the  right  and 
left,  we  at  once  notice  two  lovely  subjects  for  landscape 
painters,  quite  Greek  in  feeling,  and  which  will  them- 
selves alone  repay  you  for  your  search  for  them.     But 
mount  the  torrent  again,  some  twenty  steps  or  so,  if  you 
will  not   mind   doing  so;   that   will  give   you    another 
aspect  of  the  same  subjects,  for  seen  either  from  before 
or  behind  they  are  equally  striking.     Then  direct  your 


THE  TORRENT  OF  CEPHISUS. 


359 


steps  until  below  you,  and  somewhat  to  the  right,  is 
a  little  bridge ;  pass  over  it  for  a  few  yards ;  there  again 
are  lovely  and  suggestive  subjects  composed  ready  for 

your  brush. 

I  have  not  attempted  to  describe  the  various  details 
which  make  up  these  pictures.  I  can  but  say  this  to  you  : 
tluit  CepMsus  and  Eurotas,  in  spite  of  their  peculiar  beauty, 
are  not  equal  to  tlie  Cephisus  of  Bordighera,  which,  in- 
dependently of  the  shape  of  the  rocks  which  surround 
it,  of  the  oleanders  which  are  scattered  everywhere,  and 
of  the  glorious  peep  of  the  blue  Mediterranean,  has 
beyond  these  the  most  magnificent  palm  trees,  artistically 
planted,  of  grand  size,  and  which  gives  to  the  whole  an 
effect  which  is  perfectly  Greek.* 

In  truth,  I  can  only  say,  '^  This  little  corner  is  Greece, 
but  Greece  with  all  the  beauties  of  the  East  added  to  it ; 
and  I  can  assure  you  that  it  is  an  act  of  great  unselfish- 
ness  on  my  part  to  make  such  a  spot  known  to  you,  for  at 
the  present  moment  it  seems  to  me  as  if  it  was  a  private 
possession  of  my  own.  As  the  most  profound  solitude 
alwavs  reigns  there,  I  will  risk  doing  so;  and  the  silence 
so  adds  to  the  charm  of  the  place,  that  I  am  unable 
entirely  to  free  myself  from  it. 

Perhaps  now  that  I  have  made  known  my  treasure 
to  the  whole  world,  and  made  common  that  which 
has  hitherto  been  sacred  to  me— perhaps  I  shall  never 
be  tempted  again  to  visit  it,  for  it  can  never  have 
the  same  attraction  as  when  it  was  my  own.  At  least, 
I  have  honestly  fulfilled  my  duty  as  Cicero7ie,  and  I 
shall  have  to  be   recompensed  by  the  hope  that  those 

»  It  is  curious  that  Mr.  Pater  takes  a  similar  view  of  the  character  of  this 
part  of  the  coast  in  his  charming  book,  Sketches  in  Italy  and  Greece.-^A,  C.  D 


360 


ARTISTIC   FEATURES. 


who  on  ray  recommendation  have  paid  my  Cephisus  a 
visit  may  find  that  my  imagination  is  not  so  great 
as  the  reality,  and  that  they  will  not  merely  content 
themselves  with  a  glance  at  it.  This  is,  indeed, 
my  earnest  hope  each  time  that  I  visit  my  beloved 
torrent.  But  alas !  even  since  I  have  written  tliese  lines, 
already  a  change  has  come  over  it,  for  here  and  there 
portions  of  it  have  been  embanked  with  stone  walls,  and 
something  of  its  picturesque  character  has  passed  away. 
Lose  no  time  then  in  visiting  it;  in  a  few  years  more 
perhaps  there  will  be  no  need  to  give  it  a  page  in  a 
guide-book ! 

The  Well  of  La  Kuota. 

Let  us  now,  for  tids  our  last  ramble,  turn  along  the 
Cornice  Koad,  and  follow  it  as  far  as  the  little  chapel 
of  La  Euota.  Facing  the  latter  is  a  long  path  leading  to 
the  edge  of  the  sea.  We  will  descend  it,  and,  when 
arrived  at  the  bottom,  direct  our  steps  towards  the  clump 
of  palms  which  we  see  upon  our  right. 

These  have  been  originally  planted  in  two  irregular  lines ; 
between  is  an  old  cistern,  an  old  well,  now  full  of  stones, 
and  some  yards  in  front,  a  large,  flat,  broad  rock,  which  has 
the  appearance  of  reposing  on  the  ground  ;  further  down 
some  undulating  ground  covered  with  broom,  heath,  rock, 
and  brambles,  all  burnt  up  by  the  sun,  and  beyond  as  a 
boundary  line,  giving  a  finish  to  the  picture,  the  deep 
blue  of  the  Mediterranean,  glorious  in  the  sunshine. 
Here  then  is  a  place  to  visit,  for  all  my  readers  who  are 
painters  or  lovers   of  nature ;  here,  0  poets,   is  a  spot 


the  well  of  la  ruota. 


361 


to  delight  your  hearts,  a  corner  of  "beauty,  to  be  a  joy 
for  ever,"  where  those  should  come  who  seek  a  fresh  and 
keen,  yet  pure  sensation,  and  who  know  that  for  them  at 
least  nature  has  the  power  of  making  their  hearts  beat 
faster ! 

1  have  before  spoken  of  the  oriental  character  of 
Bordighera,  and  certainly  nowhere  is  this  characteristic 
more  strongly  marked  than  in  those  spots  which,  under 
my  charge,  you  have  lately  visited ;  but  I  vow  nevertheless, 
that  if  continued  reminiscences  of  the  East  are  presented  to 
us,  as  we  pa-^s  through  the  old  town  and  its  surroundings, 
such  is  no  longer  the  case  here :  for  now  it  is  not  a  remi- 
niscence which  is  brought  to  our  minds,  but  the  reality 
whicli  is  set  before  our  eyes;  here  it  is  Palestine  itself 
with  all  its  associations  that  is  conjured  up  before  us. 
Nay,  it  is  more  than  this :  it  is  not  the  Palestine  of 
to-day,  but  the  ideal  Palestine  we  so  like  to  dream 
of.  This  is  the  fountain  where  sat  the  Samaritan  woman, 
where  Kebecca  met  Isaac;*  there  are  the  Jews,  there 
are  the  apostles,  there  is  Jerusalem !  Nazareth  and 
Bethlehem  reappear  once  more  in  the  simple  nook  of 
the  little  Bordighera  promontory,  and  yet,  almost  while 
we  look  upon  it,  the  scene  is  changing:  the  plough 
during  the  past  year  has  already  passed  over  the  soil ! 
Who  can  tell  what  the  future  has  in  store  for  this  ancient 
deserted  cistern  and  these  partially  uprooted  palm-trees? 
Surely  it  would  not  cost  a  large  sum  to  save  it  ?  Why 
cannot  the  town  of  Bordighera  purchase  the  site  and  save 
from  impending  ruin  this  spot,  as  unique  as  it  is  in- 
teresting ?     If  the  town  is  too  poor,  then  let  a  subscription 

*  The  English  residents  at  Bordighera  have  given  to  this  spot  the  pretty 
and  expressive  name  of  "  Hcbccca's  well" — A.  C.  D. 


362 


ARTISTIC   FEATURES. 


be  made.  Should  this  not  prove  sufficient  to  cover  it,  let 
some  of  the  rich  proprietors  of  the  place  devote  some 
of  their  gold  to  save  from  destruction  this  corner,  so  sug- 
gestive of  both  the  Old  and  New  Testament ;  and  finally, 
if  none  care  to  give  themselves  the  pleasure,  which  the 
doing  of  such  an  artistic  and  noble  act,  and  done  for  the 
benefit  of  all,  would  result  in,— well,  hand  over  this  portion 
of  the  shore  to  me,  and  I  will  promise  that  it  shall  never 
be  mutilated  or  given  up  to  speculation. 


THE    END. 


LOXDON:   PEIOTED  by   WILLIAM   CLOWKS  and  SON8,   LIMITED.  8TAMFOKU  MKEET 

AKD  CIIAUISG  CROSS. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


AN6L0-LIGURIAN   BANK, 

FEED.  F.  HAMILTON  &  CO.. 
BORDIGHERA, 


IT-A.I. 


CHEQUES  CASHED,  MONEY  EXCHANGED, 


EEMITTANOES  TOE  ALL   COUNTEIES. 


FIRE    AND    LIFE    INSURANCES. 


ITALIAN   WINES    SUPPLIED. 


Luggage  Warehoused  during  the  Summer. 


special  Tariffs  for  the  conveyance  of  Luggage  and  Parcels 
to  and  from  London  and  all  parts  of  the  icorld. 


GENERAL  AGENCY  FOR  THE  TRANSACTION  OF  BUSINESS. 


2 


ADVEKTISEMENT8. 


PIETRO   SAVIO, 

"STABILIMENTO    MECCANICO    INDUSTRIALE," 

28,  CORSO  ROMA, 

liinvitiire  Hanttfacturcr. 

CABPETS,   BLANKETS,    LINEN,    IRONMONGEKY, 

CHINA,  GLASS. 

:FUR]NITUI^Ei  MAI>E   TO   OllOEl^. 


This  old-establislied  and  well-known  House  undertakes  the 
complete  Furnislimg  and  Decoration  of  Public  and  Private  Esta- 
blishments of  every  description. 

EXTRACT  FROM  GENERAL  CATALOGUE. 


Iron  and  Woodb:n  Bedsteads. 
Iron  Fences  and  Roofing. 
Scales  ani'  ^MiivsniES. 
LooKrNoCJi'Ass  &  Picture  Frames, 

Gilt  and  Imitation  of  Wood. 
Glass    and    Crystal  Ware,    from 

France  and  Bohemia. 
Flate  Glass  and  Glazed  Tiles. 
Looking  Glasses. 

Porcelain  &  Earthenware  Syphons. 
Soda-Water  Apparatus. 
Plate  (Alpacca  and  Christofle). 

&c.,  &c 


Clocks  am»  Wat(  ties. 

Iron,  Tin,  am>  Zinc  Utensils. 

Stuffs  for  Fri;MrrnE 

W.M)L  and  Hair  fuu  Mattrasses. 

^VALL  Paper,  at  all  Prices. 

()ij:o(;i:Ai'inc    and    Lithographic 

PlCTIllES. 

Lamps,  Lustres,  «fec. 

Gas  Apparatis  (Fittings). 

French  Cement. 

Kitchen  Stoves. 

Heating  Apparatus  of  every  variety. 

,  &c. 


ILLUSTRATED   CATALOGUES   SENT    FREE   ON    APPLICATION. 

Extremely  moderate  Prices  and  prompt  execution  of  Orders,  together  with 
the  best  Materials,  are  the  points  upon  which  the  Firm  rely  to  secure  the 
patronage  of  the  EngUsh  Kesidents  in  Liguria  and  Northern  Italy. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


POMli  AND  MOSCA, 


(iLJr^ 


O 


f  *  S       ■/'-     11^)    rr 

BORDIGIIERA, 


IC, 


VIA  VITTORIO    EMMANUELE, 

and  at 


Large  assortment  of  Pianofortes  from  the  most 
renowned  Manufactories,  on  Sale  and  Hire. 


MUSICAL    LENDING    LIBRARY. 


THE  MOST  MODERATE  PRICES. 


MOMBELLI    &   BULGHERONh 

BUILDERS  &  CONTRACTORS 

For  VILLAS,   ROADS,  WELLS,  &c., 

BORDIGHERA  AND    NICE. 


The  above  Firm  having  executed  the  ^^^orks 
of  the  Observatory  and  new  Dock  at  Nice, 
the  Theatre  and  nevsr  Salon  at  Monte-Carlo, 
and  built  the  Villa  Bischoffsheim  (lately 
occupied  by  the  Queen  of  Italy),  that  of  M. 
Garnier  (Architect  of  the  new  Opera  House 
in  Paris),  and  others  at  Bordighera,  will  be 
happy  to  estimate  for  similar  Work  for 
the  English  Colony,  guaranteeing  first-rate 
v/orkmanship,  moderate  prices,  and  prompt 
execution. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


ADVEBTISEMENTS. 


f* 


MICHELE    IIUSSO, 
|llctrtl)ant  ^aUor> 

300  VARIETIES  01  CLOTHS,  TWEEDS,  &  OTHEE  MATERIALS. 

Orders  executed  with  the  greatest  Precision  and  Punctuality. 

SUITS  KtADE  IN  84  HOURS. 

UNIFOEMS,  LADIES'  CLOAKS,  RIDING  HABITS. 

BORDIGHEEA,  via  Vittorio  Emmaimele,  casa  Etienne. 

HOTEL    WINDSOR, 

Proprietor  —  N  EGRO-DAZIANO 

{Formerly  of  the  JTotel  de  la  Grande  Bretagne,  Mentone^ 

B  ORDIGHER  A. 

DolightMly  eitnatcd  near  Eailway  Station.     Fine  view  over  Sea 

and  Country.     Iliglily  recommended  to  Families  and  Single 

Travellers.     Every  Comfort  and  Attention. 

PUBLIC^ALON  AND  GARDEN. 


MICHELE  MICHIARDI, 

PUBVEYOE  to  H.M.  the  KING  of  ITALY,  and  to  H.B.H.  the  DUKE  of  AOSTA, 

ITALIAN    WAREHOUSE. 

CHEESES;    REAL   MILAN   BUTTER;    HAMS,    SAUSAGES,    AND 

FRESH  PORK. 

PRESERVES  OF  ALL  KINDS ;  OLIVE  AND  OTHER  OILS. 

MANUFACTURER  OF  TOMATO  SAUCE. 


VIA    CAVOUR,    SAN    REMO. 


WINE   MEllCHANT, 

18,  VICO  STELLA  (Piazza  Fontane  Morose),  aENOA. 

Italian,  Frencli,  Spanish,  and  otlier  Wines  in  Cask  and  Bottle, 

supplied  Wholesale  and  Retail. 
Vermuth,  Cognac,  Rum,  Kirschwasser,  and  English  and 

German  Ales. 

Special  Agent  in  Liguria  for  the  MARASCHINO  of  the  Firm 

of  Gerolamo  Luxardo  of  Zara. 


BOI^DIOKEEI^^A.. 


HOTEL    VICTORIA. 

CENTRAL,  OPPOSITE  THE  TELEGRAPH  OFFICE  AND  THE  ANGLO- 
LIGURIAN  BANK,  NEAR  TO  THE  STATION. 

The  Hotel,  newly  furnished,  is  replete  with  every  modern  comfort.  Excellent 
Cuisine.  Moderate  Prices.  Pension  from  8  to  10  francs  per  diem.  Table 
d'Hote  and  Restaurant  a  la  Carte. 

VERY  LARGE  GARDEN.   SHELTERED  PROMENADE. 

P.   BAUNI,   Proprietor. 

HOTEL   CONTINENTAL, 

BORDIGHERA 

(OnPElSTEID      ISSS). 

Full  South.    View  of  the  Sea.    English  Church  at  a  short  distance.     Modern 
Construction  and  Luxurious  Furniture.     Beds  with  Edredons. 

Moderate  Prices.    Pension  from  8  to  9  francs.     Excellent  Cooking. 

Heated  throughout  by  hot-air  apparatus. 

ANTONIO  IMPERIALE, 

BUILDER  AND   CONTRACTOR, 

BORDIGHERA. 


Builder  of  the  ENGLISH  CHUEOH  at  Bordighera,  and 
of  ALL  the  VILLAS  erected  by  English  Proprietors, 
viz.  '  Pozzoforte,'  'Bella  Vista,'  'Villa  CappeUa,'  'ViUetta 
Aurelia,'  *  Villa  Valentina,'  *  Casa  Bianca,'  '  Villa  Grazia,' 
*  Villetta  Francesca,'  *  Casa  Coraggio,'  '  Villa  Boscaccia,' 
'  Villa  Giorgio,'  &c.,  &c. 

\/i//as  Constructed  at  Fixed  Prices  by  Estimate,  including, 
if  required,   the  Purcliase  of  Land. 


I  I 


6 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


RAFFAELE    MURAGLIA, 

PURVEYOR  TO  H.R.H.  THE  DUCHESS  OF  GENOA. 

CHEESE;   POULTRY;   HAMS  AND  SAUSAGES;    BISCUITS; 

MILAN  BUTTER. 
GLASS  AND  CHINA.    MINERAL  AND  OLIVE  OILS. 

BORDIGHERA,   VIA  VITTORIO   EMMANUELE 

(OPl-OSITE  K)Sr  OFFICE).  


HOTEL  PENSION  MEYLAN, 

fill  flTTOffi;  "^IMMlPfiliS 

(Entrance  also  by  the  PIAZZALE  DELLA  STAZIONE), 

BORDIGHERA. 

IPAMILY    I?ICMSI()]Sr    BY    i;?^EEK    OR    MONTH. 

RESTAURANT    A     LA    CARTE. 

DINNERS   AND   SINGLE  DISHES   SENT   OUT. 


HOTEL    BELVEDERE, 

STEADA  EOMANA, 

lO  ^3 IR  ID  I  GrItI  £i . 


Tliis  splendid  Hotel  is  situated  about  oneliundrcd  feet  above  tbo 
level  of  the  sea,  in  a  fine  situation,  commaiKling  a  grand  view  over 
coast  and  mountains.     Largo  garden.     i?bower  and  other  Baths. 

Conducted  on  English  principles  by  English  Proprietress. 

MODERATE  PRICES. 


LOMBARD!,    PROPRIETOR. 


W.    ESSARCO, 

EORDTrTTTEllA, 

Opposite  the  Railway  Station. 


ENGLISH  GROCERIES,  TEAS,  COFFEES,  WINES,  ETC. 

Circulatiiifl  Uifirari)  %V  UraUing  Uoom- 

APARTMENTS    AND  VILLAS  LET. 

KEGISTRY  OrriOE  FOE  SERVANTS.    GENERAL  AGENOY. 


ADVERTISEMENTS. 


GIUSEPPE   ROSSI, 

WINES    AND    LIQUOKS 

OF  ALL  BRANDS,   ITALIAN,   FRENCH,  AND  SPANISH. 


ORDINARY  TABLE  WINES  of  Good  Quahty  and  at  Low  Prices. 
DAILY  ARRIVALS  OF  FISH,   LOBSTERS,  AND  GAME, 

DURING  THE  WINIER  SEASON. 


VIA  VITTORIO  EMMANUELE  (TaZeterT^^  BORDIGHERA. 

DEGRO881  &  MA88IERA, 

VENTIMIGLIA,  ITALY, 

Agents  for  the  OHEMINS  DE  FER  DE  L'OUEST  of  Erauce,  and 

for  the  Loudon,  Brighton,  and  South  Coast,  and 

Great  Western  Railways. 

ItltANCn  OFFICES  at  PORTO  MAURIZIO,  SAN  REMO,  BORDI- 
(UlERA  (Li(JUUiA),  MENTONE,  NICE,  CANNES  (Alpes  Maritimes), 
ALA  (Tyuol),  and  UDINE-CORMONS  (Austrian  Frontier). 


INTERNATIONAL    CUSTOM-HOUSE    AGENCY. 

MERCHANDISE   FORWARDED  TO  ALL   COUNTRIES  AT  FIXED   RATES. 

Bills  Collected.     Money  Exchanged. 
LUGGAGE  WAREHOUSED, 


FURNITURE    REMOVED    WITH    THE    UTMOST    CARE. 


MAPS  &  BOOKS  FOR  TOURISTS, 

STANFORD'S  TOURISTS'  CATALOGUE, 

Now  Edition,  Revised  and  Enlarged  to  56  pages,  with  Index  Maps 
to  the  One-inch  Ordnance  Survey  of  England,  and  to  the  Govern- 
ment Maps  of  France  and  Switzerland,  contains  full  information  of 
the  Best  Maps  and  Guides  now  obtainable,   and   suited  to  the 

British  or  Continental  Traveller. 

Post  Free  to  any  part  of  the  British  Isles  for  Penny  Stamp. 
London :  EDWARD  STANFORDrSS,  CHARING  CROSS,  S.W. 

2   B 


8' 


ADVEirnSEMENTB. 


GUIDE     BOOKS 


ALPS   (THE).      THE    UPPER   ENGADINE. 


ALPS   (THE).     DAVOS -PLATZ.     Guide  to 

Winter.  BvOne  Who  Knows  it  Wlu..  WUIiMhi..  l.'coi..>v..,cl(.tli,28.o,J 


lutendeJ 

roau  tuck,  3e.  Od. 

BIARRITZ  AND  THE  BASQUE  COUNTRIES. 

By  Coimt  Henhy  IUs.-.ell,  Member  uf  the  Alpine  Club,  &c.     With  a 
Map.     Crown  8vo,  cloth,  ik. 

MADEIRA;  ITS  SCENERY,  AND  HOW  TO 

With  a  new  Map  of  Madeira  im.l  flu..  ■ ..  !•  ..ud.al.   Crown  8vo,  clotb,  7..  Oc(. 

NICE  AND  ITS  CLIMATE.     By  Dr.  Barety. 

ri^        1*1    ,„;♦>>    Aa.litioiia    bv  Chaiu.i  >  V.  M.D-,  Fellow  and  late 

TraiisilattHl,  with   Aaailioiis,  uy   kjuaiua  i'  ,,,inr.      With  an 

Senior  Censor  of  the  K-nMl  College  ot   l>hy«u-iuu.  ot   ^'^"^  «";     Yu  S 
Appendix  un  the  Vegetation  of  the  Kiviera,  by  Profe«8or  Allman,  1^  .U.b., 
&c.     Two  Mapd.     Foijt  8vo,  cloth,  4».  Gd 

SAN  RIIMO.     Visitor's  Guide  to  San  Eemo. 

By  John  Congkeve,  Pro-Consul  at  Sun  Eemo.       With  Maps.      Small 
post  8vo,  cloth,  3«. 

EUROPE.    APPLETON^S  EUROPEAN  GUDE- 

BOOK  FOK  EN(;LISH-SFEAK1NG  travellers  Including 
En-Vla^Kl  Scotland,  Ir,  land,  France,  Belgium,  H.dland,  Switzerland, 
Gen  u  v^  Italy,  Spain,  Portugal,  Russia,  Denmark  Norway,  Sweden, 
Gre^K'Tpt,  Algeria,  aud  Uie  Holy  Land:  t;>  whicli  is  appended  a 
vSkJ^;^  Travel-Talk,  in  English,  German,  ^^^-^J^"^^^;.;;; 
Hotel  Liht  and  Si)€cialitieB  of  European  Cities.  hmeteenth  Mibon. 
Gt^^le^y  Revised  and  Corrected.  With  Illustrations  and  Maps,  i  wo 
vols.    Post  8vo,  French  morocco,  gilt  edges,  -2Us. 

LONDON-,    EDWABD   STANFORD,  55,  OHAKING   GROSS,  S.W. 


945B64 

ijiamillbn 
T5orcii§heva 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 


K. 


0021 


140073 


